Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • adminstrator_p15d24ph

      Two New Clubs Now Available!   09/22/2017

      Check out the Dodge Truck Purists Club for those going the stock route or the Pacific NW MoPAR for those living in the Pacific Northwest!  

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing most liked content on 04/17/2017 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Mortimer452

    Finally cleaned up

    Cooperative weather and an afternoon I had free finally came together this Easter Sunday and got the sedan cleaned up. Plenty of help from all the nieces and nephews over for Easter dinner. Still trying to decide what's original paint and what's been redone on this car. The trunk lid and quarters have some cracking, which is indicative of the original lacquer paint used on these cars, maybe it's original, maybe it was just repainted with lacquer at some point, not sure. There is definitely no clear coat. The only things that make me think it's been repainted are some overspray around the edges of the rear windows, and the VIN plate is painted over on the inside of the driver door. Looked amazing wet, ended up a bit chalky after drying, several weird stains & spots here and there, but should be able to take care of that with some polish and wax. I have a whole shelf full of car care products - Adam's, Meguiars, Knipps, Turtle Wax . . . any recommendations on a good polish/wax for lacquer?
  2. 3 points
    Frank Elder

    Air conditioner choices

    You're ok....I'm ok......I love other opinions almost as much as my own...lol...you haven't wasted anyones time and you contribute all the time. We have learned plenty from you. Sidebar, we don't seem to mix it up on here anymore and most everybody gets along so here's my humor for the day.......Rickles style. West coasters are thin skinned and easily offended, Midwesterners are blunt and don't always realize that they come across as bullies, East coast guys don't listen and therefore don't take stuff off the rest of us, Southerners don't have a dawg in this fight they just work on their cars and trucks......and last but not least Canadians are polite to the point of righteousness....lol. The rest of you Euros and Down unders still confuse me........I enjoy you all.
  3. 1 point
    55 Fargo Spitfire

    Brakes Debate Thread

    Hey all, like to start an thread on braking systems, whether you are stock, or more modern drum, or conversions to disc. I often think these Lockheed drum brake systems get a bad rap, and lot of people have no idea how to set them up or deal with them. I am like a lot of other Guys on the HAMB, who like drum brakes, think they wrok great, have there positive and negative aspects, but do not resign to the fact that only disc brake conversions provide a safe and good stopping vehicle. Beginning with a car I used to own, a 47 Chrysler Coupe, had all stock brakes, in fact the fronts were 10 inch, as the backing plates and brake drums etc, came of a 51 Dodge, the back were 11 inch stock drum, single wheel cyls, on the back and the duals up front. At first when I rebuilt the entire brake systems, everything new or rebuilt, drums machined, and the drums needed very little to clean them up, they were well within specs. The brakes once all was together, I adjusted the brakes as per the manual, and proceeded to bleed the brakes, using DOT 5 silicone, once the brakes were all bled, I focused my attention to the brake adjustments and kept an eye out for any leaking parts. For the first 500 miles the brakes were so-so, they needed to wear in and seat, after about 2000 miles and further minor adjustments they were great,. I could put a front seat passenger into the windshield no problems, they stopped the car and worked very well, pedal nice and high and firm. Now onto my 55 Fargo, stock front brakes, singles wheel cyl Lockheed style brakes, and 10 inch rear bendix self energizing modern drum brakes. All new brake lines, hoses components and machined front drums and new rear drums. I opted to use DOT 3 brake fluid this time. Once everything was installed, brakes bled, and the fronts adjusted, they were okay brakes, not super great in the front, again until they had a chance to wqear in and seat, they were not arced for the drums. My front brake shoes were relined locally with a Kevlar based ling a d good quality product. Lockheed front brakes are good, the dual wheel cyls types are better than the singles cyl type in my opinion, for the obvious reasons. The truck locks the brakes up, the truck stays nice and straight on course. Now the disc crowd will no doubt mention the superiority of the modern disc, and the fact they have much less issue with "brake fade", but comparing a well adjusted and peak performing drums brake, might not be no worse than a disc,conversion, I am not talking about super hi-perf disc brakes with 4 piston calipers. I am not bringing into the thread a discussion on single pot MCs versus dual MCs, that is another discussion, dual and separate MCs certainly have their merit, in the old days, some would run dual jelly jar MCs and a linkage to make it all work. So there we have it , I am not the type to think I have to convert to disc, to get decent brakes, nor just because 2 people said it's the only way to go, but again I march to the beat of my own drum. I am very tempted to go my own route and convert my front brakes to more modern bendix type brakes, rather then do the cookie cutter disc brake conversion. Gentlemen Start Your Engines...
  4. 1 point
    59bisquik

