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  1. 6 points
  2. 5 points
    fhubler

    Views From The Old Dodge

    Here are a few vintage views through the windshield of the old Dodge from this week...
  3. 5 points
    Conn47D24

    Field Coil Screws

    Reading up on past threads here I saw that several have had a hard time with starter and generator rebuilds due to these magnet / field coil screws. Mine were no different, impact hammer and air tool started stripping the slot. I found a great tip on the AACA Forum. Using my C-293 Miller tool and a slotted 1/2 drive socket I had an easy time of it . Squeeze the socket into the frozen screw slot, and turn the shaft with a wrench. Very happy today that I invested in this tool ! :-) Now on the the rebuild. Shout out to Rich Hartung ( Miller Man ) Clay
  4. 5 points
    moose

    New Tachometer

    Got the chance and put this in my 54 yesterday. I'm having trouble putting the video on here, but if you go find me on Instagram(@manifoldsbymoose) you can see it in action.
  5. 5 points
    ggdad1951

    new job pics from onboarding

    spent a week in Columbus, IN for onboarding at Cummins....some pics of the museum. Now go buy a RAM for daily driving!
  6. 5 points
    JOHN EDGE

    Ocala pumpkin car show

    This weekend I ran up to the annual pumpkin car show in Ocala Florida. It's a great show and attracts around 600 cars and trucks and attendance is usually around 20000. Having gotten the 52 Plymouth suburban done around April this year I've show it a few times and I'm still amazed at the attention this vehicle gets. We've never done a Plymouth out of our shop and my partner thought I was crazy doing this vehicle but people seem to love it. We have many high dollars cars in our shop and this Plymouth has really made me a believer that people want something different to look at. Well back to the show. I was only able to stay Saturday for about 4 hrs so Sunday I get a call from the show chairman telling me I had an award. I said thanks but I wasn't coming up Sunday and said fine he would save it for me. Well that little wagon won best of show and $250.00 prize money. I was floored.. So keep showing those old mopars people love em
  7. 4 points
    I just purchased this time capsule 1947 Dodge Deluxe from the 90 year old son of the original owner and I thought I'd share. Original paint should polish up with great patina and the original interior is nearly immaculate. There is no wear on any part of this interior. No rust. All there, with rear fenders and some trim, etc started to be removed many years ago. We still can't find the bumpers (which they had re-chromed) but they might still be lurking. If they are not, anyone have a lead on them? This is a Canadian Plodge. Thankfully, the engine is free with clean oil and they were wise enough to remove the gas tank and rad and clean them out many years ago to avoid fouling. Pictures in the links below: http://i66.tinypic.com/2h5k70h.jpg[/IMG] http://i67.tinypic.com/v4896c.jpg[/IMG] http://i65.tinypic.com/655u9t.jpg[/IMG]
  8. 4 points
    knuckleharley

