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Howdy Folks - On behalf of George Asche Jr - thank you one and all for the Birthday wishes. He has seen all of the notes on the thread and received a great number of calls wishing him well. He really was humbled by the shear volume and really did appreciate it. A few have sent me notes and of course those have been passed on. In a few of those notes was asking if George's uncle Harry is really still alive. Yes he is, yes he really is George's uncle.. and while he isn't a lot older than George, he is a bit older. He turns 88 on March 6th. I was down and spent some time at AoK world wide HQ, also known as George's house and shops.. While there we went down to "Uncle Harry's" and brought him up to Georges to inspect a new car George recently purchased. It is a 1929 Desoto 4 door, which is actually like the 1st car George ever owned. Ive updated this blog entry to add those pictures.. Harry and George beaming ear to ear over the new car. Also a rare shot over in the Asche Mechanical Shop with Harry, George Jr, George III and Rob also known as George's #1 and #2 son.. Lol.. you can ask George who #3 is if your ever talking to him. Harry was telling the boys about a legendary grudge race on a Nascar track between his #90 car with a flathead 265 that George had built vs a guy running a 392 Hemi. The punch line, yes Harry won the race.. The rest of the story, well that is for another time. But I thought people would like to see a few pictures of the folks you often hear me or someone talk about !

Edmunds has more water galleys in the front of the heads and the engines don't run hot. The Edgy head does. Claims of no issues, are a little under stated. Earl is a great guy and very smart. He got into mopars in the 90s and I applaud his arrival although I have had one of his heads it over heated. I bought on of his intakes. It was better than an offy that it seems it was the starting point for, it was not as good as the last Edmunds and I now have one of the new AoK intakes which hasn't been installed yet although it clearly looks superior. The other issue is Edmunds heads have not been produced for approximately 50 years so they are getting scarce. What I don't know is if Earl has changed his pattern to increase the cooling to the front of the head. I wasn't happy with mine and sold it on ebay along with my edgy intake. If it wasn't for the overheating I would not have sold the head. The spark plug holes are different between the two but I have seen guys modify the Edmunds as well. You also have to realize that both have the issue of being a different metal than the block and by the very nature there is an issue. Edmunds built his small and big block heads at a time when the combustion chambers and compression was far less from the factory. In the early 50s the Canadian big block heads chambers changed and up went the compression. The small blocks did the same later in the 50s. Beyond the look, I would love to see any real proof that your not further ahead with a 1950s cast iron head shaved than an aluminum head. I have asked for years, and no one has come up with any. Its a little like the spitfire head discussion. If you like the look I cant argue with that. Putting an aluminum head on a cast iron block, is an issue so you best hope there is a major performance gain. Running hot at the front, sadly that is an issue and you can very inexpensively by a temperature gun and prove what I am telling you there. You can argue maybe the middle cylinders might run warmer, but there is no reason the front cylinders should and they do with an Edgy head. I wish that wasn't the case and hopefully Earl has adapted his pattern to fix that since I bought mine.

Another gem post.......maybe do some reading, it seems to be working quite well for others that have done the swap, thus the reason Langdons sells the kit. I don't want the hassle of two or three single barrel carbs, and I never asked for opinions on if I should do it....I specifically asked about Empi carbs. Not hearing much love for the Webber from my buddy running them on his VW, so it's either the Empi or the Ford carb now...just waiting on local pricing on the Empi compared to Langdons.

Sunshine and blue skies!!!!!!!

I put a 225 with a torqueflite in a 50 Plymouth. I used a truck (rear sump) oil pan, modified the firewall slightly and moved the radiator to the front of the support. An accessory trans cooler was mounted in front of the .radiator The column gear change was arranged by using the bell crank which was part of the 50's linkage but fastened to the 225 bell housing and the lever on the column extended up and over to the other side of the column so it would pull in the right direction. The throttle position transmission controls remained just as they were with the 225 and the gas pedal was changed to the cable unit from a Valiant. A new crossmember was fabricated for the rear and the rear end was changed to an 8 3/4 from a mid 60's Plymouth . 3.23 ratio was ideal. A 72 Dart driveshaftwas used. Ideally it could have been shortened about an inch but posed no threats of bottoming out. I ran this car for 20 years with no problems . Modest power, good mileage. Lots of highway miles.

