Leaderboard

Yes it's listed on their instructions and/or web site not to use solid core wires. Also never use a ballast on electronic ignition. Need good wiring with good tight clean connections. Electronics doesn't like low voltage. Could have a bad one. I'd get it replaced under warranty and give a try. Most ppl have no trouble with the Pertronixs. Remember, a Pertronix kit won't fix a worn out distributor. It won't fix a worn or broken vac advance or worn or broken mech advance. Earl

hi my fuel tank conversion using a cheap Nissan navara tank

Suggest you use a sharpie to mark your front brake shoes with cross marks then drive for a bit. Remove the drums for wear mark inspection. This will show the wear pattern and correct drum to shoe adjustment.

hi folk.. got just as frustrated but found the following solution . my fuel tank conversion using a cheap Nissan navara tank http://p15-d24.com/topic/34230-nissan-navara-fuel-tank-to-fit-dodge-b2b/#entry345539

Wow, last post to this thread was in November. Today I'm installing a Signalstat 900 turn signal. Just spent some time under the rear bumper working wires. I am drawing a total schematic for the truck as I go. And I'm also checking all connectors for looseness and for lock washers. What is a bit disconserting is not the wiring, but the growing damage from the fire. The truck it self did NOT burn save the front driverside fender. That aside, the truck just got a very severe roasting and excessive smoke damage. Yet It is obvious that the frame below the bed has deteriorated and that means all else as well. Will get it driver dependable, then will remove the bed, clean and protect the rear frame, et. al. Then the doghouse will be disassembled cleaned, etc., and protected as well. What Tim, Dave, and others have said proves valid. Fire is not a friendly force, its damage or lack thereof is deceiving. More as I proceed. The immediate goal is to drive up to the Sequoia National Part Big Trees with my grand kids, next week to validate that the truck will make the trip to the BBQ on the 2nd.

Ok, it looks like there will be 7 coming in our little group this year - 4 regulars and 3 newbies. Here's the breakdown: regulars - me (B2B); Charlie (B3B); Rudy ('48 Ford PU); Bob ('53 Chevy PU); newbies - Noe (B3B); Glenn ('57 Chevy PU); Ed ('56 Ford PU).Should make for a nice little caravan pulling into Tim's...

And when you're pulling the rear drums, try to cradle it as you remove it so that the inner seal doesn't drag on the threaded portion of the axle tubes. Same when reinstalling it. If you haven't gotten parts yet, all 4 cylinders were available from NAPA. Same p/n's for left front and rears. Same thing for the right side. They're mirror images of each other. I can look up the p/n's if you need them. Mike

Boring a 218 +.060 does not make it a 251 far from it. Sorry if that was what I implied. You are only using 251 pistons when you bore .060 and beyond. The stroke of a 218 is 4 1/16. a 251 is 4 1/2 , so the increase in displacement is largely due to the longer stroke. In my 51 Plymouth I have bored it to just under 3 1/2 which is 3 7/16 + .060 and it uses the 251 crank and rods so the displacement is now 260 cubic inches. With 8.5 to 1 compression it is a very good performer and at 50 000 miles of use, it still runs like a champ ! Should I ever replace this engine I will go to 3 7/16 but use the original 218 crank and rods because I like the way these engines can be "wound up ". Chances are though, I will not ever need to change it out. It also has Overdrive, a VERY pleasing option for highway travel. One should never believe what someone says about his sex life or his gas mileage, but I can get over 25 mpg on a highway run. As for the other, no comment.

If it is a Canadian car, the serial number will begin with a 9. This number is found on the left front door pillar just above the hinge. There will be an aluminum tag on the firewall with the body number paint and trim codes. Also it will have the 25 inch 218. It will also use Spicer cross and roller U-jointe same as Chev later used in the 55-6-7 models and there are a number of other differences. The picture you posted shows a pretty nice car. They are really nice cars to drive, I have had several, the present one being a convertible.

Well, the truth is we likely should have had a pile of those bumper stickers made I guess and lol made slightly smaller because they don't fit in a standard mailing envelope. We do sell them, their $5 each & shipping. Or drop by Spring Carlisle or AoK HQ in Fertigs, PA or my place in Campbellville Ontario. Tim

Well.. your 5.7 litre hemi depending on its year, has a rev limiter built into the system. When they 1st came out it was set at 5570, and I think its now something like 5800 depending on the application. You can chip that hemi, void the warranty and catch up with the RPM of the worlds fastest dinosaur. RPM is a funny thing and it depends what the application is. Top Fuel cars are a classic example where they have actually dialed back the rpm, as they shortened the racing from 1/4 mile and they start to talk about how many times the engine turns over the course of the race. In terms of the most powerful on the planet, I cant say that because I just don't know. I also know we could actually pull more power out of a flathead and God willing, down the road that may come to be. We have a special blower intake in prototype form, and we have only started to play with the food (fuel) that feeds the Raptor! lol In terms of my 1949, I also cant make that claim, although I have definitely not seen a more powerful one out on the street, nor has any of the AoK boys, although to be honest that was never our goal. It was more to take a flathead, make it streetable, and able to operator on "pump gas". If I was willing to shift to Octane booster and nitros which I actually have the ability to introduce into the engine, but I was looking for something with a little longer fuse ! Small block chevy's.... lol.. Lets just say we love being the under dog and love the element of surprise. Your correct on doing more milder builds, although we have made available the cam in my car in both the USA small block and the Canadian big block and while a little lumpy at idle you don't have to go completely wild to use them. Going from what your mentioning, to get that last bit of performance gets expensive. Just take pistons for example. Take what a set of overbore pistons cost and they are actually pretty reasonable. Unfortunately its getting limited to cast pistons instead of forged but still very serviceable. We wanted big over bore forged pistons and modern rings. That road lead us to Venolia . Next thing you know we ordered up several sets of big bore (125 thou over the stock 3 7/16" bore). We made them smaller, lighter, with specialty coating, 3 rings and plasma moly rings. They were, lol pricy! Now do they outperform 4 ring cast pistons, oh for sure. Is it worth the cost... lol.. I am sure the AoK boys wives don't think so. But for the Boys.. why do it... easy, because we can! Had we found forged 125 thou pistons which a decade ago I could easily order, we likely wouldn't have went crazy and to be honest its not a path I would recommend for very many clients and definitely would suggest disclosing the cost to your significant other. But if you want them.. Here is where to buy them and were happy to hand over our specs and order information. http://www.venolia.com/ Finally, were looking forward to seeing you as well, and Ill finish off with a new version of something a number of the AoK boys family have attached to vehicles !

Got the heads back....working on the little stuff....pulling the cab soon. My brother measured the frame for a flatbed he's building fer it. Made a "discussion" video about pulling a cab off the frame...... cab video boy oh boy..... 48D

hi mate; think it is a nissan navara str 03 duel cab Has to be petrol rather then diesel tank pic is shown here

I like the look of it. I am into the idea of utilising cheap modern parts - I recently used a 3.0 turbo diesel hilux radiator instead of the $1100 I was being quoted to re core the original.