    V8 conversion for my 47 P15 sedan

    My only advise is something you don't want to hear. You already have a strong,good-running,hopped up inline 6 that will comfortably cruise at or above the legal speed limit anywhere in the country,so why fix it if it isn't broken? If you need AC,it's as easy to put AC on the flat 6 as it is a V-8. If you just GOTTA have a V-8,why not sell your car and buy one that needs a engine and transmission to alter? You can probably get a pretty nice price for your car,and the ones with no engines or transmissions usually sell pretty low,so you might even save a few bucks. If you decide to make the swap anyhow,make sure you advertise your old engine and trans on the classifieds here. Someone will want them.
  9. 4 points
    Wanted to share the path we went down in trying to save the original Pressboard type Inner Firewall Cover from our P15 project. Ours was looking pretty sad and had a few areas on the drivers side that were missing. What I found available as a direct fit replacement looked either cheap (stapled together) or one that looked pretty descent, (was at least a molded piece) but was close to $300. I've got $50 in the following repair to our firewall cover and thought I'd like to share this here on the forum. I also applied the same method to my other cardboard/pressboard kick panels and heater side panel ducts with consistent results. Loctite 2 part epoxy, 1/8th inch pressboard/chipboard material (I purchased a new 12" x 16" piece off ebay for $3 dollars - delivered), 4 cans of Plasti-Dip flat black, and 1 can of Plasti-Dip Glossifier with Fade Buster (depending on where you get it, Lowes versus a smaller hdw. store like Ace, ea. can costs around $6-7 dollars). I used masking tape on the areas that were frayed (like the edges of the openings of the cover), to make form walls to hold the Loctite 2 part epoxy in place while it cured. larger spots I took a very small amount of fiberglass matt, cut it up with scissors, and mixed it in with the epoxy for strength). I used the new 1/8 " chipboard to make new pieces to replace areas that were missing, and applied the same process we used in doing fiberglass repair. Which is as follows: there's much less strength in attaching two sections with a square 90 degree angle, you just don't get enough glued surface area contact to allow for strength, but overlap the two pieces and mate them together by shaping each piece with an overlapping taper (so one piece rests upon the other piece ) and you gain strength. The rule of thumb we used doing fiberglass repair was to make your tapered surface area where your going to glue things back together, equal to the new surface area you area attaching. Never had one fail that way. I've attached some pics we took along the way, that show the firewall cover from the day we removed, then mid stream epoxy and chipboard repairs, and then this past week when they got Plasti-Dipped. Pretty straight forward easy. Like with all this kind of stuff, being clean is critical. I used brake parts cleaner to clean areas before glueing, and also before applying the Plasti Dip. I like the brake parts cleaner as it leaves no residue and dries away quickly. (This was all a "what have we got to lose kinda thing", but our bonds seem strong and we had no sings of contamination when applying epoxy or the Plasti Dip). The information is not found on the cans, but if you go read their tech sheet found on the internet, the plasti dip shows a temp range of -30f to 200 f, good chemical resistance (however petroleums are shown as limited), which I didn't think should be a big problem inside the car, and a life of 7-10 years (outside in the weather) with the UF coating applied. I really liked the flat black of the Plasti Dip (before the uv top coat was added which also gives it the gloss) a little better than the gloss finish, and debated on whether the sun could get to the very bottom of the Cover enough to warrant using the UV top coat, but decided to go that route for a bit more assurance in regards to longevity. Course once the epoxy repairs set up, you've got a bit of easy sanding to do...and before applying the Plasti Dip I went over the entire panels with a red scotch brite pad and brake parts cleaner..to promote adhesion. Fun stuff..whether it's sanding a part and painting it, or something like this,...I really enjoy trying to make these old forgotten, neglected parts look like something again. Steve'o
  10. 4 points
    Your close.. we were talking canadian 25 1/2" engines.. from 1935 to 1959. My Grandfather was hired by Walter Chrysler himself and was an Engineer. My Dad was an automotive engineer, worked on a ton of different chrysler engines, from flatheads to v8s to Hemis and over all kinds of applications and racing. He did not work for Chrysler. My Grandfather was the GM of the engine plant in Windsor Ontario. I do not have all of the stuff grandfather had.. I do have an entire room 12 x 24 feet, set up like a library with rows 8 feet high with documentation. When Grandfather retired, the flathead was no longer even remotely current and as part of his retirement package he was allowed to take home his personal library from the engine plant of all the obsolete stuff. Honestly I have no clue how much there is. its not dozens of manuals. Its not hundreds of manuals, its thousands. I would guess just his work diaries, notes, drawings etc would be several hundred thousands of pages. At one point he offered to give it all to the Chrysler Museum and they passed. He did donate about a couple of pallets of documentation.
  11. 3 points
    John-T-53