More pics here: http://imgur.com/a/9RT04 Good evening all, proud new owner of a 1947 Plymouth Deluxe 2dr Sedan, picked this up as sort of a "barn find" yesterday. Been sitting for the better part of 20 years. Previous owner said they did start it, took it down the driveway & back once a few years ago. Looks darn solid for the most part, floors are good, trunk pan is good, inner fenderwells in fair shape, but the gas tank looks like swiss cheese. Fortunately, a replacement gas tank was included. Tires hold air but are pretty weather-checked. Looks like under all that dirt is pretty decent paint and chrome, but won't know for sure until I get it cleaned up. I'm not sure at this point what's original and what's been restored, the seats definitely look recovered to me, but I don't know enough about these cars to be sure. I'm thinking this might be an older partial restoration maybe from the 80's or 90's that's just been sitting for 20 years. Cranked the motor over by hand this afternoon, not frozen, didn't feel too loose or clunky either. Plan on pulling the plugs, lubricate the cylinders, change all fluids and hopefully try to fire it sometime this week. I know old cars well, been a Mopar fan all my life, I can tear down and rebuild a 318 with my eyes closed. Grew up in a Pontiac family (my dad still owns two 1967 GTO's), but this old girl with a flat six is new territory for me. Any advice or parts resources you can offer are much appreciated!

Thanks Don, as i said in my post it is the Main jet.It has this extra thumb screw to make it easy to change jets..you can see it sticking out the bottom of the fuel bowl. Had previously checked out that site, but it does not actually answer my question, so I just set it at one and one half turns out. Anyway, not such an issue now as yesterday I finally have the dodge running smoothly - at least at fast idle. Still would like to know what is the normal ideal setting though. Maybe it should just be fully screwed in? Will also try this too now I have the sparking issue sorted. Will also fine tune with timing light to find the sweet spot. Set on TDC at present. BTW - do you happen to know how man degrees each of the timing notches are on the pullley. My workshop manual does not say. I am assuming probably 2 degrees for each notch. there are four either side of TDC. This is on a 1955 251 engine.

I read different builders on the HAMB and other sites and guys were quite happy with the small boosts of the 2bl and I'm not looking to build a monster, already have that in the rest of my build. Not to mention, I'm not dropping another $250+ US for a seperate twin single intake, when I can just add my exhaust and a different carb and have everything I need. As for Fred's usual backhanded comments, I've done more work then he has and I also own a dual quad offenhauser for my 383, so I know all I need to about dual linkages and what somebody else wants isn't what I'm after for MY truck. I think sometimes some on here like to interject too much of their opinion (nobody specific) about things that aren't being discussed when the real topic gets washed over. i appreciate the info on the Webber, but I have crossed that off the list, too much money and not great reviews from two people I respect very much here at home. If anyone is running the Empi I appreciate any feedback, it's still a possibility depending on price. I should mention I'm also looking at Langdons mini hei distributor as apart of this change, so I'm going to be deep into the costs already...I would consider Pertronix, but I feel my dist is too worn out and it's not even a vacuum advance style.

without causing a fight here.. Tom Langdon sells them because he bought a huge and I mean a huge quantity of surplus ones a few years ago. If you wish to run 1 2 barrel carb verses multiple carbs clearly that is your call. The ones Tom sell are as good as any and we can avoid the discussion of 2 or 3 singles vs a less effective 2 barrel on a flathead.

I tried raising chickens once Don, total flop...I was not sure if I was planting them to deep or too close together....cats like to hide Tootsie rolls and is why I have totally enclosed the barn with tight fitting doors....I am this spring at the point of calling animal control to drop off a few cat traps...funny how folks will move into an area..get cats, later move (spell this get evicted) but never take their cats with them...seems majority are female cats.... sure fired way to end up with a million in farming....................................................start with 3 million

I used this MC with bracket I made myself. http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderProd.aspx?itemno=260-7563 Not tried yet beacuse of winter here and some isues with the rear end.... Andre

Mine was done using a 80 diplomat donar car. pics of my slant 6 i didn't do it. i

