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February 6 1932 my good friend and second Dad, the Grand Master of Flathead Mopars - George Asche was born. Yesterday was his surprise Birthday Party and today is George's 85th Birthday! The picture below is rumored to be when George Graduated High School, but I think really that should be a diploma of future Flathead Chrysler, Desoto, Plymouth, Dodge/Fargo's mastery ! In the background is his Dad's Dodge truck which George still owns today! Happy Birthday George! Oh and if your wondering what George was up to for Birthday. Well - Lunch with his Boys at the shop (George III, Rob and Tim), then building some carbs up, then over to the machine shop for some consulting as the AoK dual carb intakes were rolling through 7 different station. The picture of George with the prototype and the very first one to be completed which of course is his birthday present.. lol A few pictures of the Dual Carb (23 1/2" USA small block) and Triple Carb (25 1/2" Canadian Big Block) intakes going through the steps, and being test fitted on blocks setup with exhausts so that every intake has been checked for a perfect fit. Then it was off for Supper in Knox (Horse Thief Capital of the World) and back to George's shop and setting up tomorrows trip, which is believe it or not, were heading down to pick up George's Uncle Harry Hiens - #90 who is in the Nascar Hall of Fame. Harry lives in Mars PA. Were bringing him up to check out the AoK intakes and take George's newest 1929 Desoto for a ride!

Lockheed Brakes are a great design.......... and work well when properly re-done as per the factory instructions.

I found a 1973 Valiant colour called Sahara Beige (also called Parchment on the Chrysler) to be an exact match for 49 to 50 and some 51s notably the convertible. Seems to me there was not much variety in Steering wheel colours . Acrylic enamel does a good job. The Dupont Centari code for Sahara Beige is 5415 A1 the Chrysler manufacturer's code was L4 These numbers can be crossed over by an auto paint supplier. Vinyl Bumper repair (2part) is great for cracks.

Very cool

Plane tickets are purchased. Im looking forward to the trip!

Lots of available options.

When doing the steering wheel on my 52 car I took the wheel to a automotive paint store and he matched paint to the inside area where the steering wheel nut is. This area was not affected by sun light or much else.

close, but not always. it is possible to have the system properly bled without a firm pedal. that is another symptom of too much shoe clearance. the test is two quick pumps. first shows no firmness, second is solid pedal at the top. wally

Trying to keep our D24 close to original, but not being too anal about it. So, when I paint something on it, I try to get close, but also try to use a readily available color, for small stuff I've been using rattle can paint. Attention to detail and patience yields good results. Some parts have been painted thusly for over 20 years but look amazingly fresh. Down side is that even those folks change their colors every so often. To shorten this story, I've been using Krylon's "Khaki" for those tan parts on the D24. It's a shade or two lighter than the original, but I like the result.

A vacuum gauge usually also has a scale for reading fuel pump pressure . Also a fuel pressure regulator is a common item that can be installed between the pump and the carby .

Sometimes there is a very small leak at a fitting that doesn't show up well .

It is true, Centari was a good product. I just recently sprayed some which I had kept and was very pleased at how well it went on.The Nason products seem to be very translucent, what used to be called " low hiders" and require a uniform substrate colour. My true preference for paints was the old air dry Dulux but that is what I first learned to apply and got good results with. The Centari numbers should still be useful in obtaining the correct colour.

If you pump the pedal does it come up and appear firm? Then you need to bleed the brakes. (After you release them the pedal goes down until you pump them again? Again, bleed the brakes. Or is the pedal low but always firm? Then you need to adjust the shoes.

Since my 270 swap is gonna slow down due to the above pics, I figured I would finish some of my other projects since the flathead is gonna be under the hood for a bit longer than originally planned. New Offy intake is on. Surprise surprise... two of the intake studs go into the water jacket! Next step is to mount up the carbs and figure out the linkage. I also have my spare head that I will mill and put on. Might as well enjoy it until the V8 is ready.

Just that it has a $5500 price tag, that is some swap meet........

I called my local DuPont dealer about 2 weeks ago and was informed that the Centari enamel is no longer carried and has been dropped in favor of urethane base paint....the lower line of Nason I was informed one can still get enamel, however..I am not personally fond of Nason...

Someday I will have to restore 3 of my wheels. I was terrified looking at the cracks. This gives me some hope.

Use the best quality engine oils you want or can afford, even the lower end stuff will be API rated light years ahead of engine oils from the 40s through the 70s. I currently use Shell Rotella T 15 W 40, no complaints still fairly high in ZDDP, over 1200 ppm, and certainly way more than these old engines with low valve spring pressure, engine RPM redlines and high quality metallurgy internals. even lower end oil in the correct viscosity range should suffice, as long as a few things are considered, -clean oil pan -clean lifter chambers Those 2 aforementioned items can tell you a lot about your engines oil maintenance program. There are a lot of myths regarding engine oils, zinc content, and as well as the use of unleaded fuels Change the oil and filter on a reglar basis and your engine should outlast you, and this does not have to be expensive, cheap as you want to be.......

Those cars are in fantastic condition! Welcome and I can't wait to see how you progress with them.

similar experience here, took an original and compared to what was available off the shelf at local supply...went with them..it is often just a question of what are you comfortable with using...

HI, i am looking for a windscreen ( windshield ) for my 1954 dodge pickup truck, its a C-1-B6, does anyone know what model for glass I need. I have been looking on the Autocityclassic.com website and not sure what one it is........any help is most welcome, and I live in England, Cheers Dave

Here is the latest pic. Pretty old.

And they look so sweet. I got a little mutt last year that has been equally effective keeping people and other dogs away. Guess that is what I get taking him off death row. Hasn't done a thing about the moles though....but he is quite the digger. Got to love those little guy's.

It is more or less the same amount of work to do it either way. I say do whatever makes you happy. As someone who earns his living (such as it is) as a woodworker I would have to say white oak would be my first choice. It is going to hold up even when the finish fails....as all finishes do. Any way you want to look at it there is a good amount of work and expense involved with doing this job. Do it right and it should last a long time and look good. To economize I used some left over rustic walnut for my bed boards. Had to edge glue to get the width I needed. I used some old water base varnish I had laying around to finish. Looked good for a year or so but recently it has started to flake off. That is too bad but I may just leave it alone as the worn look doesn't really bother me.. I haul quite often with mine and have a piece of exterior grade plywood that I lay down if needed. Jeff