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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/15/2014 in all areas

  1. It's not all about shiny paint !!! MERRY CHRISTMAS
    7 points
  2. Sounds to me like you need to drop some stuff off at the electronics recycling bin.
    2 points
  3. I reckon a true mosey requires a slow somewhat steady pace coupled with looking towards the ground...ya never know whut ya might step into while out in the country: rabbit hole, rattler, fresh pile...
    2 points
  4. Here is a more comprehensive video of the event and the characters that made it special. My friend, Oak O'Connor culled this from his three cameras that ran for almost an hour. The shenanigans and comments both before and after ignition, where what made it special. I am very fortunate. Thank you Oak.
    1 point
  5. First number with an "a"- One ThousAnd?
    1 point
  6. No, it's not a rag joint, it's the shaft that was original to the Dakota, two U-joints with a telescopic shaft. The fabbed piece was made by sandwiching the 48s original ends of the steering knuckle. (The fork at the end of the steering box that connects to the tie rods) so that I would get as close to the original geometry as possible. The rack is positioned so that the two bolts in the center section is in line with not only the lower control arm pivots but also with the line that goes between both steering arms of the spindle at ride height. There is no play up/down or side to side of the fabbed connection that I can tell. I'll be testing it out in the spring when the weather breaks. I'll let you guys know how it goes.
    1 point
  7. The impact driver is a great tool to have. I've used mine the most at the junkyard where you often can't bring your own heat. Works great on those Phillips screws for door latches. Most recently I needed the removable floor for a 39-47 pickup and the impact driver got all but 2 of the screws out!
    1 point
  8. Don--that appears to be the Deluxe Package, ya got a few more bits & a snazzy carrying case As for the Subaru, its leaky head gaskets finally blew @153k back in July when it overheated, just now getting around to doing a minor overhaul on that li'l cuss that's included replacing the steering rack, O2 sensors, transmission/differential fluids...it's my Dad's "spare" car that he rarely drives, I overhauled the brakes and replaced the struts 2 yrs ago when he started to do them and long story short I did the whole thing myself while he recuperated from trying to fab up his own strut compressor...after he got it out of me how much I spent on this buggy this year alone, he offers to sign over the title to me (apparently he forgot that I tried to buy it from him a few days before it overheated)
    1 point
  9. not reliable....what do you think they used for umpteen years..how many of these cars/trucks still have the original rag..more than you can fathom..how many are upgraded to a telescoping universal joint style..only those that enjoyed a retrofit of modern suspension in form of a clip...tell you what...go out and find one of these columns and entertain the removal without unbolting the rag...after defeat (no knife/saw please) come back and let me know how much you sweated and fought and fumed over that little rag...
    1 point
  10. You must have snagged that 70's KD tool from my toolbox when I was not looking
    1 point
  11. Santa and Adele this morning, just had to share
    1 point
  12. Great to see you posting pictures again................and what great ones. Grandkids sure are fun!
    1 point
  13. That's worthy of a Norman Rockwell, Bob. I've been out shopping for my grandkids. They're all getting new sneakers and books for Christmas. All ten of them. I won't post all their pics just right yet....
    1 point
  14. TOOLBOX ARSENAL: I had to take apart a Subaru oil pump to clean it thoroughly, and all but one of the countersunk screws came out easily. The last one needed some persuasion with a KD Tool impact screwdriver from the 70s...it needed some Marvel Mystery Oil to free it up as it had not been used in some time. Several smart blows later and that ornery screw was backing out, with minimal damage to the Phillips head...and they still make these things
    1 point
  15. I always enjoy your pictures. Thanks and Merry Christmas.
    1 point
  16. If you are running tubes with your Coker radials, you may want to dismount them and check that all the mylar ba rcode stickers have been removed from the inside of the tires. They chafe the tubes when the tires flex and eventually wear through the tubes.