    V8 conversion for my 47 P15 sedan

    Maybe he'll post some when not under fire...
  12. 3 points
    52b3b Joe

    48 Desoto Project

    I thought I'd give another update. Since last time, I have all the rust repair done, and the holes where the spot lights were patched. I've been playing around with knocking more dents out of the front clip, and we got all the trim off the car. My dad marked, and labeled the wiring harness (quite a project), and has that removed now too. This weekend we will start preparing the body for a coat of epoxy primer. Between the rest of my vacation this year from work, and the holidays, I'd like to get it in primer and some of the body work done by the first of the year. Not much to see in terms of progress, but here are some pictures.
  13. 3 points
    While a pre oil pump or sump design is certainly an improvement, its over kill and definitely not anything your going to need. On pistons, again, for what your talking its over kill. Cast pistons with 4 rings are more than capable of running a couple of hundred thousand miles. Now in terms of original pistons and rings, well right off the bat it depends on what engine your talking about. There were forged pistons and cast pistons, as well as chrome rings and cast rings used over the decades in flathead mopars. But for a discussion on which is better, original 1930-1959 technology verses modern forged pistons and modern rings well there is little question which is better. We use custom pistons are rings all the time. The biggest issue is simple.. They are expensive. But in my 1949 Plymouth or our dragster, they are Venola Top Fuel Pistons, coated with plasma moly rings. They are smaller, lighter, stronger and.... expensive. I will attach a picture of a modern forged piston sitting beside an OEM 265 ci piston from 1954. The last 6 pictures are the pistons we had custom made for the 1933 Plymouth race car, and as you can see the rings are super thin. But back to your engine your describing, you dont need that. You should be able to do a rebuild with decent cast pistons, decent bearings etc and never have to rebuild it again. Even if you want to bore it out a bunch, regrind the cam to some mild custom grind, deck the block, shave the head etc, you dont need pre-oil pump and custom pistons. But then, lol, there is lots I dont really need but I have anyways, so by all means fill your boots.
  14. 3 points
    Hey John - Just to clarify as I sit here laughing while reading your post, I am definitely not taking over George's business or anything close to that. Ive know George for over 20 years. George has been building performance flathead engines for over 60 years. His 1929 Desoto which he still owns was undefeated at the Flying Mile on Daytona Beach in 1955 at 142 mph. That highly modified 265ci engine was built by George. George built the engines for his Uncle Harry Hiens who is in the nascar hall of fame. Those flathead engines were legendary for beating all kinds of v8s. My family background dates back to my Grandfather who worked for Chrysler starting in the 1930s, my Dad who was also an automotive engineer, who build flathead stock car engines in the 50s and 60s, later moving on to building engines for a number of well known top fuel racers. My background really pales in comparison to all of those, although have grown up around some of the best and brightest in the industry.While I do have an automotive engineering degree, it was definately not where the bulk of my career focused by any stretch. I did run a car in the pro stock class in the 1970s and owned the track record at Toronto International when it closed. While I helped build a couple of engines for that car, it was really as an assistant as it was primarily both of my grandfathers that were the primary builders along with my Dad. I have been fortunate to have known George Asche Jr and he and his family have enjoyed a special bond with my family for a long time. From that yes with George, my Dad Eddy along with a buddy I went to school with and myself we did come up with a couple of performance intakes. As you point out that is likely where George and I are likely better known and your also correct George would be pretty well known for his building of overdrives, carbs, linkage etc. But that really is a tip of the iceberg in many ways. George had built likely 50 performance engines since I have known him, and maybe that is a conservative number. In the last 5 years I know he has build 18 of them. Now I think its safe to say that he would say, as my Dad would have while he was still alive as I would, were always interested in learning more about flathead mopar engines, and improving them. None of use pretend to know everything about them in terms of improving their performance. That being said, let me say this about the topic of oiling. There are lots of things you can do to improve the oiling. 1st thing with any rebuild is to simply turn the two cam bearings from using the big hole, which is how they came from the factory, to using the small hole. There is way more oil hitting the cam than was ever needed. Next make sure you have good oil pressure, which really is a way of saying make sure you have a good oil pump. Yes there were higher volume oil pumps for trucks. Yes we try and use them on higher rpm builds but for 99% of every engine I hear being built its not required. I could go though a bunch of tips but unless your planning on spinning your engine above, let me peg it at 5000 rpm regularly and your running a long stroke engine, you dont need it. Use the small hole in the cam bearing, make sure your have a good oil pump and drive on drive on. In terms of a couple of race engines.. Attached are pictures of a 1933 Plymouth. Its spent its life as a road racer. It was highly competitive at the Brickyard at Indy and was a engine build by a well known engine builder. Its owner found out the hard way that yes there is a portion of the track with a bank on it, and as he rode up the bank to pass a Porsche and a Ferrari he lost oil pressure and it locked up. It literally bent a rod and another rod broke loose and went through the block. George was called on to build the new engine for the car, and what I will say is in this years season, the car which has always been competitive, rose up the ranks significantly and the performance improvements were categorized by its owner as "simply incredible how much additional power it has".. Here is was recently as it has finished off the race season and was brought back to George for some further improvements, including changing the fuel distribution, and changing the rear end gearing. This engine is capable of in excess of 6000rpm and of course another video of the AoK dragster (which for you trivia fans, AoK was a name George came up with.. It stands for Asche over Kingsbury).. and George's official answer to the question of - " how fast is that car".. Answer - "Its faster than the average Echo" Aka The Toyota Echo.. A couple of things off topic I like to note here putting to rest the myth that you need electronic ignition for a performance engine, this engine runs an original Chrysler dual point distributor with points! Yes its been modified, but there is no electronic ignition. Yes we also do have a magneto set up for the car to eliminate the battery but what we were puddling with here is trying to get the idle off of the stall which used to be around 2000 rpm. Now down to just over 1000 rpm, its quite easy to drive. Back to the oiling in the engine. Yes we grooved bearings, and did some internal drilling and modifications to get oil return. We have a windage tray with crank scrapers for pulling off oil as this engine spins well above 7000 rpm.
  15. 3 points
    j scott

