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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/27/2017 in all areas

  1. So, I finally solved my problem after a week of researching and reading I must have read 100+ threads about Hesitation, Timing, Sputtering, Hard Starting, Plug Gap and so on and so forth, so I figured I would add my experience to maybe help someone out in the future. My issue began after I had blown a head gasket and replaced it. After I got it started it was running like crap, like you know when you spent all night out drinking keg beer and eating junk, Yeah that kind of CRAP! It was hard to start, and sounded like the timing was retarded and the starter could barely turn it over. When it would run, I could stand there and it would idle smooth I could blip the throttle and it would respond beautifully. But on the road it would run hot and would jump and buck and sputter starting out and going up hills or under any load at all. On the flats it felt like I was towing something with it. So at first I figured it had to be related to the head gasket problems, long story short it wasn't. I messed with the timing and it would get somewhat better when advanced but still wasn't good. After a week of trial and error I went through all of those threads and made a checklist and hit it hard. The following are things I read and did to try to solve the problem not necessarily in that order. Static timed, Timed with light, Timed with vacuum gauge, Road timed it, Cleaned the distributor, Replaced the tiny ground wire in the distributor, Checked the cap, Checked the rotor, Checked the wires, Re crimped the wire leads, Checked everywhere possible for vacuum leaks, Re torqued the plugs, Tightened every screw bolt and stud from the top of the carb to the block, Dumped Seafoam down the carb and let it sit over night, Cleaned the fuel filters, Unhooked my electric pump when the car was running allowing the mechanical to do all the work (my electric runs a 2.5-3 lbs. and seems to do pretty good at assisting the mechanical) Checked for black smoke, Smelled for gas in the oil, Watched the oil fill tube for steam or smoke, Broke the nose cone of the starter and replaced it with a spare, Pulled the plugs and they were all black and sooty, very sooty. So I opened up the carb and looked at the valve that is supposed to be pulled down by vacuum, I pushed very lightly and it was stuck in the up position so I pushed just a bit harder and heard it click as it dislodged and slid down, I exercised it a little, cleaned out the fuel bowl, just a little fine powdery dirt in the bottom, then made sure my float was adjusted right. Static timed it started it up and ran down the road and it ran like a dream. So all of that just to find out that little valve jet was stuck in the up position and dumping extra fuel into the motor. It was a lot of good reading and I appreciate all of you fellas for posting your previous problems. So here is my post I hope it helps someone some day. Edit: I forgot to mention I also checked and tested the vacuum advance and it was good.
    6 points
  2. I'm like Mortimer, rather do it myself. For me the learning process supersedes the results, if I can fix it so it is a safe vehicle to drive, I've won. The manual, internet, and this forum have been my resources along with a lot of mistakes. Sometimes it's very artistic like today, pics of a head gasket and head.
    4 points
  3. Now that it's been a few years, I think I need to post some updates to the project. There were issues with this and that (who knew), and will document how I got them straightened out....problem is remembering everything right. Earlier in this thread I told how the stock 11" clutch disk was hitting the flywheel bolt ends. Well, the Mustang disk interfered too. But this time it was on the other side. The forks interfered with the springs, and I can't remember if it was when engaged or disengaged. So, I called up Randall Grisham at Tennessee Clutch and told him my problem, and he immediately knew what I was talking about, said they had a smaller spring version of the same disk. It was that easy. Pictured below is the "thick" mustang disk installed w/o pressure plate - checking for bolt interference. Next, the "thin" disc with blue springs on the left, and the thicker disk on the right. The springs just kissed the forks, but no damage was done. Last two pics are looking at the hub area where spring dia. can be compared. I have the four-fork (11") clutch. I am not sure if this would have been a problem with the 10" three-fork clutch.
    4 points
  4. Lucky you @TodFitch. That's a rare story these days it seems. Computers are everywhere in our lives. Controlling almost everything it seems. I would not blame a modern day technician for this. Manufacturers are forced to comply with tight emissions, consumer pressure, price pressure, competition, and more. Computers help here. They are sophisticated and programmed to function by engineers a lot smarter than the average car owner. A modern day tech is a result of his surroundings. 99.9% of what a tech works on is computerized. So are many of the tools he/she uses to troubleshoot the complaint. We're here as a unique group of car owners hanging on to almost a century old technology. Like flat head engines. We love old cars. We love working on them. They bring us joy. It sure is nice to find a mechanic who also loves these old cars. Even better when you find said mechanic and they actually listen you what you say. As mentioned in post 1. Many younger technicians today don't know a world without internet and cell phones. The world has changed very quickly as more and more people become electronically connected. As we are here in this forum. It seems that sadly, the art of face to face communication is dying. Attention spans are short. Sometimes it feels like nobody listens anymore, compared to the 80's, 70's, 60's and so on. This is progress? I had an interesting experience recently. I went to the local Canadian Legion on a Sat night. A 2 piece band was playing old dance standards. The audience were all seniors. They got up promptly when the music started and glided all over the dance floor. Smiling with friends. At music breaks they sat together with all their dance floor partners and laughed over drinks. Not one cell phone ever came out. No selfies. No Facebook posts. Just music, friends and a beer or two. I quickly surmised that that generation and their culture is almost lost for good. It's sad what's going on today. Good luck finding a good tech who will listen. It seems they are far and few between.
