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  1. 8 likes
    Another 1949 Dodge B1B breathes again! Been a long road to this point and plenty still to do but this truck got a complete frame off going over. Nothing perfect and never going to be a show truck but I've learned a ton from the guys here and a little knuckle busting of my own. So together we should celebrate this milestone - Thank you! I had some health issues this year and this project is where I poured my time to keep my mind off it. I went all-in in January. Put the cab back on, put an engine from my 50 parts truck in the 49, used the tranny that came with the 49 (was hooked to a desoto that was seized). Rigged up a radiator and hooked up a gas tank from an old lawnmower. I painted the dash and put gauges and switches back, rebuilt a new wire loom, and metered out all connections - so far so good. Wiper motor was shorting, pulled it and found it full of rust too. Pulled coils and brushes out, cleaned it all up, re soldered coils and that now works. I dropped marvel mystery oil in each cyl and worked it over a bit and found the starter stuck. .....Yesterday I pulled the starter apart cleaned out a pound of rust wire brushed it, cleaned up brushes and it worked ....so - judgement day. A little fiddling with distributor and a good dose of gas down the throat she sneezed that marvel right out, ther'll be no mosquitoes in my shop for a while. Still too much snow to even get out of my shop, so I put rear end up on jack stands to run it through the gears... ha no first gear due to an "obstruction".... Had to torch and bend the shift lever because it hit the dash and couldn't get to first gear ;-), Need to finish sandblasting floor so I can POR it and get it back in - need me a gas pedal again! Sitting atop my milk crate seat at the helm of my "pilothouse" was a pretty good day! Progress my friends! Just like I'm 8 again counting the minutes til I can get back in the sandbox....Can't wait to get another day playing with my truck. Cheers, J 49 Dodge first start.mp4
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    I'm just dropping a note to express my appreciation for this forum, and especially for how it is moderated. I frequent another forum because of another car I own, and I feel like I have take a shower after visiting it.
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    Hi All....took a bit but here are my pics from the BBQ...good to see y'all enjoy!! Please let me know if the link works for you....Thanks! Kevin <iframe width="480" height="360" src=" http://s62.photobucket.com/user/Kstop57/embed/slideshow/10th%20Annual%20Clements%20BBQ"></iframe>
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    dang!! I blew it again this year!!! to much "jaw jackin" and not enough photo taking It was awesome to hang out with Mark, John, Tom, Davin, Jeremiah, Bruce, Mike, Hank, Merle, Rod, Dave, Ralph...... I was trying to get around more to talk more to Jim, Paul, Gary and Tim and meet some more of you but there just wasn't enough time!! (above photo of John-T-53, Desotodav and ggdad1951) to everyone that help me work on Julie's truck and load it back on the trailer a big THANK YOU! I know you don't come to these to work on them but it was kind of cool and very much appreciated!
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    I hope all you guys had fun... I sure missed out! But I did get my "Wish You Were Here Award" Thanks a million Tim and all the rest of you guys! Next year for sure!
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    I bought my 40 Plymouth 2dr sedan 20 yrs ago. Towed it to my in laws and parked it in their driveway. I originally had grand plans of totally restoring the car and making it pretty much as it rolled off the assembly line in 1940. I put it up on blocks removed all the brakes as they didn't work. removed the dash and other bits and pieces and started cleaning some things up and that's about where it sat. Meanwhile I was busy with kids, work and life (Sound familiar?) I gave up on it several times. Tried selling it a few times to 2 deadbeats who never showed up to get the car. Tried giving it away for free. One guy was really excited because his Dad had one and he thought it would be a great project. He never showed. Recently I was resigned to the fact that I may as well just junk the thing because it's only been sitting and a Raccoon had made a home in the interior some years back and ruined the interior upholstery and headliner. (I had the front floorboard out)........The engine was now stuck as well after sitting so many years with the head off. A couple months ago I started putting Creeps oil in the cylinders. Didn;t seem to help much. Anyway to make a short story long, the day I was gonna call the junkyard i pulled back the cover from the car. Took a long hard look at it. ( I swear it talked to me!) I convinced myself then and there that the car is too good to junk and I can make it road worthy again. The past 3 Sunday afternoons I've set aside a block of time and dedicated it to the 40, Yesterday I was ready to remove the flathead six but it started raining. Today it was raining as well in the AM but around noon it cleared up for a while. I trook advantage of that. Ran over to the car and finally after all these years removed the engine. I had just put away the hoist and tools and got the eng in my trailer and it started pouring out. It's amazing what can be done with the right frame of mind attitude and focus. Thanks for reading my rambling..............................................