    Need help with my 1954 truck?!

    Also Andy Burnbaum obsolete moparparts. Keep the Dodge a Dodge, put a 318 in there .
  16. 3 points
    dpollo

    Will not Cross Drill my crank

    The oiling system is covered in a Chrysler Technical film which can be found elsewhere on this forum. Look for Bryan's post on page 2 of Help picking an engine for my 40 Chrysler ....Of course, you have already seen it, Bryan. but it is pretty good. The gyrotor pump as found on all post war engines provides more than enough volume for all situations, even the engine oil filled torque converters of 53 and 4
  17. 3 points
    greg g

    Will not Cross Drill my crank

    Keep in mind the the quality assurance folks at the engine assembly lines pulled random engines from the line, mounted them on a dyno, and ran them for 50 hours at 3600 rpm. That works out to about 3000 non stop miles at peak HP, against a load. I guess this would be a pretty thorough challenge of any weakness in the oiing system. I would put my money on properly fit new bearings and perhaps a higher volume oil pump on a cleaned out system, for any rebuild meant to operate on any road anywhere on the earth's surface.
  18. 3 points
    kridgleyud

    1940 Dodge D14 Build Thread

    Hello Folks still following this ... motor was installed Sunday, just getting around to uploading pics to this thread. Couple hiccups but nothing major. this motor has the oil pan sump forward ... so had to remove a steering arm temporarily until I put on the original pan ... need to clean up and paint to match. Hoping the pickup doesn't need to move, but this is doable if needed. She went in pretty easy and looking good. I've got the old oil pump that I knocked the drive gear off of to prime her ... need to work out accelerator linkage, recheck torques, fittings and the static timing and get ready to fire it up. stay tuned.
  19. 3 points
    White Spyder

    A nice one at a show this weekend

    Thought the group would enjoy.
  20. 3 points
    Todd B

    Photos of my B2B 4th try

    Wow 2% sales tax. I guess that’s when most people worked for a living and we didn’t need all the extra to support ones who didn’t.
  21. 3 points
  22. 3 points
    59bisquik

