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You have to remember the old old timers who really know these cars are naturally cranky and should be given some leeway...

When it comes to the information on the internet, I have learned to take it all with a grain of salt. Basic information can be erroneous, mix in some opinions and then comes the conflicts. I have recently dealt with Echo, Stihl, Subaru, John Deere and New Holland parts guys working on several pieces of not-new equipment and confusion led to exasperation with them because what I needed did not match their catalogs...I had to rely on my diplomacy skills to keep them motivated to help me out because they wanted to throw their hands up and walk away, and eventually we determined that in each case there were errors in their online catalogs that we were able to correct on our end to get the right parts to get this equipment back in the field. These parts guys are just like most mechanics in that they are helpful up to a point, then their less-than-outgoing personalities begin to re-emerge and they start to shut down in some form of frustration. They aren't bad ppl, but most guys fall into this category in that continued questioning is an implied second-guessing of abilities that can be insulting to one's machismo. Some things just are not up for debate, it either works or does not work...that sort of thing. One of the most important things I have learned from using the internets is that arguing online is a complete waste of time: ppl are bull-headed and will not change their minds, no matter how well-crafted the attempted persuasion or the presentation of facts. So whenever I spot someone using inflammatory or argumentative language, I spend my time doing something else, but responding to the bait ain't gonna be it

crap, I'm out!!!! I thought it was "work IN your truck day"!

few welding rods later......still have a couple more smaller sections to work issues with.... pic no longer hosted

{Group Hug}

Leo has informed me he wants the truck to be done by the time he's my age. Whew no pressure that gives me 32 years to finish it! He also named it turkey truck. Didn't have a name yet so I guess turkey it is!

Pictures before and after, Sunshine bright but you see the lights are on at both Tail Lights and the Trunk Light

Finished up in my friend's shop today. Re-torqued the head, zip-tied some wires, tightened the carb hold-down nuts again, topped off the anti-freeze, put the hood on, cleaned up my friend's shop, loaded all of my tools and parts and headed home! 50 mile trip home, so I got to test it out really good. No problems. When I got home I changed the oil and filter, which is what my rebuilder said to do. It was fairly dirty. I replaced the SAE-30 non-detergent with Castrol GTX 10w-30. Should be fine. I know there's a ton of other options. Here comes the pics:

Earlier, I made an Opinion/Editorial regarding this subject, wherein I commend the Webmaster for his unenviable position. Well, the same sentiment applies to the moderators. Sorry for my inadvertent omission of them. Thank you for doing a difficult task with little/no acknowledgement/appreciation. And, again, I’ll stop right here.

If any of you feel this way please contact me directly at p15-d24.com and include the name of those involved.

An excessive ego isn’t necessarily a bad thing. I knew a surgeon who had an ego that would barely fit into the hospital, much less a single room. He wouldn’t settle for anything less than being the best in his specialty. And, you know what? That’s just the kind of surgeon you want if you’re going “under the knife”, or a loved one of yours. We all want “The best”!!! So, there are situations/places where extreme egos are preferred, but this site isn’t one of them. I, too, don’t make comments nearly as much as I used to. Ever since I was accused (falsely, I might add) of proffering misinformation (and I still have the same response to that accusation: “I didn’t write the damn book. I merely quoted information out of it. If [sic] an individual has an issue with the accuracy of the information, complain to the author . . .”). Were my feelings hurt? NO, not hardly—I just took into consideration the toxicity of the source of the comments, blocked the individual, so in essence—he no longer exists, and that was that. And, I’m still doing things to our car, but like BobK, I’m not telling anyone about anything anymore, which equals no more toxic reactions. I’m a “work in progress”, transitioning from a semi-active commentator to a browser/reader, and rather-rarely commentator. Best regards to all . . .

