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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/26/2016 in all areas

  1. I put the headliner into my coupe some years back. It came out OK, but is no where close to as good as a professional job. If I were to do it again I would take it a professional trimmer. It seems to be the kind of job that takes practice and experience; like installing drywall. The first wall of drywall I put up and finished looked like s..t. By the time I worked my way around the room the fourth wall looked pretty good. Maybe you should volunteer to put headliners in three friends cars, then go back and do yours.
    3 points
  2. I just do not get why people don't just run the stock distributor. I run mine for ages without any issues. If a set of points goes bad or a condenser goes bad it take about 15 minutes to swap. Even on the side of the road. A set of points costs $8. I have a spare dizzy all set up and in the trunk. I can swap that alone in about 5 minutes. I lost count of how many times a car at a meet or club drive had an issue with an electronic conversion. My car starts great and runs great. Like I said, I just don't get it. James.
    2 points
  3. The best way to replace a headliner is to pay a pro to do it. I will even go so far as to say it is the only sane way to replace a headliner.
    2 points
  4. It is located in Clear Brook Virginia I had listed it on this forum....but have not received a single inquiry
    1 point
  5. 1 point
  6. File Name: Bellhousing to transmission gasket File Submitter: 48ply1stcar File Submitted: 12 Apr 2016 File Category: Instructions, Manuals & Templates I bought this gasket on Ebay and I will probably only use it as a pattern. The height if the gasket is 6 11/16" and with where marked is 6 7/8". I hope this is useful. Click here to download this file
    1 point
  7. Apparently you've never seen a Canadian beer brand disagreement...or someone try to make us drink American beer LOL
    1 point
  8. Very rarely have I ever seen it get heated on here; this is the nicest group of folks I've found online (This isn't a B-body or E-body forum, lol) But when opinions flare up, I get out the popcorn.
    1 point
  9. Update: Will torque the head follow the next cup of coffee which is brewing now. ". . . . that ends well!" The end stud twisted which I removed the manifold so had to drill it out, hard to hit center and I didn't so . . . had to go in with a larger bit and a larger tap. But, no problem the mount holes are a bit over sized. Well I couldn't get one of the two long bolts to start, so removed all and found out one of those had been drilled out and tapped a larger size also. So tapped clean each hole and then remounted all. I snugged the center two bolts first, then the nuts with the centering washers, and then the remainder. I worked back of forth always only taking up the new slack until . . . . all is now tight. WHEW! thought I might have a major problem. Conclusion, a little patience can sometimes solve a lot of problems. Coffee is ready.
    1 point
  10. I went to a local welding shop and had one built, I just cut the filler neck out of mine and I welded it back into place once I had everything fitted, but no reason a good shop couldn't reproduce your tank, with the exception of it being square, rather then rounded. It was the cheaper option at the time too, and they can also drill the hole for the stock sender too...if it's still any good
    1 point
  11. "Ethyl"? The youngsters wouldn't get it. But they can Google "Ethyl gasoline". GM and Standard Oil of New Jersey formed the Ethyl Gasoline Corporation to market tetraethyllead (it reads easier as tetra ethyl lead,or TEL), which they had DuPont manufacture. I remember, "Fill it up with Ethyl." Then, with the advent of catalytic converters, the newer cars came with a narrower gas filler opening, so that leaded gasoline could not be used, which would destroy the effectiveness of the catalytic converter. But there was a market for small funnels, for pouring the cheaper leaded gas into the newer cars. Later, the hit fit the shan, as the gummint got wise to the lead pollution and completely banned leaded gasoline.
    1 point
  12. grind the corners round.
    1 point
  13. I'll have to look into the bushings and see if they can be tapped. I didn't know they made short zerk fittings, that'd be handy. I made a pretty good score today. Someone told me of a fellow who had an NOS Arrow headlight conversion for my car. The best part was that he was only 20 minutes from my house. This conversion kit allows you to switch over to round sealed beam headlights. I'm real happy i got to pick these up, i think they are pretty rare. The little bit of googling i did the other day didn't turn up much info. I've attached some pictures. -Chris
    1 point
  14. Finally got the engine back this past friday and am very happy with the way it turned out. #6 is sleeved and pretty and she is ready to go back in. Thought you all would want an update.
    1 point
  15. Just as a note, if you do do a MC swap on a rear drum set-up and use an adjustable valve you MUST use a residual valve in the feed line to be back...I think it's a 5lb you need? If you don't the cups on the wheel cylinders will leak..they need constant pressure to keep from leaking, on a rear disc this doesn't matter...and in the stock valve I used, it's built into the valve.
    1 point
  16. I've had a few hard stops for deer and dumba$$es, and so far been really happy...but again I used a jeep rear drum axle and a mc off a drum Cherokee and it seems to do well....I can tell my front brakes lock first if I hammer on loose gravel on the pavement. Nothing wrong with an adjustable valve, you can definitely fine tune..but after 6 years with mine, I'm pretty comfortable with it. I wish my 67 Monaco brakes felt s good...I always feel like I'm on the floor with it, but Chrysler just had crappy feeling brakes in that era
    1 point
  17. Well I thought so too. Until we did a bunch of testing. I think it is real easy to get fooled by disc brakes ....especially on an archaic old truck. They will feel nicer than the stock brakes. Fortunately a buddy of mine had convinced me to put a Wilwood adjustable valve in so that I could fine tune the reaction from front to rear. He and I spent 3 or 4 hours testing it on dry and wet pavement one weekend. Initially I thought it felt very good with no tendency to lock up at all. And this was before we made any adjustments. In other words with the valve wide open. In reality the rears (which are larger than the fronts) were picking more than the fronts. It was almost impossible to tell this from inside the cab.......but watching it from the sidelines you could see it clearly. Especially on wet pavement. And when my buddy did a couple of extreme panic stops on wet pavement in front of me I knew he was right all along. If you think about it this it really isn't so strange. Even with a M/C that is the exact one that was matched up in production with the calipers on the rear axle. The front calipers are from a earlier GM car.....and the whole package probably has slightly different hydraulic volumes and certainly different weight distribution than either of the donor vehicles. It makes sense to build it so you are able to adjust for this. You don't want to find out the hard way on a real panic stop that you have done all this work but it really isn't right. Jeff
    1 point
  18. Be very careful with the discs when grinding with them. A bit too much side pressure or flexing of the disc can make them explode and it hurts when the pieces make contact- a lot!
