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My opinion of the situation is the same as Robert's. This happened to me a couple of years ago and there was significant contamination of the brakes that had to be cleaned up in addition to fixing the leak. I do hope that Ralph pulls the drum and does an inspection. . . Too bad I moved a year ago. . . Until the move I was close enough to San Jose to drop by and give a hand with this, including load of the drum puller and Ammco brake tool.

That load is not fair to anybody behind him that doesn't know the hazards of what their seeing. It could wipe out an entire family. I couldn't take that chance. It would ruin your life as well.

I think we have all discovered what " Job Rated " was intended to mean,

I agree so, I went with Mellow Yellow

ralph: in the attached picture are you asking about the zerk fitting that is on the differential outside shaft just near the flange to the back of the brake backing plate or the area on the bottom of the backing plate that has the rust area on which the paint has been removed. Some think you are referring to the rust area and I think you are talking about the specific zerk fitting is on the axle shaft near the flange. If the zerk fitting then refer to the above discussion and how to grease the back of the bearing. After looking at your picture I do see a drip of oil or some type of fluid that is just about ready to drip down onto the rim. And also on the rim and inside tires you can also see the same fluid.. You might have a leaky wheel cylinder and not a leak form the zerk fitting. I would suggest that you clean the area first and or remove the wheel and pull the drum to verify that the lower cylinder is not leaking. Also noticed that the fluid is dripping down onto the inside lip and then running to the outside of the rim. If brake fluid is the paint bubbling up on the rim green paint. You might also have to replace the inner oil seal and this might be the cause of the issue but pulling the drum and wheel will only confirm the situation. Rich Hartung

Wear that sweatshirt anywhere you please as battle scars with and old vehicle YOU maintain! Anyone gives you looks? Tell them I fix my own vehicle, not pay someone else Big $$. Wear it with Pride! DJ

The main fabrication of the floor is finished, made a bolt in gearbox cover. Back on its wheels. Now for the boot floor and rear of the bodywork .

This is a post about the work to my on going '47 Desoto business coupe project. It is just over a year now since I collected Wilma. Part dismantled, with the previous owner having removed quite a bit of the floor complete with the rockers each side. So what was left of the floor was removed with a few quick cuts with a grinder. Together with expanding foam, pop riveted aluminium, fibreglass and cabinet drawers . A frame was bolted to the chassis and adjustable fixings were connected to the a and B posts to enable the door gaps to be held whilst the repairs started . Then after some folding , bending , welding and grinding, new rockers were fabricated and welded in. These are not to the original shaping, but having nothing to go by for a reference a redesign was needed Continued on next post........

Yes, you guys appear to have deducted the situation exactly, differential oil leaking through the seals. The lost paint on the backing plate was from when we did the brakes and I haven't gotten around to repainting. So I guess the next step is to acquire new seals...

Had I come up behind a load like that in the picture, I would have called 911 and followed from a distance. Sounds like someone is pushing their luck, but more importantly, endangering innocent motorists through their lack of consideration for others safety.

If I had a friend stupid enough to do this he would no longer be my friend. What to **** does waiting until about dark have to do with the safety factor of this load? Do you have a lot of friends this stupid?

All I really need to be totally happy with driving mine on a daily basis is to get a bit better acceleration and and incline performance out of it. The brakes I have on it and the stock suspension are just fine. It actually steers and handles much better than I ever expected. And it has been 100% reliable which is more than I can say for most of the peoples' cars and trucks around me. I am as comfortable driving it in traffic as I would be in anything else. I think most of the people I share the road with see it......and don't really want to tangle with all that steel and iron. Jeff

On my 1941 Plymouth truck I used the corvette type MC from Speedway. Used 3/8 " plate. Worked with original brake pushrod. Pictures attached.

Harold, They are Wheel Vintique Hot Rod Rallye wheels--tires are diamond back 205/75-R15

That guy should have his licenses pulled for even attempting this. He is an IDIOT. Way to much tail weight on such a short wheel base trailer. It will whip back and forth at increased speed. My guess would be 40 MPH I haul loads with trailers daily and have pushed the limits at times but this is just being stupid. I am glad my family is no where new that load.

I didn't respond at first to this post simply because it didn't fit the specifications in the OP. I fully expect my truck to be capable of 70, 80 or more with little difficulty. My frame is mostly original but the suspension, drivetrain and aerodynamics have all been changed. Probably a safer truck than it was, definitely more powerful and better handling and more comfortable than it was in 1952. Even though it should be able to match traffic flow patterns of the new cars and truck, it does nothing to prevent the tailgaters, texters, speeders, drunks, druggies or a Uhaul with an unbalanced and overloaded trailer on the road with me from doing something stupid. It seems every time a manufacturer comes out with some kind of technology to compensate for driver's poor choices, the drivers get that much poorer. ABS, stability control, air bags, proximitry braking. Seattle doesn't have an exclusive on drivers that are nuts. They're EVERYWHERE!