Good to know I'm not the only one not enjoying laying on a concrete floor. Note to self, close doors before getting under car or it can severely limit the range of motion when getting up. After monkeying around with this thing, I finally got it back to where it was before. At least it not slipping any more.Whether its correct who knows. Took it for a jaunt around the section out here and everything appears to be functioning again. Put it in 3rd position and never touched the clutch till I got back home.While it was jacked up I spent several hours cleaning up 50 years of hard grease and gravel off the front end components. Found a couple zirks covered up that hadn't been touched in a while. Greased it up and added lube to the steering box. Big improvement on the ease of steering. Thanks all for your patience, its been a while since I've had a vehicle with a clutch. Bingster - here's a pic of the washers and bolts holding the floor.

the slant six is doable and suffers similar problems of the V8's of Mopar vintage, they are long in the snout (water pumps) and you are also installing an engine that has all but been gone some 28 years itself. Some look to the later Jeep inline 6 as drop ins if staying within the mopar family is your objective. The later Pentastar V6's are the ticket and not a hard install but will require the donor wiring package and the electronic packages scare the bejebbers out of most folks. Fiat Chrysler is now in the market selling retrofit wiring harness for their latest V8 performance engines. initial is costly in my opinion but will keep you up on the power curve and operational economy to boot...I have not heard if they are going to offer the 3.6 V6 retro wiring...

Could not find a similar subject, so I decided to start a new or another thread. Let's see pics of activities you enjoy with your car. I say it does not need to be Mopar specific as there are many other canvases of motor enthusiasm. I put together a gathering every year that includes machinery, food and music. Enjoy this link but please also share your own images of what turns your crank http://smg.photobucket.com/user/wstory/slideshow/Cable 2017?sort=2

Maybe this will qualify as a cruise. In 2015 I rode my bike to the 75th Sturgis bike rally. Me and friend road from east TN to Sturgis SD, stayed and enjoyed the rally for a week then on to Colorado. On the trip we logged 4300 miles in 13days. Stayed with a friend in Spearfish who owns his own plane, he let me fly it while there. ( not by myself, otherwise I prob wouldn't be here to type this.) It was an awesome trip. Proud of my old 91 Ultra Classic, she don't look like much but very dependable. Had a great time, considering going back this year.

I wanted to follow up with you to see if you had a chance to begin repairs. I really hope that you get back on the road soon.

It sat for a little over 2 days with no real progress being made. In fact,one of the cylinders in that bank that had been leaking down before stopped leaking down. My theory is enough trash had floated loose to cause another blockage. I had decided to give up and just put a head back on that bank and hook it to 150 psi of air once I came back from eating breakfast and doing a couple of other things,and being done with it. When I went back in late this afternoon to look at it,damned if 3 or the 4 cylinders weren't leaking down,so I just let it sit. I prefer to do it the slow way as long as the slow way works because weeping down due to gravity and penetration means the oil will saturate the rings all the way around to free them up,not just in the weakest spot where the air pressure would break though. Less chance of a broken ring and scored bore that way. If most of the oil in all 4 of those cylinders have leaked down by the time I get a couple of other things tomorrow afternoon,I will roll the block up on the other bank and cover all the pistons there. The other bank had the greatest penetration originally,so I am thinking it will free up easier. If the first bank hasn't leaked down by Monday morning,the head is going back on it and it's getting pumped full of compressed air after covering all the piston tops again. I want to see what the Kroil would do on it's own in severe conditions like this,but I do have other things that need to be done,so I can't make a career out of it. One way or another the block is going to be freed up and the heads and intake bolted back on it so I can store it away under a bench and get it out of my way. If I have to,I will pull the crank and drive the pistons out using a wooden block and a BFH,then remove the rings,clean the bores,lube them up good with chain and cable grease,and put it back together without the rings to make damn sure it never sticks again. Whatever happens,I will update this thread as it happens.

Seven clips as mentioned are used. Only around the curved areas towards the ends and glass side of the package shelf as shown.

about 21.5 to 22. You can read a book outside in late June until about 1am. You can start again around 3:30am.