    1 point
  19. Swapping out the dash pods? Nice progress. Just no way to hurry the welding process. Glad you're posting the pics here as well. I and others don't do FB
    1 point
  20. 1 point
  21. The screw is there to give you access to the end of the shaft to guide it into the square hole in the latch mechanism. With the door handle off you can feed a piece of soft iron wire through the screw hole and into the threaded hole in the end of the square shaft. that will guide the shaft into the square hole so you can get the handle back on without removing the interior door panel.
    1 point
  22. I have no idea what you mean except for some posts like made by Fargo which are personal attacks, which no...they don't belong. So far this thread is not in any way out of hand..it's good info back and forth on transmission info, and people are going to disagree, but as long as they make valid points in why, it's still good info. The worst thing this forum does is bully new members and remove threads that have good info in them, I hope that those kind of actions can be stayed as we all move forward....and I'm not saying the mods are bullying....some members do and it seems to be allowed and keeps people from the site. Regardless....this isn't on topic, just like the post quoting me...
    1 point
  23. Just so it is clear....I honestly don't have any problem with women pursuing their interests....whatever that may be. In fact I encourage it. I have daughters and they are both heavily involved in the science's. But in this day of extended equality one thing still needs to be considered. Men and Women are very different animals. No matter what laws we have in place ...or how much we love each other....we will always look at things like working on a car a little differently. And that is OK with me......as long as I have my shop to retreat to. Jeff
    1 point
  24. I agree with Jeff but also want to add your mate has to show interest and enjoy going for rides and car shows with you. Then when your wife shows interest in another Dodge you can buy it and just say " But, I bought for your Dear"
    1 point
  25. At the risk of sounding politically incorrect........why would you want to disturb one of the last domains we have? We've been happily married 38 years and I love my wife. One of her attractive features is that she is smart enough to allow me some space of my own. Would have never worked peacefully this long the other way.......Just sayin' Jeff
    1 point
  26. Very funny, and these people think minimum wage should be $15.
    1 point
  27. I have seen a few videos like this. They don't really prove anything. When you do a conversion on an older vehicle you need to be able to "balance" the braking system to the vehicle. By that I am saying that it all needs to be adjusted to the particular load and suspension it has to work with. Otherwise along with quick stops you might get a few other nasty surprises during panic braking. I have thought about adding power braking to my 52 B-3-C. I already have 4 wheel disc brakes and a dual reservoir M/C. At first I thought it might be nice to have less pedal effort. But now that I have had a chance to get used to driving the truck I am not so sure it would be of any real benefit. I think that at the very least one would have to readjust the proportioning and do a fair amount of testing to make certain the vehicle was capable of going into a panic stop with out getting squirrelly or trying to swap ends. I guess what I am trying to say is that updating the braking system has a lot more to it than just buying a kit. Jeff
    1 point
  28. In my teenage years I was a street racer of the first order. If it could be bought off of a shelf and had been hyped in a Hot Rod magazine, I wanted it. During the early '50's I ran a performance shop for awhile. We installed split manifolds and dual carbs on about every brand of car ever made. Did the split manifold/dual exhaust ad any horse power to the engine? I would doubt it, however, it did sound like no power and therefore gave the vehicle owner bragging rights. The addition of dual carbs and a split manifold/headers, on an inlne engine, generally made the engine run cold and rich because of the absence of the heat riser. As I became older and more skilled, I learned that more cubic inches, better breathing, better ignition coupled with the multiple carbs and dual exhaust, did result in a better, if not great running engine. How well an engine can be made to run is in direct relationship to the size of a persons bank account.. In 1951 I installed a GMC 270 with dual exhaust, larger carb and a Mallory ignition in my '38 Chevy 2dr sdn, there was not a car in Eastern Idaho that could catch that Chevy, that is until the son of a local Ford dealer had his dad drop an Old's 303 Rocket into his '36 Ford coupe.. Cubic inches wins every time.. A nice little trick on early Plyms, is to drop a Chrysler Spitfire 6 cyln with a ;37-38 Chrysler OD trans into the car. The Spitfire engine is 250 CID and will fit the '48 and earlier cars by simply moving the radiator to the front of the core support.
    1 point
  29. Pertronics better be good. I just ordered an igniter and coil. My plug wires are not solid wire core, so I should be OK. But we'll see what the guys' comments are. (Comments on those pesky apostrophes: " guys' " = of or pertaining to the guys. " guy's " = of or pertaining to just one guy. " Bob love's Sally " = apostrophes sprinkled on, like pepper. People think it looks better with apostrophes (apostrophe's) sprinkled on. You Belgian people probably know all this well. After all, you have to converse with the British, who are quite proper. This rant is for those of us Americans, who didn't learn grammar in what used to be called grammar school. End of rant.)
    1 point
  30. Beautiful car! Got mine cleaned and polished. Boy its been a while since I have worked on single stage paint. Just did a quick hand seal with Zanio Z3 I believe.
    1 point
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