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    I forget who won the dance contest Julie, was it Brent?
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    As always, the BBQ was THE event of the year. One of the few things I look forward to every year, the thing all other things get planned around. Tim and Steph are truly wonderful people and I'm glad to call them friends. Here's another photo...
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    I heard it running a couple of times. For those of you who missed it, here is the glorious event caught on film.
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    Interesting topic with a lot of emotion involved, rightly so when smashing into things is at stake! The MoPar brakes as supplied in our Plymouths, Dodges and Chryslers are superior to their contemporaries. The double-leading shoe and well matched drum diameters to the vehicle made them better than the competitors. With today's far superior lining material, the drum brake system, properly maintained, is pretty hard to beat. Some facts about drum brakes: - No brake dust on wheels - Drum brakes are self actuating so they have a great pedal feel. - Drums are lighter than discs. Calipers are much heavier than wheel cylinders, and the brake surface area of a drum brake shoe is much larger than a disc pad. - There is a company that will drill your drums with all of the same benefits of drilled disc brake rotors. - Most big trucks use 4 wheel drum brakes What bothers me about the disc conversion that some do, is that it is highly doubtful that the owner/mechanic has the engineering expertise to properly set up the disc system. Factory engineers spend a lot of time balancing pedal effort, proportioning, and choosing size and type of discs. Brake systems also affect other components such as suspension and steering... A lot to consider. It's pretty certain that some of those folks who install disc systems (you do install a whole system, right?) are going from poorly maintained junk to new components and lots of labor replacing hoses and lines, so comparison to the drum system may not be valid.
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    hey, my top 10 list was a little different 10. vitamin D 9. see If a Minnesotan will burn 8. shake an aussie's hand 7. see who brings what vehicles this year 6. get my photo taken with the forum family 5. watch JT mow the extra needed vehicle space 4. not be rained on 3. see how many burgers I can eat 2. Bond with my woman on the ride down there and back 1. Meet members of the forum face ta face.
  17. 5 likes
    So after looking at google for a while, I found a couple Dodge trucks from the Viva Las Vegas show made it onto Hot Rod Networks online magazine. Thought you guys might enjoy! http://www.hotrod.com/articles/300-photos-viva-las-vegas/
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    The water distribution tube could also be part of the problem.
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    One of the milestones of the weekend....the day before.
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    That move was called the "fuel pump shuffle" LOL
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    The most money can be made by parting it out. Which would mean you might end up spending the next couple of years removing parts to sell to people in other states,and you end up selling the car for 25 to 100 bucks at a time and the money just disappears a LOT quicker than the car does. I don't get a sense of you wanting to do all that,or even having the tools to do all that. Haul it to a scrap yard and you MIGHT get $180 for it. Last I heard a month or so ago scrap cars are bringing around $4.50 per hundred lbs of weight here. If you have to rent a trailer to haul it to the scrap yard,you might clear 75-100 bucks,and that's not much money for all the time and work. Put it up for sale on places like this site,your local Craig's List,and on ebay,and I'd be shocked if you didn't get at least 750 bucks out of it within a week. Maybe/Probably even more if you can get a clean NC title for it in your name that has numbers that match the numbers on the car. A clean title in your name that you can sign that has numbers that match the ones on the car can bring an additional 500 bucks when you sell it to someone who wants to put it back on the road. If nothing else it practically guarantees you will sell the car if the asking price is reasonable. Put it on ebay and let the market set the price, My suggestion is to get a clear title,clean all the trash and crap out of the car so potential buyers can get a good look at it,get a friend that knows something about mechanicals to see if he can get the engine unstuck and spinning freely,and THEN take the photos and put it up for sale. If you have any spare parts that go with the car,display them on a plastic tarp or blanket on the ground so they can be seen in the photo. I don't particularly want the car because I already have more project cars than I have time left to live,but I live in eastern NC,and if you decide you want to just get rid of it by scraping it,let me know and I will pay you 50 bucks more than the scrap guy and come and get it. Maybe I can find someone that will want to buy it. I HATE the idea of restorable cars going to the crusher.