Now that is a bit of an enigma. To the best of my knowledge yokes will slide in until they contact the outer bearing. However, I have seen a transmission sliding yoke twisted so the splines were helical. Very unlikely that the splines of your differential input shaft could have been twisted this way. If you have a spare differential perhaps you could test the new yoke on another shaft. I will be interested in what you finally conclude.

`The original factory installed yokes are best to be marked with a prick punch before removing to put it back on the way it was. But even then they sometimes have to be carefully tapped or pulled back onto the pinion shaft as they don't always easily slip back on. I do use pullers all the time including the C-452 puller to remove the trans and pinion yokes. It should be fine tapping it on as long as you are not having to HAMMER it back on!

Looks like a very solid, straight truck. I had the twin to it in 1967. Mine had 6ply tires, overload springs, and the granny gear 4speed. Once hauled 3200 lbs of rock in it. These old Dodges are rino tough, and dependable. I am not in favor of cutting them up. Personally, I would drive to Texas, rent a U haul car trailer and forget the Dakota. The money saved on shipping two trucks would go a long way on giving you a vacation. Buy a shop manual and rebuild what you've got. They are low geared, but a rear differential swap would let you run at today's highway speeds. With dual carburetors and split exhaust these flatheads will haul a load and climb a hill very well. They are famous for torque. Now, with what being said, I realize not everyone likes the same thing. As someone who loves old Mopars, I hope you will think it over and consider my suggestions. Good luck to you whatever you decide.

I worked at the Chevy dealership when I was a teen detailing cars. A boy I worked with had an old 68 Chevy truck he had bought at a yard sale one day while we were on our lunch brake for $200 bucks. It loved oil, used it pretty bad. We always had to work late, well after the mechanics had left. He would find a pan where someone had changed oil and pour it in his truck. One day he grabbed a pan of gear oil by mistake and poured it in. It was awful the smell of burnt gear oil following him down the road. If you just walked beside it while parked the smell was bad. He drove that truck for several years after that. It was one of those engines that just wouldn't give up.

When I was a kid working at the local gas station, pumping gas and oil, wash the windows and check the air in the tires etc ... After pouring a quart of oil in the customers car, we would put the card board container with oil spout in a drain barrel, to Finnish draining the last ounce out of it. Then in the evenings when it was slow, we could pull our cars in and work on them. I would use that mixed oil to clean gummed up engines, It was all new oil, but it was mixed weight and brands and also trans fluid mixed in as well. I had a 1970 torino I got for next to nothing it ran so bad and lifters clattering. I changed a valve cover gasket and it was bad inside. I changed the oil and ran it a couple hundred miles, then change it again. That atf cleaned the old torino right out. One lifter was still a little noisy, but in time it may have quieted down also. I sold the car after a couple weeks and tripled my money on it.

Mortimer452, My wife’s from western Kansas – born and raised on a farm. I’m a “military brat”, and he wound up at McConnell AFB, so I wound up growing up in Wichita from late elementary school on. Again, a great car, and I, too, am eager to see your progress with it. Regards,

IF you suspect a flex line you can usually verify by relieving the pressure on the brake side for instant release. Drive it till it occurs again and then crack the line on the supply side...if not instant relief, then it is a sign of internal hose restriction, very common... As known, supply is great amount of pressure, release is only what your springs can push back to the master....

I'm in ROSSVILLE, about 25mi. W of Topeka. IIf you don't mind a Chrysler, would like to hook up to swap lies also. Tom B

I tend to have product choices similar to what Rockwood is mentioning. Some times I get a strong feeling on a product that will just give me exactly what I want. Whether it's nostalgia or the best product made on the market. Sometimes it just looks cool and I dig it! George Ashe will be getting some more business from me after my taxes are calculated and paid. He is priority #1! Langdon's Stovebolt has some items that I plan on buying. I have followed Edgy products for a while, and I hope that SSER2 will be kind enough to share some photos with us. I have interest in his products and seek more knowledge in what he creates. -Jack H.

Ed, if I really want an Edmunds head, I can have it here by next week, but it's not cheap. If I want an EDGY Head, it would be here in about 8 weeks, once the order is placed, and the time for it to be cast and shipped etc. The matter of which I prefer is my choice, as individualistic as a "trans" choice for example. You asked me what the differences between an EDGY head and a Rare Vintage Edmunds head? I was hoping you had some info to share, on this, as I do not know if you own either of these type heads or plan to buy one at anytime soon. I could come back and state this or that, or do a Google search and give some big explanation, but why bother. While not a big deal my point is what anyone might prefer, and it does not mean what I prefer is the best or better, just what I might happen to like better.

