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  1. 5 points
    John32369

    And so it begins

    Just purchased a 48 business coupe. Has 270 poly head with a fluid drive sitting in it right now. Plan on putting a 230 with a straight drive from a donor car in it soon. Wish me luck, It has the grill and all the chrome.
  2. 3 points
    Jerry Roberts

    Art Deco vehicles

    My 1941 Plymouth i/2 ton .
  3. 2 points
    coat it with a good solution of water and coolant with proper rust inhibitor additives.
  4. 2 points
    hansen

    Coupes you like

    Nice 1934 Plymouth in Sweden
  5. 2 points
    Went to Homer Alaska today with my sister-in-law and her husband. Their first time in Alaska. Mount Redoubt, an active volcano Cook Inlet outside of Homer The best pizza I've ever eaten Fat Olive Homer boat harbour Across the bay from Homer
  6. 1 point
    · · For Decades I have listened to people talk about Flathead Mopar 6 Cylinder Engines in terms of intakes, what is the best carb configuration for their particular situation. Discussions on putting two carbs and those who claim to be sure that is too much carburation or that it will use to much fuel. Then every once in a while the discussion of 3 carbs comes up, and that almost always sparks the debate on how it would take a race motor to need it, or how the engine will bog, or run poorly. In the last 20 years with a good friend of the AoK boys coming across a huge stash of 2 barrel carter weber carbs which were designed for slant six engines, the discussion on utilizing a 2 barrel instead of two singles comes up. I just smile, but then I know that when the stash of 2 barrel carter webers were found, its finder put them on his website as a carb for a flathead mopar. Its amazing how a market can be created and how quickly – “this is the way to go” spreads like rapid fire, without as much as any background check into something. But 1st, let me go back to the 1st time I heard the discussion on multiple carbs vs a single multi-barrel carb, or put another way, comparing that “old technology carter ball and ball vs a modern 4 barrel carb”.. It was about 45 Years ago, when I 1st heard someone in a conversation with my Grandfather and my Dad, suggesting they knew a lot about Flathead Mopars and were sporting a 4 barrel carb on a homemade intake. This gentleman had played with flathead Ford v8s and had came across a Dodge 2 door sedan from the mid-50s. He was suggesting he had built the ultimate flathead Chrysler Engine and he was one of those guys that whatever he had at the moment was just the best and the only way to go. Well after my Dad explained he had far from the ultimate flathead Chrysler, and that his wife’s daily driver (my Mom) was good enough to kick his ass, Dad pulled out my Mom's pickup. It was sporting a bored out 265, with a cam, a factory dual intake and exhaust with a pair of carter ball and balls, and an a833 4 speed tranny. After a little bit of fun that really wasn't much of a contest, licking his wounds sort of speak, Mr "Ultimate Flathead Chrysler" started down the road of excuses when Grandfather shook his head and cut him off at the pass. Grandfather like my Dad were automotive Engineers, and Grandfather literally knew more about Chrysler Flatheads than any person alive. Given he saw the very 1st flathead roll of the line in Windsor, Ontario Canada in 1935 and saw the last block cast in 1959, he had some pretty good credentials to give a lecture. What is explained in a few minutes was not only how the flathead engine worked, but why the engine this gentleman had came with only 1 carb failed to perform. Most think that 1 carb was put on the engine and that it has sufficient carburation for the engine, and if it needed more, Chrysler Engineers would have put more on. On a basic level that is true, but what engineering was building was an engine to a specific HP, torque and fuel consumption target and not to get the most out of the engine, make it as efficient as possible or even have it run to anything close to 100% optimum performance. By Optimum performance I am not talking maximum hp or maximum rpm or optimum fuel mileage on a vehicle. Grandfather then explained that in fact when Chrysler was faced with the need to meet a 5 ton truck specification for dump/plow trucks asked for by Canadian Municipalities during the winter of 1950, that the requirement had filtered to engineering in late 1950. They developed the 265 ci motor which was 3 7/16" bore and 4 3/4" stroke and have dual carbs and dual exhaust on them, which was what was in Mom’s pickup. Few realize that that engine actually had more hp than any other engine on the market. I will attach the picture of the poster that was on Grandfathers office at the time. I gave it to George Asche Jr years ago. In any case you can see the hot v8 mopar had in 1952 was 133 hp and the flathead 6 had more hp. As an aside Grandfather with the cam grind out of the 1952 Chrysler that engine exceeded 150 hp at the time, but given the time, energy and money that have been invested in the new Hemi v8 that was never going to see the light of day on any marketing information. That engine and the fact it had a factory intake, immediately became a stock car favorite in the 1952 season, when Mopar dominated stock car racing everywhere it landed. In any case Chrysler didn't just put on a second carb on it because they needed more carburation. By then Chrysler already had Carter building Ball and Ball carbs from 85cfm - 425 cfm each and we now know they had a 625 cfm carter ball and ball single barrel carb if they needed it. The reason for two was the basic issue, some would call flaw, but Grandfather would call basic restriction to taking the engine to the next level. I say that folding back to the earlier point that Chrysler was building engine to a spec of "x" hp, "y" torque and "z" fuel consumption. The flathead 6 build by Chrysler has 3 Siamese intake ports, each of which feed two cylinders. Setting aside the exhaust for a second, and keeping in mind that an engine is really just a giant vacuum pump, putting 1 carb in the middle of the block, basically over the middle intake port feeding cylinders 3 and 4, means that if all cylinders are the same in compression ratio and ability to create vacuum and suck in a fuel mixture coming from the carb, then cylinder 3 and 4 are going to get more fuel than the intake ports feeding cylinders 1 and 2 or 5 and 6. Yes Chrysler made intake modifications to help that, but they again were not trying to make the perfect engine, just have it meet specs required. As a little aside if your look at intakes from the 1930s through to the 50s you will notice Chrysler Engineers raised the level of the carb. With the Dual