I went to look at this 1938 Dodge D10 today and had her trailered home. The Canadian shorter equivelent of the US D8, I believe (a Plymouth in Dodge clothing). For a Canadian made car it is suprisingly rust free. It has the long block P25 recently rebuilt, frame off restoration, 12 volt system, radials and a 2.92 rear end. Hopefully she will be a fun old car.

how about the block of wood trick . small block of wood or a large socket put near the lower hing than slowly close the door on the block of wood go easy this is some thing that you take slow old body shop trick

An old wife's tale that people get grumpier as they age. We just have had our fill of BS and stupidity and no longer care to engage the filter between our brain and our mouth. lol

AHHHHH, you messed it up and made it perfect .

Don't get too comfy with that completion schedule - here are two pictures of my son in front of my '66 Satellite project!

Maybe the shackle broke at one time allowing the spring to wear into the mount. To repair it they use a Jeep shackle, which is shorter, and this lead to your latest Dolly Dodge adventure.

You need to disassemble the spring pack to determine if any of the leaves are cracked. That generally happens at or near the point they bolt together over the axle. Perhaps there is a broken leaf sandwiched within the others and it may function satisfactorily but the strength of the spring would be compromised. Your truck will actually sit higher with the new spring eye configuration.

I think this site basically does a good job. Why don't you guys put on your big boy pants and get over it

Jon: I have been collecting automotive catalogs for the past 30 years to help with the restoration of my 39 Desoto. Some of my catalogs go back to the 1910 area and upto 1960. These are a great learning opportunity to know what components will work on my car and other owners cars and or trucks. I am in the process of trying to get a Wolert catalog. This company did a lot of OEM replacement parts for our cars and this one will go back into the 1930's. Thanks for the posting on the forum. If you would like a listing of my various catalogs send me your home email and I will send you a list. I have scanned these onto cds so the paper is not getting used. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com cell 484-431-8157 Live near valley Forge Pa

We put the fun in dysfunction. Once in a while it mirrors Hatfields and McCoys...

Reg, it wasn't a matter of wanting it to ride higher, but that the driver side was 2 inches lower than the passenger side, folks always told me it was that the driver spring was worn out. But what it was instead was a short shackle on the rear of the driver side.. I also noticed tonight looking at the rear driver side spring hanger that it as a lot of wear on it from a spring rubbing, will post photo tomorrow.. I don't expect they will take the springs back either.. I will try and sell them or make wall hangers out of them, expensive mistake.

Looks like a head rest to me.

We tore into the engine and so far we're pleased with what we've found! The only damage so far seems to be to the rod bearings for the number 3 and 6 Pistons. The timing chain appears to be new as well as the timing gear. More to follow.

I made a post on Jalopy Journal, this is what they said. Just gave me more confidence in this site. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/41-plymouth-upper-control-arm-pin.1061434/

No way anyone could wipe the smile off my face! I love driving the Meadowbrook

My family and I at Subway for dinner. Lots of people looked at my car....

Glad to see everyone is having fun. I made my 52 Fargo work instead of me. Loaded up a winter's accumulation of garbage and headed for the dump. Passed the 1000 mile mark since total restoration and loving it more and more.

POR15 and I do shake hands now and then...mainly I use it in the tube, it is then listed as a patch/seam sealer agent,...it does a good job sealing cracks and such that you would find at some body joints and along old drip rail. Even with that I probably do overkill on prep before using it. I am not ever going to knock or discount the product....it does in my belief get overused too often is all. You read so many entries and so many different forum, some doing what they call HIGH END work that suggest a layer of POR15 on a floor or trunk panel that is ridden with rust holes, a layer of fiberglass followed by another quick coat of POR15 as a permanent patch and substitute for metal. It is tough stuff, I just of not think that is the intended end use of the product...but then that is just my reserved opinion.

Dale, While I think I have an idea where you’re coming from, with all due respect, I’m afraid I’ll have to disagree with you on that. Being old doesn’t give one license to be obnoxious. Civility should know no age limits. Thx.