    3 points
  5. 3 points
  6. Try to avoid falling in love with a 1942 anyting unless it is one already restored. Finding missing body parts can be a real bitch.
    2 points
  7. This is true. But it also seems true that the only real way to fix the engine/drivetrain on a car built in the last 15 or maybe even 20 years is to check with a ODB2 tool to see what codes are being reported. And some technicians are smart enough to dig through a whole list of codes and figure out what the real issue is. For example, a little while ago my 2004 Prius died. I checked the codes on it and top of the list was one that said MG2 (or maybe it was MG1) was bad. MG in this case is "motor-generator". There are two of them and they, along with a planetary gear set, are basically the transmission of the car. Cost of repairing/replacing a transmission is basically enough to total the 13 year old car. The technician looked past the top error code and found the crank sensor on the gasoline engine had failed. That failure meant the engine would not start, since the engine is started by the motor-generator the computer blamed the motor-generator. In the end, it was a couple dollar part along with a bill for diagnosis and labor.
    2 points
  8. Yes the screw can be removed....... What it looks like.....
    2 points
  9. Our local volunteer fire department has an annual car show. I missed it last year, but I was able to take my B-4-B to it this year (won Best Original Truck class). I am not into the trophies, but I was on Cloud 9 when the man I bought the truck from 42 years ago stopped by the truck to visit for a couple of hours. I had tried to buy the truck (parked, bed off, not running for at least 5 years) from his father - the original owner (Gilbert Toepfer - pronounced "Teffer"), but he would not sell. When Mr. Toepfer passed away, his son Marvin called my folks and asked if I wanted to buy the truck from his dad's estate - $100 back in 1975. Marvin is on the right, I am the one in need of a wide-angle lens on the left. He is now 81 yrs young and still quite sharp. We talked all things "old Dodge truck" and our hometown. It made his day as much as it did my son's and mine. Marvin told me that he never remembered the truck looking this nice since it was always a work truck. Because of its work status, he's pretty sure that no "back in the day" photos exist of it (but he will look). BTW, the man in the lawn chair on the left was showing his 1971 Barracuda (not a 'Cuda) convertible. He is the original owner. He joked that my truck was bringing the folks in, then they would look at his Barracuda to be polite. His car actually took top place at the show.
    1 point
  10. Took the suburban down to Sarasota Florida for the gran prix of off shore boat race and they also have a custom car show raising money for children's charities in Sarasota county. Well attended show and nice cars. Lots of high horsepower vehicles- super birds/vipers/vettes/boss 429/etc. low and behold my little flat head six won best engine
    1 point
  11. I kept my bikes but they are in storage. The old thumper is actually pretty quiet..... the 2 stroke Stormer is another thing altogether. One of the loudest bikes you will ever hear. Got a very unique sound too. Some say it is one you never forget. My Kiwi buddy Marty best described it like someone cutting a 55 gallon drum apart with a dull chainsaw. I was thinking of selling the Stormer and using the money to fit a sidecar to the 500 thumper. I would do it for the fun but I am not sure I can get Buddy to wear goggles ...... I feel certain the sight of us pulling up to the clubhouse for Sunday brunch would raise more than a few eyebrows.
    1 point
  12. I'd like to have the one owner, unrestored 1937 Plymouth PT50 pickup that I sold around 1983. I still miss that truck.
    1 point
  13. Damn HOA's. Those are some harsh rules. Jeff you should get on the board and start to propose some changes. Or make some fake signs. "No BMWs past this point" "No 'enhanced' individuals allowed in the pool between 2 and 4 p.m." "Vehicles with gold emblems will be towed at owner's expense"
    1 point
  14. Way back in the 50's this pie safe was stored in my dads garage. This was the time when Zorro was a popular TV show. So I added the mark of Zorro. This pie safe is now in my dining room and still carries the mark.
    1 point
  15. There are two things to look for when swapping these. 1) Make sure it has the same number of bolts/studs mounting the pumpkin to the axle housing. (I think they are either 10 or 11 hole) 2) You need to check the axle spline count of your truck and see if it matches the other. The only way to do this is to slide an axle out. There is a coarse (10) and a fine (16) spline style. I don't know if you can swap the pinion and ring gear between them or not, I've only done an entire center section swap. Look here:
    1 point
  16. I would venture a guess that the axle widths are different. That being said, the differential assembly should bolt right into your axle housing. You will have to swap over the input drive flange from the truck diff. Also, you'll need to check the spline count on the axle shafts. Somewhere along the line the spline count changed. If this is the case you may be able to swap out the side gears in the differential too.
