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I'm gonna keep it stock . All my friends are telling me to drop in a v8 and automatic but I love the ol gal just the way she is!

There is a car show at the air port in Ellenville, NY just off of rt 209 Saturday May 20 with rain date of Sunday May 21. it is for the benefit of Wings and Warriors. I have a poster, but for the life of me I can't figure out how to post it

I found this in an old yard that I bought cars from. This one is on the crush list but I thought I better show you guys. Located in Little Rock, AR. I found this marker in the trunk.

John Edge - I am very interested to know about the oil filter system on your car. Is it a full flow or a partial like most ? If it is full flow can you talk about how you did that ?

This thread has already been moved to the truck side. While there are differences, a lot of of information is applicable to both cars and trucks and this topic seems like it may fall into that category.

Attempting to attach. DJ Mopar_Accessory_Brochure.pdf

The patina and the yom plate is nice!

Well...thanks to Tim in loaning me a piece of dirt for my 52, ol Bessie (53) got a little attention this weekend!

I have several classics and am a member of forums for each of them. In some cases more than one. I must say by far this site is the best. It has the typical curmudgeons but even those are nowhere as bad as some of the other sites I use. My goal when visiting a site is to obtain information that will help me get/keep my vehicals going while when I can, help others do the same. As one of those Chrysler people who have crashed this site, I am thankful that most here don't mind and are willing to assist because I have yet to find an exclusive site to my old Windsor that is as good as this one and that has the volume of activity. As an example, I also have a '73 D100. There are a few sites that have sections for theses trucks but none that I can ask a question on in the middle of a job and get multiple answers in just a day. This is is a public site, be like a duck and let things roll of your back and be glad that there is a place you can turn to for help with 60+ year old cars and trucks. Without it many of the great cars I see photos of on here would be nothing but rusting hulks.

I disagree—For 32 years I took tons of crap from patients who, rather than tell me what their symptoms were so I could determine just what their problem was, would tell me exactly what their disease was (what med school did they go to???) because they had a friend who had that disease. Frustrating!!! But, that doesn’t give me license to be obnoxious now that I’m older, retired or not. There are no age limits on civility.

I noticed this problem back in the 60s when these items were easily obtainable new. There is a difference between the mounts which were found in Fluid drive cars and those in the Plymouth although they will interchange. All the replacement mounts, even the DPCD ones seem harder. One thing to check is that the through bolt is not compressing the mount. The mount both upper and lower should not be compressed. A spacer which makes the tube longer may be a solution. It can sometimes be very difficult to remove these mounts with the engine in the car. Not all cars had a doughnut on the bottom, some had only a rubber washer. The driver's side is the most important as the engine tends to lift on acceleration.

When it comes to the information on the internet, I have learned to take it all with a grain of salt. Basic information can be erroneous, mix in some opinions and then comes the conflicts. I have recently dealt with Echo, Stihl, Subaru, John Deere and New Holland parts guys working on several pieces of not-new equipment and confusion led to exasperation with them because what I needed did not match their catalogs...I had to rely on my diplomacy skills to keep them motivated to help me out because they wanted to throw their hands up and walk away, and eventually we determined that in each case there were errors in their online catalogs that we were able to correct on our end to get the right parts to get this equipment back in the field. These parts guys are just like most mechanics in that they are helpful up to a point, then their less-than-outgoing personalities begin to re-emerge and they start to shut down in some form of frustration. They aren't bad ppl, but most guys fall into this category in that continued questioning is an implied second-guessing of abilities that can be insulting to one's machismo. Some things just are not up for debate, it either works or does not work...that sort of thing. One of the most important things I have learned from using the internets is that arguing online is a complete waste of time: ppl are bull-headed and will not change their minds, no matter how well-crafted the attempted persuasion or the presentation of facts. So whenever I spot someone using inflammatory or argumentative language, I spend my time doing something else, but responding to the bait ain't gonna be it

I have no idea if this will be helpful or not,but if it were me,I'd check with my local NAPA store and see if they can order them. NAPA is the best place I know of to buy either NOS or equivalent new parts. They won't always have immediate access to the old parts catalogs in this modern age of computers,but my local NAPA has a guy that has been working there for 40+ years,and he doesn't mind digging out the old catalogs from under the counter and looking. They don't always have or can get what I need,but they do fairly often,and it costs you nothing to ask. My suggestion is to walk up to the parts counter in person,approach the oldest person working,and ask him or her directly. That works a lot better than impersonal phone calls to someone that doesn't know you.