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    Great time as usual! Good to see friends and trucks again. Sadly an accident, not us, on the road caused me to miss my original flight...gonna be a long night! Thanks again Tim and Stephanie! Meanwhile here's a picture of an Aussie enjoying a lollie-water...
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    Top Ten Reasons to Attend the 10TH Clements Tailgate BBQ 10. A bitchin BBQ made from a 1948 PH parts truck. 9. Beautiful country drive to location. 8. My Hawk SACHI 7. Hanging out with guys who "get" what your talking about, and enjoy hearing the what, where, and why about your truck. 6. Chance to buy parts from fellow members 5. We're not getting any younger (it's time to hang with fellow PH truckers!) 4. Not a lot money in the budget, but there will be some trophies....! 3. FOOD!! 2. Knowledge. You get to see in progress to finished trucks right before your eyes! 1. Meet members of the forum face ta face. It's the 10TH one for pete's sake..!!! If you didn't make the last nine.... GET TO THIS ONE!!! 48D
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    I recently bought a 1954 Dodge C-1-B Job Rated 1/2 ton from my cousin who inherited it from her Mother, who inherited it from her Husband, who inherited it from his Father who bought it new in January of 1955. The truck in 100% original as purchased from the dealer. I even have the original bill of sale showing that the dealer added turn signals, heater, oil filter, and mud tires. It had sate in storage since 1980 when the old man passed away. My Aunts husband would go once or twice a month to start it and drive it around the block then park it. It has just over 42k miles on it. It had sat untouched since 2003 when my uncle passed away. When we went to pick it up we put air in the tires, gas in the tank and a new 6 volt battery and it started up and drove into the trailer. I was excited at that point. It had no brakes but the tires held air and it ran. Got it home and into my garage and put brake fluid in an bled out the front brakes. No leaks up there so went to the rears and the brake fluid is running out the bottom of the drums. Tried for a couple of days to get the rear hubs off but couldn't get them to budge yet. I will need to order a hub puller to hopefully get them to break free. (any advice on removing those will be appreciated) It smokes quite a bit when running so I may be doing a re-ring in the near future but as long as it runs for a while I will put that off. Put coolant in the radiator and it was spitting pretty good out the overflow tube. Figured the cap was bad so went to the parts store and gave them the truck info and took home a new cap. Put the new cap on and started it to let it run out some old gas from the tank and heard water running. Looked under the hood and the coolant was running out of the radiator top tank for sure. When I looked online for reasons the tank might separate from the cores I read that the truck had a 0 pressure system possibly and they sold me a 9# radiator cap. I'd like to keep the truck completely original but don't know what my options are for a replacement radiator or if the one in the truck can be repaired. Someone said to go back to the parts store and demand they pay for the repair but I'm not sure how that would even work. So at this point I need repair/replace the radiator, and repair/replace the brake system. Otherwise it is in good shape. I also noticed after bleeding the front brakes they seem like the shoes are stuck out and the fronts are grabbing bad all the time. Any tips on what might cause that? Wheel cylinders, brake lines, or master cylinder? Sorry for the long post I'm just proud of the truck I ended up with.
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    Someone else got a guitar too!
