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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/25/2015 in all areas

  1. Just bought a 1950 Dodge 3/4 ton. It has the original 218 flathead 6 with a floor shifted 3 speed. Motor and tranny are in good shape. The 218 runs but it runs real rough, it needs a basic tune up and some carb work on the Carter ball and ball 1 barrel. It's a pretty solid truck relative to the age of it. Some minor rust along the bottom edges of both doors and some on the passenger floor board. Plans for this truck are to install a new wiring harness, 12 volt conversion, get the motor in good running order, get rid of the old centerlines with the huge weather cracked mickey thompsons out back and throwing it on some steelies with whitewalls, and replace some glass to get this truck road worthy. Future plans are dakota or s10 frame swap and through a mopar v8 in it down the road, but for now just have a nice old truck to cruise around. I don't have any plans of painting it or restoring the body or painting it. I do plan on replacing the rotted out bed boards in the bed, recovering the seat and making some door panels in the same material of the seat. I've tracked down some parts for the truck as well as some other forums that might be helpful for some information but any other tips or links you all have would be great, specifically if you guys can identify what carb it is so I can get a rebuild kit for it. Anyways, here are some pictures.
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  2. Took a short road shake down drive with a friend following. (1) I have a tach on now but it is reading high, 4000 rpm at 65 MPH according to my friend's speedo. At 65 I still had more pedal, so TOP SPEED unknown, will have to go to Bonniville to determine that!. (2) The truck drives as it did but seems a bit lighter (some bounce) on the rear axle, I did put 225 75 R15's on the front with 235 75 R15's on the back but I don't think that would affect ride. (3) lots of fumes. . . now the engine has sat for two years and so it has to burn clean again, gut carbon dioxide ??? (4) oil 40#'s, temp 160, amp needle not moving. (5) I put a later starter on so I have a button starter now which I really like, starts on the 2nd rev,, no choke, no foot pedal, just starts and idles very nicely, (6) Door and rear windows on Friday, maybe that is drawing excessive fumes into the cab. So shake down has started. 4 miles today, 20 miles tomorrow, 50 miles on Friday and 100 mile RT on Saturday up to the Big Trees and back. Wish me well.
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  3. also grease or oil the pivot points, looks cool
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  4. An excellent plan. Enjoy the truck as is, develop the skills you will need to put those plans into place in the future, make changes you feel comfortable with. Don't be afraid to push your limits a bit. That's the only way you learn and the only way you get better. This doesn't have to be an overnight project.
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  5. They're not choppy unless there is some air in the system, low on fluid or have some kind of bind in the pivot points. Recheck your fluid level after cycling the system a few times.
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  6. Instead of mounting them to the wall, mount them to the cab and set your gaps first. Still an ideal work height, access to both sides and they're lighter without the glass and regulators and less likely to scratch the pretty side than you would laying them on their back.
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  7. I use hoods, trunks, roof panels that are relatively flat, from salvage yard cars and trucks. Mid 70-80 Chevy truck hoods are a favorite. Cut the edges off, strip the inner panel, panel adhesive blobs off and you have about 8 square feet of CHEAP steel. If you want to buy new, 18 or 20 works. Most of the sheet metal of the era was 19. There's overlaps in the specs as to what is classified as 18, 19, or 20. 18 will weld easier than the 20, 20 is easier to fabricate and make bends, curves, radiuses etc.
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  8. I agree Andy, counting doors is more practical, but IMO "Six-Light Sedan" sounds much more glorious than "four door sedan". What's more, all 6-L sedans are 4D's, but NOT all 4D's are 6-L's...! As I confess to be a moto-romantic person, the fact that six-light sedan was used in the 1930's by english and american, but obviously since much forgotted gives the term an extra silver lining in my eyes. I hereby promise to dedicate to rehabilitation of this term from now on.
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  10. As I wrote in the opening post, he said it like it's pronounced in english in spite he does not speak english. If I would ask him to write it down he'd probably write "siks lait sedan". I've never heard anyone to say "kuusivalo" in finnish and it does not mean anything in finnish. In finnish we have only "four door sedan"-term "neliovinen", nothing more specific. During the past 20 years finns have adapted 3W and 5W coupe terms from english, they are used as direct translations "kolmi-ikkuna kupee" and "viis'ikkuna kupee"... But only by car guys in hobby circles, not common language. Thanks Mark for warming me up on this... I have to tell you folks, that US cars were popular and highly valued it finland until end of the 50's. Quite remarkable is that there is only one make that has finnish translation of it's name: Chevrolet is called "Letukka" in Finland. I suppose it originally came from similar pronouncion. It's also an old slang word for light footed woman..., but that's another story then. Ford comes close, but only because in eastern part of the country they don't use letter "f", but pronounce it "v", same with "d"; it's pronounced "t", thus Ford is "Voorti" in common language. (Finns mostly add "i" in the end of words that would end in a consonant.)
