Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/31/2017 in all areas

  1. I'm at the stage where I needed to install the antenna for my stock Mopar 802 radio into the '40 wagon, but I didn't want to drill holes in the cowl. I considered the "Roadway" running board mounted setup, but even if it worked, I was still stuck listening to local AM stations (mostly news, Spanish language, or religious broadcasts) so I was looking for an alternative. I remember seeing a company in Wisconsin that used your existing AM radio, 6 or 12 volt, negative or positive ground, with or WITHOUT an antenna, that would play your tunes from an mp3 player, iPod, phone, etc., through your stock radio, but I couldn't remember the name. Then I went to bed and woke up in the middle of the night with the part of the name: Ready-radio, or something to that effect. Google came up with RediRad so I contacted them at their website and after a little research, ordered the 6 volt, positive ground model, which was $99. The next weekend I installed it but it didn't really work- I could barely hear the music, with lots of static. I played around with the ground, took power directly from the battery, etc, with no luck. I emailed them, explaining the situation. Matt, the owner/tech guy, suggesting a few different causes and offering to call me to discuss. Matt called yesterday, and talked me through the setup steps, and voila! it worked! Turns out my tuner was slightly off (you need to tune in to AM 1000). After that Matt and I talked for about 10 minutes (they are apparently all old car dudes at RediRad) and he asked if they could add a picture of the Plymouth on their website. Matt mentioned that they could have saved some money by offshoring the RediRad components, but decided to support American companies and purchase everything from US suppliers and manufacture them here. It is so refreshing in our supposed "service" economy to work with companies that walk the talk and seem to actually care about their customers. Now I can listen to the Beach Boys like back in the day! Here is their web link: RediRad - Rediscover Your Radio
    2 points
  2. Just got off the phone to Dave the guy selling this engine, he originally thought it was brass but in hindsight it maybe bronze...... it blows a bit of smoke yet has good compression which is why he thinks a ring maybe broke however he has not removed the head.............the boat was built in 1961 and the engine which was original to the 1961 build has an engine number beginning with D40, a 1951/52 Oz Dodge number indicating a 218.6 engine, 25" long......Dave has removed the complete engine assembly and would like to sell the assembly in one lot........he intends to install a 318 LA series engine.........he has taken the boat out for a couple of runs but felt he needed a bit more oomph hence the engine swap........I advised Dave that it would be a shame to scrap the engine and he definitely has no intention of doing that.........he maybe interested in offers so........it does include the special intake & exhaust manifolds, 10litre sump, etc...........he is in Victoria, 15 hours ahead of New York time.............if I win lotto you'll have to be quick as its mine................lol.................Andyd
    2 points
  3. You should consider letting the machine shop order the bearings. Then if there is a problem they have responsibility. Most machine shops can purchase them for less than you and there mark up is minimal so cost wise it should be about the same.I got my bearings from the machine shop and did my own assembly.
    2 points
  4. Greetings Everyone, I'd like to introduce myself, I'm Blaine Grandfield and I've recently acquired a 1949 P18 Club Coupe from here in San Antonio. I picked this car up at the first of May and got her back on the road again. Below is what she needed to get running again. and the following list is what I have planned. Please ask away on any questions and I'll get back to them when I can. Please be flexible as I'm in the military ( U.S. Navy) and can get busy at times. Thanks every one for having me and I'm excited to join such avid group of enthusiasts. Fixed list: Brakes: adjustment/ honed rear drums and replaced front lower wheel cylinder, bled system and adjusted the brakes. Engine: replaced the ignition coil for the 12V conversion, installed new points, plugs, rebuilt the carb (it's a YFA 1BB most likely off another donor car of a different branded vehicle but those things came in the plenty), replaced rear crank rope seal-only the lower, replaced rear bearings in the main cap (stock size) as I couldn't use my brain when hammering in the rope seal and unfortunately nicking the bearing while doing so (should've taken it out) but that's afterthought of the mistake and it's fix. Bought complete gasket kit from Summit Racing ($69!) and comes with a Fel-Pro Copper Head Gasket- not yet installed. Replaced the oil pan and fuel pump gaskets as they were leaking. Re-welded the down draft tube back onto it's bracket (it was broken off), installed electric choke on carb. Welded the carb heater valve to it's closed position as it was more of a exhaust leak then of help. I'm in San Antonio, Texas so it doesn't need it anyways. Water hose flushed the old coolant out, Grease ALL the fittings witch are surprisingly many of them haha. Electrical: Converted the rest of the exterior lights and interior lights to 12 volt bulbs including the head lights and also wired the brakes lights to an aftermarket