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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/20/2015 in all areas

  1. When you "hot link" someone else's picture you've lost control. They can remove that photo, or change it, or replace it with pornography, or an ad for their website--just anything. If you save a photo you can upload directly or host it yourself. Then you have control over the situation. When you "hot link", It will also cause someone else's website to serve up that pic, whenever someone opens the thread here. They provide a service but you don't see the ads on their site to "pay" them back. You've essentially "stolen" their service of that photo to you, and to anyone else here who looks at the thread. I have seen cases of this where the offended site owner swaps out that cute photo for some really offensive nightmare which you would NOT want your kids to see here.
    3 points
  2. I had my '69 Dart for more than 20 years and sold it today to a nice fellow from West Virginia. Hate to see it go, but I decided I needed to get down to one antique car. Garage space and time being the deciding factors. I am keeping the '41 Dodge and hope to have more time to enjoy, drive and upgrade it now. So here is my Dart GT loaded up and headed to West Virginia.
    2 points
  3. You are correct. . . Just copy the photo and then repost it. Looks like the size limit GTK has in place should impose no hardships. I do hot link, but only from my own site. So I retain control and I don't mind having my server provide the bandwidth for that. Not related to this, but I do mind that some of my articles on my website have been copied verbatim with no credit for their source and now some search engines assume that all copies, including mine, shouldn't be listed as they are plagiarized. Please, if you find and interesting (non-forum) page on the web, give a link to it rather than copy the text verbatim.
    2 points
  4. Brent; Hang tough man. There will be a solution.....and you will find it. I went through the same kind of stuff with my build. What worked for me was to concentrate on getting down to bare metal and repairing the worst problems while I searched for a painter. During the process I decided that most of the little blemishes and scars would just get cleaned up and left in place. I finally found a nearby paint shop that agreed to paint it apart for $2500. They even took care of a few areas of damage that I wanted fixed and were beyond my limited skills. They had it for about 6 weeks and used it as fill in work. I am very happy with the results. It is clean and rust free but still shows sign of it's life as a work truck. I am good with that because that is exactly what it is.....an old work truck. Do as much as you can yourself. Identify the problems beyond your skill set and find help just for that. One tip I will share is that light colors like the one I chose don't show the blemishes as much as dark colors. Go for it....and stay at it and it will work out. No surrender! Jeff
    2 points
  5. Old cars, cars in general, were the bond that kept Dad and I close. I lost Dad last April, I think of him a lot, but letting go of the car has brought back a ton of memories. Bitttersweet memories, but it is all good. Dad never really understood why I kept the '41 and the '69. He liked to buy them, fix them up and sell them to get money for the next project. We did quite a few that way. I kept the Dart because it was the car of my dreams in my youth. I had a Road Runner, a Duster, a 'Cuda, etc, but I always wanted a 1969 Dart. The 1941 Dodge was the largest undertaking Dad and I ever did, far from a perfect car and far from what most would want. It has more of Dad and I in it than anything ever should, so when it came time to make a decision on which one to let go of it was an easy decision. Thanks Dad for helping me decide what to do yet again!
    2 points
  6. Possibly a 2 bbl carb and for sure a milled head.
    2 points
  7. Probably better to start a new thread for a different transmission, even if there were some comments about non T-5 transmissions here.
    1 point
  8. - While I have confidence in my old stock Dodge making a trip without a serious mechanical failure,if the trip is more than say 50 miles from home my wife will always have "more pressing things to do" .
    1 point
  9. I plan to be there for the Pasadena drive on the 31st along with some of the other local Plymouth guys...should be fun!
