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  1. 13 likes
    Some of you are connected to me on Facebook, and have seen the pictures, but the back story I want to share here might be of interest. Last week I followed a lead that took me to a house about 19 miles northwest of me where I found another P15c Plymouth patiently waiting for resurrection. The car, a nice example of loving care over its 70 years of existence, is now in my garage and has become the second in my permanent collection. In the past 6 months I've bought two other P15's but that I was tempted to keep, but they've since taken a boat trip to Holland where my business partner will find decent homes for them. The newest acquisition is a convertible. I've yet to have the documentation pulled from the archive, but the car is believed to have been sold in Massachusetts originally. I am very anxious to see which dealer and to be able to see if the building still exists. The original owner was from Lexington Massachusetts, as shown on one of the 30 or so registration cards that came in the glove box. He was a Doctor of Physics and worked at a small institution known as the Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Lincoln Labs. Some may recognize the name of this establishment as being home of a small project code named "Manhattan". While unconfirmed as of yet, there is an endowment left in the owners name and I have written to enquire if this learned individual was indeed connected to Atomic research going on at the time. This gentlemen kept the car for many years, and I suspect the last year of ownership was 1964 which is documented in a Midas Muffler lifetime warrantee also delivered with the car. The glove box was filled with maps of the eastern seaboard and a list of antique shops in each state. Researching his name I found that this man and his wife amassed one of the countries largest collections of Shaker furniture, a portion of which was sold after his death and another portion donated to the Smithsonian in DC. Further research has shown me that the man died at the ripe age of 94, leaving a sizeable chunk of money to create an endowment that reports assets over $1mil today. The second owner of the car is another local gentlemen who owned the car from 1964/5 up until 2001. This gentleman is still alive and well and living in Concord Massachusetts. He started a small business in the 1960's that has now grown into one of New England's largest Asphalt paving contractors and does a lot of private and highway paving work in the region. This man was the last to drive the car up until this past weekend. The car was last on the road (legally) in 1980. In the trunk of the car were many treasures, one of which I was told should always stay in the car. Under a small blanket were a dozen small flat stones about 2" in diameter. The second owner stated he and his wife collected these stones on their first date in Wells Beach Maine. Coincidently my family has owned a home in Wells Beach since 1919, which makes the tie to this car and the story a little sweeter. Amazingly enough the car has never been titled as they were not required or needed during the use of the car with its first two owners. I will likely title the car due to its value and estate reasons, and will become the first titled owner. The fella I bought the car from almost backed out of the deal, having owned the car since 2001, he had ideas of restoring it, but I am glad he left it alone. Among other items in the car were three spare hubcaps, a set of spare leaf spring shackles new in their NOS boxes, an original cloth bag for the bumper jack equipment, a wooden hand screwdriver which I believe may have been Plymouth OE, five brand new pairs of windshield wipers, a dozen spare vacuum radio tubes, and a couple boxes of spare fuses. A few sentences about the condition of the car as found, what I've done in the past week, and what I plan to do; General condition; - The car has not run since 1980 after the keys were lost, but the motor turned by hand so I knew there had to be some life in it. - The motor has a reman tag on it, a sticker on the firewall and yellow grease pencil writing on the firewall indicating it was replaced at 99,257 miles. The car now has 27,175 miles, so relatively new considering. Inspection thru the #6 cylinder port has proven the motor is a 230. (big smiles on my face when I learned that). - The body has two small issues to correct, but I likely won't touch them for several years as the patina is very appealing to me. One area on the front edge of the passenger door, and another paint separation issue surrounding the rear stop light on the trunk. The rest of the car is undercoated (rather thickly too) as well as under the hood. - Braking is terrible at the moment despite replacing the right front lower cylinder to make it yard drivable. Brake fluid is orange proving that what ever is in the tubes is long overdue for replacement. - The interior is trimmed rather smartly in - The top is original to the car and has a HUGE hole in it above the front seat. Mechanism goes up and down by hand easily. Vacuum cylinders are as of yet undiagnosed. - The car came with a factory supplied boot cover that is in decent shape. I will