Leaderboard

For you British car nuts....

On my way home from AZ with Spring Special #3. So far, I know of 7 intact Spring Specials. I restored in California, I in Texas, 2 in Kansas, and three now in Colorado. Anyone know of any others? Please call, text, or email. Thank you. Tom Anderson, Paonia CO, 970-986-1020, vikingminer49er@gmail.com

FWIW my old school engine guy always has us use non detergent straight 30 for the first run. After a few 100 miles change to whatever we want.

Now you can consider "breaking in" your new engine. An old-timer once told me ,"Machinery has a long memory for abuse." There is lots of good advice on breaking in a newly rebuilt engine. I have boiled it down to a few simple maxims. ---set the idle speed up a bit and avoid long periods of idling ---- drive normally but avoid higher speeds for sustained periods of time ----vary the throttle position and take advantage of deceleration as this will pull oil up into the cylinders ( a good thing) ----after initial warm up and again after 500 miles, retighten the cylinder head Change oil after about 500 miles and since your engine is as clean as it ever will be, use a good detergent oil I use 15/40 designed for diesels but there is lots of discussion around this. It boils down to "use good oil and keep it clean. Knuckle Harley has it right. It is now YOUR car. enjoy it.

Waste- not- want- not

Best answer would be found by contacting them.

I did not pressurize the system as such. In addition to assembly lubrication I used very thick STP on all the bearing inserts during the install. I then (with the spark plugs removed) spun the engine with the starter motor while the engine was still on the bench until I got good oil pressure. I also did a compression test to insure all cylinders were good.

Patrick, I know that you are in Belgium and hope you can get something local or the USA if need be but here in Australia a very common replacement carburettor for all of the mopar single barrel carbys is the single barrel Bendix Stromberg carby that was used on Australian Holden 6 cylinder cars from 1964 to the late 70's, the ideal one is from whats known as the Holden "Red" engine from 179/186 & 202 cubic inch capacity, this carby bolts straight onto the mopar intake and the accelerator linkage is similar.........these carbys are a later design then the mopar Carters and might be worth thinking about......I don't have any at present but was going to use a pair on an Offy twin carb intake on a 230 engine I was building up and I also had one on the original 1941 Plymouth engine.........have attached 2 pics.......these carbys are still common on Australian ebay if that helps.............and rebuild kits also common............let me know if you want me to keep a lookout for one........good luck with the Carter.....Andy Douglas

Pleased to hear that this possible swap is still in train............am looking forward to see whether its possible as I've wondered whether these type of swaps are possible.........am not surprised that the Hollander interchange book doesn't have this type of info as it seems to be a left field type of idea that the interchange books wouldn't have had to consider back then.........BTW...whos the dummy?......ME!!!.......guess what I remembered I had..........I just went & checked my 1950-1965 Chrysler Products Interchange Manual by Auto Interchange Systems dated 1965 and 1979 and while it doesn't have pre 1950 stuff listed and that's why I didn't check with it previously..........BUT I should have........it lists the SAME UPPER Control ARM PART for the 1951-54 Chrysler Sedans, coupes & converts BUT NOT wagons as that for 1951-54 DeSotos, 51-54 Dodge AND 51-54 Plymouth and I know for certain that 41-54 Plymouth upper A arms are the same part so I think that you maybe in luck..........lol.....lower arms for Chrysler, Desoto and Dodge cars, not wagons 1951-54 are listed as an interchange but NOT 49-52 Plymouth which seems an odd listing, later Plymouth lower arms aren't listed.........I wouldn't be surprised IF the actual Plymouth lower arms bolted on but had different sway bar and or shock mounting points which resulted in this listing variation.......anyway I had forgotten that I had this interchange manual so if you need anything checked let me know....this manual also lists PART NUMBERS as well........lol..........this was a 180 page book that a mate had 30 yrs ago and let me photocopy.........lol............regards, Andy Douglas

Didn't mean to scare you but now you know about that oiler tube! Ha Ha! Good to know it's installed.

Noted....thanks man

Eureka! Kept prying from the bottom but just wasn't enough pressure, managed to hammer a long-handled flathead screwdriver in-between the latch and the door panel from the top, this put enough pressure to get the screws to "catch" so I could back them out. It was an awesome moment . . . but now I'm having trouble getting the door lock cylinder out. The set screw is a small allen head I think but rusted pretty solid. Soaked it in some PB I may give it another try here in a few hours. FYI, these blunt syringes work great for dispensing controlled amounts of PBlaster or any other penetrating lubricant, really helps sometimes squirting into those nooks and crannies

Remember the old phrase:" Some days you get the bear, some days the bear gets you". Don't let yourself get confused what day it is.

I'm not sure anything beats the old fashioned way, but that said it is better to have someone inside pumping that knows when the pedal "feels good". My wife helps me with this job a lot...another 20 years and she might actually know what I mean when I ask "how's it feel?" LoL

Following along with your rebuild is helping to teach me what to expect if I do a complete rebuild of the '49s engine. This is really fun to watch it all come together.

Ill donate my full set of nearly new cylinders front and back for the cost of shipping to the first member who contacts me. They are doing nothing out in the shed...

The chain oil tube is visible in this photo.

It's always good to have a "little skin" in rebuilds. Makes the whole driving experience more personal and IMHO adds immensely to the enjoyment you will get driving the car. It won't be "just a car" anymore when you put it back on the road. It will be YOUR car.. This may sound silly to you,but trust me,you will understand it the first drive you take.

Is the little oiling tube installed that's quirts oil on the timing chain? It's between the cam and crankshaft gears. Wouldn't be good if it was missing!!

Here's Old Yeller with a truck in the bed 1998. Old yeller hauling urban firewood from a job site 2003. And Old Yellers cousin hauling firewood too. Date unknown.

Doesn't exist w/o pictures

just looked in my photo folder and I had taken pics of my procedure...while this may or may not be what you looking for...once covered I do not think anyone but you will be the wiser. the plywood is 1/2 thick yellow foam is of dense variety in 5/16 thick black overlay foam is 1/8 dense and found at arts and craft store... once the wood is cut, glue on the yellow foam flush...then overlay that with the black, next add the outer and inner thin black foam side pieces, they should be just a tad proud of the top of the black flat surface to allow you to carefully sand a slight roll on the edges...cover in the material to match you interior... am sure not the only way but was easy do it at home for myself ...good luck no matter how you proceed. note..first photo could it be a gesture albeit subliminal, to those that naysay my approach.....enjoy....lol truly nothing of the sort was intended here....

tape a thin cardboard between the bolt holes using blue painters tape above the fender line...once the bolts are started and not quite snug..slip out the cardboard as you start snugging up the bolts...be sure your trim if being used is in place also..a cereal box makes good durable protection without being overly thick..

If you also do any shopping on the great Ebay you will see vendors that have a huge shipping cost even when an items will fit into a USPS if it fits it ships. I have seen small items that have the $12 shipping fee and I know that it will fit in the smallest box for around the $6 fee. I always question the seller to see if the item can go into the smallest container and use the USPS if it fits it ships. So also figure the money that Ebay takes as their cut and then the %3 that Paypal takes so this is also why some prices are so high. But sometimes you just have to pay if you want to play. Rich Hartung.

Bleed brakes and they are back to factory settings. Crossing fingers that all this stuff that I did the last few days works. Jon

Call me frugal if you like. I have never used a battery tender. But I do have a box full of low voltage DC power supplies for gadgets that I no longer have. The one pictured below has an output of 7 volts @ 250mA. It would work as a battery tender for a 6 volt battery.