Carb truck intake it also was raised further with governors placed under the carbs. The height of the carb mounting above the intake posts can easily be seen to rise from the 1930s to the 1950s. Its also why if your look at some of the aftermarket dual intakes made in the 30s and compare them to say the 3rd generation Edmunds in the 50s you will notice a huge difference in height. The raising of the carbs and providing a smoother run from carb to the intake ports saw huge benefits in performance. Of course maybe buried in the story is the fact that early intake was designed for a marine application where quick rev was far more the desired trait than was torque. When the intake was moved to an automotive application you would find a quick rev with the clutch engaged, but disengaged there is a significant loss in torque and it will actually burn more fuel than a single carb. But back to my story, if we now add the exhaust component into your stock Mopar flathead (or L-head) which depending on what year engine and what vehicle, has the single exhaust exiting at one of a few different locations. For this discussion lets say it exits at the back as does the post ww2 cars. What you find is as the cylinders push out exhaust there is almost no restriction or back pressure at cylinders 5 and 6, but there is a great deal of back pressure at cylinders 1 and 2. So here we have the most back pressure making it tough to push away the exhaust and actually the front intake port receiving the least amount of fuel. While the engine meets specs with no problem, its clear that if you can balance the exhaust, by having 3 exhaust cylinders exit through 1 exhaust pipe and the other three through a 2nd pipe, you can better balance the exhaust back pressure. We sort of glossed over the fact that while there are only 3 intake ports, each cylinder does have its own exhaust port. Something that changed with the introduction of the slant 6, which had 6 equal intake runners each feeding a cylinder. Back to the flathead, if we can better distribute fuel to balance the opportunity for each of the 3 Siamese ports to get fuel, then the engine will run more efficiently. So if you were to take a big block 25 1/2" engine, and anyone of them, not just the 265 and put the factory dual carb and dual exhaust setup on it and then put on the appropriate carter ball and ball carb on it, it will gain hp, torque and improved fuel mileage. The reason is it runs more efficient. The same takes place with the 23 1/2" USA small block which has the same intake and exhaust configuration, although slightly smaller ports. If you take it one step further, putting 1 carb on top of each intake port, you can provide the optimum amount of fuel efficiency for the engine. Back to our 4 barrel friend, putting on a large carb just provides a further opportunity to over fuel the center siamese intake port. When he hammered the throttle it was actually not able to burn all of the fuel in the middle two cylinders and was “bogging” ,until it could gain enough RPM to use some of the fuel. When he was running against Mom’s pickup which had more balanced back pressure, and a better distribution of fuel he had no chance even if the engines were internally the same. Of course they weren't but that is another story. Years later when we created the AoK triple intake, we placed the first intake on an almost rock stock 201 ci motor. It had been rebuilt stock, although required to be bored out 10 thou to clean up cylinders. Beyond that it was a stock cam, intakes etc. With 3 of the smallest CFM carter ball and ball carbs on board and headers made from a stock exhaust systems, the car ran smoother, had better acceleration and got 6 miles per gallon better highway mileage over the single carb and single exhaust. In the end, it is just a myth that you need some bored out, cammed up engine for 2 carbs and a full race motor for 3 carbs. The reason why Chrysler didn't run 3 carbs was simple. 1) The cost of 3 carbs was no inconsequential 2) They could meet the HP, Torque and Fuel useage targets with 1 carb. The exception was when there was a time window where the dual carb, dual exhaust 265 ci motor was released, but with overhead valve v8s and Hemi's coming shortly after the multiple carb flathead life-cycle was short lived. There is a bit more it than that. I have glossed over a bunch of the engineering parts of why you don't just put a carb directly to each intake port with no equalization tube, but I am sure you get the drift. Unlike a v8 where you might try and make carbs progressive because your feeding a intake plenum that equally or close to equally feeding all 8 cylinders, the flathead engine has 3 intake ports each feeding 2 cylinders so progressive carbs just are not effective. On the flathead Mopar, with either 2 or 3 carbs you want them to produce the exact same fuel to feed each of the Siamese ports exactly the same. Its not progressive in terms of additional barrels or carbs, its progressive by pushing on the gas peddle. The key is making sure both or all three carbs are identical and that you have linkage that operates all of them exactly the same. Its a common misconception that they must be hard to keep synced. We have engines with tens of thousands of miles on them with multiple carbs and are never adjusted. George Asche's 1929 Desoto that he has owned since 1950 likely has an unbelievable amount of miles on it and likely the carbs were only touched when George has redone the engine. I own vehicles with 100,000 + miles on them and the linkage for the dual carbs has never touched. That has a lot to do with just how good Carter Ball and Ball carbs are.. We also get asked quite often about modifying the block to provide 6 intake ports, or using webers or other carbs, or running fuel injection. Dad and Grandfather with too much time on their hands, as my Mother would say, did modify a couple of engines to provide 6 intake ports. There were several intakes made including one with an 18" runner set on it, one with 6 side draft webers and one with modified hilborn fuel injection. At the end of the day, with various levels of success, nothing seems to outperform an Edmunds triple carb intake with riser blocks and 3 matched 1952-56 Truck carbs on them and maybe with some jetting changes. Of course, since then we have developed a couple of new cam profiles and of course the AoK triple which utilizes better and modern casting technology, as well as better flow bench testing and computer modelling that neither Chrysler or Eddy Edmunds had. Have we thought about digging out the 6 intake port block that is still in Dad's shop, well yah we have, but that is another project and a blog entry for another time.
  7. 1 point
    countrytravler