attempt to use this for the moment and in the future have a new one sewn up from its pattern. - The car also came with a rather unique and suspected non-oem option: Full Custom Tonneau Cockpit Cover. At first I said to myself what a shame, then I saw it on the car and fell in love with it. Getting her running; - Drained the 37 year old gas, boy does that stink... now to find a place to get rid of 10 gallons of it. - Replaced a very worn fan belt. - Swapped out the ignition switch for an OEM that I had in my stash. - Swapped out plugs, cables, coil. - Replaced both battery leads with heavy gauge OE style. - Added some MMO to each cylinder, placed the car in gear and rolled her back and forth a few times. - Installed a new 6V battery. - Disconnected the gas line to the carb and hand fed her some gasoline whereupon after several minutes of cranking she jumped to life. (and shot out an dust pan full of mouse crap, acorns and dirt from the muffler all over the garage floor.) She ran fine for an hour then died rather abruptly, whereupon several hours of playing whack-a-mole with intermittent doses of ATF has resulted in some less-sticky valves. Latest suggestion was to run some lead additive and to pull the gas tank and clean it. Plans to get her roadworthy; - Remove the gas tank, and thoroughly clean it. Looking for suggestions as to what might be best to use to clean the inside of the tank, noting that it has been wet with gas so residue is assumed to be fairly motile. - New brake cylinders, new brake lines, new MC, new brake switch, all four corners and in between. Curious as to whether or not I will need the miller brake tool (or reasonable facsimile) since I will be using the shoes/pads that are on the car as they are nearly in new condition. Any opinions here? - New top on order from Bill Hirsch to match the original factory colors; Black on tan, (my irish blood appreciates this a lot). Local trimmer has been selected and reports having done two 40's mopars in recent months. (they are on my hit list for names and addresses...) - Fluid changes - ALL of them, including oil, coolant, gear box, and rear end. During the winter months; - Interior betterments. Haven't decided if I want to rescue the interior or go new. I am partial to the patina, but if the cost would be too much to repair it may make sense to spend some dough on new correct color leather. The leather is in decent shape with no holes, but the cotton stitching has disintegrated on the front seat. - Passenger side vent wing window has a broken pivot point and the threaded post that attaches it to the doors A-pillar is sheared off. Both will need to be repaired. Glass will need to be removed from the frame before it can be corrected. Working on glass will be a first for me, and with such a rare part, I will have to work myself up to the challenge. - Overdrive swap. Later this year I will haul the sedan down to our house in North Carolina and park for a few years storage until we begin to full time in the winters down there. Before she goes down I will likely pull the OD and replace shelve it for installation in the convertible. And before I end this, a few notes of thanks for guidance in recent days; - Robin Weathersbee for his enthusiastic support and un-ending archives. - Greg G for giving me his phone number 7 or 8 years ago and allowing me to ask random questions in the middle of any given day or evening. - Young Ed is always there with his matter of fact - Bob Toft for sending me a dozen emails and a bunch of pictures of his car which convinced me to open the safe. I'll be a pest to all you for a while - bear with me. - lastly to my wife, to whom endured the "surprise look what I bought!" without sending a waffle iron flying in the air towards my head. And to her credit has instructed me to hurry up and get it done summer is here! AND said why would you consider selling Ruby?! AND doesn't understand why a 70 year old car is so special but allows me to spend every waking non-wage earning hour with it.
  2. 11 likes
    Hello comrades; I decided to write down this story, as may it be not known in US, but when production of Chrysler 6 ended? And what was the last car using it? You'd probably say, that in 70s and it was used in trucks. That's truth, but not all the truth. To understand it well, we have to go back to Soviet Union to early 40s. As You may know, in GAZ (Gorkovskij Avtomobilnyj Zavod- Car Factory in Gorki) at this time GAZ A and GAZ M1 were produced, first one being license of Ford A, second- 1934 Ford with Ford A engine. As it became outdated by early 40s, they decided to design new car, but well, after 22 June, 1941 they had more important problems, such as "how to make paint on tanks dry faster". As the situation on front get better, in 1943 idea of a new car came back. They copied front suspension from Opel Kapitan (GM), took some minor parts from Ford, copied Chrysler's engine, but changing all diameters from imperial to metrical system, so most parts, such as pistons and bushing are not interchangeable. All these parts were put in modern uni-body and that's how GAZ M20 Pobeda (Victory) was born. Car was shown to Stalin, he was quite satisfied, but, well... "... 