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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/29/2015 in all areas

  1. There are still some goodies out there.......but you gotta be quick. I saw this recently and reacted like I was on fire. It was on the very top of my wish list. I am not absolutely certain if it is NOS......but it sure looks like it was never installed. Well It is installed now and it works great. It sure is nice to have something as critical as this with no wear at all. With the old carb my truck had to be running for a while before it felt like it wouldn't stall. Now I can move off after only a very short warm up. Best of all it was offered at a very reasonable price. Sometimes Ebay is really...realy good. Keep your eyes open you never know what you might find. Jeff
    2 points
  2. After recently reading (and many others in the past) of the removal of a water distribution tube and the troubles posed by it, I thought I would further encourage anyone replacing theirs to use a brass tube. The pictured brass water tube was removed today from the engine of my '51 Dodge D39 business coupe project in under 10 minutes which included looking for a wire clothes hanger and the tools shown. The pliers were used to bend the tip of a straight piece of clothes hanger so it would hook on the first opening in the tube. Vise grips were used as shown and the hammer was used to tap on the vise grips. Once the first hole appeared I more securely attached the clothes hanger as shown in the picture. Once cleaned up the tube will be like new and ready to re-use when needed. I have yet to see a Canadian built engine that does not have a brass tube. This engine is original to the car and appears to never have been worked on so the tube has been there for 64 years and came out easily. No fear of Water Distribution Tubes north of the border!
    1 point
  3. Now that I have my Plymouth back I went through all of the paper work and found that I wrote down a link to Picasa that I had totally forgotten about. I thought to post it as there are some useful tips. Now in the process of purging the fuel tank, flushing the brake and clutch hydraulic fluids, radiator and an oil change. Unfortunately the Diamond Back Classic's flat spotted from sitting unmoved and the battery needed to be replaced as well. I installed an Optima Yellow Top and have new tires on order. Other than that no worse for the 4 year hibernation. Here is the link: https://picasaweb.google.com/105464848349468493648/Magoo
    1 point
  4. Nice find Jeff! I did the same with that fresh air scoop I've been looking for. Found it on ebay for $42 vs the 125 that's on there now.
    1 point
  5. The brackets were made by Chop Shop Customs in Woburn Mass early on in the project after we got the motor back from George. I can take some close ups and post them at the end of the week. I heard that Lenny closed up that shop and moved on but I do not know where he is working out of now.
    1 point
  6. Water wetter is not acure. If you are over heating you must find the problem. Just because some racers use it does not give it credability. They run alcohol because it runs cooler, do you switch to alcohol.....would guess not. Get your hand on an infared temp probe. 10 to 50 bucks all over the place. Check the head at the temp probe and compare to your gauge, check the thermostat housing on both sides of the thermostat. If you start with a cold engine you can actually see when the thermostat opens. Then to the radiator. check the temps of the core all over the place. you can see the flow of hot water from to to bottom. The temp at the top should not be more than 10 to 15 hotter than the temp at the outlet. If the temp is greater then that, the water is staying in the rad to long, if it is cooler the thermostat is open to long. One thing about flushing rads....you never get the calcium build up out of the cores.even if you take it to a rad shop. If it is plugged it is plugged. Cures in a can do not cure the problem as much as mask them. Until you can say with certaintly this is the problem it is just guess work. You will get all kinds of opinions here but only good old trouble shooting and an understanding of how things works will get results. I have had the same problems on my 41. It is cured, required a new rad......runs 170 all day long in all temp conditions....from parades to desert crossings Good Luck
    1 point
  7. do not overlook the very fuse holder for corrosion and poor connection due to expansion of the metal during the heating up process where it has failed to contract to original tight fit on cool down..clean and tight..that is the key in controlling thermal runaway..for safety sake and to ensure return of lights later if out and about..you may consider going to the local parts counter of a RV center and getting a pop in circuit breaker
    1 point
  8. Bad grounds at the lamps can cause the most obvious problem, dim bulbs, but poor grounds can also lead to extra resistance in a circuit causing the fuse to be over worked. Especially check the ground from the headlamps, on my car they go to a spot on the front wings that get direct bath of road spray from the tires. Once cleaned up and protected with some grease, my headlamps brightened, stayed bright and drew a bit less through the amp gauge. One load you can easily remove from the circuit passing through the switch is to power your brake lamp switch directly instead of through the headlamp switch. Determine which lead powers the brake switch. remove it, tape it off and abandon it in place. Run a new line from the battery side of the starter solenoid, through an in line fuse 20 amp is sufficient, and attach it to the power terminal for the switch. That load is now independently powered and protected and o longer adds to the flow through the headlamp fuse.