    1955 C1B Build Thread

    Went to Huffarama the other weekend. The truck ended up in the Daily Driver online magazine. The new chrome on the front looks good!
  23. 3 points
    A few pics from this evening's cruise. These darn cars make me eat so much ice cream. I wonder how many cones have been eaten in this car over the past 64 years? I was experimenting with my iPhone tonight taking some pics. You can get some groovy distorted looking images. Lots of fanatical waves and thumbs up tonight during my cruise route. I stopped for gas and a guy approached and said he loved the car. Could he take a few pictures? Of course, I replied. Thank you. I took her up several good hills tonight. Testing her for speed and watching the temp gauge. I hit my local hill in 3rd, pulled hard, shifted into 4th and pushed on up, hitting 50 MH. Speed limit was 30 MPH so I did not go any faster. She ran great. Great cars these old Chryslers.
  24. 3 points
    I'd like you folks to meet Abby. She's never been in my car. @Worden18 it seems we have more than old Flat 6 Green Mopars in common. Abby is older now. Her young bouncing days are behind her. She'll be 12 next summer. She sits kinda on her RR leg these days. Great dogs, boxers. No pics with my dog in my Chrysler. She leaves hair everywhere she goes! On the car, not much new to share. 2 more weeks left on my insurance for the year. I plan to get a few more fall cruises in and then get to my planned winter car work projects.
  25. 3 points
    Update: after a summer of woodworking to pay for the wedding, various small home improvements and what have you....I have landed at Cummins as a Technical Specialist for 10l -24l diesel gensets. I start Nov 6th, s pay cut but it I think in the long run a good place to land. Done with being a big wheel on a small truck...I'll gladly be a large cog on a wheel on a HUGE truck.
  26. 3 points
    Kris Bolstad

    Pilot-House Friends

    Shared a bit of history and photos end of August. Truck was laid up at the time with hopes of having it going again for my Dad's visit. New wheel cylinders on the front, tires for the back and all tires balanced. Running pretty good - 50 mph per gps unit with pedal to spare. And it stops. See above post for shot of Dad back in 1980. Few additional photos for kicks and whistles
  27. 3 points
    JOHN EDGE

    Dual carb/split intake

    Here's my two cents.. Drove my 100% stock 44,000 mile 52 Plymouth suburban 218 cubic inch motor for around 10 months while I collected parts. First thing was going thru the motor. Bored .040 and freshen everything . Back together and drove. No real performance improvement but ran as designed. Next step was intake and carbs. Better drive ability improved starting and idle. Next came the split exhaust manifolds and the acceleration seemed smoother and the exhaust sound was quite improved. Finally the aluminum head and the raising of the compression ratio by 1 point. Some final adjustments to the carbs and timing. Add an electric fuel pump and I now had a vehicle that ran with traffic both leaving the traffic lights and cruised on the interstate at 75 with ease and got 20 miles to a gallon. The comparison from stock to mildly modified is such an improvement that I would never consider driving it without these upgrades
  28. 3 points
    fargorat

    Rolled A pillar?

    just wanted to mention what i did to fix the problem i had with the door fit that was having me stumped. some were maybe wondering what the heck did i do to fix the door fit because i never did get back. took all the info that was suggested and a big thanks to los_control for the measurements. it has been almost a year since i walked away from it because of work, kids and what not. i just completed the repair last week and it damn near made me sick grinding my new paint job. i ground off the weld at the pillar and floor and tightened down with c clamp to bring pillar against floor, measured and welded. when i clamped it brought the pillar back to where it was originally with a little persuasion to give me the correct gap. pic shows pillar is now against floor with a flush fit. door is installed and fits the way it should.
  29. 3 points
    52b3b Joe