6 cylinder? Passenger cars should be more economical, fuel is more needed for the army!" As arguing with uncle Jossif would probably end with government-sponsored 15 year vacation in luxury resort in Kolyma, with such attractions as a uranium mine or cutting down forest, engineers decided to cut engine and change it into 4 cylinder one. That's how GAZ M-20 engine emerged. Production of GAZ M-20 started in 1945. Of course, 6 was also produced, but it was used in trucks (GAZ 51), army vehicles and special Pobiedas, made exclusively for KGB. In late 40s/early 50s, license for Pobeda was given as a Stalin's present for Poland. Production started in 1951 in FSO in Warsaw (Fabryka Samochodów Osobowych, Factory of Passenger Cars- so romantic name!). Car was named "FSO M20 Warszawa" Production of Pobeda ended in 1958, of Warszawa- in 1973. Engine was also used in GAZ 69, something in kind of Soviet Jeep. But... In late 50s, in FSC (Fabryka Samochodów Ciężarowych, Factory of Trucks) in Lublin and ZSD (Zakład Samochodów Dostawczych; Facility of Delivery Cars) in Nysa, Poland, using all mechanics of M20 Warszawa two delivery cars were built. Żuk (Beetle) and Nysa But, that's not the end of a story... In middle 60s FSO found out, that 45 HP flathead 4 with fuel consumption around 14 L/100 km is not a modern powertrain. Money were on shortage, so instead of developing new engine, old flathead was re-designed, and became... OHV. "Down" of the engine, pistons, crankshaft, oiling system etc. was untouched, "Top" was new. And... S-21 engine emerged. Also, a 40s fastback wasn't the most modern body style in early 60s(well... they could wait 5 years, it would be fashionable again) and the funds was as always, on shortage, the biggest change in Warszawa production run occured- it became a sedan, called 223 (with S-21 engine) and 224 (with flathead) Production of that car without any major changes ended in 1973. But, production of deliveries not. Nysa got new body in late 60s, Żuk got face-lifting in early 70s. After end of production of Warszawa, Żuk and Nysa started using OHV. Production of Nysa ended in 1994, of Żuk- in 1997, but in 1993 it (FINALLY!) got diesel, and the story of Chrysler flathead 6, which became OHV 4, ended. Joke. In 1958, in Only True Korea GAZ 51 was copied... and it's still in production, with good old Flathead 6. And it was face-lifted recently! (in 2008... 10 years ago... let's say that it was recently) So, always when You see old Mopar flathead 6, remember about his 4-cylinder little brother in Poland which carries vegetables to the market or about big brother in North Korea, which caries... probably army. Is it anything else in North Korea? PS. You'll probably found out, that I'm not an English-speaker, so it would be great if someone correct or re-write this article. PS2: If You ever wondered, what was the first SUV, it's not Jeep Wagoneer. It's GAZ M-72.
  3. 11 likes
    I found a NOS d24 clock on e-bay but it was priced over $500 dollars! I decided to remove the clock and install a quartz movement which cost less than ten dollars. A slight modification with a cut off to make room for the Quartz movement and put the clock back in the car. The double A battery should last a year or more and the clock is accurate with in a few seconds a year.
  4. 10 likes
    I got vinyl lettering for Dolly's sign.. When I was in High School I had a wood headboard with the same sign.
  5. 10 likes
    I have several classics and am a member of forums for each of them. In some cases more than one. I must say by far this site is the best. It has the typical curmudgeons but even those are nowhere as bad as some of the other sites I use. My goal when visiting a site is to obtain information that will help me get/keep my vehicals going while when I can, help others do the same. As one of those Chrysler people who have crashed this site, I am thankful that most here don't mind and are willing to assist because I have yet to find an exclusive site to my old Windsor that is as good as this one and that has the volume of activity. As an example, I also have a '73 D100. There are a few sites that have sections for theses trucks but none that I can ask a question on in the middle of a job and get multiple answers in just a day. This is is a public site, be like a duck and let things roll of your back and be glad that there is a place you can turn to for help with 60+ year old cars and trucks. Without it many of the great cars I see photos of on here would be nothing but rusting hulks.
  6. 10 likes
    I'm going to be about 600 miles from my truck for the next week, so I won't be able to participate on the 'IWOYTD' this year. However I did do something good on Monday. I drove my blue 52 Desoto truck about 60 miles south to visit the original owner (Ernest) for his 100th birthday. He & I share the same birthday, but I'm 50 years younger! He was a little tired on the day so he didn't get to go for a ride around the block this time. He's still 'as sharp as a tack' in the mind, but his body is wearing out. He was my inspiration to keep the restoration of the 'Ernie' truck as original as possible. We did manage to snap a few cool pictures at an old church on the way home. Hope the attached photo inspires others in their MOPAR activities...