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    Well, I bought the Gray Mare here locally in around 1991 from an older man that had owned it for many years. It was sitting in his back yard for years and was visible from the road where I drove almost daily. I stopped in one day and asked if he would sell and he said yes so I asked if $500 would buy it and he said yes again. He said it would run and drive so I brought some gas and a battery and got it running. My brother and I were amazed at how it drove up out of the ruts in the dirt it had created from sitting for so long. My brother followed me home for the 5 mile trip and it never skipped a beat. It was equipped with fluid drive but I had not heard about fluid drives before and thought there must be something very wrong with the trans. I used it occasionally in my construction business and even drove it to Reno over the summit a few times to visit Lisa. I had to buy chains in Truckee on one trip and drove home in the dark during a snow storm. The heater was warm and the lights were bright ! I really liked that fluid drive but ended up selling it to a man and his daughter from Colorado around 1999. I miss that one.
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    Bob K, ALL eighteen '65 A-990 Hemi Super Stock 4-speed cars were equipped with aluminum case AND aluminum tail shaft A-833 transmissions. Not a common transmission option for that Race Hemi package, as the automatics were more consistent and quicker with the 7" allowable legal NHRA tire. There were 12 stick Plymouths out of 102 total, and 6 Dodges out of 101. A total of 18 out of a 203 fleet total! I had a 'Slick Shift' version, and they were 'brutes'! You could full power shift them (no clutch) at 7200 rpm and they would live. They were even 'standard equipment' in Chevy Pro Stocks of that era! I went back to 727 automatics with the advent of high-stall torque converters (primarily B&M 069Js). Chrysler really had the competition covered with their transmission/driveline packages. Walt R.
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    If I am going to add a glaringly non-stock component to the engine compartment such as an AC compressor, I'm certainly not going to worry about making an alternator look like a generator.....I'll save that money for gas and tires!
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    Sign up for a night welding course at your local community college. You will be glad you did for a number of reasons,one is that you will be able to weld new panels into your car as a part of your training,so you will save a BUNDLE by not having to buy what would probably end up being the wrong welder. MY personal favorite is a 140 amp switchable 120-240 Volt AC-DC MIG. Don't even THINK about buying on of the cheap made in China welders. It will be full of aluminum wiring and second rate components,and you will spend more time waiting for it to cool down or burn up than you will welding with it. Look at what Miller offers,and if you can't find a Miller the size you need on sale,pay VERY careful attention to the construction details on the Miller of your choice,and buy another brand with the same features. I bought a HTP 140 AMP AC-DC MIG welder directly from HTP over 10 years ago,and am VERY happy with it. You can even buy them from Northern Tool now. You can teach a monkey how to weld with a MIG in about a week. Basically,if you hear "eggs frying",you have it set right. What you CAN'T teach a monkey or even an intelligent human in a week is structural strength,annealing,which type of weld is best for different purposes,characteristics of different metals,etc,etc,etc. You will learn a lot about this stuff in a welding course,though. https://www.google.com/search?q=htp+welders&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8 Don't buy one yet,though. Take the night school course and THEN buy one once you figure out what it is that YOU personally want and think you need. NOTHING beats experience. BTW,even if you buy the best MIG or TIG welder in the world,you will still need a oxygen/acetylene torch set to cut steel, heat stuff using a Rosebud tip,braze,solder,and sometimes just to weld with for fun. You can do a LOT with a old torch set once you figure out different tips and different regulator pressures. For example,you can run a torch acetylene rich to put carbon back into a piece of steel that has been heated so much it has became brittle. You can also weld some VERY thin sheet steel with it once you figure out mixtures and pressures. People were using these things to hammer weld steel for probably 100 years before MIG or TIG was even thought of. BTW,the one welder you won't need is a arc welder. Your MIG will do anything a arc welder will do as far as a home garage goes,so why spend the money twice? IIRC,my 140 AMP MIG will weld up to 1/4 inch of steel in one pass. How often do you think you will be welding steel thicker than that in your home garage? My best advise to you on removing the body is "DON'T". You say you have no experience doing stuff like this,and taking a body off a chassis that might have some structural issues you don't understand well enough to know where and how to brace is not a good place to start gaining this knowledge. Besides,you can weld in all the patch panels without removing the body,so why make work for yourself unless you are doing a show-car restoration?
