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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/01/2016 in all areas

  1. I was finally able to find enough time to do some spraying today. Got the bottom of the coupe, rear inner fender wells and one inside rear fender sprayed with tinted bedliner. Seems to have come out pretty well. Will do the other rear and both inner front fenders tomorrow if the creek don't rise and the boss doesn't have anything that in critical for me to do.
    2 points
  2. My brother in-law made this bench for me. He used an old bed head board (found in a fence for a quick repair), one locally fabricated rear fender from B2B, front panel from B2B pickup box, and destroyed tailgate from B1C .
    1 point
  3. My very good friend and road trip partner Jerry has just joined the Mopar gang with purchase of this 1950 Plymouth from an aging local club member. It's probably the sweetest-running and smoothest-driving car of that vintage I have ever experienced. Original engine and radio, overdrive, first rate steering and brakes, very nice recent interior and woodgrain. Previous owner drove it to Virginia and back a few years (and only a few miles) ago. Of course it hasn't near the patina of my D25...
    1 point
  4. I like that! Recycling or re-purposing at it's finest!
    1 point
  5. Lockport and Selkirk are also communities in New York State (several hundred miles apart). Got me all confused....
    1 point
  6. additional information - Tailgate Letter Details
    1 point
  7. Frank has just described exactly what happen to my Goodyears several times. When you jack it up, put the jack under the differential and idle the engine in reverse while holding a piece of chalk as steadily as you can against the outer sidewalls to mark any wobble.
    1 point
  8. You are right about the suburban not being interchangeable! DUH- I own a 50 suburban and a 50 4 dr.! Book does show that though for the 50 sub. Shows a different # in this book for 51 and 52 suburbans guess that they miss typed for the 50 and I was going along with it. Try measuring from the frame to the outer edge of the rear fenders from side to side? DJ
    1 point
  9. Although I wouldn't expect it to correct itself after driving a while, a "tread separation" or rupture of some of the cord will generate the symptoms you describe especially if the shake came on quickly. If it says"Firestone" on the side, it's more likely to be so. (just my experience/opinion, of course). Jack it up one wheel at a time, spin 'em and watch for a twist in the tread or have someone follow you and watch for it. Frank
    1 point
  10. HM Elliott in North Carolina: http://www.hmelliottcoatings.com/coatings.html I had my skirts done in their HM-30 coating because my machinist usually goes that route on engine builds and I liked the appearance and feel of it. Just basically a friction reducer...it's a few tenths thick. They also have a buildable coating version of this if tolerances need to be taken up. My machinist also coats bearings but only on high reving motors. I don't think bearing coating would make any difference on our flatties. Any yes, ARP fasteners on a few select applications makes a difference. I think I paid about $150 for the fasteners for my engine - head, main caps, and cam gear. I wish I had used them for the rod caps and flywheel too!
    1 point
  11. Sweet ride. I learned to drive in a 1950 Plymouth.
    1 point
  12. Tried to attach this as a second photo to the original post, but no luck until now.
    1 point
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