    1 point
  10. fedoragent: My only concern is that from the first picture it looks as if the break line might be resting on top of the metal rear shock attachment bolt and is is rubbing any where along the path to the rear. I would double check to make sure it is supported and not have a change to rub agains t anything metal and wear a hole in the line. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com
    1 point
  11. VINTAGEPIC: fresh flatheads in transit over yonder
    1 point
  12. If this is your first time, then you are a natural!
    1 point
  13. Dads are neat people and funny at the same time. When I bought my Plymouth twenty some odd years ago, we lived in Central NY about two plus hours north of my Dad. He came up one weekend shortly after we had the old Plymouth up and running. I couldn't wait to take him for a ride, well, when he saw the car his reply was. "Bob, what the ........ are you going to do with this, they were junk when new and still junk today. He never really thought of cars other than an evil necessity. Before the weekend was over I asked him if he wanted to go for a ride, he smiled and said yes, so off we went. About two or three years later we moved down here about five miles from Dad. He would always smile and go for a ride with me when ever asked until he got too sick to do so. He has been gone almost four and a half years and is missed,
    1 point
  14. When I purchased my '33 back in '73 the New York paperwork had the engine number. In '74 when I moved to Maryland I asked the clerk at the DMV if they could use the serial number instead. I handed her a scrap of paper where I'd written down the engine, serial and body numbers I had found on the car. She asked me to wait and then disappeared for about 45 minutes. When she came back she said the numbers all matched and there would be no problem having the Maryland paperwork use the serial number. At the time I figured she just took a long coffee break using the research as an excuse. But now I think she might have had someone contact the Chrysler Historical (or what ever the equivalent was back then) and actually checked that the numbers matched. When I moved to California in '78 they accepted the serial number from the Maryland paperwork but did have a fellow at the DMV look at the car to make sure the serial number was actually on the car. For what its worth, I've seen some really, really old copies of California registration forms that had fields for both the engine number and car serial number. So back in the day they might have been tracking both. I am guessing they probably dropped one of those fields and converted the other to VIN when VIN numbers came along losing the correlation between serial and engine numbers.
    1 point
  15. Something to consider as to vibration on your drive shaft could also be the rear bearing in your gear box. This is often overlooked for the Ujoints.
    1 point
  16. I like the idea, we have some very powdery snow here now, so not driving her right now. Not a bad idea, she would look good I think...LOL
    1 point
  17. Over yonder is down under from here.
    1 point
  18. My father had one that color combo. Not sure what year it was,maybe a 70, as he had it when I was off to college and first year of work. was a 318 torque flight. At the same time my mother had one of those Swingers with the flowered vinyl roof.
    1 point
  19. MMMMMMM kindergarten paste good.......
    1 point
  20. Sad day - to part with a car you're particularly fond of and I suppose a decision we may all have to deal with down the road...
    1 point
  21. OK, but I used kindergarten paste to hold them together
    1 point
  22. beautiful dart.i downsized 2 years ago,just from 2 cars to one. sometimes I wish I hadn't then sometimes I am glad I did.today I drove my one car. that's all. capt den
    1 point
  23. That had to have been painful. I do know what you are going through,though. I am starting to thin my herd,too. Just flat out too old to fix and maintain them all.
    1 point
  24. I have a '41 Dodge cpe and my Dad had a '48 New Yorker cpe. His had the straight eight and semi-automatic transmission, mine a flat six and Fluid Drive. They were both stock with the exception that his had radial tires. First impression, the hood on that Chrysler was a mile long and the car over all was huge compared to the Dodge. The eight easily out powered the six cylinder. The 48 steered, rode and handled much better but I don't know how much was tires. It was a quieter ride, obviously an upgrade from a '41 Dodge to a '48 Chrysler. The 48 ran with modern traffic on the highway better than the '41 but was even slower accelerating from a stop than the '41. I never cared for the semi-automatic, but that was just personnel preference. The car was, as I said, huge and it felt that way driving it, but it steered and handled very light. I have never driven a 48 Plymouth, but it was definitely a couple steps up the ladder from a 41 Dodge. Build quality was similar, both very good, but everything on the Chrysler was massive, including brakes, engine, transmission and body. I loved to drive it, but I preferred the Dodge.
    1 point
  25. Where is "over yonder" and why are all those trucks there?
    1 point
  26. As Ed pointed out, Dave did paint FEF, but I did pound out a ton of dents prior to hand-off and TODD will also be more learning. You can do it. And I agree lots of body shops only want to do insurance jobs.