    Art Deco vehicles

    1939 Airflow
  8. 1 point
    That would be the cast date. I've always heard they liked to let them season for a while so your actual build date is likely later.
  9. 1 point
    Mark D

    Coating For Inside Thermo Housing

    Mines lasted 70 years without. I'd be afraid of particles sluffing off and clogging other parts and passageways. Leave it like the engineers planned it.
  10. 1 point
    This not an attack of any manner on the person asking for advice. However in the very first response to a suggestion it is only then we have any information about changes in a vehicle from stock condition. Without this pertinent information supplied in the beforehand, how can anyone truly make a call. Changes as simple as 6 to 12 volt change all responses for the most part, the changing to the Pertronix is another twist in the mix that plays greatly in the making of a diagnosis. ONLY when these facts are pointed out to the forum population can the forum respond with likely valid scenarios. Any changes in the fuel or electrical systems of this engine needs be made known up front at this time to give the tech heads a valid starting point. Please describe any changes made to your car that you are aware of, they are very important when trying to troubleshoot. Thanks..it will benefit you greatly
  11. 1 point
    Plymouthy Adams

    Starter Bench Testing

    the book has all the specifics for testing the starter motor free of the engine and on the bench...free run speed, current draw and voltage drop..unfortunately not many folks have the resistor, torque gauge or amp gauge laying about that will handle up to 500 amps. nor a direct read rpm gauge for verifying rotational speed at free run. Quick tests as knuckle points out are mainly used at home and can point out some problems. Usually worn brushes but more common is the elongated rear bushing. The bush wear will cause the armature to drag on the field and cause excessive amperage drain on the battery and in car test can usually indicate this problem by rapid heating of the battery cable and slow turning of the engine...a amp draw test with a clip on meter would be good test here, these inductive meter wee not available back in the days these book were written. Don't rule out the voltage drop that could be in the cables itself indicating starter problems, this test is easily performed at home also.
  12. 1 point
    knuckleharley