    1955 C1B Build Thread

    On the way home, I was tired of crusing at 60 and getting blown off the road by trucks. I decided to pick up the pace a little bit and see what she would do. I was able to hold 70 mph all the way home with no issues. After figuring it out on the calculator, that was around 3180 RPM's for about 3 hours. Temps and all seemed good and she sounded pretty happy. Was nice to keep up with traffic!
  5. 1 point
    dpollo

    Finally cleaned up

    I was called upon to repair the rocker boxes under the doors on a P15. The sill moldings were long gone. Since this was an "economy" repair and knowing that the 42s used a slimline molding, I scavenged a set of box side moldings from an early 70s Ford pickup. A little minor shaping and it looks great. P15 moldings are hard to find and very expensive if undamaged. Ford saved the day. My grand dad bought a car like yours new. A very nice car. Always regretted not being allowed to buy it from his estate. He wanted me to have it but did not put it in writing. Since I was 14 at the time he died, nobody was much interested in what I had to say. His car had logged 55000 miles by the last day he drove it. April 20 1962. Sorry to be so sentimental but a nice P15 does that to me,
  6. 1 point
    T120

    Dodge 1936 Glow box

    This is a photo of the glove box spring in a 37 Chrysler Royal -
  7. 1 point
    RNR1957NYer

    Finally cleaned up

    I love the car!!! I looked for years to find a two door sedan. As for the paint, try "color sanding" the paint with very fine wet sandpaper: 1000 - 1500 - 2000 etc then use a polishing compound. It might seem to be a lot of sanding, but your arms will likely be less fatigued that if you went straight at it with rubbing compound, and if you use super fine paper, you won't burn through the paint like you might with a polisher if not experienced with one (I'm not). This is what I'm doing with my '41, and I am so happy it's black - I can spot in and blend any paint repairs to the older lacquer repaint. I know it's old school tech, but I am using premixed quarts of Duplicolor Black lacquer and clear through a $10 Harbor Freight HVLP gun for full panels (like when I had my hood louvered), or a Preval spray kit for small spot repairs. The nice thing about lacquer is that it's pretty forgiving under "barn job" conditions - if something lands in it when it's wet, sand and polish it out. Enjoy! It looks like you've got a lot of help to give rides too!
  8. 1 point
    wayfarer

    Engine and trany swap

    You will need a new driveshaft along with a new rear axle in order to maintain an e-brake. Your oem setup has the e-brake on the trans. The Explore and Cherokee units are very popular. I will also suggest that you take a bunch of photos of the installed package so that you can sort through the clutch linkage and related mounting issues.
  9. 1 point
    Don Coatney

    Engine and trany swap

    It might. Suggest you do a mock up before installing the engine/bell housing/flywheel in the vehicle. I had to modify my bell housing as pictured below.
  10. 1 point
    I recommend you go ( online) to Mike Hammerberg's collection of Gus Wilson's Model Garage 1925 to1970. There is not much in the way of troubleshooting that is not covered in these very entertaining stories. I have the site on my Favorites List but began reading them in 1960 and was lucky that my dad had kept all his back issues . The very problems you are having have been written about more than once.
  11. 1 point
    dale

    Brakes Debate Thread

    I think these things inhance the driving pleasure. IMO
  12. 1 point
    pflaming

    Brakes Debate Thread

    I'm certain you are aware of the fact that you are eliminating the unique pleasures of an old car driving experience, but that's not a problem with me and your right to do. JMHO
  13. 1 point
    51custom

    Carlisle Chrysler show

    He was the main reason why I was going. I guess it'll just be a family outing then.
  14. 1 point
    dale

