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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/08/2017 in all areas

  1. You can try the hit and miss approach by doing the good suggestions above or do a one time major service and never have to deal with it again. Pull the radiator and get it cleaned. (same with the heater if you have one) While it is out pull and replace the water distribution tube. Remove the freeze plugs and flush the block till clear. Replace hoses. Go back to the 160 degree stat. (These are not presurized cooling systems and the 180 stat loses you 20 degrees of cooling capacity) Check water pump and fan belt. While it is out pull the back cover and check for bearing and impeller wear. Or just replace and be done with it.The impellers do fail. Insect fan belt replace if needed and adjust properly. Refill with a 50 50 mix water and antifreeze. You heating issues will be over and you will just need to flush every couple years. By doing it all at once you save a lot of time and some money.
    4 points
  2. The water distribution tube could also be part of the problem.
    3 points
  3. After all the posts I've made seeking help, I am finally starting a build thread. I will post up some pictures soon. Right now just getting something started.
    2 points
  4. I looked under the hood yesterday and found this
    2 points
  5. And this is why I'm calling it the little blue truck. It doesn't exactly look like the truck in the book but I like to read these books to my daughter. And she enjoys them so that's what we're sticking with
    2 points
  6. The truck has been sitting in the garage for a while so in the meantime it has become a nice shelf. There is normally more stuff on it.
    2 points
  7. Been working on collecting parts and cleaning them up and powder coating.
    2 points
  8. Found myself a horn ring that wasn't broken. On the old ring one of the archs was broken out.
    2 points
  9. Not a great picture but got the tail light all done.
    2 points
  10. Are you using anti freeze, Are your hoses old and collapsing, are you running water through your heater, is your heater core clean, how good is your fan belt, can it slip, are your external radiator passages clean check all of these then buy a good /engine flush and see what happens. Work with the easy items first. Good luck. JMHO.
    2 points
  11. If your Dodge is fluid drive and you use the fluid drive and transmission from the Dodge behind the Plymouth engine an 8 bolt crankshaft flange will be required. I am not sure if the 1958 Plymouth has an 8 bolt flange on the crankshaft.
    2 points
  12. I posted this super early so Brendt wouldn't worry that the 10th BBQ would be the last one....lol CYA THERE BRENDT, AND Y'ALL!!!! 48Dodger
    1 point
  13. I'll see what their prices are for the rubber/metal sill mats and let anyone interested know. http://www.oldcarsweekly.com/restoration/restoration-tips/do-it-yourself-restoration-reproducing-parts
    1 point
  14. And in several of the head bolt holes the bottom of the hole is inside the internal water jacket of the block. Thus all the iron shavings and rust crud is now free to float around inside the water cavities of the engine. Use the magnet and a shop vacuum to suck as much of the stuff out as is possible before and after the blast of compressed air.
    1 point
  15. All of this is good information, you guys left out one out.....iron block, iron shavings.......after you blow out the hole go fishing with your telescoping magnet just in case the cutting oil has trapped smaller particles at the bottom of the hole.
    1 point
  16. I might get some kind of a plaque made at some point and put it somewhere on the truck
    1 point
  17. Unscrew the petcock completely out of the block. With a bent wire, see if you can get any crud out of the water jacket. This will give you an idea what is in there, and if you need to remove freeze plugs. If you do not have a shop manual, good idea to get one.
    1 point
  18. http://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/tech/tech_tips.html/ Scroll down to Water Distribution Tube for a backgrounder
    1 point
  19. additional information - Flathead Coolant Flush
    1 point
  20. Water distribution tube (WDT) is a metal tube which inserts into the engine block (beiind the waterpump) to distribute water to the hotter areas at the top of the engune. Try a forum search for the WDT, or find information on that topic from the resource section at the top of the forum page.
    1 point
  21. I had a similar problem with my 52 truck when I first got it on the road. My radiator guy told me that (in a nut shell) if your truck overheats whilst driving it is more likely a blockage issue, but if it overheats whilst idling then it's more likely a waterpump flow issue. We found that a few of the cores in my radiator were blocked by scale matter from inside the engine block. I had the block acid dipped (with freeze plugs removed) during the rebuild process & it appears that process loosened a bit of scale. They suggested that I ran some sort of sock in my radiator hose to catch that scale, but I fixed he issue with a few radiator & block flushes over time. i run a 160 degree thermostat & anti freeze. I now rarely see my temp gage get to 180. hope it works out for you.