    1 point
  27. Hi Fargo, I,REALLY, REALLY like my T-5 conversion in my '49 (1st series) D-24 Dodge Business Coupe! I guess because of my long-time auto industry data processing background - I'm a 'Bill-of-Material' type of guy. I develope project goals/objectives, define completion steps, and start collecting parts to finish them. Although I'm primarily a Musclecar restoration person (I finished my original '65 Plymouth A-990 aluminum-head Hemi lightweight restoration in March of '14), I had wanted a 'fat fendered' Mopar flathead for sometime. I purchased my California built coupe in the fall of '12. During high school I was given my Grandma's 39,000 mile D-24 Deluxe 4-door - so I was familar with the sedate perforamce envelope of a 230 Fluid-Drive vehicle. My goal was to have a very road worthy flathead powered Mopar that would kick-the-ass of Ford flathead street cars. So, my project has evolved into an upward compatible three step program, The first being the TRANSMISSION/AXLE, second the 12V CONVERSION, and lastly the ENGINE REPLACEMENT. The first two having been sucessfully completed,and I'm now in-process on 265 development program. STEP 1: Replace Fluid-Drive 3-speed and original rear-axle assembly. I did extensive web-site reviews, and in particular Don Coatney's efforts on this one, I had a a lot of conversations with George Asche, Paul Curtis and Tom Langdon about the best approaches and combinations. I've known Mr. Curtis and Mr. Langdon for over 40 years, as we're all members of the Michigan Hot Rod Association. Here's what I came up with; TRANSMISSION P-15 Bellhousing, clutch fork, and flywheel. Paul Curtis transmission adaptor kit Paul Curtis: www.pjplymouth@netscape.net Mustang T-5/S10 Hybrid transmission Earl Johnson www.hjhnracing@msn.com '95 V-6 Mustang World Class Main Case (3.35, 1.93, 1.29, 1.00 ratios). This was chosen because the Ford case 'packages' better with the P-15 bellhousing, the ideal gear spacing, and that it's input shaft is the longest of the Fords. '86 S-10 Tailshaft (.72 5th gear). This was my choice because of the forward shifter location and the mechanical speedometer capability. Hurst shifter package. Needed to tighten up shifter pattern, for the longer shifter lever. Lokar XMSL6B - 16" black single bend shifter lever. Lokar SK-6872 - 5-speed ivory knob. REAR AXLE: '65 Plymouth B-body housing, with 10" brakes. Brake drum-to-brake drum measurement is .75" narrower than stock, and the 10" drum size is the same as stock! For me, this was a 'no brainer', as I has a lot of extra rear end parts left over from my Hemi project. 3.73 742-Case Sure-Grip, NOS. Same ratio as stock. Lokar EC-8002HT - '38 - '48 Mopar Hand Brake Connector package. Emergency Brake Cables - '70 Challenger, modified. In-Line Tube. With this drive train combination, my car's current '56 230" Power-Wagon engine gets an all-around 19 mpg average. First gear has a great launch and is good for 25 mph. The car revs at 1950 @ 60 mph, and 2600 @ 80 mph. When I get the 274" (.060 over 265") installed, I might change to a 3.90 or 4.10 to slow the top end down and pick up a little acceleration! Even with the current 102 hp engine, it easily stays up with modern traffic. IT'S A TERRIFIC PACKAGE!!! Walt
    1 point
  28. JB, I agree with you in that the prices of the pro shops are prohibitive for the hobby restorer or what have you. Here on the west coast there is a coffee shop saying, "If you have a concrete or painting project, find someone from south of the border! ". So, now that our govt. supports illegals, it is PC to do. I'm serious on that statement, I can drive down alleys and find what I need if I wish. But more seriously, I found on the net a way to paint with a sponge brush. He admitted that the results will not charm the knowledgeable painter, but very few will ever notice and the cost on a coupe is less than $100.00. I did not pursue my lifelong interest in old cars because the purists scared me off. Well, not anymore, I listen closely to know my options, then act accordingly without apologies. This a long post to encourage you to get with it and enjoy the adventure.
