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  1. Hi All....took a bit but here are my pics from the BBQ...good to see y'all enjoy!! Please let me know if the link works for you....Thanks! Kevin <iframe width="480" height="360" src=" http://s62.photobucket.com/user/Kstop57/embed/slideshow/10th%20Annual%20Clements%20BBQ"></iframe>
    4 points
  2. Probably would be the 241. My buddy has a 57 Firedome he just finished a full resto on. I followed him to Charlotte this weekend for the Desoto club meet there. He has several Desoto's, including a 56 Hemi convertible.
    2 points
  3. Thanks Tim, Steph and all the family for letting us invade the farm again this year! WOW #10!!! Again, a GREAT JOB by you guys. I hope to hear some engine noise from my 52/53 by next BBQ!! Also, a BIG THANKS for the temporary parking spot for 'Ol Red...it helps immensely ! Now I just have to keep my wife's car outta the garage space I made!!! Got pics to post as well....soon!!
    2 points
  4. LOL, hey wait, I've done that! only it wasn't the trunk and I was bringing them home....... and it gave a new meaning to "giving the driver crap"
    2 points
  5. The 23 inch engine was the first of its type to appear in 33 , modified with full water jacketing in 35 and used in Plymouth and Dodge through 59 , 60 in trucks and 72 in Power Wagons . The crankshaft was much improved for the 218 . The last 201 was phased out in 41. The 230 was the largest of this series and all things considered, it was a very successful design and in sheer numbers dominated the field. Some speed equipment was available for the 25 inch engine . Edmonds being the most common. Many companies including Fenton and Tattersfield made equipment for the 23 incher. The 25 inch in engine appeared in '37-8 to replace an over heavy design which was used in the Chrysler , It took its engineering cues from the 23 incher and for the most part, shared timing gears, front covers, fuel and oil pumps, bell housings and flywheels. An engine plant was opened in Canada in 38 and the 25 inch blocks were used in all cars made in Windsor. All displacements of this design on both sides of the border shared gaskets, camshaft bearings and crankshaft bearings. Bores were 3 3/8 and 3 7/16 and strokes - 3 3/4. 4 1/16 ,4 1/4, 4 1/2 and 4 3/4. They were last used in passenger cars in 59, trucks in 60 and power wagons up to 72. They were popular as industrial engines as well. If you really want to know how Chrysler's engines evolved, especially in the early 30s and again in the early V8 era, I recommend you read Willem L Weertman's book Chrysler Engines 1922-1998 published by SAE ISBN# 978-0 7680-1642-0
    2 points
  6. This is how I re built my differential. An old shipping crate with a couple notches. Nice workable elevation.
    2 points
  7. Also a few things showed up yesterday. A new battery tray and an original mopar 814 which doesn't look to bad.
    2 points
  8. I think I figured out me new parking brake and wheel chocks for my trans conversion swap. Have a look. This of course is only for joking purposes only, and in no way to be taken seriously. This is a trans destinend for someone else project
    1 point
  9. Something I had a bad time with my 46 Ply project was lack of juice in the garage and knocking out the breaker when I had the lights all on. After I was mostly done I found out if I shut off all the lights on the circuit the welder worked 100% better. I have an Eastwood 120 volt wirefeed and it works fine for sheet metal now. Make sure you cutout well beyond the rusted area when replacing the floor etc. A good self darkening hood and pliable leather gloves are a good idea too. A thin blade on a 4 inch grinder will do most all of the cutting if you dont want the expense of a cutting torch and tanks. On my Morris Minor I made a rotissery and what a great thing that turned out to be. Cost me about $50 to make it. Ill have to disagree about removing the body as you will wish you had before your done. IMO Just a few things that may help.
