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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/11/2017 in all areas
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Why?? It looks squashed to me and makes everything look out of proportion as well.2 points
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I think you are more likely to find the problem at the lower end of the steering column where the insulation on the wire has deteriorated.2 points
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it never fails, you keep an item about because there may be a need for it down the road...you trip over it for years, chunk it and within the week you looking for that item....have done that a few times myself....often is hard let some things go2 points
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Hi folks, New member today from Western Canada. I just found this site. It looks pretty active. I am happy to contribute to this group. I own a 1953 Chrysler Windsor Deluxe. Flat head 6. Fluid torque drive. It's new to me, I bought it about a month ago. Still learning about the car. I am very happy to have found another resource here. Looking forward to getting to know you a little. Here is the car. The car is down for a week or two. Waiting for parts to arrive for some valve work. I am pretty comfortable working on cars/motorcycles/boats etc. However this old car is new to me. I have learned a ton already. I enjoy working on it. It is as fun and rewarding to work on for me, as it is to drive. - Keith1 point
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Yeah,I'm loving that one. Used to be a old lady in Denver back in the early 70's that drove one like that everywhere she went. I saw her and the car several times in the general vicinity of the VA Hospital there. The car looked about as nice as that one,too. Only not as shiny. The paint was pretty flat.1 point
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If you pull the wire out of the steering column to inspect it, tie a string to it and pull it through to help get the wire back into the column.1 point
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There used to be or should be a 1/4" choke stove pipe tube extending out the bottom of the exhaust manifold a 1/2" and a 1-1/2" X 3" long "Tub" steel cover that was screwed to the bottom of the manifold and covered the tube. . The other top end of the tube went up to the carb thermostatic choke housing All this so heat would be pulled up the 1/4" heat tube into the choke thermostatic spring winding so as to let the choke plate open as the engine warmed up.1 point
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"bluing quick lap test" For those of you who aren't machinists,he is talking about using "Dykem Blue". It's a liquid coating/dye machinists use to to coat items they are going to machine so they can tell where the cutters are hitting and where they aren't in order to get a perfectly flat surface,or to make sure two parts are in perfect contact with one another. Pretty handy stuff to have in your tool box.1 point
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It's alive!!!!! Started the '37 Plymouth today. Started on the 3rd crank. I parked the car in my driveway in the middle of October just threw a cover over the car. Left the battery in the car. So here is an 80 year old car that sat out all Fall and Winter in the weather with only a light weight cover over it, and it starts on y the third crank of the starter. All I did was pour a little gas down the carb. Didn't have to put the battery charger on. Now my 2005 Dodge Magnum with a Hemi motor, if if sits for 2 or 3 weeks without being started, won't start. Have to put a charger on it. I had only driven it 41 miles since the end of September.1 point
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My son's 52 Plymouth sits in the field behind my house all year round. Just as you did, If you pour a little has in the carb it will start quicker than any vehicle we own. No matter how new. You can't hardley let off the key fast enough. Kinda remind me of old tractors the way they tolerate sitting around.1 point
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I have done many valve jobs with the manifolds on... just need the correct tools and knowledge... I always grind the seats with a Sioux grinder and a bluing quick lap check to be sure of seat location and width. Be sure to plug all the tappet chamber drain holes so you don't lose the keepers down into the basement.1 point
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There are actually multiple advantages to an aluminum head vs a cast iron head, even if combustion chamber design and volume is exactly the same in both. 1) Aluminum is a much better heat conductor than is cast iron. The thermal conductivity value of aluminum is 237K while cast iron is 55K. Therefore the aluminum head will make your engine run cooler than a cast iron head. Add the fins on the aluminum head increasing the surface area of the head and you get even more cooling. 2) Aluminum is much lighter than cast iron. In fact you can take the weight of a cast iron head and multiply it by 0.39 to get the approximate weight of an aluminum head. So if a cast iron head were to weigh say 30 pounds then the equivalent aluminum head would weigh approximately 12-13 pounds. Reduced weight equals increased acceleration and improved MPG. 3) The Edgy head is built using much newer production technology than a nearly 80 year old cast iron part and then individually machined offering improved sealing and theoretically improved flow. Just my two cents.1 point
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Whilst these two are essentially stock they are RHD so maybe add a slight variation to what you guys normally see......the Oz 1940 Dodge dash uses the standard key ignition switch but has the standard Oz chromed push button starter to the right of the gauges, the Smiths brand Tacho & aftermarket steering & column are obviously not stock but all the dash pieces were rechromed many moons ago and still shine well..........the Oz 1941 Plymouth dash is basically as I got the car, with the gauge in beige with a black area around the gauges, the cream coloured steering wheel is from a P15 as far as I am aware and as you can see tacho in the chromed pod on the top of the dash carries on my way of doing things, the Plymouth had a 60's style key ignition/start switch partially covered by the steering wheel...................btw all mid 30's onwards Oz mopars that I have seen have had the separate key ignition and dash mounted button starter as being RHD there is no way that the foot starter button arrangement that LHD cars use would be workable with RHD, so the button came to live on the dash..............regards, Andyd1 point
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If it were mine, I'd keep it the original ride height but as been said before, you are the owner and you should fix it to your liking. This is one of my favorite years for Cadillac. Superb style. Thanks for posting it. John R1 point
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not but one dash in the 40's...the D24.....the rest are simply head rests in an accident.... this is the center section of my cruiser build with the D24 dash switch knob at radio position is fog light with fog light "ON" indicator the green indicator below right vent ash tray position, AC compressor on indicator. Next to that is the SRS air bag fault indicator.1 point
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Tonight after some yard work we drove the Meadowbrook over to a neighboring town so the kids could play at the park. Wifey and I walked the dogs. This time I drove between 50 and 55mph. Runs just as smooth at those speeds. Still averaging about 17mpg; but I remember before the engine was rebuilt at 55mph I was averaging about 20mpg, and at 40-45 about 17mpg. So I'll have to try a tank on 55mph alone to see what the mileage comes out as. I suppose too the engine isn't really broken in yet; might take a couple thousand more miles to loosen up and for mileage to improve. Not really sure. Gonna keep racking up the miles though so I find out Here's a highway pic with the moon directly ahead:1 point
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