  7. 9 likes
    My baby. This is Fiddy. I had a 2005 Harley FatBoy, her name was Fatty.
  8. 9 likes
    Making a old school looking fuel pressue gauge mount bracket for my 52 dodge PU...... nbeed to paint it and get it mounted next week....
  9. 9 likes
    Forgot the final pictures of the install....many thanks to my better half for the assist....lol 48D
  10. 9 likes
    Steve and I ran our Plymouths at The Vintage Nationals at Santa Pod (UK) today. It was great fun. Steve's coupe ran very strongly and took the honors with a best ET of 20.6 secs at 65 mph. My convertible ran 20.82 at 64.61mph. I'm pleased with that... until the next time! If you're on facebook here's a video of one of our heads up races... https://www.facebook.com/christopher.reynolds.5203/videos/10154763507078795/ If the video link doesn't work for you, here's a still...
  11. 8 likes
    crap, I'm out!!!! I thought it was "work IN your truck day"!
  12. 8 likes
    Wow, what a day in Clements!!! My wife is an inspiration, she is never to proud to try something new. Today on "INTERNATIONL WORK ON YOUR TRUCK DAY", she jumped in and helped me hang the bumper on "THE BRICK". Damn, what a woman! Charged the 1949 COE's battery steering wheel installed on B1BQ (finally) Rear bumper on the The Brick aka Wedding Truck 48 "lucky" D
  13. 7 likes
    I still really enjoy the forum. I go to the car, truck, and OT forums just about every day. I still post a fair amount. I don't care what anyone thinks of me or my posts. If positive that is nice. If negative so be it. Like water off a duck. Can't let other people affect what you think, post, the questions you ask, or how you work on your car. I've had run-ins with members, usually handled through PM's, that I get on with very well now. I have received a lot of help from this forum and its members and hopefully helped a few others myself. This is a wonderful forum so let's keep it that way!!
  14. 7 likes
    Thanks for all the suggestions fellas Today a friend of mine helped me pull the car out of storage. We towed it behind his truck to his shop (only about 3 blocks), then had to winch it up his driveway (no way to tow the car up there and get anywhere near the garage). He has a nice floor winch he installed which was to be used for exactly what we used it for today: moving cars that don't run. Tomorrow morning Dennis will deliver the engine to the shop and we will get cracking on it. Here's a pic of the car in my friend's shop again. Yeah!! (That's my 7 year old son; he loves this stuff too)
  15. 7 likes
    Wow, it has been a while since I posted on this thread!! I have another experience to share about my truck, and it's a lesson learned! Since I completed the truck, I have noticed a bad engine vibration around 1,700 RPM. It would rattle your brains out at that RMP. The hood would shake bad, every panel that could make a noise would, and the brake and clutch pedals would shake. I always tried to avoid running it around there by staying above or below it. I haven't been driving the truck as much as I'd like due to fear of damage to the engine. Over the winter I decided I was going to figure this out! I already looked into it before, and eliminated it to the engine. I pulled the trans out and ran it, and then the clutch and still had the shake. On Monday I started calling around and found an engine shop about an hour from me who could balance the flywheel and clutch. I talked to him a while about the vibration, and he told me to bring the flywheel and clutch down to him. He told me he could do it in roughly an hour, and I could even do it during later in the evening. I left work on Tuesday, picked up my wife and we got to his shop around 6:50 pm. I dropped off the parts, and my wife and I went out for dinner. When we got back, he came out and told me the status of my parts. He told me a fairly notable vibration can be felt with 30 grams of unbalance, and my flywheel was running over 50 grams out. Mine also was running 25 thousandths out causing a wobble. He said it looked like it was dropped at one point and it was one of the worst ones he has done. He took a lot of material off to get it running true, and he was able to get it within a gram (which is a race engine spec). Then he threw the pressure plate on with it, and it was running 30 grams out of balance as well. To boot, the weight was nearly at the same position as the flywheel with how I took it off based on my punch marks, so I had a total of 80 plus grams of unbalance. He worked on it until 9:15pm while we waited. I couldn't believe how helpful, flexible, and reasonable he was. I walk out spending $128 and only had to make the drive once. Last night I put it back together, and it is vibration free. The truck is by far the smoothest running flathead we have. I'm sure you could stand a nickel on edge on the head at any RPM. So if any of you are doing a clutch job, major engine work, or if you have an engine vibration. Don't overlook the flywheel and clutch!