    48 Desoto Project

    I took a vacation day today from work, and I spent it on the car. I was able to get the inner fenders repaired, sand blasted, epoxy primed, and painted. They came out pretty good. The rust repair was a pretty fun project, especially making the new battery tray. I polished a couple spots on the inner fenders before I started working on them to get the original green/gray/blue color matched. The paint store around the corner from my house was able to get it perfect! I'm happy with the results.
  30. 3 points
    Umm If I didnt say dont post that one the forum I should have and the reason being is almost every time it winds up costing me tons of time to defend the facts or winds up into a scrap which to be honest is why I stay off the forum as much as I can. The why are you here now.. well 8 members emailed me today and lol... dragged me back in. I also hate Wikepedia, but to save some time, here is the listing for just the car engines https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chrysler_flathead_engine I haven't checked for accuracy but it shows 27 engines and I know from my Grandfathers documentation, just out of the Canadian Engine Plant starting in 1935 for the 1936 model year to the end of production in 1959 there were over 55 cams just for cars. On the truck side, there were specs for pickups and bigger trucks using the exact same engine, and then another cam change for those engines where they used multiple carbs. Aka 1952 265. Now ad over 37 different combination of the flathead 6 for marine, ranging from civilian to military to different variation for different countries depending on octane level. Next we have the agricultural sector which had combines for 4 different manufacturers, 6 swathers, 3 tractors and then different generations of those and you have a bunch more cams. Then there were water pumps, which used 11 different flatheads, welders with over 22 different flatheads, aircraft, welders, snowmobiles, tugs for aircraft, fork lifts, loaders and generators. There were 14 cams just for air compressors, some of which drove a compressor and some of which used some of the cylinders to produce air. On the miltary side absolutely ever engine had its one spec and cams. From cars, trucks, power wagons, heck even tanks. The reality is we have the specs we can grind over 80 different cams, it is not there were over 80 different cams.. Hell I havent even counted it but its several hundred different cams for flatheads. Go find any engine in history that was used in more places than the flathead mopar 6 cylinder... If there is one, Its sure wont be a small block chevy.. Lol.. why do people this a small block chevy is the gold standard for anything ? Actually but since your on the topic.. Just for marine.. not talking whatever else a SBC is used for, but just marine, I could find 17 different cam specs. Im not picking on you but I did have to laugh.. 8.. There are at least 51 cam patterns just for the Canadian, USA, British, and Israel military just for the Canadian 25 1/2" engine.. Different hp, different octane, different fuel from gas to propane to some weird fuel requirements out on the field. I have no idea how many more there were for the USA side. I do agree there are lots of 25 1/2" still around which is amazing given the last one rolled out of the engine plant in Windsor before I was born in 1960. But the plant pretty much ran around the clock from 1952 to the switch over to the slant six in 1959.
  31. 3 points
    59bisquik

    1955 C1B Build Thread

    Just got my hood ornament back from repair and chrome. I can wait to get it back on.
  32. 2 points
    Got Best of show today in Concord North Carolina. Great Cars there - about 300 - 350 Cars
  33. 2 points
    pflaming

    Views From The Old Dodge

    I'm 79 so I recall some of the war years, the many flights of airplanes to the west coast, rationed gas, tires, sugar, flour, a new '46 Chevy car after the war, no electricity, and like others returning service men who would not talk about what they experienced. Today I cry for what this once great country is becoming. Of all things I read these days, this forum, sans religion and politics, is my lifeline. Getting so anxious to get my '53 Plymouth on the road. Car pic exactly like ours, with rear windshield wiper, backup lights, heater under the passenger seat, but no white walls. My mother died in April of '47, 33 years old, "The best of times, the worst of times"!
  34. 2 points
    California....... sorry could not resist......https://www.allpar.com/corporate/factories/los-angeles.html
  35. 2 points
    TodFitch

    Is Craftsman comming back?

    Back in my youth I worked for a while on the factory floor of an aerospace firm. I remember there was an assembly where the design engineer had not left enough room for a socket to get on a bolt head in a recess of a casting. And being in a recess, only a socket could be used. The manufacturing "fix" was to take a normal socket and grind the outside down enough to fit into the recess. It turned out that the only brand socket they could do that with was Snap On. It was the only one with good enough steel that you could grind away most of the material and still be strong enough to get the nut properly torqued. All the other brand sockets would break on first use after being abused like that. Fortunately there was a Snap On warehouse not too far away too. Not sure what the relative quality is of the high end tools are today, but back then Snap On was definitely top of the heap.
  36. 2 points
    dale

    V8 conversion for my 47 P15 sedan

    Leave the Ply just the way it is.
  37. 2 points
    Plymouthy Adams

    46 Plymouth at SEMA 2017

    I said to myself, don't open that..SEMA....can't be good....BUT....I just can't argue with myself, I opened it and I was right...don't open that...
  38. 2 points
  39. 2 points
    52b3b Joe