    1 point
  10. _ _ _ _ so they loaded up the truck and moved to Beverly Hills that is, swimmin' pools 'n movie stars
    1 point
  11. Thats what the box is for.....LOL Build a platform with a couple of bucket seats and good harness belts, take 5 of you to town.....LOL
    1 point
  12. I'm in, only if we can put that motor in my semi. The demo just went to the top of my "If I would win the lottery" list. I have a feeling if I did own that car I would make the 10% not to live after a 1000 miles. I have never driven anything except for a crotch rocket ( I backed off when I was at the top end of 3rd gear and my front tire was floating and I saw I was dong 130 MPH.) that I haven't open completely up. But what a way to go.
    1 point
  13. I have a problem with charging that much for a tire. What happens then is the tires find there way into ditches or burnt at night. The cost should be added when purchased. I also think it is ridiculous that you cant take garbage out of a landfill. I take my construction demo to landfills at least once a week at several different locations around WI, depending where the project is. Most places don't care if I see something cool and take it out but a few of the bigger landfills will not allow you to remove anything once it enters. Most of my out buildings are built and decorated with landfill finds.
    1 point
  14. Maybe I'll have to talk Todd B into hooking up his semi and we can rewrite Smokey and the Bandit... Whatdya think Snowman? Westbound and down? LOL!!!
    1 point
  15. Connecting the vacuum gauge to the vacuum advance port at the base of the carburetor will not show true manifold vacuum. Connect the gauge directly to the intake manifold using the port for the vacuum wipers. On an industrial engine that is designed to run at a governed speed the vacuum advance is not required. However on an automobile engine that runs at different speeds the vacuum advance will make the engine run more efficiently and economically. A vacuum advance causes the timing to advance when there is a load on the engine. Mechanical advance distributors only sense engine RPM, Contact the folks at Terrill Machine as I believe they rebuild vacuum advance units. Terrill Machine Company 1008 CR 454 phone (254) 893-6006 Deleon, TX 76444
    1 point
  16. Right on Brother you dah man....have a blast and a few for me...
    1 point
  17. I would name Tim Kingsbury as the most knowledgeable member on this or any other forum for that matter for Performance Chrysler flathead 6s. Your really need to read his Blogs, in order to get a full appreciation for Tims, experience, history and knowledge on this topic. Dpollo, is another very knowledgeable individual, and so is Tim Keith. And of course the Grand Master George Asche who built Don Coatneys intake and exhaust, and as well as mine. So either George or Tim Kingsbury for the most on the most....
    1 point
  18. I always put something bigger than me under a car when I get under it. I also bump it a time or too, I would much rather it fall with me standing beside it than under it. We've all heard those stories about the guy that wasn't so lucky, I think about that stuff when I get under one.
    1 point
  19. I've had good luck on other engines with POR I think it's called Marine Kleen or something like that to pretreat the engine block and other components. Then spray a coat of Rustoleum red primer for rusty metal. Then topcoated with regular Rustoleum paint. It takes quite a while to dry but has proved durable in the past. The only time I've ever painted anything exhaust related was in 1970. I got a fancy set of Hooker headers for my '68 Javelin. Pulled them out of the box, wiped them down and painted them white with expensive VHT paint. Hung them up on my ma's washline to dry. By the time they were installed they were white with greasy fingerprints. Started the engine and as it warmed up the paint started burning off. Found a note later in the header box that said the factory applied silver paint was only for temporary rust protection and needed to be removed before any other coating was applied. As they say "when all else fails read the instructions".
    1 point
  20. Roberts rad.cap DCM rad.cap Bernbaum rad.cap VPW cooling parts
    1 point
  21. As was mentioned the factory full flow oil filters were available on some but not all 25" Chrysler and Desoto engines. And even though the provisions for the full flow filter were available a pipe plug must be installed inside the engine block to make them function. If the engines has the full flow capabilities there will be a diamond shaped "boss" near the distributor as pictured.