See how it extends into the freeze plug , I wonder if that really is a crack or just a scratch .

I'd be disappointed if someone new to mechanics and old Mopars DIDN'T ask a lot of questions. The fact that they have all been asked before is irrelevant because you weren't here to read them or the replies. A new guy to old Mopars that doesn't ask questions worries me because he can't be serious about fixing his old car,and I hate to see one more head off to the crusher due to lack of interest and commitment. Go ahead and feel free to ask anything you feel the need to know. Somebody here will know the answer,and steer you right,be it a link that tells you every thing you need to know about that question,or an explanation. There is no one here that is hard to get along with. If someone tells you to use the search engine or some other reply you might think is a little harsh,rest assured it's there and easy to find. They are trying to help you,not act superior to you. We all offer help in different ways,but the key is we all offer help.

I agree, OMG this is great stuff. Finally someone explained in lay terms how the flatheads really work. I must confess I was one of those thinking that my stock engine couldn't handle dual carbs. Now I see why some many of the guys with stock engines pull this off. Thank you so much for that carb cheat sheet. I have a pile of carter ball and ball carbs around that I haven't a clue what they are from or sizing. This really helps me to separate the wheat from the chaff ! Thanks

Happy belated birthday George. Thank you Tim for turning me onto this post.

Wow so that is what an 85th Birthday tour is like. I'm Jealous. Please relay Happy Birthday wishes to George. I have tried calling for the last couple of hours but he must be on the phone. Those production intakes look better than the prototype ones did and I notice the George Asche JR and all of the script is turned around and bigger. Happy Birthday George Asche Jr - May you live until you 150, which should give you a chance to come up with a few more flathead mopar performance goodies !!

Happy Birthday George ! That sounds like a great way to celebrate ones 85th birthday. That's Tim for giving us a glimpse into things and Oh My God I was drawling looking at all of those intakes.

Happy Birthday George Jr, ll the best to you on this special day, and many more to come. Long Live the AoK Boyz

Next up, what m/c to use. Wow, I had no idea how much info, contradictory info even, I would find on this topic. In the end I decided to figure the total area of my wheel cylinders and try to match a m/c bore size to other vehicles with similar wheel cylinder total area. Flawed logic? Probably, but I had to decide on something. I then looked for a m/c with a disk brake reservoir for the front in the bore size I wanted. I came to the conclusion that a 1" to 1 1/16' bore would work. I wanted something I could bolt to new bracket and the outlets would be on the correct side for ease of plumbing. I ended my search with a Raybestos part # MC36412 with 1 1/32" bore, designed for the following applications with manual disk/drum brakes. DODGE ASPEN 1976-1977 DODGE DART 1973-1976 PLYMOUTH DUSTER 1973-1976 PLYMOUTH SCAMP 1973-1976 PLYMOUTH VALIANT 1973-1976 PLYMOUTH VOLARE 1976-1977 Due to the gusset I welded on my bracket not allowing access to a nut I decided to use the upper mounting hole under the gusset with a permanent guide pin that I welded to the bracket. It just helped lining up the MC when putting it on the bracket. I then trimmed the mount of the m/c to fit the bracket and drilled holes diagonally from each other and bolted with grade 8 hardware. I used grade 8 hardware on everything.

Donald, Were you in the right T.D.C. and 7:00 Rotor pointing? That is to say, were you really at T.D.C.? A four stroke engine appears to be correct twice with No.#1 at T.D.C. and Rotor at @ 7:00 (Check to see if the Damper Mark is at Zero - or 2 Deg B.T.D.C. when approaching TDC) Have you moved or replace any wires? Perhaps misplaced one in the Ditributor Cap? Try again, you may find you were off. The Static Timing thing usually gets your engine started. Usually a retarded Timing Setting causes Backfiring out the Carb, a too advanced timing setting backfires out of the tail pipe. Good Luck! Tom