blinker kit to have all the rear lights to work when braking and front for turn signals. Found the original 6V radio is shot so I'll probably buy a refurbished AM unit eventually but they're expensive so I have to save. Installed an aftermarket RPM Gauge to keep tabs on the RPMs at highway cruise speed. Vacuum System: Got the vacuum wipers working again and rebuilt the fuel/vacuum pump with new diaphragms. Cooling: Car has an 160 degree thermostat but still over heats so I installed an electric fan to help the temperature. It still gets hot but I assume its the original water pump as its leaking out the snout behind the belt pulley even after greasing it through it's zerk fitting. To do list: Stop the oil drip from between the cam driven oil pump and the oil pan. I'll try a light coat of Silicone across the entire cork gasket first and see how that does. Possibly replace the rear seal again as it drips occasionally but not much to cry over. I may just leave it be and add a dab of oil every month or so. The Cam driven oil pump gasket area and the rear seal don't leak under hot driving conditions or at idle just when the engine completely cools off and sits for about an hour they pee a bit on my driveway. The rear seal leaks a couple drops and the cam pump (underneath it not the pumps gasket) leaks about as much of a shot glass worth every time I run the engine for over 5 minute or when it gets hot. I believe it may be a pressure related leak about the size of a pinhole that shows up after the block starts to cool down. Convert the front brakes to disc front for safety purposes as I'll have my Wife, 6 & 3 Y/O daughters riding along as much as I can drag them out the house. They're a bunch of vampire light skinned types so they'll need as much sun exposure as possible. I know many here want to keep drum all the way around on their cars/trucks but I'm 27 and don't have the kind of money to throw $160-$245 per drum-hub fronts. I'd rather bite the bullet early and upgrade to something more my era as I'm 27 years old and use to slapping pads on the front and going onward about my day, the rear I can deal with being drum as the drums are fairly priced and easy to tweak to perfection. Seat belts: because Wifey doesn't like it with out them and the girls need them for their car seats. A/C......HA! one day (another Wifey request expensive when looking at Vintage Air A/C and Heater units) Custom glove box (it doesn't have the original panel) with a modern AM/FM Radio because Wifey can't ride anywhere without listening to her I-pod. I am content with listening to the wind and that straight 6! Install the Water Pump from Summit Racing as it's on its way this week. While I'm in there I'm going to dig around inside the water transfer tube with a coat hanger and see if I can dig any crud out. If I do I'll order freeze plugs, pop the old ones out, hopefully yank out the transfer tube and power wash the inside of the block. Re-install everything including a new transfer tube to help the old thing cool better than before. The car has been a blast to work on these past three weeks and even more fun to drive! I've never gotten so much un-wanted attention from complete strangers because of a car. Even after owning a pretty cool 1981 Stepside Silverado that was loud and hot-rodded up. It makes me and my wife want to lock it up and only drive it at night as for some reason it attracts every creepo and tire kicker around town every where we go. I couldn't even get it out of my garage to trouble shoot the blinkers that were grounding out without some guy coming up and puting his D*#! feet on my front bumper and asking for a picture! I wanted spray him off my property with a my water hose! Thanks guys for sticking around and reading through my write up! I can be chatty so beware!
    1 point
  5. Ever seen a flat 6 race engine with a BRASS head? I'm guessing the builder used brass to reduce the corrosion problem race boat engines have to deal with. A friend of mine that knows I love flat inline engines sent me this. Anyone else ever seen one?
    1 point
  6. Never saw the stamped Dodge badge or black handles before now. You never know what you can learn on these forums. Without lots of help from some of the contributors here, I know I'd be having a much harder time with my '51 B3B. I think you have a very unique truck. I hope the engine is in good shape and that you get many fun miles out of it! Your flatbed truck would be perfect in a parade!
    1 point
  7. Works for me. I'm old now,and would need to take frequent breaks anyhow.
    1 point
  8. Tell you what Knuckleharley, how about you beat him until you get tired, then I will beat him until I get tired, then I can hand the cane back to you to finish the job! Muhahahaha
    1 point
  9. Me too... It's being sacrificed to save 3 other trucks. So it is for a good cause.
    1 point
  10. This is what Matt emailed me: If possible before we chat, tune in AM 980 KEYQ and/or AM 1010 KCHJ a few minutes before the top the hour. The FCC requires call sign and frequency identification at the top of the hour. With that information, determine what your dial needle is on...it may not be where you'd expect to see it. As mentioned in the owner's manual, your RediRad operates at AM1000, almost exactly between KEYQ & KCHJ in your area. It is THERE you'll find the RediRad producing clear music, PROVIDED that your music source's headphone volume is set to 50% (AFTER you insert the audio plug into the device).