    48 Desoto Project

    I'm still at it! I typically work on the car 1-2 nights a week and at least one weekend day. It doesn't look like much is happening in the pictures, but I have the metal work on the rear fenders done, and over half of the front clip's rust repair is completed. We're getting pretty good at taking the front clip on and off to fit and tack the patches in to keep the door gaps halfway right. Hopefully we're doing the car justice. (Disclaimer - Once again I'm no welder/body work expert!) The repairs for the inner parts of the front fenders (as seen in the first picture) were a bit tedious to say the least, but they are done! That had to be near perfect to put the outer skin back on with a crimped edge (like a door skin is crimped) and keep the door gaps and fender shape right. I also don't know if I mentioned it before, but all the metal I have used on this car is from an old metal desk I got for free. I can't believe how much it cost to buy a sheet of metal when you can generally find desk like this for free or minimal costs! I did most of my truck with this same desk. I also included a picture of the paint code for the inner fenders/trunk/floor/everything they used that blue/gray/greenish color on. Not sure if anyone could use it or not. I'm not sure how the code will cross either if at all, but this was a cheaper single stage urethane Valspar paint.
  40. 2 points
    thrashfit

    Cab to chassis gap

    Many thanks 59bisquik, I have set my cab to clear two fingers as I have new cab mounts, I hope your fingers aren't too much bigger than mine or this could go wrong...Lol. Cheers, Dave.............precise engineering at its best...
  41. 2 points
    Adam H P15 D30

    distributor question

    I would also add that the Landon HEI is a better choice because you can take full advantage of the powerful spark the HEI can deliver. Being that there is almost no primary resistance needed in an HEI system, you can safely open the plug gap to .050 or more and kick up the secondary voltage to 50kv + and not worry about heat or coil saturation. The cap is where the difference is between the slant 6 / HEI mod and an actual HEI (Tom's). Though the slant 6 / HEI is capable of the same high voltage, the distributor cap and rotor were never designed to handle that kind of spark energy and may suffer a shorter life span, Tom's HEI is an HEI cap designed for the high secondary voltage. I kept my plug gap at .040 with my slant 6 / HEI set up. You MUST use the square HEI coil to do this as the round coil would quickly overheat. I know I'm splitting hairs here and probably dragging this a little off topic, apologies.... Adam EDIT: You could also use the points to trigger an HEI and point gap wouldn't matter anymore and the points would never burn up, you would only replace them when the wear block wears down. It's a little involved electronically to make is work correctly but doable. The HEI would trigger when the points closed and therefore rotor phasing would be off but a very simple electronic inverter would fix it. I built one inside my old voltage regulator to hide it. HEI Schematic.pdf Resistor is a 4.7 k-ohm 1/2 watt or higher wattage Transistor is a 2n2222a NPN
  42. 2 points
    kendall

    Anyone 'yabadadoo' their truck?

    I'm aghast at being able to load pictures at will w/o the "3 meg limit" note!
  43. 2 points
    Iowaboy

    Photos of my B2B 4th try

    Here are more photos. Someone was talking about whether dual horns was an add-on. My truck has them as you can see. The first picture was taken when the truck was removed from my brother-in-laws garage to load it up. It had been stored here since 1981. I've cleaned it up since. You can see that the rear bumper has been modified to a solid cross beam and a support to the rear fender added. The mirrors are original according to my wife, she was 10 when her dad bought it. The parking brake is there, its handle is up under the dash. All the gauges work including the dash lights and the heater. Haven't tried the fog lights. I don't know if they're original, if not, I'm sure they were added by the dealership. The dealer was a friend of the family, as would be expected in a mountain town of 2000 on the Colorado river. There is no rust anywhere, except for the battery storage cover which has some rust on it, on this truck.
  44. 2 points
    Plymouthy Adams

    Barton Mfg signal guide

    that winky cat thing is just a target here in the south.....I have seen folks run off the road just to get a cat.....them suckers are fast..... the stop light thing is pure novelty....you would be surprised to know most folks are riding close to your bumper trying to figure out what you have hanging in the rear of the car....
  45. 2 points
    Iowaboy

