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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/24/2017 in all areas

  1. One more close up shot. Once set it sets its not to glossy but not flat either.
    3 points
  2. Looking again at the first (OP) post, this is a really nice looking truck. the paint is in good shape, as least from the distance the photo was taken. Give 'er some love with cleaner wax. If you want the extra step, polishing (not rubbing) compound first. That's it. If this were my truck, I'd also paint the wheels, front bumper, and running boards to make it 'pop' just that extra bit, and turn the RWL tires around so you have blackwalls on the outside. Boom.
    3 points
  3. As all of you know I collect the old Miller factory tools. A couple of weeks ago I received an email from Travis Hall and he informed me that he had several old miller tools that he would like to donate to my collection. These tools are to be used by the forum members that might need them to help with their cars or trucks. I would like to personally thank Travis for the donation and he has saved these tools from being put in the trash where no one would ever get to see or use them. Travis is a members of the P15D25 forum. Here is a list of the following millers Tools: C-745 rear axle outer seal tool for the 41 Mopar cars and up C3640 c3821 Driver and thimble worm shaft seal C3782 driver power steering pump shaft seal c3284 used on powerflite trans c355-7 part of the engine front end puller equpiment set Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com
    2 points
  4. I went tubeless with my Diamondback radials over 7 years ago. Not even a slow leak.
    2 points
  5. I did rubbing compound and clr to remove rust and oxidation then boiled linseed oil to protect.
    2 points
  6. Let's add transmission swaps to this topic and see where it goes ... ! I have a daily driver that has a "fair" paint job that is over 30 years old. You could interpret it as a light form of patina, I guess. There's small rust spots here and there, and I've painted panels with rattle cans and had other panels painted in a shop when it was necessary. The truck was completely oxidized when i got it. I use just Meguire's cleaner wax about once a year and that's it. It removes oxidation and waxes at the same time. Perfect for a driver. It makes the truck look a lot better than when it's oxidized, that's for sure. I had primer spots for a while to cover some of the rust on the hood but couldn't stand it, so had the hood painted. The truck looks ok from 50 feet, there is no primer, and no huge rust spots. All just two colors of its two-tone paint job. one day this truck will be painted, to make it right, and preserve it properly, so it can start the clock on another 50 years of weathering.
    2 points
  7. So I am trying to decide if I want to wax my truck or leave it the way it is. I have washed it a few times now. As a buddy of mine tells me it's patina. My question would you wax or leave the patina.
    1 point
  8. my eyes wishes it had not seen it now.......
    1 point
  9. I really enjoy reading about your trips. I have my own memories of a certain 51 Dodge and hearing your stories really come alive. I understand your feelings and emotions that you have riding in your own little piece of history. Understand that everyone that ever drove that car had the exact same impressions and feelings. I guess I'm just thrilled that you are appreciating your ownership. I am too.
    1 point
  10. or transfer the ring gears?
    1 point
  11. Maybe you can take the 146 tooth flywheel to a machine shop and have drilled and tapped for a 11" clutch setup that you already have. I needed to go the other way-had flywheel that was drilled for 11"clutch and wanted to use the 10" I already had. Cost was $40 for the work- 1 hr. minimum shop charge was $40, so it took 1 hr. or less to do. Worth a look. DJ
    1 point
  12. Two years ago I bought Coker WWW radials and had them mounted on my stock rims with no tubes. They have held air since. Only one rim gave me a little trouble, it had an elongated opening for the stem and was tough to seal.
    1 point
  13. Before you mount them with tubes, check the inside of the tires to make sure there are no mylar bar code stickers left in the tire. They are typically on the side wall area. If left over time chaff the tubes eventually leading to holes and flat tires. This has happened to a couple members of this forum and several other folks I have spoken with. Cocker does not mention this in their mounting instructions and takes no responsibility for any failures leaving them in may cause. I also remember from having tubed tires mounted the installer using baby powder or cornstarch as a buffer to prevent stiction between tireand tube. Probably more of a concern with radials as they by design have more side wall flex and sidewall movement than bias ply tires. Good luck with your decision.
    1 point
  14. I just bought new Coker WWW. They recommend tubes. This is the one that they recommended for my 16" radials. https://www.cokertire.com/gr16-165-185r16-400-tr13-radial-tube.html
    1 point
  15. Please tell me what brand name rods you use, I would like to buy some stock in that company before you start welding..
    1 point
  16. Got it. Used 1/4" tooling stock with a hook fashioned at one end and a 1/2" 20 thread nut of slide hammer use. Picked a lot out with a magnet as well. I'll weld it up for re-use.
    1 point
  17. Since you are going with Coker I would suggest that you call them directly and talk with them. Since they are the ones that know their tires and the new radial style they would be better at giving you the correct answer. Be safe and a call is alot safer than relying on input from the forum members. There also might be a specific tube that is used with radials vs the old style tube that was used with bis ply tires. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com
    1 point
  18. 5 L equals 5.28 quarts and good point about the dipstick. The stick was compared to the known quantity.
    1 point
  19. Yeah, I used H. Duty Cables and the sparks kept coming. Something is monked up in there, and obviously I don't know what the HE - double L I am doing. I am going to ship it out West there is a Cracker Jack Starter - Generator Place I know of that will make quick work of this Starter. Thanks again I guess I was in over my head with this one. At least I got my mind right now - (Cool Hand Luke). L.O.L.
    1 point
  20. It could be any recommendation above. Next time you run it and it dies, carefully touch the coil (only briefly). If it's burning hot, then it may be your coil. Beyond that, you might double check your float adjustment in your carb. Also, not sure on these carbs but on my tractor carbs there is brass mesh where the line runs into the carb. Sometimes those collapse and cause a restriction so you can basically run it dry but if you let it sit, it will slowly refill the bowl. So restarting shortly after it dies gets your a few minutes, but if you let it sit for multiple hours it would run for several minutes before running dry. It's the only things I can think of... I'm sure you've tried those, but I figured I'd mention it.
    1 point
  21. Lets not bring that up! Next thing you know, somebody will have a hurt feeling and this will become a locked topic!
    1 point
  22. Old Sun Tachometers used a sending unit.
    1 point
  23. This might or might not help.
    1 point
  24. A bit of paint and a brush can cover and preserve with very little cost.
    1 point
  25. This is an old farm truck I pulled out of a fence row in Colorado. An afternoon with a hose, soap, and some Mother's cleaner wax got me here.
    1 point
  26. Three words! Boiled Linseed Oil. Preserve, protect, has a semi gloss sheen. Popular with antique farm implement and tool folks, and Antiquers too. Check you tube there are a couple bids. One even is a dodge truck.
    1 point
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