    1 point
  11. What a great truck! Makes me sad that I must part with my 1939 1.5 Ton.
    1 point
  12. About 7 years ago, I put a brand new master cylinder on a 1949 Power Wagon that I restored. The pedal would slowly go to the floor. I pulled it and dismantled it and realized that this thing was made in Taiwan. Feeling disappointed, I sleeved the original master cylinder with a bronze sleeve and rebuilt it. Problem solved! I hope this helps...
    1 point
  13. I like the looks of that engine. I have no idea how they work on a flathead Mopar but IMO SU carbs are the best carb ever for a Harley..
    1 point
  14. yea I agree but for over $2200 bucks? Which in the ad it says the motor has a broke ring, so all you can count on getting is the carb setup and the head...
    1 point
  15. Okay fellas, after pulling my hair out for the past week and a half trying to figure out what the heck was going on, I got my car running again. Turns out the original fuel pump I had on there was NOT bad. But the reason it died and would not pump gas up to the carb was likely what I originally thought: A piece of sh*t from the old fuel tank got up in the pump and clogged it up. I thought I saw a huge piece when I dumped out the bowl after I disassembled it. Problem was that I didn't put that old pump back on and try it after I cleaned it up, etc. The NEW pump I ordered online would not pump gas, either. So I figured the line from the tank to the pump might be plugged. Put on the new gas tank and flushed out the line....car STILL won't start or pump fuel. Took that new pump out and hooked the inlet up to an ice cream pail of gas and the outlet line that runs up to the carb was in place. THE PUMP PUMPED FUEL. So I thought for sure this new pump was good and the line must be plugged. Today my friend trailered the car to his place so he and his dad could help. These guys are better at this stuff than I am. I really needed their help. We left the NEW pump on the car and hooked it up to a gas can. IT DID NOT PUMP GAS OUT OF THE CAN. Now I'm baffled. My friend disassembled the old pump. He said there is nothing wrong with it. However, the NEW pump's arm has WAY too much travel to get it to pump. When you pump it by hand it works. The short distance the arm really travels when riding the camshaft was not enough for the new pump to actually pump gas. So...we put the old pump back on. My friend also blows into the gas tank (yeah with his mouth LOL!) and fuel comes out of the line up by the pump, which is good. Hook up the old pump, car fires right up! So I need to send the faulty pump back to the seller on ebay. My friends also helped me adjust the clutch, which was pretty easy once I saw how it was done I need to drain the antifreeze again and put on a new thermostat gasket...a thicker one. Can't get the one the builder put on to stop weeping. I'm also going to send in my heater control valve to that guy in California that rebuilds them. For now I just have it bypassed. Hoping to get to Mopars in The Park in Farmington, MN on Saturday for the show!
    1 point
  16. PA & Doc.........I missed that 2 part casting line.....duh!.........lol.........Knuckle, those carbys on the brass head engine are single barrels, made by Bendix Technico here in Oz and appear to be the single barrel Stromberg, I'm unsure if they were based on a US Stromberg........where is the name you mention on the head?........and the water pump on my engine is from one of those Holden 6 engines I mentioned, the PO of my engine had made the round adaptor shown to fit the Holden water pump which here in Oz was much easier & cheaper to find and possibly more efficient than the mopar one............and I've posted on an Oz hotrodders site for any info regarding this engine..............gidday dav...........lol...........andyd
    1 point
  17. Those old MOPAR boat engines sure are an interesting setup. There was a guy selling one just around the corner from my place a while back...
    1 point
  18. IF you make a new dipstick....do an oil and filter change...be sure the unit is void of oil...fill it to one quart less than full....insert your dipstick and use this as the add mark..top off with one more quart of oil, mark the new line as full. Thinking there are there different oil dip sticks......most are based on tube height that is inserted into the block.....am sure in Jolly Ole you can find a suitable donor as a working platform to alter for this engine.
    1 point
  19. Pull off the dist. cap and see if you can twist the rotor. You should be able to twist it slightly one direction, but it should spring back. If you try to twist the other direction it should be solid. If you can twist it back and forth several degrees without much resistance that would indicate a faulty advance mechanism.
    1 point
  20. If I had to replace my dipstick I would change the oil with the proper amount, then insert a new dipstick and see where the oil mark is. I would then place the full mark at that point. You could even stop filling 1 quart short initially to find your "low" mark. Merle
    1 point
  21. That head and carb setup looks very nice - would be a great engine for some sort of "open hood" hot rod. I am jealous of the old school boat guys. Every Mopar flathead I have ever owned (land vehicles) were not reliable when wet. Unless I went very slow, the the engines start to miss like crazy or totally die while trying to go through low water crossings or during driving rain (lots of water on the road splashing up). I would have to stop, get out a dry rag and the WD-40 to dry inside the distributor cap, the points and the plugs to get it going again. I have always been impressed that someone figured out how to keep Mopar flatheads running in a boat without running a military style, waterproof ignition. I am convinced if I owned a boat with a Mopar flathead, I would be the guy in the lake with the non-running engine, trying to get it dry enough to get me back to land.