  16. 6 likes
    so we did some horse trading yesterday....Ed got his coveted tailgate off my wall (sad to see it go) and I got a door from my hometown.
  17. 6 likes
    merging a number of hard drives came across this pic of the 41 Dodge I built some time back....375 HP 440 cu in, 727 (I first built with an A833 got tired of shifting) 4WD 3.73 ratio
  18. 6 likes
    You have to remember the old old timers who really know these cars are naturally cranky and should be given some leeway...
  19. 6 likes
    This is a common problem on many public internet forums. It is not limited to auto related sites either. There seems to be an ebb and flow to this phenomenon and it is worthwhile to understand. As a site grows it seems to develop different "flavors" of participants. They include the "frequent flyers" the vocal (high post counts) and exclusively readers as well. There are members who read or post for entertainment and those who want to share info, stories and or resolve a specific issue. There are members who really enjoy the site but never post (nothing wrong with that either). Possibly more people read then ever post on the site. What's troubling is the % of members who read or visit and rarely post. Nothing wrong with it BUT they are the silent majority (not a political reference). As a result the tone and tenor of the high participant vocal members set the tone for the whole forum. By nature the quiet majority are rarely heard and that skews the optics about the "personality" of the site. I really think that there is room for everyone. Some of the "vocal" posters are very knowledgeable and I would miss their "wisdom". I sincerely encourage a community that is welcoming to all members as the 1930's 1940's 1950's MoPaR interest could easily die off due to demographics. We need to encourage younger members and make it a welcoming site for all. Restorers and hot rodders have generally tolerated each other on this site much better then elsewhere. The growth of this site and the relatively dwindling participation in the Plymouth Owners Club is a good example. There is room for everyone, I hope it can remain inclusive. The more the moderators need to ref the site the more restrictive the site might become. That would be a loss.
  20. 6 likes
    Took FEF out for my car/truck club's "Mystery Run". Put about 100 miles on him. Oddly stalled out 2 times at an intersection and the starter would not turn over. Waited embarrassed as all heck and after 2 minutes or so a weak turn over got him running again. Stopping and turning him off the starter fires off just fine...wth?
  21. 6 likes
    Unfortnately 4 or 5 individuals currently are generating 90-95% of the reported content to the mods. I usually just let them cool down for a day or two but this group keeps going back to old bad habits. I'm pretty patient but if this behavior continues the entire group will get the permanent boot, including accounts deleted and their ip addresses blocked from accessing the site. It takes two to tango ( or in this case 4-5) and we are about at the end of the dance. You know who you are and take this as your last and only warning.
  22. 6 likes
    Tack strip and windlace done on one side the rest is in for show. And it only took four years and a month of retirement.
  23. 6 likes
    Several years ago a forum member gave me this military heavy duty flaring tool. It worked great. Another forum member wanted to borrow it so I sent it to him. He used it and when done he asked me if he could buy it. I told him that I really did not want to part with it but as I was between jobs I could use the money. A week later he sent me an airline ticket and I was in his office interviewing for a job. Best job and best boss I ever had in my life. Carried my up to retirement.
  24. 6 likes
    Now that I am retired,I honestly can't figure out how I ever found the time to go to work.
  25. 6 likes
    I had a issue of surging in my 265 52 dodge PU recently. Checked the distributor and VA... OK. Checked fuel pressure...4.6 lbs as always..OK Pulled the carb top... checked the carb # E7T1 ....correct for this engine setup. I bought this carb NOS when I installed the 265. Main and Step-up jets correct #'s and clean...accelerator pump jet strong.... Hmmmmm....then I saw a little steel ball in the bottom corner of the fuel bowl ! It had somehow come undone from it's swaged hole up on the main air bleed circuit! It's supposed to be permanently pressed into the carb bowl body to seal against air or fuel leaks. I carefully re-installed the steel ball and rolled the carb bowl metal over it the slightest and now all is good again...NO surging. I have never seen this happen! easy fix though. This might be of help to someone else.
  26. 6 likes
    Here's a good shot of Robin and myself I ran best of 20.6 @ 65 mph, hows that for a P15 coupe
  27. 5 likes
    Bummer, I refuse to join the Facebook cult
  28. 5 likes
    I bet I can guess the second odor after you found out what you did....
