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I don`t know, if this interesting for someone of you ...?! When I run my truck the first times, I had trouble to start the engine: bad when cold, terrible when it was hot. Did cause really violent misfires when I tried to restart it (2 times at the petrol station ... but this is an other story ...). I began to research which parts are responsible / needed for cold and warm start and how they work. I became aware that my intake/exhaust system was missing the heat riser valve mechanism. Everthing was removed, shaft bores closed by welding. Since parts are rare here (I`m living in Germany) and the valve mechanism sometimes seems to stuck in place (I have read it, but I don`t know if that is true), I decided to develop a do it yourself solution. To force the valve to open/close when I want to have it, I assumed that it could be connected with the function of the choke. Cold: choke closed + valve open. Warm no choke + valve closed. And it works, never had trouble again ! Attached some pics. Have fun ! Jan P.S.:That helped me to see how the valve works -> http://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/tech/heat_riser_adviser.html

So the sleeve is installed and the axle shafts look ok. I pulled it back apart to install the neoprene inner seals and will replace the bearings while I am at it.

I'm confused as to the instructions. After breaking down last week (bad coil, no spark) the wife ordered me the pertronix kit and coil as it was on my goodies list. I'm trying to install it but I'm confused as to the coil +/- Orientation and the connection of the wires. Here are the included instructions. (48 251 positive ground) And here is my current coil and wiring configuration. In the picture the positive side of the coil is on the left. On the negative (right) side of the coil that single green wire connects to a plate in the distrubitor. The other two on the left (positive side of the coil) I have no idea where they go. The instructions say only two wires should be attached to the coil at the end. Please help as I'm lost and have no idea where to go. Oh and the obligatory side of the road pic

http://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/tech/brakes.html Check out the articles under the Resources menu item at the top of the page.

If you do not find what you are looking for the rear axle from a Jeep Cherokee is a pretty easy swap in. They are available in 3.73.

Oooooh....dirty pictures..lol.

I can say that Berrymans parts dip is slightly stronger than weak tea. That stuff USED to be a heavy duty solvent that could do serious damage to your skin if used without proper gloves. Not in the EPA correct times we have now. Even the carb cleaner that Wallymart used to sell, it's own brand, was pretty good stuff. It has now been denutered. I have found some success using 'Oxy Clean' mixed with hot water. It will get the carbon soft enough to use a brush to clean up the part after soaking. Works excellent on plastic parts as well. Cleaned up my shifter and cowl vent knobs to look like new. I've tried the 50/50 atf and acetone. I know that the acetone will evaporate and leave just the atf sitting in the oil can I use to apply it to things that are stuck. Seems like the atf/diesel would work better from that standpoint.

Ok Brendt.....so I showed Steph your post.....and she goes "if you trade all your trucks, could you get a convertible?" The wedding is on hold. Hahahaha.......jk. ​ 48D

A couple of pics to start with!

swschenk, I am 1 who has no problem with you asking questions on here whether it has been archived or not. You can also use the "search" feature, but if at that point you are not satisfied, please feel free to post and ask your question. You will find some who take offence to those who do not try and answer there own concerns first Via the search process, just to give you a "heads Up". I am not normally of that mindset. So welcome to the Forum, and good luck with your mission on getting this engine free, please update and post on your progress, so some future member, might find it archived to help them with a similar situation......good luck

Being a farmer, I've always had a healthy mix of cars and trucks around, but I never really thought about a convertible. I think that 41 could help me deal with the messy hair...

I was thinkin' you meant petticoats.

We just had the best time. Spaced on the group shot because we were like a bunch of chatty school girls. Everyone was genuinely interested in getting to know each other. We'll definitely do it again. I'm thinkin should be on the West side of town so's guys out that way don't have so far to drive. Re the request for names w/faces

The use of think and Ford in the same sentence is an oxymoron.

Don, No backlight for night time driving. They can build them that way if you request it. I did not. Todd, It's an easy calculation. RPM = (MPH x Gear Ratio x 336)/Tire Diameter. But I cheat and use a gear ratio calculator that's part of the Garage Buddy app I have on my phone. Mark, Isn't Minnesota the land of 2 seasons? Winter and 2 months where you can't play Hockey.

You have flammable and combustible mixed up. Evans, as is antifreeze is combustible which means that either in a misting situation and it must have a source of ignition to combust. and a hot header will not ignite it either. If you pour Evans or regular antifreeze on the ground and throw a lit match in it, it will go out. We have been around for over 25 years and have never had anyone who uses this coolant have any fires. The reason most sanctioning bodies ban the use of coolants whether it us or a 50/50 mix is clean up if it's spilled, not fire .

