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Making a old school looking fuel pressue gauge mount bracket for my 52 dodge PU...... nbeed to paint it and get it mounted next week....

crap, I'm out!!!! I thought it was "work IN your truck day"!

I still really enjoy the forum. I go to the car, truck, and OT forums just about every day. I still post a fair amount. I don't care what anyone thinks of me or my posts. If positive that is nice. If negative so be it. Like water off a duck. Can't let other people affect what you think, post, the questions you ask, or how you work on your car. I've had run-ins with members, usually handled through PM's, that I get on with very well now. I have received a lot of help from this forum and its members and hopefully helped a few others myself. This is a wonderful forum so let's keep it that way!!

Worked on mine to finally get that 150 mile test run in. Passed.

Construction done. Roll up doors coming on Friday, followed by lift and electricity later this month.

Got this photo of a factory 230 on the Allpar site.

I got the old springs off, and they came out easily. All the bushings, nuts, everything came out easy. when I looked closely at the ST. Louis Springs I saw they were a bit different. My old springs the rear lope is toward the ground (front one up, rear one down). The SLS both loops are up. I sent them next to each other and they are the same height (SLS are about 3/16 lower, but with the design differences there is less arch in the SLS. I decided to clean up the old ones and put them back, both the old ones have the same arch. They seem in fine shape. There was no wear at all in any of the old bushings, the front pin is like new. I was surprised how good of shape everything was. In any event I will put the SLS for sale on the for sale section. A couple pictures, one of the old springs after cleaning the mud and rust of, then one of them after POR 15 and chassis black paint.. They look like new.

Welcome to an excellent Forum, and to the old car hobby. You'll get all the info you need here, and then some. The most valuable resource you need for working on these old cars is...patience. Everything else comes along as long as you have that. You've got good car to start with. I would echo previous responses about the wiring, if your car's wiring is universally bad, I think it would be more prudent to get an entire wiring harness, several companies make then. Check the resources section of this site. As long as you can follow directions and have no compunction against asking questions, it will not be that difficult. Personally, the added cost of a complete harness is worth it if you are completely rewiring the car.

Hi Gnomeworks, Welcome to the forum and the hobby. Below is from a document on wire and fuse sizes I used to rewire my '38 truck. Hopefully it copied and pasted okay. Pete Guide to Wire and Fuses Wire Size vs. Amperage Applications of Wire Plug-in Fuses Fuse Listing Guide Ford flathead hotrod street rod hot rod chrome restore car classic vintage antique Ford flathead hotrod street rod hot rod chrome restore car classic vintage antique Wire Size vs. Amperage Wire Size: 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 Amperage: 35 25 20 15 7 5 3 Ford flathead hotrod street rod hot rod chrome restore car classic vintage antique Ford flathead hotrod street rod hot rod chrome restore car classic vintage antique Applications of Wire Wire Size 6-Volt Wire Size 12-Volt Item 8 10 Amp meter gauge 8 10 Alternator or generator and regulator large terminals 12 14 Electric fuel pump 12 14 Alternator or generator and regulator small terminals 14 16 Gauges, fuel, oil, temperature 14 16 Ignition, distributor, coil 14 16 Directional signals, parking and tail lights, and radio 12 14 Headlights Ford flathead hotrod street rod hot rod chrome restore car classic vintage antique Ford flathead hotrod street rod hot rod chrome restore car classic vintage antique Plug-in Fuses (Type ATO) Amperage: 3 5 7-12 10 15 20 25 30 Color: Violet Tan Brown Red Lt. Blue Yellow Natural Lt. Green Ford flathead hotrod street rod hot rod chrome restore car classic vintage antique Ford flathead hotrod street rod hot rod chrome restore car classic vintage antique Fuse Listing Guide Use: Radio Lighter Stop Lights Gauges Overdrive Heater Tail/Parking Interior Lighting Wipers Accessory Amperage: 5 20 20 5 30 20 20 20 20 20

I've had a few responses to some of my posts that I'd really like to give the first comeback that comes to my mind. But, most of the time I just ignore them. Arguments have never changed anyone's mind about anything. People believe what they believe and treat it like it's written in stone. I could care less what someone thinks about what I post. Some say it comes with age but, I've been that way all my life. Someone pushing their ideas/thoughts/ways onto others really ticks me off so to keep it cool I keep my mouth shut.

