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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/28/2015 in all areas

  1. Thanks for the info. Was not aware these requirements have been relaxed or changed. Some day I would like to test the brakes on my B-3-C on one of those rolling roads. I went the extra mile and installed a 4 wheel disc brake system with all new components. It is pretty impressive but It would be great to check the balance of the system on that sort of device. I suppose there is potentially something good about what happened with this brake drum? Might make a few folks take a much closer look at their own vehicles. Putting a car or truck this old on the road is very serious business. My feeling is that an owner should have intimate working knowledge of the condition of his vehicle before taking it out on the road. Anything less is unfair to the people you share the road with. Jeff
    2 points
  2. Reading the first post,I believe the discount expired July 31,2013.
    2 points
  3. The other day, I made a diagnostic trip around the neighborhood, to see why my 47 DeSoto wouldn't downshift after its tiptoe upshift. Underhood diagnostics didn't show anything wrong. It turned out that I had to limp home, with no idle speed. The throttle crank would not stay on the shaft, and by the way, the fast idle cam would hang up. I removed the carburetor and worked with it on the bench. So much better to see and reach everything. I filed away the mating surfaces of the throttle crank, so that the screw could pinch it tight on its shaft. But the fast idle cam would keep hanging up. It's been maybe fifteen years that I had this car. I had added the automatic choke, and I must have fabricated a fast idle cam from heavy sheet metal. A strip of the metal wrapped the shaft at increasing distances, making the cam surface. The space between the strip and the shaft was filled with a crescent of sheet metal. I think the crescent was glued in place, and the glue gave out. The crescent would shift, jamming on the shaft. I got rid of the the crescent shim,and partially built up the space along the shaft with applications of of arc-weld gobs, and filed out the hole for the shaft. Then I JB Welded the space to a form the diameter of the shaft. It ain't pretty, but it stays true and pivots on its own weight. I'll road-trip the car tomorrow. I'll see if this makes a difference with the downshift.
    1 point
  4. I have a 1949 Dodge B1B - 108 Woody, which was built by Campbell Mid-State Body Works, of Waterloo, New York. It was purchased by my Dad on January 26th, 1949 in Ridgefield Park, New Jersey. That's him in the old photo. I am currently restoring it and am trying to find out how many others are out there. Mine has a tag reading "Campbell built" and specifying #20600. I would like to know if anyone knows what the number represents. Hope the photos show up. I am new here and not sure how this works. Dad in the new Dodge in 1949. What she looks like now. After a strip-down to the frame.
    1 point
  5. The new drums I received did not have hubs so I removed them from these drums (by grinding off the rivets) and transferred them over to the new drums.The original hubs used lug bolts. On the new set up I ran bolts from inside the drum with a little lock-tite and now use lug nuts on the rims. In place of the rivets I threaded those holes in the hubs and used button head style bolts instead.
    1 point
  6. LOL ... attention to detail will get you every time .. or me in this case anyway .... your are absolutely correct .. the original post is from 9 July 2013!!!! Once the thread came up in View New Content .... I just assumed the original post was from a current date ..... LOL ....
    1 point
  7. One web site said the production was 701. Actual pace cars had Iffy 4bbl intake, replicas were 2bbl, though dealer installed non Offy 4 bbl intakes were available with carter wcfb carbs.
    1 point
  8. Jack up one side turn the wheel one turn and count the drive shaft revolutions. But the diff between 3.5 and 3.7 may not be descernable. For example if you assume 27.5 in diameter tires, a3.54 will be at 2595 rpm, while the 3.73 would be at 2735. You would have a pretty delicately calibrated back side to feel that 140 rpm difference. Kinda like a modern automatic when it goes into lock up mode. You can see on the tach, but did you really notice?
    1 point
  9. I am running a stock Mopar distributor converted to 12 volts and i do not mess with my distributor at all. My car starts and runs as good as my 55 Chevy pick up with the HEI ignition. I thought about getting Langdon's HEI for Mopars but really see no need to.
    1 point
  10. no matter how nice the shop..there is usually a rat in it somewhere...I can give him the number of a good exterminator get that thing out of its misery...
    1 point
  11. When I see autos such as this at shows, they get nary a second glance. Ho hum, another "art" project - new running gear, old body. Just go buy a Toyota.
    1 point
  12. Unless yours is a convertible, the interior would have been cloth, not vinyl or leather. The paint on the Plymouth was not cellulose originally, but enamel, probably supplied by DuPont. Inexpensive re-sprays would have used the lacquer type paints, and show the cracking you describe after a few years. It's always a good idea to remain as close as practical to original with respect to materials on your old car. It is going to outlive you by a wide margin and should remain a messenger of the past.
    1 point
  13. Chris, I’m starting from scratch on this, but my plan is to dig up a ‘15-‘22 roadster body and mate it with the cowl of a ‘23-‘26 roadster or touring for a body that looks like this: The engine plan is to get a pre-war 218 block and stroke it with a 230 crank and rods (though I have a friend who is trying to talk me into a DeSoto / Chrysler six with an F-head). I’m taking inspiration from pre-war Ford hotrods, but using all MoPar pieces and some hop-up goodies from Edgy Speed Shop. I want the whole works to look like it rolled off the lake bed at Muroc in 1942. -Dave
    1 point
  14. If you used the 58.5" ranger axle with 1 inch spacers on each side thats a total width of 60.5" . Plus with that axle there is a 2" off set. I suggest that if you are leaning toward using the ranger axle or even like the idea of it but want a centered differential, take a look at the chart i posted. Pick up a 94-98 Mustang GT axle. You will have the same 8.8" ring gear but it will be centered in the axle, then you wont have to worry about the driveshaft having clearance issues. It comes with disc brakes and the correct bolt pattern. In the chart if its a 7.5" ring gear its a v6 car, if its a 8.8 its a GT/V8 car (Mustangs only Thunder bird and Cougars were a bit different. Only the Thunderbird Turbo coupe was a 8.8)
    1 point
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