    1 point
  22. Drifter is spot on. I pulled the freeze plugs on both engines I repaired, then spent an hour with a steam cleaner in every cavity I could get into. I did not stop til all exiting water was clean. Yes the engines were out of the car. Maybe, if you open all the pet cocks, use a guality flush product, then replace water as the engine runs and pumps out water, one may remove a lot of crud. Not necessarily a recommendation just an idea that won't hurt anything. Good luck.
    1 point
  23. Many post here have stated and my personal experience was when we pulled out the freeze plugs the block was packed solid with build up.My temp was fine but then when I took the engine apart I got three coffee cups of debris out of it. If it's never been clean out you would be supprise what in there. Just my opinion not fact,, good luck
    1 point
  24. Yes a 4 bolt flywheel will work on an 8 bolt crankshaft. I am running such a combination in my P-15. The problem is the fluid drive coupling requires the 8 bolt crankshaft and if you bolt up a fluid drive 8 bolt coupling to a 4 hole crankshaft the bolts will shear and it will fail.
    1 point
  25. I actually put my hands on those! They looked Awesome! I am definitely going to buy a set also. Thank you Reg for allowing us to come out to visit. BTW, the Empire Mine was amazing! Thank you for the tip.
    1 point
  26. I have had unexplained things happen due to a bad ground. Once I installed a switch and somehow pinched a wire which has caused a similar result. Does it work fine if you unmount and pull the switch up out of place? I hope that your switch isn't defective....
    1 point
  27. It's common knowledge here that locally assembled prewar US cars were Canadian sourced, after the war it was a mix depending on the year.
    1 point
  28. Seems to me at a bare minimum that you are going to have to drop your oil pan to check the bearings and to check/clean/replace the oil pump. You might also try to blow compressed air through the oil galleries on the side of the block to see if there are any blockages. BTW,if you drop the oil pump to clean/check/rebuild/replace it,make sure you pack the area where the gears are with something like wheel bearing grease before you button things up under there. Don't worry about it interacting with the oil. No problem.
    1 point
  29. If all else is equal,go for the 58 engine. It is the peak of the 230 evolution,and makes more power and is arguably more durable than the early ones. Plus it is a 230,and the one out of the truck is probably a 218.
    1 point
  30. TYPE C , Three speed unit with remote shift control and extension casting for overdrive, used 1940 - 1950
    1 point
  31. When ever I see a "don't touch my car" sign the first thing I do is touch it. Same as a wet paint sign. My mom said I was not trainable.
    1 point
  32. I approve of this hijacking. Bringing some class to this shindig! Love that suburban!
    1 point
  33. Your '41 with the vacamatic should shift as it is controlled by the variation of vacuum off the intake manifold, which you would have to tap on the triple. Since you are not using the performance of your kick down function on the transmission why are you considering the tripple? You will loose the additional dashpot which aids in the hesitation on shifts, you will have to balance the triples, and it is still a fluiddrive with vacamatic. The vacamatic system is a very interesting setup and unique. If I was to put triples on my car I would change to a normal clutch and transmission. Just my 2 cents
    1 point
  34. With no radio, no windshield wipers, no phone I decided to visit my cousin in Cloverdale, California. It took me 10 hours to get from Southern California to the San Francisco bay area. Next day 3 hours to get to Cloverdale. It was about 1156 miles (round trip). I'm going to figure out how much gas I used and see what my mileage was. The car drove like a champ. I don't like driving at night because I don't have dash lights - I don't have dash lights because I don't drive at night. Going across the Golden Gate bridge gave me chills. It was 1948, I was lost in dreams. At my cousins he took apart my WS wiper motor (and told me it's not a motor but we couldn't figure out what to call it). I am going to have wind shield wipers. I don't want to make a novel out of this but just wanted to say all the money I've put into that silly car was worth it.
    1 point
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