That's pretty funny Brent.....ha ha ha ! I got trapped in the back of a 35 CW Airflow.... tried to get through the filler hole

Up on the hoist. I taught my son how to run it; he loved that!

Worked on the car this afternoon. Put on a new carb to intake gasket (stopped that whistling), filled the tranny with gear lube (I had lost some when I left it upside down one night after cleaning it ), checked the anti-freeze level, put 2 clamps on the exhaust (it'll do for now, but I'll be getting a whole new exhaust system within a couple of weeks), reseated those leaky oil lines and tightened them, and took it for a ride (about 25 miles). Put some fresh gas in it as well. Let me say, it has really nice power compared to before. Winds up nicely and without any effort I was up to 50mph. I did vary my speeds throughout the trip. I went hoodless . As usual, some dude at the gas station asked me about the car. I let him know what year, and that I had just rebuilt the engine. He wished me luck. Tomorrow I will go back to my friend's shop and torque the head bolts, check the antifreeze again since I ran the heater, put the hood on, and there's a few more minor things I have to check. I will likely drive it home! Can't wait. Here's some pics from today. First one is me

I too am disappointed. This site used to be a p15-d24 site, with a slight extension into Chrysler, Desoto, Dodge and other generations of Plymouth product. Now I am as likely to open a thread and see a Chevy Pickup or an argument why a part from an Ford or Chevy is a solution and defenders of Mopar 1st solutions are some how seen as bad guys. Here is my question - What would Walter Chrysler say ? No response required folks!

Wow, what a day in Clements!!! My wife is an inspiration, she is never to proud to try something new. Today on "INTERNATIONL WORK ON YOUR TRUCK DAY", she jumped in and helped me hang the bumper on "THE BRICK". Damn, what a woman! Charged the 1949 COE's battery steering wheel installed on B1BQ (finally) Rear bumper on the The Brick aka Wedding Truck 48 "lucky" D

Oh yeah?

I used the fatman dropped uprights and their shock relocation kit (they have a recommended shock) you'll have to weld the brace to the frame fatman recommends using disc brakes when you use their upright but you can make it work with the drum brakes. I also used detroit eaton lower springs on the front and their lowering rear leaf springs . turned out nice

This car is a 1957 Dad bought it in 1962, he can't drive it anymore and they want to move into an apartment, so I wound up with it.

Or if you explain the non-stock shackle to them , they might be nice and allow you to return the new springs . It doesn't hurt to ask .

You have to remember the old old timers who really know these cars are naturally cranky and should be given some leeway...

I removed only the ultimate results of PATINA left in place....as should anyone who is working a panel......lol if anyone is interested, the removed patina can be yours just for the cost of shipping....

Hire a couple of hot chicks it skimpy bikinis to drive ya around with several for sale signs on it. I promise guys will stop and ask about the car and hey, if no one buys you've still had a great time.

Oh no! You've removed all your patina!

Did you contact them regarding the differences with the eyes? Maybe you can you can return them as Wrong Parts / Unacceptable.

What's that! A Furd in the background? Must be the neighbor's, right? Say it's the neighbor's...

This is the slab in place and the materials on site.

Spent the weekend putting a little time into my new shed (The Dodge Mahal) and the rest doing all sorts of "honey-do's" to keep my wife happy after she allowed me to spend so much on my hobby. So much fun running the chainsaw and cutting down dead trees in 90 degree weather. This photo is a friend of mine clearing the area behind my existing shed (Ft. Dodge) to make way for the Dodge Mahal. The new shed is 30' x 30', with a 14' floor to ceiling clearance for the soon to be added 2-post lift. It has two 10' x 10' doors on one side and one on the other. The lift will be in line with the 2 doors, and that will line up with the door on Ft. Dodge. That will allow me to drive, or push, or tow, a vehicle from one shed to the other. On the side, there is a 20' x 30' carport to park tractor and other vehicles under. Couple more photos coming.

