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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/05/2017 in all areas

  1. Powered by a Dodge flathead also. And they use the '48-'50 gauge cluster.
    2 points
  2. Just got a pic of one. They are the same as the '48-'50 B series truck with a slightly different face.
    1 point
  3. Here are a couple of pictures of Dolly Dodge this weekend. We made a grocery store run, off to the feed store, and some other chores. I haven't had any more locking brake issues since replacing the front brake rubber hoses. She seems to be good and gold these days.
    1 point
  4. The '51 had a Borg & Beck clutch and the '52 had an Auburn clutch. The linkages were different and the '52 did not come with an over-center spring; they called it a 'lift spring' in '52 if I remember correctly. Have you checked under the car for linkage binding? Maybe the throwout bearing or clutch fingers are stuck in the 'depressed' position.
    1 point
  5. Bumpers on! I'm off work all this week and am planning an all out blitz to get as much as I can wrapped up and start road testing.
    1 point
  6. That is exactly how I did the king pins on my '33 Plymouth. Used a micrometer and a "T" gauge to check the inside diameter of the bushing after each cut.
    1 point
  7. I'm stunned you're having this much problem. I take a set into my local machine shop, pick them up in a day and for around $25 labor they are always done and done right. Are there just no shops left that do anything?
    1 point
  8. LoneJackLarry's link is the right one. Get a left and right. Omix-ada 1827012 Omix-ada 1827013 http://www.rockauto.com/m/mobilecatalog.php?carcode=1421064&parttype=7484
    1 point
  9. I drive a 47 and you won't need any more truck to boost your ego. I researched 'ifs' when I first bought my truck and due to the forward motor mounts, the steering rack interfered and on and on.Thank heaven I didn't get to butchering mine. Muscling the stock truck around, gears a grinding, is as 'macho-manly' as it gets. I just love my flathead.
    1 point
  10. It has been many a year but way back when I used an adjustable reamer With a tapered pilot to keep it aligned with both bushings at the same time. I did one side then the other after slowly making it larger until one end fit fairly tightly then reversed the tool to slowly get the other bushing done to the same. Worked extremely well even on the first time I did it. Like this one- not cheap! ( attached) Surprised a local machine shop does not have one and Someone who knows how to use it. They are available at Harbor Frieght as a set for about $70 But it does Not have the alignment tool to keep it centered, So probably not.
    1 point
  11. When you look into the spark plug hole you are looking at the intake valve. No movement indicates a stuck valve. Suggest you remove the head for further inspection. Also suggest you purchase a service manual for your truck.
    1 point
  12. Got the center section all welded in and ground down. Some dolly work and on to the sides! At this rate in May I'll have the floor and firewall done too! Here's hoping!
    1 point
  13. I need to revive this thread. Anyone have a source for the correct springs for the 54 clutch? I am going to rig something up for teh time being, but those springs are long gone. Id like all the correct linkage anti rattle clips and spring if possible. Thanks Chris
    1 point
  14. My thought about a 20 or 30 amp switch was if it was on the charging circuit (going through the ammeter). If you have a battery disconnect, you will need a beefier switch. For example a P15 starter motor is rated a drawing up to 280 amps while the 49 and early 50s Plymouths are shown in my book as drawing 335 amps. If you are using a 200 amp disconnect switch on the battery it is under rated and should be swapped out. If you are add a wire directly from the regulator output to the battery you will be bypassing the ammeter so it will read 0 all the time. And if it is on the battery side of the disconnect you will be bypassing your disconnect and probably creating a fire hazard as the starter, if you try to use it, tries pulling several hundred amps through it.
    1 point
  15. Looking good Casper, dragging all the underseal and primer off the floor is a right PITA - must have taken a while! I'm doing it on one of my old VW vans with a scraper and it is evil - on my Dodge I have found a "needler" air tool works well for the wax as it is old and crusty - just when you hit a part of the frame which is old and crusty as well, you know about it as the needler punches lots of holes in it Headers look good, was thinking about getting something similar made up over here as the chances of finding a split manifoild are zero I have added some more pics to my build thread on the ongoing rocker repairs, looking forward to seeing how yours goes on when they arrive Cheers, Paul.
    1 point
  16. After seeing what bump stop revulcanizing costs I decided there had to be a cheaper way. Autozon Control Arm Bumper #14205 costs $3.98 ea X 2 for a total cost of $7.96 plus tax verses $70.00+. They are the correct height and diameter using what info I could find. I removed all traces of old rubber from bracket and drilled and tapped a hole to match threaded stud on new bumper. I then cut stud down to about 1/8 inch and screwed it in tight and gave a quick spot weld to keep it in place. This should work quite well. Will post completed picturein a few days I install F1 brackets and shocks. Please note that last picture stop has not been screwed in all the way or welded yet.
    1 point
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