    1 point
  17. It's a 1924 Custer Car Electric. Some were carnival rides and some were street legal. This one was street legal.
    1 point
  18. VINTAGEPIC: saw these on the FB
    1 point
  19. I hate wine but like cheese. Foo Foo events are not for me. Leave that to the white shoes.
    1 point
  20. All's well that end's well..........or so the saying goes. I have known for a while now that the there was too much end play on the crank in my truck. I started looking at a possible solution recently and happened upon an interesting listing on ebay for a bearing set. This listing had a notation that this bearing set was made specifically for use when one of these engines was fitted with a fluid drive. I had never seen anything about a different set of main bearings for fluid drives. There is nothing in my Dodge manuals. So I started asking questions. The first group of people I queried did not know anything about this. So on a hunch that there actually was something to this I started digging deeper. Sure enough Bob (DodgeB4ya) knew about this Federal Mogul bearing set. Thanks Bob. I then spent some time with the seller and based on what he read to me from the Federal Mogul catalog it became apparent that they had created an upgraded rear bearing to handle what they had almost certainly determined was a weak spot in the stock bearing composition. I then got a hold of an old buddy of mine that is highly skilled machinist (artificial hearts these days) and an ace mechanic. Sure enough he knew all about these bearings. "Get a set" he said 'and we will just see if that doesn't solve your problem" Of course when I called the ebay supplier the next day somebody had already snapped up the last set in the size I needed. Couldn't believe that one. Fortunately it wasn't the last set in existence. My buddy helped me locate what we needed. Turns out he knows where mountains of NOS parts were just sitting collecting dust. Got what I needed for next to nothing. So then we dropped the oil pan and sure enough the crank was in fine shape. whoever had rebuilt it had used the standard type bearings and while they showed almost no wear on the running surfaces the thrust surfaces on the rear main shells were another story. The crank thrust surfaces looked perfect. We fitted the new bearings and all is finally well inside the old beast. .004" end play after several hours run in. My buddy Vic say's it is one of the quietest running flatheads he has ever come across. So all's well that end's well. Yeah!!! Y'all have a great holiday season and so long for now. Jeff
    1 point
  21. couple pages back I posted the sheet metal brake I fabricated...now I have my fabrication/work table finished and the brake mounted in place..on the back side I have the bead roller mounted for quick on and off when needed....next is to make a mounted rack for the many dies that go with the tool for step, beads and shearing metal..
    1 point
  22. Yes, for a Cherokee, that's what you're looking for. Some came with drum brakes on the rear and some with disc, your choice. You'll need to get rid of all the mounting brackets on the axle and pick up some spring perches to match up with your leaf springs. Those will have to be welded on to your replacement axle at the correct spacing and pinion angle. You may need to have a driveshaft fabricated up to match the pinion yoke. Save the breather hose and bracket, you'll still need them. That's the basics. You should be able to find them easily at local salvage yards, pick and pulls, Craigs List. etc.
    1 point
  23. I just ordered some "banjo" fittings from a company called Pure Choice Motorsports that are supposed to work with this master cylinder. Cost thirty bucks plus shipping for two fittings. I hope they work.... http://www.purechoicemotorsports.com/ 3/16 Inverted Flare Master Cylinder Banjo Fittings From Pure Choice Motorsports Our award winning banjos are bright zink plated steel. This will allow a 90-degree flow out of the master cylinder for 3/16" standard steet tubing, where clearance is a problem or a cleaner look is desired for your brake lines. Part # 3070 $29.95 pair (GM Master Cylinder as pictured) Other Sizes: P/N 3013 Fits 7/16 & 7/16 P/N 3015 Fits 7/16 & 1/2 P/N 3025 Fits 3/8 & 1/2 P/N 3035 Fits 3/8 & 7/16 P/N 3045 Fits 7/16 & 9/16 P/N 3055 Fits 3/8 & 9/16 P/N 3065 Fits 1/2 & 9/16 ( Chrysler) P/N 3070 Fits 1/2 & 9/16 P/N 3075 Fits 3/8 & 3/8 P/N 3085 Fits 10mm & 12mm P/N 3092 Fits 11mm & 12mm P/N 3095 Fits 10mm & 10mm P/N 3105 Fits 1/2 & 1/2
    1 point
  24. Pat; In the picture of the cylinder you posted the large outlet hole appears to be for the small secondary chamber and the small hole for the primary chamber. That is reversed on the cylinder that ECI sent me. ECI tells me I need a 15/16" bore. Most Mustang master cylinders are 1" bore. However I found a 73 Mustang cylinder with the 15/16" bore with the fittings aligned correctly at Rock Auto. RAYBESTOS Part # MC36398 Professional Grade; Bore Size=15/16" Number of Ports=2 Primary Outlet Size=1/2x20 Secondary Outlet Size=7/16x24 Front Disc Brakes; Rear Drum Brakes This morning I will do two things. I will once again call ECI and ask them if the RAYBESTOS cylinder I found will work. There are such things as rod length and cylinder capacity that may come into play. If this cylinder will work I will head to NAPA and see if the Edelmann Fitting Part# 261320 that Chet recommended will work on the ECI cylinder. If it will not work I will buy the REYBESTOS cylinder or its equivlent.
    1 point
  25. Don, Maybe you need to look at one of these from Speedway http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Stainless-Brake-Lines-with-90-Degree-End,1994.html $13.99 and looks like it would be a quick and easy solution without worries with a kinked line of possible stress fracture of a very tight bend somewhere down the road. Stainless Brake Lines with 90 Degree End Or this fitting from Bear's Performance at $9.95
    1 point
  26. I just got off the phone with ECI. Ordered there dual master cylinder conversion setup. I discussed the issue James Curl had and was told it has been corrected. I will see when the new assembly arrives next week. Cost was three Franklins and change. Mustang dual master cylinder. All you pure Mopar fans can go ahead and cringe. I now will have a shiverlay transmission, shiverlay valves, Pontiac calipers, a GM alternator, and a furd master cylinder. But if you see me on the road my car looks almost like a stocker.
    1 point
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