  29. 5 likes
    Been awhile since I have posted but thought I would share the finished product. I built this with the thought of a guy in the 60's building it in the garage. The only thing I did not do to this is paint it. (at the request of my wife). stock under the hood, static dropped (no bags), the only out of period part would be the 5-spd conversion I did.
  30. 5 likes
    Good luck to you! If it were me,my first move would be to drop it off at an upholstery shop and let the pros do it. I don't even have to try it to know it would be a mistake for me to even get started on putting in a headliner. I have trouble putting on bumperstickers without getting them wrinkled. It's important in life to know your shortcomings.
  31. 5 likes
    three pictures of my B2C, 1952, 1965, and 1974. My dad and grandfather are in the 65 one, my grandfather in the 52 photo. I was driving her in 74 in High School.. Two photos of our old 49. My brother has it now. The photo with the hay on the truck was about 1970. My brother and me on the back hauling hay from the field. The other is of Will and Joe Warlie, they worked form my grandfather. Will was killed in Korea (marine) in 1950, so the photo was between 49 and 50 when the truck was nearly new.
  32. 5 likes
    When it comes to the information on the internet, I have learned to take it all with a grain of salt. Basic information can be erroneous, mix in some opinions and then comes the conflicts. I have recently dealt with Echo, Stihl, Subaru, John Deere and New Holland parts guys working on several pieces of not-new equipment and confusion led to exasperation with them because what I needed did not match their catalogs...I had to rely on my diplomacy skills to keep them motivated to help me out because they wanted to throw their hands up and walk away, and eventually we determined that in each case there were errors in their online catalogs that we were able to correct on our end to get the right parts to get this equipment back in the field. These parts guys are just like most mechanics in that they are helpful up to a point, then their less-than-outgoing personalities begin to re-emerge and they start to shut down in some form of frustration. They aren't bad ppl, but most guys fall into this category in that continued questioning is an implied second-guessing of abilities that can be insulting to one's machismo. Some things just are not up for debate, it either works or does not work...that sort of thing. One of the most important things I have learned from using the internets is that arguing online is a complete waste of time: ppl are bull-headed and will not change their minds, no matter how well-crafted the attempted persuasion or the presentation of facts. So whenever I spot someone using inflammatory or argumentative language, I spend my time doing something else, but responding to the bait ain't gonna be it
  33. 5 likes
    Got this photo of a factory 230 on the Allpar site.
  34. 5 likes
    So we all agree to never start an answering post " This is how I did it , it is the only way it can be done, and if you don't or can't do it MY way you must be ignorant!". I do not believe in the fifteen or so years I have asked and answered questions here, that I have ever seen that sentiment expressed. I have seen several instances of folks interpreting replies that way. But come on guys it is a hobby board. It is an international forum with folks sourcing supplies from varied sources, and various points of view. I am waiting for some one announcing that the transmission from the TATA mini bus in India is a bolt for bolt replacement and there are so many available that they are fifty bucks with free shipping, or that the Fish carburetor design has been rediscovered, and now that the big three have no more interest in carburetors the will begin to be manufactured and we can all enjoy increased power and unprecedented smoothness, all at a minimum of fifty miles to the gallon. So no Torrey's v workers, Liberal v conservative, moderates v zealots polarization is needed. Its pieces and parts and procedures and as been said many times before your car, your time and money, knock yourself out. Don't like an answer, say thanks, but no thanks and move on.
  35. 5 likes
    My 218 bored .040,edgy head polished,offy intake polished , two carters carb, Langdon air cleaners,otb oil filter,coil cover,filler tube and cap,dip stick tube, chrome 6 volt alternator , Langdon manifold exhaust manifolds, dual optima s battery ,lokar carb linkage
  36. 5 likes
    Well, if you're asking me...(how do you make words with italic script?) why? I would say it's peoples egos. Not knowing when to or wanting to stop/get the last word in. Some of it can be attributed to the medium, the typed word. There is no intonation, no facial cues or any other form of non verbal communication. (nod nod wink wink for example) I thought there were some valid points being brought up in the thread in question, others didn't see it that way. Some want to battle it out while others will just take their marbles and go home. Why can't we simply exchange information and ask questions without fear of derogatory rebuttal, real or imagined? This is the internet, I try to take it as it comes. If someone tells me to 'get a life', for example, I could just, well, the possibilities are endless. I mostly choose to just let it slide and press on regardless. I've seen so many posts and replies that folks have obviously misunderstood or not entirely read all the posts and offer 'off the mark' comments. Why get all bent out of shape about it? As much as I like this site and all the invaluable information here and held by so many of the members, I have a lot more important and real life issues to deal with that cause real angst than to worry about some of this stuff. Me? I like to make wise cracks and try to leave people laughing. I'm not always successful but I keep trying. And some folks don't get it and never will. Oh well. I'm still looking for the perfect joke. Is this what you mean by a typical response?