    1 point
  9. You'll get many varied opinions on the thermostat issue. I personnally run 160° in both my car and truck. The thermostats are also available new you don't have to get NOS. I get mine from Napa but you'd have to find a source over there or order and have it shipped. As for the headlights if you have old wiring or poor connections it can cause that.
    1 point
  10. both steel and brass tubes are available. Brass won't rust.
    1 point
  11. When you flush the cooling system, flush the engine block as well as the radiator. Chrysler used to make a cooling system cleaner that helped clean the crud from the inside of the block and the radiator. Refill with an antifreeze / water mixture. That will help keep the temperatures in control and help prevent corrosion inside your cast-iron engine.
    1 point
  12. You might want to check to see that the heat riser between the intake and exhaust manifolds is operating properly. If it doesn't open completely the engine will run warm.
    1 point
  13. Alright, I finally got around to painting the truck. I have over 100 hours of body work in it to get it as straight as I could. I did it over the course of a few months, I dont have much time to play with my toys when I am working full time and going to college full time. I used Gloss jet black single stage urethane from paintforcars.com. $86 for a gallon with everything you need to spray it. I am using a cheap Harbor Freight HVLP gun, 1.4 tip for both primer and paint. I also invested in a PPS system from 3M that allows me to mix and filter paint alot easier than using mixing cups and cheap strainers. I highly recommend the PPS system. Here is a pic of the truck in Summit Epoxy Primer This is during the first coat Here is the second coat. Still needs wet sand and buff. Was drying too fast. I have also bought a holmes 440 wrecker crane and boom for the rear. I am going to put it in the bed, and modify the bed to be a little lower than stock, as well as put a wooden floor in around the wrecker frame. The wrecker is going to be gloss candy apple red. The next leg of this project after the wrecker is going to be the install of a 93 Cummins 12v with a 46RH dodge automatic transmission. I will also be using the rear axle from the D250 so that I cna get away from the scary brakes this truck has lol. The front axle is going to be converted over to a Ford Super Duty front axle with disc brakes. I will also be using the 93 D250 steering box for power steering. I am planning to remotely mount the radiator to behind the rear axle under the bed with an electric fan, or remount it to behind the cab in and upright position in the bed. More pics to follow....
    1 point
  14. rule of thumb for over heating is, Hot at low speeds/ Idle, air flow problem. hot at speed coolant flow problem. Some folks have found that making and adding a fan shroud for more direct air flow through the radiator helps. My car seldom goes above 170. But Remember even at 212 if you are running a 50/50 mix of coolant /water, you still have about a 20 degree cushion before that mix boils. And an over full system will alway burp out fluid due to expansion so if you keep topping up it will keep burping it out. You might want to find some of the water wetter additive that is made to enhance coolant heat transfer. It is sold in most auto parts stores. My daughter had an old Acura that always ran a bit hot one bottle of that reduced temps by 8 to 10 degrees. Are you running a Thermostat? Is it operating properly?
    1 point
  15. Do the simple stuff first. Check the accuracy of the gage. A bourdon tube or even electric gage at nigh onto 80 years old is likely inaccurate. Get an electric and check it against both a thermometer in the radiator top and an infra red read out on the water neck, etc. Then.......replace gage or go through all the wickets for a slightly hot engine....which include coolant system review and repair, complete ignition tune, check for dragging brakes/slipping clutch, ad infinitum. Could be a simple gage issue.
    1 point
  16. I'm a 58 year old ASE Master Tech (so what, you're thinking). I own my own automotive repair shop in Dinuba, CA. (Again, so what). In 1975, when I was 18, I owned a 1938 Plymouth PU. That's how I got started on vintage Mopar stuff. Yes, I know that NP means New Process. I just don't know what NP number it is. Not off hand. I build all kinds of stuff. The truck pictured is my 1941 Dodge PU with a IHC KB pu bed bolted to a Mazda B2200 chassis. If not your cup of tea you have to at least say I can plan, measure, cut and build.
    1 point
  17. Disagree 100%. If the pedal is high and firm after pumping adjustment is correct. Have to pump indicates air in the lines. When you did the bleeding did you follow the correct sequence? Start at the wheel cylinder farthest from the master, finishing with the one closest to the master.
    1 point
  18. I bought that alternator about 12 years ago. Price today is forty two bucks. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Valucraft-Alternator/1985-Chevrolet-Cavalier/_/N-ijj69Z9ci9i?itemIdentifier=335729_331215_4676_
    1 point
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