    1 point
  17. push the envelope! I know you can do it! Just put a pretty man cave (you never use) up as a distraction...
    1 point
  18. Ed..buy the one on here..it is a 4 door, for the family you have...leave the two door car to we DINKs
    1 point
  19. I'm not, that's my point, flatheads reign!
    1 point
  20. Grade 3 to 5 should be fine for a thermostat housing. It has no real pressure on it to speak of. Providing it's not a Chinese bolt,that is. Grade 3 in China means Grade -3 BTW,for those who don't know,you check the grade of a bolt by looking for straight lines on the head of the bolt. All bolts start at Grade 2,so the heads on these are unmarked. I am assuming a Grade 3 will only have one mark but I have never seen one. Grade 5,which I have always called "hardware quality bolts" will have 3 marks on the heads. Grade 8 will have 5. Grade 8 are machinery bolts like head bolts. The threads fit much tighter,and they are made from harder steel. It does you no good at all to use grade 8 bolts if the bolt goes all the way through to the other side and you use grade 5 or lesser nuts on it. Always try to match the nuts with the bolts.
    1 point
  21. 1 point
  22. Hotrod, Search John T53 and look at his T5 swap. He did a WC T5 with the Camaro case, S10 tailhousing etc. He is a nice guy and helped me a lot with mine. His post should answer most of your questions.
    1 point
  23. Oh yes way deep. And I think most of the guys get manicures...... But I have got lots of thumbs up too. (I think) Just not from the Audi/Tesla and Maserati folks. Imagine that. I told my daughter that I was thinking of joining the polo club and getting an old burro. I would love to do it just to see the reaction it would get. There is also a pretty large water feature in our yard that would be great to raise crawfish in. Maybe going door to door in a burro cart with a big simmering pot of crawfish gumbo would be a good way to break the ice with the neighbors?
    1 point
  24. call vintage american i got all my parts from them nice guys in ny.
    1 point
  25. Who says a flathead 6 can't beat a hellcat. Did it today
    1 point
  26. I have a 1952 B3B that was all black from the factory with the ivory wheels. My grandfather bought the truck when it was 4 years old and I can honestly say the cab and all front sheet metal has only black paint. A lot of color chip charts didn't include black because black is black ( you would not need a color chip to match the color)
    1 point
  27. I was fortunate to find my 36 Desoto for sale a couple of years ago....
    1 point
  28. Back in 1968, I had a nice 57 Belvedere two door hardtop . All white, tinted glass, blue interior V 8 Torqueflite. Wish I had kept it . It will be hard to find another at a reasonable price.
    1 point
  29. Black is offered for the B4 series trucks.... the November 1952 "Facts Data Book" shows black as a factory Std color.
    1 point
  30. Thanks for the cheers, guys. Crossmember was Trans Dapt #9424 (universal, 6" drop, w/o mount). you can order the mount w/ the crossmember (#9444) in one package if you don't already have one. I had a mount for a TH-350 that fit the T5. http://www.tdperformance.com/products/?id=3387 The driveshaft was modified from the original. All they did was shorten it, which eliminated the built-in slip joint in the process. The original 3-spd stick is still in place. I don't want to trash it, nor do I want it taking up space in the garage. I think I'll just leave it in the truck; it doesn't bother me. Maybe I can figure out another function for it....ideas?? Thanks,
    1 point
  31. The last thing needed underneath is a rear cross member. I got a universal one from Trans Dapt. This one has a 6" drop and bolted right in between the frame rails. On each side, one of the mounting bracket holes lines up with a frame rivet, so I removed the rivet and bolted through in its place. Back inside the cab, the stick received two coats rust-oleum satin black, and was finished off with a simple Jeep T5 shifter boot from Morris 4x4 center. The boot is thick rubber and took some break in, although it has only pulled the tranny out of gear only about 3 times so far. Now it's good. On April 30th I took the maiden voyage down to San Luis Obispo, and took the backroads home east of the 101, near Parkfield. No services for 60 miles, but no worries. It's like a new truck! In addition to the od, the close ratio gears really woke this truck up. Keeping up with traffic is now possible, and fun.
    1 point
  32. The original T-5 I bought was a NWC from a diesel powered S-10. The input shaft was too short and I had to replace it with one from a gas powered S-10 as pictured. Second picture is a mock up with the new shaft installed. Third and fourth pictures are the pilot bearing mount I made to do away with the pilot bushing. It has been a while but if I recall there are a bunch of internal needle bearings that will fall out when you remove the input shaft and the shaft will only come out when it is in a specific position as it has a cut out to clear a gear on one side only. This cutout can be seen in picture #1. Hope you have a T-5 manual. For more pictures follow this link. http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v65/DonCoatney/T-5/?start=all
    1 point
  33. 1 point
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