    Brakes Debate Thread

    Well i drove my 46 Plymouth on its first run to test the new brakes.. I had installed a Ford rearend with disc brakes and Scarebird disc on the front and then replaced the original master cyl. with a firewall mounted dual master cyl. and vacuum booster. Final verdict... It stops on a dime with a tap of the toe.. Next on to see about power steering.
  15. 1 point
    I'm doing the same dance now finally ... Rebuilt the carburetor for the third time. Replaced ALL the rubber hoses - left the hard lines. Re-routed the hoses so the clutch no longer smashed them. Re-sealed and soldered the tank. Painted that dog green. Replaced the fuel sending unit (twice) and it still doesn't work so put back in the old one. Added a 6volt in-line fuel pump. Fixed in-line air leaks. Ignored the mechanical pump. Drove it around this weekend (video from last week) for a couple hours and nothing leaked, burned, loosened, rattled, burned or other-wise moved out of specification. Very happy camper right now.
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
    Just as KH says on most cars of that era as well as trucks BUT if your 36 is more like the 35s then use your thumbs to unscrew the ring around the button.
  18. 1 point
    DrDoctor

    The Rusty DeSoto Lawn Ornament

    rb1949, Hmmm . . . I note that you also leave the floor jack under the car for added “insurance”. I do the same thing—can’t be too careful. Now, about that “liquid sunshine” . . .
  19. 1 point
    pflaming

    Air conditioner choices

    Note: average daily temp in SAN Diago is around 65 degrees, one of the most consistent temps in USA.
  20. 1 point
    Certainly a good point, but I threw it out there for the people that like the look of a generator over a GM alternator. And desire air conditioning and have to upgrade to 12 volts. It's not my personal preference.... Just trying to be helpful. My car's AC comes on when I roll my windows down. LOL
  21. 1 point
    Frank Elder

    Air conditioner choices

    If I am going to add a glaringly non-stock component to the engine compartment such as an AC compressor, I'm certainly not going to worry about making an alternator look like a generator.....I'll save that money for gas and tires!
  22. 1 point
    59bisquik

    1955 C1B Build Thread

    Few pics of my ride and a few other Dodge trucks from Viva Las Vegas 2017.
  23. 1 point
    BTW,looks like everyone here including me forgot to write the "polarity" word. Pay special attention to it if you ever had to remove and replace a voltage regulator or a generator on a old car. Brand new perfect generators or voltage regulators won't work unless they are polarized. Sometimes these days you will buy a old car or truck with both a new generator and a new voltage regulator that won't keep a battery charged,and this is why. The Motors Auto Repair Manual that you bought recently does an excellent job of explaining the why's and hows of this,and even has excellent photos with arrows to help your understanding. It even explains how with simple words and photos had to clean and file the points in a voltage regulator to get it working,or sometimes,just to adjust it to put out a little more current if it's putting out the minimum and you drive with your headlights on a lot. You DID buy a Motors Manual,right?
  24. 1 point
    One product that I became found of is Deoxit. Whenever I restore an electrical system, I use this product to clean up contact areas. Really helps with light sockets too! I have resolved a lot of gremlins by using this stuff while cleaning up grounds and contacts....
  25. 1 point
    classiccarjack