    1 point
  22. Also, my grille for the car is finally not in shambles. I'd like to get it rechromed but cost is an issue currently. How it came when I got it Vs now
    1 point
  23. I bought a lift for my shop about 10 years ago. I had no choice. Not flexible enough to bend over anymore,so I needed to be able to pick a car up high enough I could either sit on a stool and work on stuff like the brakes,or be able to walk under it to work on a car. I also have trouble getting down on the floor without falling because my damn knees like to surprise me occasionally by collapsing when they are bent to about a 45 degree angle,so the lift works for me in more ways than one. I bought one with ramps I could drive or winch a car on because I can't get down to set the arms on the modern style. Have a couple of slide pieces that move up and down the ramps if I have to jack the car up off the ramps. It even rolls around if there is nothing on it and I want to move it out of my way for some reason. Now I can't believe I ever allowed myself to not have one.
    1 point
  24. It’s tough to beat the old Ford bell axle housings for jackstands. A notch on the small end, and you’re ready to go. The 3-legged type are to flimsy, and unstable. I’ve got 2 sets of 4-legged stands, and they’re all stable. But, my favorites are a set of homemade that my dad got for me—they’re made out of 3”-diameter ½”-wall tubing welded on to a 12”x12”x½” steel plate. They look like they’d hold a house, and not topple. And, as for the “butt-bump”. . . I do that several times before I crawl under a car, as well as grabbing hold of the car and giving it a good shake. I also take an aerosol marine horn with me, in case I have a problem, I can use it to get help.
    1 point
  25. I did something similar to this. It was called ROP . All that I had to do is sign up. Over 6 months I got certified on 7 different processes. Totally worth it. It was offered at a local high school.
    1 point
  26. A good way to clean rust and scale from a gas tank is to use a farm tractor. Jack up one rear wheel and safely block tractor so it cannot fall or roll. Fasten gas tank to the elevated wheel using ratchet straps. I then put a 4 ft. Piece of 3/8 log chain and 1/2 gallon of cheap paint thinner in the tank and replace the cap. Start the tractor, put in gear, let the clutch out. Use your judgement on what gear and RPM. Open lawn chair, open cold one, sit in shade and watch your tank get very clean without sweating! I know everyone does not have access to a tractor, but those that do will find your tank cleaner with less effort. Cheers!
    1 point
  27. My favorite jack stands are made from an old Ford rear axle. They have a round base and are less likely to sink than the 3 legged stands. I also use 4X4 wood blocks. No matter what stands I use I bump the car hard with my butt before I crawl under it.
    1 point
  28. Here is the pdf version, download and you can zoom in to read the details. hp_torque.pdf
    1 point
  29. Hello Oldasdirt, No worries, I just am not the type that feels that fighting over a difference on opinion resolves anything. When I was younger guy, in my twenties, I had gotten cocky a couple of times, and had to open wide to insert my foot into my mouth.... LOL When I owned my restoration business, I used to build for people that were very performance orientated. At that time, for my customers, I have sent the headers out to Jet Hot to get the inside coated with what they refer to as a thermal barrier. Then I would have Jet Hot coat the outside to suit the customers taste. Having Dyno Facts is the best way to go. I love factual research versus bench racing hearsays... If I can't find the factory Mopar split manifold's that came on trucks, I am definitely going to try out the Langdon's. When I do this task, I will share what my findings are here. If for any reason the Langdon's fall short, I will pray that George Ashe is fit as a fiddle, so he can split a manifold for me. I won the small six lottery, and I have a set of Fenton's! I rarely get lucky, and these gems cost me more than I would like to admit. I feel safe to say that Speed parts are getting scarce for these engines. And even tougher for the big Sixes. If I ever get the opportunity to win the lottery (will probably never happen), I will call on the AOK boys to make a large amount of Manifold's. And even Hire Tim to make the most efficient Large Six exhaust manifolds. I can dream, right?