I hope I can shed some light here.............I work for Evans and have been there for over 10 yrs. Yes ,water is a better dissipator of heat....but water also boils at 212 degF and with a 15 lb cap it boosts boiling to 257 degF. One thing most do not understand is what the temp gauge is actually telling them. Most sensors for the temp gauge are located near the t-stat housing which is also near the outlet for the top hose to the radiator.........so as the coolant flows past the sensor it registers the temp back to the gauge. So what you are seeing on the gauge is the coolant temp at its hottest point and it is also leaving the motor. You are not gauging temps of coolant in the block. If the pump, fan and rad are doing there job, temps coming back into the bottom hose should be 15-20 deg cooler but you aren't gauging the coolant coming back only going out.I tell all my customers that if the gauge is reading a higher temp, which it can in some instances, that internally the motor is 30-40 degrees cooler but you are also not gauging that. I had it in my 600hp pro street car for 9 yrs and never had a problem When a motor with a 50/50 mix starts to run hot ,what is happening is the internal metal temps are turning the water into steam pockets. Those steam vapors cannot recodense fast enough back to a liquid to help pull heat away from the metal. Consequently the motor starts to build temp. Evans coolant stays a liquid and pulls more heat away from internal metals because it won't form steam vapors. It eliminates corrosion in the system along with no more electroylsis and it is a lifetime coolant. Evans coolant also does not generate pressure so stress is gone on the hoses , gaskets and seals. I had a customer call me and ask if he put our coolant in would his car run cooler...........I told him bluntly..no.........he said his hot rod has a blown/injected 1200 hp motor and runs 230 all the time. I went on to explain what I just did above here. He bought the coolant and put it in............one month later he called and said he proved my point of what I told him. He said he had the car out on a 90 deg day. Was just out cruising and the temp went to 230, no hotter, but also no cooler. he said he was not worried because our coolant can handle higher temps. But he did want to prove to himself what I told him about a cooler motor and not rely on what the gauge is reading. With the motor running and gauge reading 230 he got his digital heat gun out and started going over the block and heads..............he told me the readings were 180-195..gauge 230. I don't tell people to buy our coolant because its the best thing since sliced bread or that by putting ours in will bring your temps down to 180 sitting in traffic with the AC on on a 100 deg day because thats not how we work. But I do like to let people know HOW we work and to understand what you're seeing on the gauge and to understand the cooling system alittle better. We also are all hot rod people so we understand. I have had many customers call me with cooling problems asking if they use ours will it cure there overheating. I tell them no .............what I do is troubleshoot the system to help them bring the temps under control with the 50/50 mix. Then once they get the system under control, then give me a call. I could go on and on but I just had to chime in here so all here could get a better idea of what we do and how we work.

just call it skill and smile!

These are for the Gemma Steering Box used on my 51 B3B. 1. The larger of the two are for the cover plate where the adjusting screw and oil fill hole reside. Only one gasket .033 in thick (approx) is required. The cross hairs help to locate the hole punch for 1/4" bolts. 2. Page 409 Plate 19-2 depicts five shims of two thickness .005 in and .010 are used to adjust the amount of end play in the steering box worm gear. Removing one of the shims will increase the pressure that the outer bearing cup places on the cage and roller part of the bearing. Hard to believe that 005 in can make a difference, but it does. The inner hole is 5/32" to accomodate again a 1/4" bolt. The pdf prints should be full size. I'm not certain what "manage attachments" on the P15-D24 forum will do to them, but feel free to PM me and I'll email attach them if you need them. Hopefully, I should be able to cut the new gasket and shims and finalize the steering box assembly tomorrow. I will use synthetic oil of some sort. CJ's explained that the top of the unit is designed not to be leak-proof (where the shaft meets the housing at the dust washer). The oil is to be filled once the unit is installed in the truck. CJ's said "The reason you will find Grease not Oil in the housing is that "no one ever drains and re-fills the steering box". "If the gasket and shims are done properly the unit will not leak". P.S. Gene, I did find a "modern" dust washer at CJ's. Merle thanks for "00" Grease research. Amsoil makes some but I'm still not decided. I will look at what Redline and others have to offer. Who did suggest Corn Head Lube? What is the weight of that product and I think it's a John Deere product. Hank Cover Plate.pdf Shims.pdf