    Engine and trany swap

    The late flatheads all use the 8 bolt flange. The 4 bolts and 8 bolts will interchange flywheels. I have had to do this both ways to make Transmission combo's work. I often wondered if the 8 bolt was offered do to increased power output on the later engines. The last good example for me, is I swapped a late 230 into a 1949 Power Wagon. The Power Wagon had a 4 bolt flywheel with a 218 in it. I had to reuse the 4 bolt flywheel, and the holes lined up and everything worked out great. It has been 5 years now and the truck is still going strong. For what it is worth, I didn't make this choice, my customer didn't want to buy a 8 bolt flywheel at that time.... But in his defense, it worked! LOL
  26. 1 point
    I’ve seen many variants of washers on electrical connections—flat washers, lock washers, inside star washers, outside star washers, dished washers, pretty much the whole gamut. I’ve read, and was told when I was a youngster (I still remember being a youngster . . .), that one should use only star washers on electrical connections. It doesn’t matter whether they’re inside star, or outside star, washers. The edges of the twisted tabs dig into the terminals at the electrical connections, and ensure you’ll have continuity. I’ve also been told that using a flat washer immediately below the nut/bolt (between the nut/bolt and the star washer), is a good idea, as the star washer could deform under the pressure exerted by the nut/bolt. I’ve been doing this for years (more than I’m ready to admit at present . . .), and have found it to work very well.
  27. 1 point
    Chances are good you just need brushes, maybe $5. Get a set, some fine sandpaper to clean the armature and you are most likely off and running. Or, find an auto electrical shop and have them go through it. Not many around, but they still exist. Ask a farmer where they take theirs. Buying a rebuilt one is expensive and a real crap shoot whether you'll get one that will last. If you can even find one. Post where you are in Colorado and there's a chance someone can point you to a local electrical shop.
  28. 1 point
    Don't waste your money. It might not even be the generator. It might be the voltage regulator. They have points and are adjustable,and on old ones it is not unheard of for the points to stick and need filing and adjusting. You do the filing with a non-metal fingernail file. And if it is the generator,they are falling off a log easy to rebuild since most of the time all they need is new brushings,bushings,and cleaning. Do NOT take it off until after you are certain it is the generator and not the voltage regulator at fault,and after you have cleaned the points and adjusted the contact arms in your voltage regulator first. I should have told you this earlier. The very next things you need to buy is a Motors Auto Repair Manual that covers the year of your car from some source like amazon,ebay,or abesbooks.com. It will tell you everything you need to know about generators and voltage regulators,and give you good photos to look at while splain-in them to you. The second thing you need to buy is a original or reproduction parts manual and factory service manual for your car. Between these books most of your questions now and in the future will be answered.
  29. 1 point
    Yes. Start it up,and with it idling,take a battery cable off. If it keeps running,the generator is charging.
  30. 1 point
    For some odd reason,the older you get,the better they seem to work. Especially in the daytime.
  31. 1 point
    Another easy way to check for spark is to buy a spark checker (not sure of proper name). This has a bulb and and is designed to take a plug wire at one end and to fit the plug at the other. The bulb lights up every time the plug gets spark. No light , no spark. You can run the car with it on which is kind of cool to watch, especially at night. They are quite cheap and a nice addition to your tool collection.
  32. 1 point
    You need to determine if you have a spark or a fuel issue. A squirt of starting fluid in the carb will tell you one way or the other. If it dont try to fire with ether, you have no spark. If it does fire or at least tries with ether, then you have a carb/fuel issue. It kinda sounds like spark to me with what I have read. Checking for spark at the plugs as another poster described above is a good place to start. I recently worked on a 1967 international no start. There was no spark at the plugs, but could see a spark at the points. I replaced the cap, rotor, points, condenser. It tried to start once and then again, same issue. No spark at plugs but points had spark. I was told from others on another forum to try the condenser. I went out to the engine room and grabbed a 20 year old condenser and installed it and it fired right off. The quality of these points and condensers you get now days is terrible. Points wear quickly and your lucky to get a working condenser out of the box. The 345 international engine had less then 3k miles on a complete rebuild and new tune up done at that time. The condenser was bad and created hard start issues from the beginning, then it failed completely, then the new replacement was bad, and a 20 year old condenser works great at this time. I am told that the motor starts and runs better then it ever has before, with the old parts installed. Reading stories around the rat hole, people generally have no issue running a points ignition. With the crappy quality of available parts today, they kinda lean to switching to electronic ignition to avoid the quality issues. I am leaning this way myself. Just saying, I already suspect your condenser is bad just because.
  33. 1 point
    I think the first thing I would do if it were me would be to remove all the battery cables and all the ground wires as well as the hot wires going and from the engine 1 by 1,and clean each one as well as the surface it mounts to in order to make sure there is a clean,solid connection. As you clean each,re-install it before moving on to the next one. This includes the wires going to and inside the distributor,and the wires to the coils on both ends. Take note how the wires to the coil are hooked up to make sure someone that didn't know about positive ground systems didn't reverse them while getting the car ready to sell. It should go without saying that you should remove the positive battery cable from the battery to avoid sparks while doing all this,and not connecting it again until you are done. Intermittent starting problems are usually related to bad grounds. As you get to each connection to clean it,try to wiggle it a little to see if it is loose. If it is,chances are that is the culprit,but clean and tighten them all anyhow. While doing this made sure you don't neglect cleaning the bottoms of the nuts and both sides of the washers. In some cases it may be best to just replace them with new ones,but that's up to you and how much time you want to spend doing this. Something like a can of spray carb cleaner can be a big help washing away any accumulated oil and grease from the top/outside of all connections before removing them. Cleaning the whole area free of grease and oil before reconnecting them can be a big help to reduce the chances of this happening again. If after doing all this you still have the same problem,start going down the list given by others.
  34. 1 point
    Don Coatney