    1 point
  30. VINTAGEPIC: Pilot-House at the cattle auction
    1 point
  31. Hey classiccarjack , Were good. No problem at all. Were Reg Evans headers for the USA small block engine or for the Canadian big block engine, which is what the intake in question fits ? The small block ones are Fenton repro and they are tight in terms of the fuel pump but work. As others have reported on other threads, the new big block ones there is an issue. If you can make your own, your golden. Most of us wish we could. Most of us cant ! Trust me I wasn't in any way, shape or form suggesting not to buy anything from Tom Langdon. I am stating his big block headers are something I have purchased, they didn't work with a stock fuel pump. I briefly put them on with an electric fuel pump and reduced the pressure so I could try them. I then send my original exhaust to George Asche to have headers made. When I got them I pulled the Langdon ones off, put back my stock fuel pump, and put pipes put back on. First thing I liked the looks for the originals made into headers. I much preferred the way they hooked to exhaust piping and how it exited towards the back of the car with out a sharp turn required by Langdon's. I ran the car on a chassis dyno with Langdon's on and with George Asche's on. As I said they were almost identical. If anything the very slight edge in performance went to Asche's setup. All of that and Asche's were a fraction of the price. To each their own though. On tubed headers, if I was doing that again, I would get them coated by JetHot or a similar coating. That definitely would have made a difference in longevity. Just one guys experience. That doesn't mean I am right and your wrong. I have a PHD in being wrong ! Have a great day!
    1 point
  32. I am headed to Vegas this weekend for the Viva Las Vegas car show. That will be close to 500 miles round trip with my heavy load of two lawn chairs, an ice chest and a vintage bike. Does that count?
    1 point
  33. The primary mission of the water dist tube is to direct coolant up toward the valve seats. It is vitally important for the exhaust valves as they are only cooled when in contact with the seats. I don't think the tube itself contributes to engine running temp unless it is collapsed or clogged and restricting flow. Also keep in mind that the thermostat only effects the temperature at which the bypass opens and the radiator enters into the picture and adds its capacity and thermal exchange to the operating temp equation, it really has little to due with operational running max temperature. Years ago I had a Honda Civic the on real cold days with the heater running at full open and high fan did not open the thermostat. The heater coreprovided all the heat exchange that was needed and the radiator and hoses stayed cool to the touch. Strange but true.
    1 point
  34. Tim put my order aside for me. And I did receive the unfortunate news about George. Tim told me about it a month or so ago. I visited Reg Evans and looked at his Langdon's Cast Iron Headers. I have the exact same fuel pump that he has, and yes, they clear that style of fuel pump. These so called Chevy designed headers, as you put it, are thick and don't have flow restrictions. I have built my own personal headers throughout the years. I wish that I had a TIG, so they weren't pretty by any means, and even though my headers weren't cosmetically appealing, they worked great. The last set I created, well I admit, I was lazy and I used two different designed headers, and married them together. I have had them on my car now for over 15 years with 60,000 + miles, no issues. BUT, the set that I am talking about is on a Slant Six, not a flathead. Definitely not the same engine. I do take time to research things before I do it. I have installed headers on not only Mopars, but other makes to. And I have done things that other guys told me was impossible. If you feel the need to put me down and make accusations that I never installed a set of headers, that is fine with me. If you knew me, you would feel differently about the subject. And I am not going to fight with you about it anyway, I just don't do that kind of thing. I will use the Langdon's in the future, and they will work for my application. I have been tinkering with machines for almost 40 years now, and by no means claim to be the best out there. Every day is a new day, and I have learned alot from a lot of different people. Even from folks that are not mechanics! I still see things that are outside of the box that just blow me away now and then. I will admit that I have made mistakes, and I am certainly human. I am terribly sorry that you are frustrated with this product, and I certainly can empathize... I also value your opinion, I try to learn different ways of achieving a more effecient goal. Tim Kingsbury really speaks highly regarding George's split manifold's. He wouldn't mention it if the idea didn't work and make power. And it's good to know that tubed headers may have a short lifespan. Please forgive me if I rubbed you the wrong way, that wasn't my intention.