    Starter Bench Testing

    I "bench test" mine by clamping a jumper cable to the hot post and then use the other jumper cable to touch the mounting plate area. If the starter drive moves smartly and spins vigorously,it's "bench tested". There are load testers you can buy to get specific numbers,but I never bothered with them. If the starter drive travels back to the rear and spins fast with enough torque to want to spin the starter body around on the floor,it will start the car. If that isn't want you want to know,do a web search for "starter test equipment". AFAIK,all the test are the Amp draw and the RPM's,so it using one can't be any more complicated than my floor test. One cable goes to the hot stud and one goes to the ground.
  13. 1 point
    B-Watson

    Coupes you like

    It is a 1953 Kaiser Manhatten 2 door sedan The attached photo of the green 1951 Kaiser Special is a production 4 door sedan. The rear door on the 4 door sedan is longer than the quarter glass on the 2 door sedan due to the longer front door, which was also used on the business coupe and the club coupe. The red and grey 1951 Kaiser Special is a two door sedan - note how narrow the strip is between the rear window and the trunk lid. The red 1951 Kaiser DeLuxe is a Club Coupe - note the wider gap between the rear window and trunk lid as the rear seat is further forward due to the shorter greenhouse. The same trunk lid was used on all models except the Travelers. The Club Coupes are rare but most people like them over the two door sedans.
  14. 1 point
    pflaming

    Coupes you like

    Saw this today. A two door but possibly not a coupe. However possibly on the rare side.
  15. 1 point
    Worden18

    Me and the Meadowbrook

    60s VW camper bus (kid's favorite)
  16. 1 point
    Don Jordan

    give me a brake

    I did not do that - it makes sense - I know it's something little like that. Here I go. If this works I will give you my grandson.
  17. 1 point
    ptwothree

    For you Newbees

    This is a friendly warning to those of you who have got into the 'old car hobby' recently.You really need to check these cars out before you hit the streets. They are 60 yrs old or so and who knows what tey have been thru or what has been done prior to your ownership. Car might look shiny and all chromey, neet as a pin. Or it could be something that was recently dragged out of a ditch that's been home for the last ....??? Do yourself and all of us a favor and go over the front and rear suspension and steering. I say this because no matter what the PO told you, you just don't know what you don't know. I am going thru the front suspension on my '52. All was ok with the left front....got to the right front and found this...... This is the nut and pin that hold the lower control arm to the spindle. The nut is finger loose in this pic. Not good. So the message here is that just because you pour some gas into the carb, fire it up and go for a cruise, doesn't mean it is safe to do so. Suspension, steering and brakes......check 'em out before they check you out.
  18. 1 point
    Plymouthy Adams

    For you Newbees

    This message is equally important to some ole timers as well.......those that become complacent in their routine work...maybe taking a shortcut, or the I'll get it next time mentality...hopefully these just end up as shot in the foot and a flatbed ride home and no other casualties. If doing any work...make a check list and double check your work. Majority of problems that arrive here are owner inflicted due to either poor workmanship and usually always during a routine they had done before in the "surely I did this right" in their mind and question everything beside the work they just completed.
  19. 1 point
    Don Coatney

    Interesting photos I have run across.

    I may have posted this before but it made me laugh when I recently saw it again.
  20. 1 point
    Don, super cool trick! Worked like a champ! Taking my boy out for a ride now.
  21. 1 point
    Robin (UK)

    French Hearse

    Here are a few more pictures of the Belgian Dodge
  22. 1 point
    countrytravler

    Art Deco vehicles

    Windshield looks fixed. 1938?
  23. 1 point
    bambamshere

    Lets see pic of your trucks

    I know this is a photo of a photo but this was my trucks life for a while.
  24. 1 point
    bones44

    Coupes you like

    I bought my first car in 1962 from my neighbor’s grandmother a 1937 D5 Dodge coupe. I still have it and put it back on the road in 2016 with several new technology features after setting for 43 years.
  25. 1 point
    I didn't use it between gasket and block. Just between pan and gasket and made sure I went around each bolt hole.
  26. 1 point
    Ricky Luke

    Art Deco vehicles

    The Ultimate Art Deco Car - The Chrysler in Australia was pretty much the top of the tree in 1940. There were a few Imperials around in 1938/39 and they were trimmed similarly to mine. The TJ Richards version of the C25 had the 38/39 cabin with the 40 front dog house and rear guards (fenders) grafted on. Personally I think it looks better than the US version... TJ Richards records are pretty scarce, so I don't know exactly how many Chryslers were made here. At best there were about 160 of these - assuming all the bare chassis that left the factory came to Australia. I know of one other ex US embassy car in Melbourne, Victoria and I've seen a photo of one in Maroochydore, Queensland. The interior is trimmed with Art Deco style door panels and on the front seat back. The rear panels above the armrests had the same pattern stitched into them. The original seats are actually green leather with the same pattern stitched into them. The plaid is just a later cover. Unfortunately the leather is hard and has seen better days (and mice...) Rick
  27. 1 point
    Roadkingcoupe