    Brakes Debate Thread

    Here is my take on this subject. Years ago my parents had a 1961 Buick and I had a brand new 1971 Duster both cars had drum brakes. One day while driving my parents car I had to attempt to lock the brakes up at around 60 MPH. The tires squealed for about a half second then the brakes faded due to heat and no matter how hard I smashed the pedal I lost all braking ability. I was able to pull a Dale Earnhardt maneuver and avoid a crash. One day in the Duster I had to lock up the brakes at around 75 MPH. All 4 wheels locked and the car was all over the road but I was able to pull a Richard Petty maneuver and avoided a crash. Both of these incidents happened in a small goat sized town in Ohio much smaller than the cow town of Fort Wayne, Indiana. My point being that drum brakes can work and lock up the wheels but brake fade can be a problem. On my P-15 I found a disc brake conversion cost about the same as a complete drum brake rebuild but the advantage of disc brakes is replacement parts are available at any auto parts store. The conversion was very easy and the stopping power is far superior. I have had to make a few quick stops in my P-15 with the disc brakes and I am able to control the lock up with pedal pressure and keep the car in a straight line. All parts required for the disc brake conversion. Grand total around five hundred US cow town bucks.
  35. 1 point
    John-T-53

    Lets see pic of your trucks

    How many truckloads of ice blocks did it take to cover that lake?
  36. 1 point
    Replace the brake lines and replace the brake hoses. Cheap insurance. For a new brake line,but to your nearest NAPA or other reputable auto parts store and tell them you want the copper/nickel brake line you can bend with your hand without kinking it. IIRC,I paid $26 for a 25 foot long roll of it when I did the brakes on my 51. Unlike plain steel,it won't rust on the inside or the outside,and you won't have to worry about having brake lines that are deeply pitted inside where you can't see the pits.
  37. 1 point
    Andydodge

    Intake manifold "leans"

    Maybe the extra lean towards the front means that this manifold is a special early Nascar part, gets more weight over the front axle to assist with turn in..........oops..........forgot my meds this morning.............lol............back in my corner I go...........andyd
  38. 1 point
    DonaldSmith

    '49 Chrys Horn - Horn Ring

    Hold up a sign that says "Honk!"? The spokes of the horn ring fit in recesses in the spokes of the steering wheel. The ring can't go on backwards, and you would know if there were obstructions in the rocking motion. Triple Hmmm.
  39. 1 point
    Howdy - via email to fargopickupking@yahoo.com which is me tim kingsbury or by calling George Asche Jr 814-354-2621 or you can also get me via my cell at 519-766-5695.. whatever works best for you ! Tim
  40. 1 point
    Howdy Folks - The new intake is coming... honest..The pattern was completed late in February, and was sent over to be cast. A 1st intake was cast, and there was a very minor issue we wanted corrected. That took place and the pattern was actually back in the hand of the casting hands by the 1st week in March. Sadly,the gentleman who does our casting had a wife who has been long battling cancer, and she has passed away, which unfortunately has taken him out of action. It really brings home how important things in life like intakes really are. Needless to say the casting of the intakes has not taken place as our good friend has had to deal with the passing of his best friend and wife. The good news, is I did hear from him today, and he thinks he will be up to getting what we anticipate as the final test intake and we hope to see it shipped to us this coming week. We wont have the intakes ready by this coming weeks Spring Carlisle. In fact, for this an a couple of other reasons we wont have the AoK booth at Spring Carlisle this year. George has sub'd out the 3 spots. For those patiently waiting, please, still don't send $$$ I want to know we have the intakes in hand and ready to have machined before we "unleash the hounds". Again, my apologies.. I truly thought we would have them ready to ship right now. Tim Kingsbury & George Asche AoK Racing & Performance Parts
  41. 1 point
    I will add you both to the list to let you know when we are ready to ship ! In terms of pricing, the new AoK dual intakes will be $425 each, plus $125 if you want the stainless linkage, plus shipping. If you want a matched pair of carter ball and ball carbs, completely built/rebuilt, they are $175 each, or $150- each if you supply complete rebuildable cores. Your cores do not need to be a match pair. So for a complete setup your looking at $850 plus shipping. We would ship a complete intake with carbs and linkage mounted and ready to bolt on your car. Your just need to let us know what application it is going on. Aka, a car or a truck, and what year and model of car or truck they are going on. Additionally we do make dual exhaust headers from stock exhaust and they are $175 for a pair of headers. I will put pictures on this blog entry (above) of our big block AoK triple with the headers. Obviously these would be for the small block (23 1/2" Plymouth/Dodge engine) but would have a similar look. Tim
×