    1 point
  22. Dorman can be a good source for brand new inexpensive steel wheels and the specs are available online also.
    1 point
  23. Spent nearly the entire weekend working on the car, new brake cylinders on all four corners. Right rear gave me some heartache, kept blowing by the piston gasket, so I pulled another from my stock and that did the trick. Also emptied the gas tank and started cleaning it in place by recycling 5 gallons of gas through the sending unit port and out the bottom drain into a pan. Have since decided the tank needs to come down and be cleaned out. Too much crap in there for my liking. The crap that came out was just gross, stuck to the bottom of the pan I was using to collect it and hardened to a varnish in the sunshine (what little we had on Saturday.) Valves are still sticking... Went to start her today after I got her sneakers back on and all I her was a starter whirring and a lots of back fire through the carb. So I played whack a mole again on #2 and #4 and got them freed up again and she started with some gas dumped in the carb. Friday night was a late night in the garage, stayed up there until 12a, went home and hit the sack only to be woken at 3:30 by my wife telling me that my grandson had been born! Daughter and baby boy Jace are doing terrific. I am in head over heals in love with the little guy, and can't wait to take him for a ride in the convertible.
    1 point
  24. when was the last time you checked the balance of the carb and with what style meter? It is not at all hard to get these out of sync if you ever try to accelerate the engine by hand from any single carb link instead of the common central pull point. Your vacuum to the Mopar distributor is set to be ported, as it is at the manifold, you pulling max vacuum at idle....this is not what you want...you actually can disconnect and plug the vacuum line till such time you get this balanced out as the car will start run idle and accelerate fine without vacuum advance..that is for leaning out in low engine load conditions only for economy.. suggest you start over and establish the air flow as even at both carbs both at idle and mid throttle positions...set your base line timing and also use a vacuum gauge and a sensitive tach to do your adjustments by...am thinking this will get you back to where you can tweak it in.
    1 point
  25. Be a real pain to get out! I have one in my 251 that is being really difficult. I've been using a slide hammer, and driving a thin piece of steel along side it as far as I can get it, then pulling it out. I have a friend that owns an automotive machine shop, and he's done lots of them. he told me he's had them bad enough he had to drill a hole in the back of the block so he could drive it out, then tap the hole for a pipe plug! It definitely needs to come out, because it needs to be working properly to evenly distribute water to the cylinders for proper cooling. if it isn't working properly the rear cylinders will get too hot, causing premature failures.
    1 point
  26. Yep.....that's the infamous Water Distribution Tube..............many of us have discussed its parentage and the various positions it may frequent in getting it removed...............lol............is best to remove it as if the engine is being hot tanked it being there still may restrict how much crud can be removed............some have found that it falls out, others have had to use all manner of removal tools & ideas .............see how yours is to start with or at the very least do a search on this forum as there are quite a few threads about these things...........andyd
    1 point
  27. I remember that time.........didn't the P stand for Performance and the numbers were the horsepower rating..........lol...........should I go stand in my corner now.........or wait to be told?.......lol...............andyd
    1 point
  28. Ahhhhhhhhh!!!! No!!! No!!! Not again!!! You are telling me 1 guy has 2 p heads he wasn't even looking for when so many of us have none??? Nooooooooooo!!! What next OEM radiator caps?
    1 point
  29. I pay Ted with Ribs and Beer lol
    1 point
  30. accIGS-4207-1 us the advance vc-2082rording to my autolite book 1946-48 Ply P15 American made uses the IGS-4207-1 dizzy the 46-48 Candadina use igs-4208B-1 1949 Ply uses theIAP-4103-1 use advance VC 3147 Rich Hartung
    1 point
  31. Is it OK if I sneak this one in here? It's a pre-Mopar Dodge Brothers, and it's not a six cylinder... 27 DB
    1 point
  32. Sounds awesome, those ol hit and miss ... just cant describe the joy they bring, listening to them do their work.
    1 point
  33. Here are pics of the slant 6 distributor conversion. This is a very starightforward deal, not overly complicated, but use resistor type wires and plugs, no solid core wires. You can also use a GM HEI with it too if you choose. Most guys like this, but most guys on here have not done this first hand either, I have, and it is nice easy project.
    1 point
  34. I installed a Langdons HEI dissy in the 41 Plymouth I had a few yrs ago and found it was the best thing I'd done to the car, much quicker, cleaner starts, seemed to run better, overall was VERY pleased although some here have not had such good results but I would recommend it again.........Langdons delivery to me here in Oz was quick and well packed also........this pic is the only one I have of the installation.........andyd
    1 point
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use