    Art Deco vehicles

    Thoughts on the 1937 -1939 Chrysler cars.... The 1937 Plymouth was advertised as the "ALL STEEL" car. This referred to the fact that they were stamping the roofs in solid sheet metal and getting rid of the rectangular vinyl insert that was found on 1936 and prior cars. If you take a good look at the 1939 Plymouth the only "flat" exterior body panels were the two vertical drop boards that go between the hood halves and the front fenders. Every other inch of the car has some king of curved or compound curved surface. As a result the 1939 Plymouth Coupes were considered "bulbous" with huge curved fenders, roof line and trunk lid. It seems the technical ability to stamp / press large panels of metal into extremely curvaceous body panels reached a crescendo with the 1939 Plymouth Coupe (and sedans to a lesser extent). As a result some people find the 39's overdone. They look almost cartoon like...and I love it. The 1940 and on redesign saw the bodies widen and the fenders shrink. The 1941 Plymouth might be one of the most balanced designs of the decade and is a poor mans classic. The point is that prior to 1940 the cars peaked in their curvaceous styling and "roundness", maybe a love it or leave it for some folks but none the less a beautiful exercise in design and technical abilities to produce an almost exaggerated larger then life statement. Over 30 years of ownership the 1939 Plymouth Coupe has had many small children literally run from their parents towards the car like it was a "cartoon" car in larger then life scale. Let me know what you think. Pictured below.......
  28. 1 point
    desoto1939

    Art Deco vehicles

    picture of the sister car to the 39 Chrysler is the 39 Desoto that has been HPOF certified. With Gracho sitting onthe front fender Rich Hartung
  29. 1 point
    Dodgeb4ya

    Connecting Rod Bolts

    A Flathead revving to 10,000 ..... I'd get at least 2 blocks away and fast! I've once had my slightly built 218 to 5200 and that was scary...
  30. 1 point
    OLD DODGE

    build card decoding

    ggdad, First to expand a little more than earlier. This generation card actually has three rows of columns, the third one being down the middle. You were referencing the third row in your original post. If you have any options appearing in the third row of columns the punches would be in the the second row columns 73,74, or 75 and the corresponding printed number would be in the appropriate third row columns. I hope thats not to confusing. You do not have any options there anyway. Your truck's sales order number is 412756. This number is generated when the truck order is entered and eventually becomes the invoice number to the dealer. See my attached photo of a half ton invoice number. The trucks didn't leave the factory in the same sequence that the orders were entered so that is why the invoice numbers are not in chronological order. You have a red 1951 one ton express truck with single rear wheels. The original tire size front and rear was 7.50 x 16 - 8 ply. I believe the anomaly with the "B" in your transmission column is a mistake. It is probably supposed to be a "7". If you take away the top punch the "B" becomes a "7". That would be for a four speed helical tranmission with an 11 inch clutch. you also have the Delux cab and optional heavy duty air cleaner and oil filter. Anything I didn't mention should be obvious but if you have a question on anything let me know. If anyone is interested in obtaining a build card for their truck, which should be everybody reading this, they are available up through 1954 and some '55s. The Chrysler website says something else, 1950 I think, just disregard that. They won't fix it for some reason. Kevin Clause
  31. 1 point
    OLD DODGE

    build card decoding

    ggdad, The punches mean the exact same thing as the text at the top of the columns. There are two rows of 45 columns on each card. A single punch is an odd number. That same punch along with a punch for a 9 makes it an even number. Top punch is a 0. Next down is a 1 or 2, third line is a 3 or 4, fourth line is 5 or 6, fifth line is 7 or 8, last line is the 9. The alpha characters use combinations of 2 and 3 punches. One anomaly is the "B" in column 49. That would normally be a number in that spot. I don't have my books in front of me, so later I'll look up your codes and tell you what they mean. Kevin Clause
  32. 1 point
    Dave72dt

    Rear end swap list.....let's make one

    I'm running an 8" Merc Monarch under mine. Perches need to be removed and repositioned, narrowed to work with original springs. Offset on original rims may not work. Brake lines a bit tight to springs.
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