    1 point
  29. I've had dealings with several body shops over the years, and heard stories from others, and my opinion is that body shops maximize profit by doing high volume insurance claims (guaranteed $$$). I've had body shops take a 4 day job and stretch it out to 8 weeks, I've had estimates for simple paint & body work that were almost the book value of my truck, I've had a body man flat turn down painting a truck because he said that he made more $$$ doing insurance claims and did not want to clog up his shop with small jobs...those estimates I'm hearing from ya sure sound like the latter, and I cannot blame these guys from turning away work if they've got more income coming from another source and they've got bills to pay. There are at least 3 body shops out in the country where I live and knowing the guys who operate them, I am almost positive that they are skirting several laws by doing business this way, if not in violation of a few, just to make more $$$. So awhile back I decided to do it all myself and have done research and experimenting to accomplish getting a paint job on the old Dodge. I went to Amazon and got a Body Work book and a Paint Job book that were recommended from several sources, got'm sitting next to the couch for winter day reading. I read grey beard's notes on his roller paint job on his truck and put those techniques to work on the 500 LPG tank by the house. Four yrs later it still looks sharp, so I am confident that I can save some big $$$ by going that route. I also have accepted that perfection is an impossibility, so whatever minor flaws in my work I will accept as "character"
    1 point
  30. Remember FEF was painted by another member of this forum! Also I think we realize that at 2300 in materials not many of us can afford do have a do-over because of a rookie mistake.
    1 point
  31. Mr Coatney, although I have your posts blocked, I reluctantly decided to view your post. I specifically asked that any posts on this thread to be on topic, as part of your post is. I already am aware of your T5 conversion, and the fact you are jubilant about it and it's function, capabilities etc. This is not a thread about the Chrysler A833 transmission or the TK5 Toyo Kogyo, both very fine transmissions both covered well, in other threads, blogs and on other forum boards. Yes i did have some exchange about Robert Hornes TK5, as He did a great job of engineering and adapting this trans to his Chrysler flathead. Being this is a T5 thread, not sure why you feel the need to suggest a Chrysler A833 thread. But since you want to learn something about the A833 transmission, and have been asking questions about it, does this mean you are not happy with your T5 conversion, and wish to now learn about the A833 trans. I invite you Don to start a A833 trans thread, and additionally I encourage you to call George Asche to discuss purchasing the adapter plate, while supplies last. George can give you all the details of this conversion, and hopefully it will answer your questions you may be seeking. Mr Asche has produced a number of the A833 adapter plates,to date produced with high quality aircraft aluminum. Don are you suggesting Mr Asche, is making something that does not work? Something that has not been tried and researched? Something that is not quality designed and built, as has always been his reputation? Don if you have any real sincerity and interest in the A833 trans adapter, the conversion process, and its functionality, you should give Mr Asche a telephone call to inquire. I suspect though Don, you have no real interest in the A833 trans and it's adaptability to a Chrysler flathead 6.
    1 point
  32. A quick forum search will produce several forum members who have installed a T-5 and they are all happy with the install. The only bad report I have ever heard on this forum was from a member who has never posted on the open forum and when I ask him about his unsatisfactory results he declined to discuss it. So I am uncertain on why a thread was started about this transmission as there is a lot of positive feedback already available. A much better transmission topic would be on the recent suggestions on installing the Mopar A-833 4 speed overdrive transmission. I have asked the question on who has actually made this conversion and having done so what are the results. But nobody to date has had any information to offer. So once again I will ask if anyone has actually completed this conversion and if so please post results.
    1 point
  33. I am very happy with my TK5 83 to 87 Ranger trans install, very much different than the T5 units. No kit necessary, only had to shave the trans front cover plate to fit the 5 inch hole in the bell housing. The pilot bearing was two pressed together, good fit, found on ebay. I tried the 3.9 gear, but too low in first. With the 3.73 Ford gear, first still a little low, but comes up my driveway great, a the overdrive is great. Going to try a 3.55 Jeep rear next. My Coupe has a stock 80hp engine, does very good..
    1 point
  34. I shape it over the original metal then cut and butt weld.
    1 point
  35. Thanks for taking the time to make these posts.
    1 point
  36. rust has been replaced on the right front fender. I wanted to show how I patched it without a metal shrinker. Seemed to work pretty well.
    1 point
  37. 1 point
  38. Dave was my first mentor on this forum. He led me through my engine overhaul and stayed with me until it was running. Thanks Greybeard!
    1 point
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