If any of you feel this way please contact me directly at p15-d24.com and include the name of those involved.

Today I removed the oil pan to swap it for the front sump pan. Dropped the rear main cap to remove the drain back valve assembly. Worked on cleaning the pan and the water manifolds while waiting on gaskets to put the rest of the engine back together.

47 Dodge 1/2 ton project. Slightly outdated photos but since this is a performance thread I figured it was better to post the engine vs the exterior. Plan is to get it running with 12v conversion, 5 speed, and slant 6 dist. Hopefully that'll be done this summer. Then next summer dual exhaust with either dual 1 barrels or a 2 barrel.

I would think that any battery box would have to be well vented to get rid of exsplosive gases.

No info has yet been released on the applicability of the transmissions from Tatas, but if it comes it will be bodatious.

I need to make a new box for my c-series but what worked in the meantime was taking some of that perforated metal strapping (I think used for hanging ducts or something?) and pop riveting a few U shaped pieces in to reinforce the swiss cheese OG box.

A dog with only 3 legs walks into the saloon, barks to get everyones attention and then says; 'I'm alookin' fer the fella that shot my paw'.

The shops in my area that cater to bigger trucks can still handle straightening solid axles. My car happens to have a tubular axle and that gave the people at the place I took my car to some qualms but I was willing to accept the risk and they were able to properly straighten the axle (which should be done cold). All in all, it was not a big deal. Too an hour or so and did not cost a lot of money (I don't recall the exact cost and I had it done nearly 20 years ago so no doubt the prices have changed). Getting the axle straightened made a big difference in how the car handled, how much the tires were wearing, and was well worth it.

......all OP posts deleted by Original Poster

Pulled the pan today to swap over to the front sump pan. Also pulled a cap to look at the main bearings and remove the check valve in there. I did notive somebody has been in this engine recently. It has a double roller timing set and adjustable push rods which are definitely not stock and its pretty clean unlike my 270 that was full of sludge.

I guess I am old school I don't mind points I got Alot of new old stock blue streak brand points love that brand got them cheap on ebay awhile back they were for my old amc motor

This is just what we don't want here. I'm always interested in how others 'skin a cat'. It's cool to see how different peoples minds work and come up with solutions, especially in a world where most minds aren't working much if at all. Sorry you feel this way but I can understand.

Here's my Chrysler 354 for my p15 business coupe.

It is Ted's truck. It was fun to have 2 Pilot-House trucks at this little show. And It was very nice to sit and chat with Ted throughout the day.

My 218 bored .040,edgy head polished,offy intake polished , two carters carb, Langdon air cleaners,otb oil filter,coil cover,filler tube and cap,dip stick tube, chrome 6 volt alternator , Langdon manifold exhaust manifolds, dual optima s battery ,lokar carb linkage

Forgot the final pictures of the install....many thanks to my better half for the assist....lol 48D

Here we are... playing with our trucks...

Unfortnately 4 or 5 individuals currently are generating 90-95% of the reported content to the mods. I usually just let them cool down for a day or two but this group keeps going back to old bad habits. I'm pretty patient but if this behavior continues the entire group will get the permanent boot, including accounts deleted and their ip addresses blocked from accessing the site. It takes two to tango ( or in this case 4-5) and we are about at the end of the dance. You know who you are and take this as your last and only warning.

I'm going to be about 600 miles from my truck for the next week, so I won't be able to participate on the 'IWOYTD' this year. However I did do something good on Monday. I drove my blue 52 Desoto truck about 60 miles south to visit the original owner (Ernest) for his 100th birthday. He & I share the same birthday, but I'm 50 years younger! He was a little tired on the day so he didn't get to go for a ride around the block this time. He's still 'as sharp as a tack' in the mind, but his body is wearing out. He was my inspiration to keep the restoration of the 'Ernie' truck as original as possible. We did manage to snap a few cool pictures at an old church on the way home. Hope the attached photo inspires others in their MOPAR activities...