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Check out the 47 Dodge and the 52 Caddy on this site. http://oldtrailer.com/vintage-truck-based-camper-trailers.html Love to have the time some day to cobble together something like that.

You ran afoul of the Curmudgeon Crew. Every board has an auto-attack grump team. Mostly all you can do is ignore list them, otherwise you'll spend lifetimes reading admonitions to search forum/manual or just here....trying to defend a simple question! Good luck with your part!!

That sure was a let down...I want to hear and see 6000 RPM and 200 HP.

Like Paul said... Put a set of 3.73 gears in it from a similar vintage Mopar car and you'll be able to drive all day at 65 MPH. My gear/diff set came from a '50 Plymouth. I also have the Rusty Hope disc brake kit up front. It stops great, even from those speeds (when needed). Merle

Examples of mechanical inventiveness.

Cool, yes that dinner is still open on radio hill. 30 west diner it's called. Work in Greencastle and my girlfriend lives in Greencastle. Small world. That Chrysler dealer is still going. The lot across from it closed down. Earl

I'm with ya 100 percent on that one,and it's not just one poster. I doubt anyone wants to come across as being that harsh,but that sure does seem to be the way it comes across.

Thanks!

"Really what makes you say this?" Because, you start putting high comp heads, pistons, carbs and all the rest to double the stock hp on just about any engine and the first thing to come apart will be the bottom end. Let alone a 230 with a 4+ inch stroke with all that poundage whirrling around. Just listen to it rev...sounds labored to me. Not a lot of throttle response for something putting out double the hp. Nothing was mentioned of any bottom end mods. Bottom ends on other modded engines with stock crank, rods, flywheels etc go up in smoke all the time....with much lighter components with much shorter strokes. Spend some time at the local drag strip some time. 6000 rpm AND 200 hp is an enormous strain to put on basically 1935 technology and expecting it to live long and prosper. Without the proper ($$$$) components, my money says it will have a very short life on a dyno. Not trying to start something. Just bench racin' here....with a lot of years of observing ...

With a stock crank and flywheel.......might do it once then....KA-BAMMM!!

That door looks like it has much better access for door latch work than the US version. Neither door has good access for the type of repair Geekay is looking at, and to be honest, of all the door panels I've ever had off, regardless of year or manufacture, none have good access to that area.

Ok Ed you got me......shoulda said B and C series trucks. At any rate the only real fix is to find a truck pan and swap it in. As Mark has said it is an easy conversion and takes care of the problem properly. Jeff

Just for the record, 'cause someone asked, here's the part in question. Parking lamp lens retainer for a Desoto S-11. Yes, I see that there is a pair on ebay, but they want $80 plus $14 shipping and I only need one. AB says they have a NOS for $45. Yes, a fair price. I just hate the hassle of returning things. And when I said "That's it," I meant that the last two posters hit the nail on the head.

I used the black wall side so if it doesn't work, I can just flip them around

SAE 80 gear lube in trans. SAE 90 may be substituted. SAE 90 extreme pressure hypoid gear lube for the rear.

I just stumbled across this old black and white pic of my 1940 Plymouth Pick up I had when I was in high school. Sold it and always regretted it after.

I had the same issue on my truck. I used bars and wood inside to pry, then I drilled holes and used a slide hammer with screws. It took a while, but got 95% of it out in the metal, and the rest in filler! I did weld the holes shut.

I found this place the other day. http://www.automotiveinteriors.com/AMSC_PART_DEC2015.pdf I have not used them and do not know of anyone who has. They did answer my email promptly and provided me the above link for availability and pricing information.

After another full night of trying to remove that darn plunger I have to ask if there is an alternate way of getting at it. I removed the starter for an all access pass to the general area, which helped. I then used an easy out, which grabbed, but it wouldn't budge. Can I potentially get at it in any way if I take off the oil filter tube that is directly above it? How about the pan itself? I suppose my best bet is grabbing one of those flexible drill attachments and try try again. Or Dynamite... does anybody know how to make Dynamite?