FEF's is unpainted...what you see in natural patina!

I believe the install height has to do with when the spring is seated against the block and valve keeper lock disk with the keepers in place and with the valve seated in the block, which sounds like the 1-3/8" dimension. And I agree, new battery cables yield surprisingly good results after dealing with the headache of high impedance batt.cables

My opinion is that carbs were unpainted from the factory as it was not needed since the carbs were made of an alloy that did not oxidize like the cast iron adapters they bolted to on cast iron manifolds. These alloys varied depending on model and year I suppose, with varying alloys of aluminum and zinc. If you look in the fuel chamber and down the throat, you will probably see the original metal color, with greys having higher aluminum content and yellers having more zinc content. Since practically all carbs of this era seeped a little, the metal stained over time to vary the exterior finish hues. But the carb bodies are metal nonetheless, so an adequate (etching) primer coat with any top coat should yield decent aesthetic attributes

Time to go to Key West.

Making a old school looking fuel pressue gauge mount bracket for my 52 dodge PU...... nbeed to paint it and get it mounted next week....

I still really enjoy the forum. I go to the car, truck, and OT forums just about every day. I still post a fair amount. I don't care what anyone thinks of me or my posts. If positive that is nice. If negative so be it. Like water off a duck. Can't let other people affect what you think, post, the questions you ask, or how you work on your car. I've had run-ins with members, usually handled through PM's, that I get on with very well now. I have received a lot of help from this forum and its members and hopefully helped a few others myself. This is a wonderful forum so let's keep it that way!!

Just realized I never posted pictures here.

47 Dodge 1/2 ton project. Slightly outdated photos but since this is a performance thread I figured it was better to post the engine vs the exterior. Plan is to get it running with 12v conversion, 5 speed, and slant 6 dist. Hopefully that'll be done this summer. Then next summer dual exhaust with either dual 1 barrels or a 2 barrel.

Your going to need more help, I'll be over as soon as I can. Lol

It's just marking it's territory. I used a 'Chore Boy' copper mesh as a muffler packing on my old BSA when I was a kid. That might be a cheap, readily available alternative for a screen. (It lasted long enough for me to take my road test at the DMV. I blew it out on the ride home.)

Forgot the final pictures of the install....many thanks to my better half for the assist....lol 48D

Took FEF out for my car/truck club's "Mystery Run". Put about 100 miles on him. Oddly stalled out 2 times at an intersection and the starter would not turn over. Waited embarrassed as all heck and after 2 minutes or so a weak turn over got him running again. Stopping and turning him off the starter fires off just fine...wth?

Wow, what a day in Clements!!! My wife is an inspiration, she is never to proud to try something new. Today on "INTERNATIONL WORK ON YOUR TRUCK DAY", she jumped in and helped me hang the bumper on "THE BRICK". Damn, what a woman! Charged the 1949 COE's battery steering wheel installed on B1BQ (finally) Rear bumper on the The Brick aka Wedding Truck 48 "lucky" D

Thanks!

Got a head start last evening...

A True redneck would just cut a hole in the hood to clear the second battery and show off is inventive work to his friends! DJ

I remember that, very cool to watch you start your truck

I do have 2 Plodges my '38 D10 and my survivor '49 D32. I must say I do love my US '41 C28.

here's mine.....a 50 Plymouth Suburban 2 dr. wagon..........I know there are many purists on this site and I am grateful to every one of them who helped me with answers over the years. But my wagon has had some changes. It has an independent rear with a tubular A-arm front w/mustang 2 dropped spindles.It has also been chopped 4 inches. And a 360LA motor w/727 trans

set the hood..align the body around this..this is the single largest part of the vehicle that will define the body in the front ia all aspects, left, right and often on and down to the actual curve of the hood as it meets the curve of the cab at the cowl..aligning the fenders and such it totally possible by height, and left to right shift of the radiator support..using antiquesk pads and shims as necessary..