I'm going to be about 600 miles from my truck for the next week, so I won't be able to participate on the 'IWOYTD' this year. However I did do something good on Monday. I drove my blue 52 Desoto truck about 60 miles south to visit the original owner (Ernest) for his 100th birthday. He & I share the same birthday, but I'm 50 years younger! He was a little tired on the day so he didn't get to go for a ride around the block this time. He's still 'as sharp as a tack' in the mind, but his body is wearing out. He was my inspiration to keep the restoration of the 'Ernie' truck as original as possible. We did manage to snap a few cool pictures at an old church on the way home. Hope the attached photo inspires others in their MOPAR activities...

Here you go Don.

Courtesy of the San Luis Obispo History Museum... The Blackstone Hotel was vacant for nearly 50 years and finally received a structural retrofit and remodel last year. It is now Cal Poly student housing (for preferred students I guess).

Chrysler had an assembly plant in Kew starting at least in the early 1930s and quite a few cars and trucks were assembled/built there. Since the original poster indicates they are located in the British Isles, it seems that the vehicle originated there and was not imported (even if most of the pieces were imported from North America). In the early 1930s the vehicles were shipped from North America "completely knocked down" with all the bits and pieces needed except interiors which locally sourced and fitted. Also locally sourced and fitted were things standard or required in the UK that were not used in the US like front fender/wing mounted parking lights. For 1933, the Chrysler Kew 6 (know in the US as a Plymouth) came with a small bore version of the US engine. It would not surprise me if they used the 25" Canadian engines once the Windsor plant for building them came on line as there seemed to be a import/tax savings on "Empire Built" items. I don't know if they eventually had their own foundry and manufactured their engines from scratch but it seems unlikely.

O.K, happy to report that "patience" won out and my 1949 Plymouth Suburban station wagon was delivered to my residence Friday, 23 September. Just about 2 months since I started this post. I had the car towed from the seller's residence since the car carriers couldn't get back to the car to load it. The tow company had a secured yard where the car was stored until the car carrier could come and pick it up. Was picked up in southern California on Tuesday and delivered to me in eastern Pennsylvania on Friday. Happy, Happy. Thanks to everyone for your insight on towing but I'm glad a round trip to California and back could be avoided. Regards to all.

My 50 Plymouth came with a non-functioning fuel gauge so I grounded the wire and suddenly a full tank! Wonderful, the wiring is OK, so I move on to the sender, pull it out, hook it up and ground it and I can make the gauge move, another victory. Clearly the cork float is saturated and not floating anymore so a quick trip to the hardware store and I'm back with 3 corks.I drill a hole in them, slip them on the shaft and am able to verify that everything in fact works but I know the bare corks will sink quickly, so I move on to try to find a float. I saw quite a few people using a Ford float that requires that you bend a curl into the arm, I have several FIAT senders with a similar float but I don't really want to start doing a bunch of bending so next stop EBAY. I found item 111991366217, SCOOTER FUEL GAS FLOAT TANK SENSOR SENDING UNIT ROKETA SUNL JONWAY LONGBO SHENKE for sale by a number of sellers, cheapest one was $8 shipped so I ordered one. It arrived yesterday, I clipped the end of the arm off, slid the float off, slid it on to the Plymouth's sender and it works perfect! It is your typical modern foam float, so I know it will eventually sink, but I expect it will take years. Overall a great substitution for a minimal price and virtually no fab work, just bend the very end of the Plymouth senders arm, slip off the old float, slip on the new and bend the end back up 90 degrees. I don't know how many years this would cover but I expect it would be useful for just about any of the Mopars that this forum deals with. Hope this will help somebody else out there, I'm sure there are a number of saturated corks within the membership.

When you're done using the blow gun and vac, go over it again using a paint gun, empty using the same patterns you would use if actually painting it. A paint gun will move dirt and debris differently than a blow gun does and if there is any debris while painting, it will surely blow it into fresh, wet paint. Just passing on a lesson learned.

When does the madness stop? Do you REALLY want it to stop?

Well the learning curve was pretty steep today. The front suspension is complete so I moved on to dismantling and cleaning the motor. I took lots of pictures for future reference to ease the reassembly, all was going good until it came time to remove the intake and exhaust manifolds. I got all the bolts out without breaking them execpt one exhaust stud. I worked and worked to remove the manifold assembly but couldn't due to the 2 exhaust bolts that go through the manifold being rusted in. So I tried penatrating oil and heat, and still no luck, that's when I found the bolt I missed removing that holds the center intake port. It came off pretty easily after I removed it.