    Photos of my B2B 4th try

    The truck runs well. I changed the oil, flushed the gas tank and lines, put in new plugs, and an Optima battery. The truck started up on the first turn after i poured some gas in the carb. The truck was last licensed in 1981. It has been in my wife's family since being bought new in 1950 by her father. I have the original bill of sale which i will post. My father in law worked for Mobil Oil, Socony, in Rifle, Colorado. He drove this truck carrying supplies and pipe fittings up into the mountains. They worked in line camps, on the oil and gas wells during the week. My wife's brother (94) passed and the heirs offered me the truck. It has 88,000 miles. A sticker on the pillar indicates that in 1965 the oil was changed with 85000 miles. So it has not been driven much since then. It has always been garaged. I am replacing the brakes on the front. I am very anxious to get it on the road. I used to ride in it up in the mountains with my father in law, 53 years ago. It was slow going, but couldn't be in a hurry on those roads. I was really happy to find this forum, i will be asking questions. took me forever to figure out how to post pictures.
  46. 2 points
    keithb7

    Valve Lash Setting

    I can understand, however would like to offer another perspective that I have, from setting my 1953 265 valves. I am not a seasoned pro. However I I did set my valves cold, then later checked and re-set them hot, with the engine running. The exhaust manifold is hot. An average pair of gloves takes care of that easily. It's not messy. Pretty well most of the same steps are taken to set the valves cold or hot. The front wheel comes off. The inner fender window removed. The valve covers removed. Then the feeler gages and wrenches are needed. When cold, the engine must be turned over so that you are setting the valve clearance with the tappet 180 degrees from the top of the cam ramp. I believe TDC gets you there. Once set, the 6 cylinder engine is turned again another 120 degrees to set the next set of valves. In the proper firing order. You carry on, for each cylinder. With the engine hot and running, for example you put your .010 feeler gage in the exhaust valve/tappet gap and measure. If it won't go in the gap, clearance is too tight. If it goes in easily and ticking stops, then its too loose. I found that a proper valve setting, offered a slight tug on the feeler gage. It naturally wanted to slowly, and softly pull the feeler gage into the clearance gap while the engine was running. There is no mess. Oil is not splashing around and getting on everything. The feeling that l developed, of the running engine, the engine pulling the feeler gage in, was solid confirmation that I felt I had it set right. The fine threads on the tappets make for nice easy adjustments. After a few trial and error lessons you get a good feeling how much to turn the threads to make up a 1 or 2 thou adjustment. My engine is running excellent and I feel like I got the valve clearances right. Seems to me that setting the valves cold is a great start. Then put the valve covers back on and the front tire. Go for a drive and come back home hot. Quickly jack up car, pull wheel and valve covers. Access the valves and test the clearances with the car running. Its a nice confirmation. As you know, incorrectly set valves often leads to a mess of related problems. Yes its hot. Messy? I did not have a mess. I found it was way messier pulling the oil filter, sucking the oil out and removing the sludge, than setting hot valves. Good luck whatever you decide to do. I just thought it may be helpful to share my experience. Initially I was intimidated at the thought of sticking my hands in a hot running engine. Near hot exhaust and moving parts with tons of force. In the end I thoroughly enjoyed the new experience.
  47. 2 points
    Great day to skip work and go on a cruise. Fall is well under way up here in Western Canada. Today is the only cruise friendly day I’ve seen in the past 2 weeks. Not many days left for the ‘53 in 2017. I’m savoring every minute. Certainly not a day to be stuck at work. Off to another icecream stand!
  48. 2 points
    James G

    No reverse or first gear

    Got the transmission back in today. I now have first and reverse, Yaaaa! Went out cruising around for about 4 hours
  49. 2 points
    Plymouthy Adams

    My LA Dodgers

    that could very well be a picture of any spouse forced to watch a stupid sport....
  50. 2 points
    greg g

    Dim headlights

    Reg the relay acts like the starter solenoid, where a light load triggers the switch to connect a higher load through the relay. Typically you could pick up power for the relay from the terminal block that feeds the head lights One should be sufficient for the pair of lows and another for high beams. The wire that comes from the dimmer switch would power the relay, a new feed to carry battery to relay and then the lines to the lamps to the power out of the relay. Some relays are self grounding, some need a dedicated ground wire. This one shows for 12v but is typical. 86 takes power from dimmer. When selected it completes power connection 30 to 87 the lamps. One for low one for high. You can mount near the term block and shouldn't need to run new wires, except for batteryto relay feeds. Battery to 30 probably wants to be min 12 gauge for 6 v.
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