To my mind, that is oil coming past the outer rear axle seal. The paint missing from the backing plate is likely from brake fluid but some time ago as it is well rusted at this point. Also, the paint on the rim should be starting to bubble or peel if it is brake fluid as it doesn't take long as I know from experience. I had to replace all the axle seals in my '53 Plymouth last year as the outer seal on one side had gone. Thought I'd do both at the same time. Differential oil was leaking past the inner seal, the bearing, the outer seal and down the inside of the backing plate. Just my to cents worth. I hope the original poster lets us know what he finds.

Such sad news. Every time you've made a post, I've thought or her and wondered how she was doing. Our family knows all too well what you're going through with the loss of a grandchild. We'll visit the cemetery in a couple of weeks and send some balloons aloft in remembrance, gone for three years on Dec 15 and again in January for two more who will have been gone for a year on the 19th. We take what comfort we can in remembering the time we had together, the moments that made us smile or laugh and they remain in our thoughts each and every day. I know there are no words that can describe the loss, or the pain, or the empty feeling. I've been trying for two days to put this post together, as poorly as I have, with words you could relate to, maybe draw some comfort from, as much for me as for you. The tears still fall freely, even as I write this, and hope they always will. Prayers for you and your family in the hard days to come. Dave

I wouldn't want to drive my old trucks in much of Seattle everyday traffic. The people are nuts. I could have a Cummins for power and they still would tail gate me at 70! I'm happy with the stock drive train and once in awhile drives at a max of 60. You may as well install the cab and bed on a new Dodge truck chassis to drive and be safe. Not my way of thinkin.

Given what you say about the bearings and the shims,it sounds to me like you were sold the wrong kingpin set. BTW,next time you have a axle honed/reamed,it would be a good idea to take the kingpins,bearings,and shims to the shop with the bushings so the machinist isn't working blind. When they can see the whole assembly,it gives them a better understanding of what needs to be done and how it needs to be done.

maybe the guy at u-haul when told junka truck heard Tonka truck instead and thought ti would be safe...surely the guy is home by now...

Which pipe is copper and which isn't?

New standard,.....these are lichens.

In addition what I have commented with a wink, a really reliable thing is to put one drop of the fluid on the inside of the arms´ skin. Needs not hours until you have a leak inside as in clothes. Should start to tingle within a minute or so. (Disclaimer / for safety reasons and if a child should read this: I do not recommend that, that`s just that what I had, when my brake cylinder was leaking). Joking aside: Would be nice, if you post a feedback when you have detected what it is. Ah and, that was (one of my) new clothing that I have used working on the truck. Today my wife was laughing, when writing the comment into this topic and I told her the truth ... haha

That's ok, we're patient.

I think Jan has got a good point , it probably is brake fluid . Does it feel thin like brake fluid or thick like gear oil ? If you put a drop on a painted surface the paint will wrinkle up and come off if it is brake fluid . Also gear oil has a very strong smell all its own .

Holiday in the big city.

I have the same hole in the axle on my 39 Desoto. It is closed off with a threaded plug/ The plug is remove and then 1 oz of grease is plase on your finger tip and the grease is pushed into the back of the bearing. They state to not sue a zerk fitting because then you will force under pressure too much grease intot he area and this will cause the grease to come out of the axile shaft and onto the brake linings. You can use wheel bearing grease but push it in with your finger tip.. Rich Hartung

Prayers to you all! Sorry but to not violate forum rules but much much more I wish to express, God with you all! Pushing it I'm sure, Been known to to that, but at least it's for a good reason! DJ

Hi Flatie46 All panels made myself with hand tools and a manual bead roller. I folded main outer rocker on a friends press brake to get the straightness over the length and sharpness in the bend.

Other parts of the center of the car together with the a and B posts were repaired The pedals have been fabricated onto a modern 7"servo and better master cylinder assembly and fitted order the floor The floor was framed and panelled over. So this is where it's at now. Still a long way to go , but very enjoyable . I will endeavour to try and keep the progress updated as I go. I'm in need of the external chrome fittings that bolt through the windscreen scuttle to the wiper motors. If anyone has any . Will post again soon Ta Dave ( UK)

here are the latest up date pics. so far every thing fits and looks great when assembled, i couldn't be happier with the steering. take a close look at the inner fenders, they were cut to fit the HEMI heads , but the modification looks stock.