  32. 4 likes
    Tim put my order aside for me. And I did receive the unfortunate news about George. Tim told me about it a month or so ago. I visited Reg Evans and looked at his Langdon's Cast Iron Headers. I have the exact same fuel pump that he has, and yes, they clear that style of fuel pump. These so called Chevy designed headers, as you put it, are thick and don't have flow restrictions. I have built my own personal headers throughout the years. I wish that I had a TIG, so they weren't pretty by any means, and even though my headers weren't cosmetically appealing, they worked great. The last set I created, well I admit, I was lazy and I used two different designed headers, and married them together. I have had them on my car now for over 15 years with 60,000 + miles, no issues. BUT, the set that I am talking about is on a Slant Six, not a flathead. Definitely not the same engine. I do take time to research things before I do it. I have installed headers on not only Mopars, but other makes to. And I have done things that other guys told me was impossible. If you feel the need to put me down and make accusations that I never installed a set of headers, that is fine with me. If you knew me, you would feel differently about the subject. And I am not going to fight with you about it anyway, I just don't do that kind of thing. I will use the Langdon's in the future, and they will work for my application. I have been tinkering with machines for almost 40 years now, and by no means claim to be the best out there. Every day is a new day, and I have learned alot from a lot of different people. Even from folks that are not mechanics! I still see things that are outside of the box that just blow me away now and then. I will admit that I have made mistakes, and I am certainly human. I am terribly sorry that you are frustrated with this product, and I certainly can empathize... I also value your opinion, I try to learn different ways of achieving a more effecient goal. Tim Kingsbury really speaks highly regarding George's split manifold's. He wouldn't mention it if the idea didn't work and make power. And it's good to know that tubed headers may have a short lifespan. Please forgive me if I rubbed you the wrong way, that wasn't my intention.
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    So Cal freeways no thanx, and this is not a slam either. How can that be any enjoyment, especially in an old heap. 60-65-70 is 1 thing, but 80-90 mph, don't even think about it. I don't even like those speeds in my 2015 hemi powered Ram. Even at 60 mph plus, in mulitlane busy traffic you better have the brakes and steering to back it up in a new york second. Here is my truck, pic taken early Sunday morning not far from home..
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    You can try the hit and miss approach by doing the good suggestions above or do a one time major service and never have to deal with it again. Pull the radiator and get it cleaned. (same with the heater if you have one) While it is out pull and replace the water distribution tube. Remove the freeze plugs and flush the block till clear. Replace hoses. Go back to the 160 degree stat. (These are not presurized cooling systems and the 180 stat loses you 20 degrees of cooling capacity) Check water pump and fan belt. While it is out pull the back cover and check for bearing and impeller wear. Or just replace and be done with it.The impellers do fail. Insect fan belt replace if needed and adjust properly. Refill with a 50 50 mix water and antifreeze. You heating issues will be over and you will just need to flush every couple years. By doing it all at once you save a lot of time and some money.
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    And this is why I'm calling it the little blue truck. It doesn't exactly look like the truck in the book but I like to read these books to my daughter. And she enjoys them so that's what we're sticking with
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    The wood grained panels the 46-48 DeSoto Suburban are high-pressure laminate, Bakelite brand, layers of phenolic-saturated paper with a printed woodgrain layer, hot-pressed over wood molds. Perfect for low production applications. I sprayed them with clear enamel to hide the years of surface scratches. The window moldings are metal, with the secret woodgraining process that mystifies us to this day, something about floating the image in water and raising the object into it. Here are the Bakelite panels and woodgrained metal moldings and dashboard:
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    Open trunk - the DeSoto Suburban -
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    See, that's the difference. I'll bet a well maintained drum system would not stop as well as a disc system that hasn't been looked at for 20k miles the first hard stop. I'm not even going to talk about the second, third or fourth hard stop in a row. I don't have the data except for every car manufacturer (ok maybe there is one left in some corner of the planet) moving away from front drum brakes. Their engineers probably have loads of data for you. Now let's compare apples to apples.... Drive a drum braked car for 10k miles and do nothing to the brakes, then drive a disc braked car 10k miles and do nothing to the brakes. Repeat stopping test. This is more of a real world test. Adam
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    Being from o.c California, I travel the 5,91,605,710 freeways in my 51 coronet flathead. And my buddy also in his 49 Plymouth. Bone stock. Little by little we've been getting more "umph" out of the Lhead. Cruising at 65mph slow lane sharing . Some people don't care much and swerve around, others mean mug us. But nothing that the bird can't translate better to show that I don't care.
