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I've had "Doris" about 6 years now. In that time I've slowly upgraded/repaired her (12 volt, disc brakes, dual M/C, George Asche O/D and carbs, new fuel & water pumps, new interior and of course new WWW radials). I've driven her about 11,000 miles but always within 100 miles of home--now it's time to venture out. Tomorrow, I will take her on a 400 mile trip from NE Indiana to the Toronto burbs. I've put new plugs in her, reset the timing (4 BTDC), topped off the engine oil, transmission oil and lube. A few weeds ago I had the front end aligned and brake fluid flushed and replaced. I've renewed my AAA membership and have my cellphone charged--I'm ready to go---wish me luck. I'll report back Monday with tales of my nearly 1,000 mile round trip

Don't forget your heater core, I don't know if it will take much more than 4 to 7 pounds. I'm going to try a 4 pound cap on my aluminum radiator.

10 # and 45# compression with valves that are seating well indicate ring problems and/or cylinder wear. It may fire and run. I personally would prefer to see 100# plus on all cylinders. With the information you have already gleaned from the testing, you may as well tear the motor apart now and fully inspect the internals. Since you're already planning on new rings and a balance, any further work to get the engine started before the rebuild is a going to be a duplication of work and expense not needed. Oil pressure can be affected by brg clearance and cranking it over will not yield the same pressure reading as a running engine. Heli coils will hold engine compression when properly installed. I've used them successfully on aluminum blocks numerous times. A machine shop can install them for you if necessary. You'll need specific measuring tools for checking cyl bore wear so chances are it will aready be at a machine shop for that. Do it right once. You'll be happier with the results than repeatedly delving into the inner workings.

Check the lamps, if they are 12 V the car may have had a change over. Or look on the generator and distributor. If their tags are red then they are 6 V. If the car is Stock it should be 6V positive earth. If 6V it should have heavy gauge primary battery cables. 1 gauge or lower are recommended. There are several possibilities for your car. A Plymouth Body which that is would have been a Special Deluxe. Canadian built cars were Plymouths with Dodge trim bits. You will want to measure the engine head length as Chrysler mad cas in Canada all had 25 inch engines regardless of marque. In the US Dodge and Plymouth used a 23.5 inch long engine, and Chrysler and DeSoto used a 25. There were also something known as (I believe) Kennsington cars. They were knockdowns, assembled in England. I believe the K cars used the 25 inch block also. The difference in engine length is critical to ordering engine parts when needed. The shift lever operated a 3 speed plus reverse. Center middle is neutral. Toward you and down is 1st, up and away from you is 2nd, and away and down is high gear, reverse is toward you and up. Dodges in the US had fluid drive, to so sure about what your car is set up with, but it is a good idea to assure a well operating parking brake, and or wheel chocks till you get it sorted. As always posting up some pictures of thing like carbs, starters, generators, etc is helpful. Timing marks should be on the main crankshaft pulley, there should be a triangular pointer welded to the timing chain cover. TDC is a good starting point for initial timing. To check for proper fuel flow disconnect the fuel line at the carb, direct the flow into a suitable container,( a plastic beverage bottle will work) with an assistant, remove the coil wire from the dist to prevent a start, then have the asst crank the starter. Count 12 fuel pulses. That should give you 8 to 10 ounces of gas in the bottle, less points to problems in the tank, lines, or fuel pump. Sometimes a blast of low pressure compressed air into the line from the pump to the tank will clear thing to allow fuel to flow. Reproduction factory service manuals are available on line for not much money and are a great starting point for buildig your knowledge of your vehicle. There are also 3 or 4 forum members living in England. Hopefully they will post some intros.

Okay, rear rectangular 1956 fenders and running boards to match are installed. The running boards were repaired using 2 sets, it came off pretty well. Fenders are welded up, all panels need to be worked, before paint, it is a lot of work, but is progressing. Took a ride tonight, 60 mph, at 2400 rpm, with these smaller tires, with taller tires will be less RPM yet. I would not want any higher gears in this diff, 3.23 is about the limits, if there were a lot of hills around, it might be tough at times, but it's flat here....

Dimensions as well as links to Bruce Horkey and Mar-K are here on the DPETCA site: http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/bed/bed.htm