    1 point
  35. Of course it will assuming your 41 Windsor has its original engine or a replacement 25 1/2" block. In terms of carbs do you know what the carbs were built for ? That is an AoK intake which is Tim Kingsbury and George Asche and that linkage is made by George. No one makes nicer stuff. As many have said if you need more information Tim Kingsbury is the guy I would email. If you ever want to sell that, please send me a note! Hi Classic Jack - I suspect you haven't actually put headers or Langdons header on anything ? Langdons clearly are adapted from a chevy design and they don't work with the stock fuel pump. I was definitely disappointed by them, and turned around and sold the set I bought. Headers made are not a terrible option. They tend not to last long unless you coat them and by the time you do that, your into them pretty deep. I had a nice pair made by moose. Loved them, but 20,000 miles they were done. After all that expense I opted for your option #3. I bought a set of headers made from the stock exhaust. It looks better, it fit better and with my Plymouth on a chassis dyno it had almost identical numbers to the Moose headers. If anything the edge was to the Asche units and they were 1/4 the cost of the headers I had made. If you can get George or his boys to make you a set, that is the way I would go. I say if, because I called and talked to Rob a couple of weeks ago and it sounded as if George health is such that they are no taking on any new projects and for sure that triple is now sold out. I had purchased one about 7 years ago and was hoping to get another 1 but they are sold out. It also looks like the costs of making them combined with George's health result in these intakes moving into the collector status.
    1 point
  36. I have the dual exhaust set up also on the way ,good news that the manifold/carb set up is from Mr Asche ,I have only ever heard glowing tributes to his work.I await the arrival of both items with excitement ,the whole set up was taken off a 42 fluid drive windsor so it SHOULD work.Crosses fingers and legs.
    1 point
  37. I am buying mine from Tim/George Also. I will be sending money soon.
    1 point
  38. After many issues we got it ready to install. Who knew you had to pull the pulley off to install the front mount????!!!! My helper Almost in. The upper left bolt on the rear mount has a captive nut. So far I can't get it lined up. The other 3 rear bolts are in along with the fronts.
    1 point
  39. Keep your eye on this guy, he could be trouble. We aussies can get a bit excited when we go o/s and begin sampling the local "cuisine".
    1 point
  40. Upgrading to a multiple Carburetor set up will be much more efficient if you also upgrade to a better flowing exhaust system. There are a few paths that you can take. One is to have headers made, second option is to buy a set of cast headers from Langdon's Stovebolt, the third would be to contact Tim Kingsbury and/or George Ashe to have a stock manifold split into dual exhaust. Think of it as a air pump, the more air you bring in, will require more air to get out, in layman's terms..... And more air flow equals more efficiency, which will yield more horsepower. Just upgrading the exhaust alone makes a huge improvement.... I visited Reg Evans on Monday, he installed dual exhaust on his Dodge with a 230 in it, and claimed that the dual exhaust made it seem like his engine became a V-8 from the improvement in performance. I thought that it also looked nice. But you may need to make some fuel pump modifications depending on what arrangement you currently have. But you must figure out how to get your transmission to work out. Or go the easy path and convert over to a manual transmission. This is my opinion offering, I have personally modified six cylinders in other configurations and makes and always have had amazing results. All sixes benefit from improved induction and exhaust flow. Good luck, I hope that you get the transmission to cooperate with you.
    1 point
  41. Bite the bullet and go with the and go with the dual exhaust to get the benefit of the better exhaust flow from the engine. Also you get the dual pipes out the back for the bling and sound. How are the restrictions there for flow through mufflers?
    1 point
  42. oh no.....its a Mr. Microphone by Ronco.....(one step up from Mr Cardboard Tube)
    1 point
  43. This might or might not help. All connection ports on the main oil galley are common so you can use any one for oil line supply connections.
    1 point
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