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    I've had more issues on the 2 lanes than the freeways. Freeway you just stay to the right and let the crazies go around. 2 lane they gotta pass you and that's not always possible as soon as they'd like it
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    Actually, it's to allow a small amount of coolant to circulate past the thermostat so that there is some circulation through the block. This helps get the hotter coolant up to the thermostat so that it can sense the temperature better. It also helps to eliminate uneven temperature buildup within the block.
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    Here is my take on this subject. Years ago my parents had a 1961 Buick and I had a brand new 1971 Duster both cars had drum brakes. One day while driving my parents car I had to attempt to lock the brakes up at around 60 MPH. The tires squealed for about a half second then the brakes faded due to heat and no matter how hard I smashed the pedal I lost all braking ability. I was able to pull a Dale Earnhardt maneuver and avoid a crash. One day in the Duster I had to lock up the brakes at around 75 MPH. All 4 wheels locked and the car was all over the road but I was able to pull a Richard Petty maneuver and avoided a crash. Both of these incidents happened in a small goat sized town in Ohio much smaller than the cow town of Fort Wayne, Indiana. My point being that drum brakes can work and lock up the wheels but brake fade can be a problem. On my P-15 I found a disc brake conversion cost about the same as a complete drum brake rebuild but the advantage of disc brakes is replacement parts are available at any auto parts store. The conversion was very easy and the stopping power is far superior. I have had to make a few quick stops in my P-15 with the disc brakes and I am able to control the lock up with pedal pressure and keep the car in a straight line. All parts required for the disc brake conversion. Grand total around five hundred US cow town bucks.
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    To the best of my knowledge all Dodge Desoto Plymouth & Chrysler blocks since the mid 30s had stellite exhaust seats to give longer valve life. I have a T designated 251 block here now with inserts on the intakes as well. Unless your block's seats are cracked or pitted beyond service, just have them reground. This is a service operation that your machine shop is familiar with. Ford V-8 blocks had two levels of hardness for their seats. One hard, the other very much softer. This may be what your machinist is thinking. Long service on unleaded gas has caused no problems on any of the engines I have been involved with, including one which has now logged 80 000 miles since it was rebuilt.
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    I got you covered for #8 Brent as I arrived in CA early this morning after an almost 14hr flight. Best news just confirmed is that I'll be heading to the BBQ with both Hank & Rod. We arranged a hire car just before a should arrive at the BBQ around 10am Saturday.... see you all then.
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    I believe the fire rating is " Hello, 911.....my car is on fire and....ooooh, never mind it just melted thru the driveway......
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    Its a tuning fork..........you hit the carby and/or dissy with it and once you hit those parts with the right amount of force and in the right place the car just humms along.............o/k........I've found my corner, going there now......andyd
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    My oh My oh my!!! I give you Tim and all the rest of the guys a super BIG thank You! Now I feel bad I'm not going to be there! I really do. Brent last summer even offered to load me up and take me there for this year's event too......and Big Red! Well maybe not the truck I'm going to camp out in the rain by the mailbox waiting for my trophy... even sleep there if i have too. Gee I really do feel loved by ya all Rob
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    I still have mine I got back in 1963... looks just the same as when I rode it as a kid...