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  11. An excerpt from Gus Wilson's Model Garage,Sept 1965. ..... "I don't know about the man," said Gus, "but you've sure got the wrong car. This one never ran away from you at 90." "How do you know?" "It couldn't have," said Gus. "You couldn't push it over 75. The coil polarity is reversed. This pencil test is an easy way to show it. If the spark feathers are on the plug side of the pencil, polarity is okay. But when the feathers are on the cable side, the positive of the high voltage is connected to the center plug electrodes. That ruins performance, because it will take much more voltage to fire a plug." "Don't see why," said Eldon. "Most cars have the negative battery post grounded, but some have the positive." Gus grinned. "Makes no difference whether a car has negative or positive battery ground. The high-voltage polarity should always be negative at the plug terminals. It boils down to something called electron emission, on the theory that current is a flow of electrons, from the negative side to the positive. "The hotter something is, the easier electrons can hop off it. The center electrode of a spark plug gets much hotter than the outside one, which is attached to the shell and loses heat to it. So for easiest current flow and the best spark, the hot center electrode should be negative. If you make the outer electrode negative, you're forcing electrons to jump off a cooler surface to a hotter one. That's like bucking one-way traffic in the Friday-night rush hour." "The engine runs, so there must be an ignition spark," said Eldon. "Sure, at ordinary speeds. But spark-plug engineers say it takes up to 45 percent more voltage to fire a plug with reversed polarity. That cuts down on your voltage reserve. On heavy acceleration, when compression goes up and it's harder for the spark to jump, you get misfiring. Same thing at high speeds, when the points can't stay closed enough to build up a maximum magnetic field in the coil. Sam, this car couldn't have got away from you, let alone run for miles at over 90." "Okay, maybe it couldn't. Now what does it take to reverse this polarity?" Gus pointed to the coil terminals. "Just switching around these two wires."....
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  12. Well, as you see in the MotorEra dictionary I have not invented this term. However I can easily understand and appreciate the term; "Light" is an opening where through the light can be seen. Same way as in a house, a window may contain several screens. Nine windows on the facade of this house, however 4x12 + 5x9 = 93 pcs of glass screens... Easier to understand to say "nine windows" than count all separate screens?
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  13. Language is a agreement between people as definition... It does not make any more sense why one should count in the side windows and rear, but count out windshield. Why not count them all in every case or count just the ones visible on "the profile/silhouette"?
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  14. With 3.01/1 gearing it is doubtful your stock engine will have the torque and horse power to allow you to pull a steep hill in 3rd gear without down shifting. And with that gear starting from a dead stop on even a slight incline will require excessive clutch slipping leading to premature disc failure and possibly clutch chatter problems.
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  15. Robin and his UK brand reps inspired me to get creative.
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  16. For those folks with lube need for their standard three speeds and the OD unit this is the proper API GL1 that you need. Again, for transmission and OD's I have always pushed that the members here use GL-1 and as I never had a stock tranny/OD I never gave it any concern personally to look for it..but last evening I discovered my Toploader four speed in the Tiger needed topped off. Appears that the least you can buy is 1 gallon but for 14.00 how can you go wrong? source; NAPA http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Gear-Oil-GL-1-90-Gear-Oil-80w90-1-GAL/_/R-FCA65201_0434862994 DO NOT USE IN THE REAR END..THIS LUBE NEEDS THE EXTREME SHEER PRISSURE PROTECTION PROVIDED BY GL-5
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  17. http://gastankrenu.com/ freind used this company to rebuild his 41 olds gas tank. not cheap but there were no other options for him and they have a lifetime warrenty which is worth something too. still less costly then a new tank
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  18. The term "light" is actually British. What we, in North America, would call a six window sedan the Brits called it a six light sedan. And sedan windows were counted in even numbers - four or six. Coupe window count, for some reason, was odd numbers - three or five. Bill Vancouver, BC
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  19. Never heard that one. I guess the "light" part is in reference to windows as I have heard that term in reference to the glass in house windows.
    1 point
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