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    Since I'm finishing up balancing and polishing a set of 1554530 connecting rods for a T-245 230 engine, I can confirm (1) that there is a lot a weight variation among these rods, even ones that are clearly from the same forging dies, and (2) that those ribs on the bottom of the big end cap are for strength, and are not balancing pads, to be removed as needed. I started with about fifteen rods to choose from, and the variance from lightest to heaviest was 44 grams, on a rod design that averaged about 805 grams. Balancing rods involves matching them as closely as possible (my maximum tolerance is one gram, with 0.5 gram being the target) across the total weight, and the weights, measured using a connecting rod balancing fixture, of the big and small ends. Balancing only the small end (either by removing material from the small end or the piston) takes care of the reciprocating mass, but does not balance the rotating mass, i.e. the big end. And unbalanced rotating forces reduce smoothness, which reduces bearing and component life. Even a small amount of imbalance can results in pounds of force, which increase exponentially as RPMs increase. So yes, a slow turning engine such as our flatheads, with slower piston speeds, do not generate as much stress due to imbalance as a short stroke, high-revving engine, but they do benefit from balancing. When I started my balancing and polishing project, I decided (1) not to remove any material from the big end cap ribs, (2) to remove little, if any, material from the area where the beam spreads out to meet the crankshaft bearing insert (the area where the rod is most likely to fail), and (3) to eliminate as much as possible rough edges and sharp corners, which are stress risers. Looking at the rods, I was amazed at how crude they are in some respects: the area around the bolt bosses in particular is very poorly finished, with evidence of metal surface tearing where the bosses were broached (check the side flats where the odd/even cylinder number is stamped), and sharp corners. And when I measured the rod caps by themselves (as a guide to where I needed to remove weight on the big end), I found an uncomfortably high amount of variation there, too: over 14 grams from lightest to heaviest. Removing the forging flash from and then polishing the sides of the beams, smoothing the sharp corners around the bolt bosses, and carefully removing material from the top of the small end as needed brought the average rod weight down to around 770 grams, with a total variance of not more then 0.5 gram. The small ends balanced out to about the same tolerances, but I was only able to get the big ends to within about 0.8 gram variance. But balanced and polished, these rods are likely stronger than stock, and smoother with less stress on the bearings and crankshaft.
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    Here are the Autolite part numbers for your distributor Autolite IAT-4011 cap Iat-1033 , rotor IAU-1016A , contact set IGW-3028BS , condenser IAT-3076RA . If you need any other part numbers for this distributor just let me know . P.S. , I usually buy my Autolite parts on ebay NOS .
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    Why would anyone not want you to update? Just because other people have also done it doesn't mean every installation was identical,and someone seeing how you did it might get a fresh viewpoint on how to do it. We all work off the backs of each other. You made your discovery on your own,so celebrate it. Someone else making the same discovery takes nothing away from your own. If anything it reinforces what a good idea it was because others chose to take a very similar approach. Besides,if you hadn't done this independently and posted about it,people like me would have never been exposed to the idea. You did good. Own it.
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    This is it Man.....MAY 6TH 2017 - International Work On Your Truck Day #6!!!! Get your wrenches out ....the good weather is coming.....time to make it roll without the nieghbors pushin it! Power to the toolbox! Its a day we all make all stand together as one, and show everyone, that: "We love our old Trucks!!!!!!!!" The Five Rules: 1. Work on your truck....looking at it counts, writing "wash me' on it counts, washing, dusting it, kicking the rubber ALL counts! a. Ordering parts count! b. Waiting by the mailbox for your part counts. 2. Report what you did....and be honest, cuz its all good. 3. Post a picture of what you did....again, fresh finger prints count. 4. Explain what inspires you the most about your truck, how you got it....it was your dad's, it was your uncle's, brother's, you found it, Brent stole it for you, Mark molded one piece at a time for you, Merle made you build one, you won it in a badminton game with Tim Adams and Don Coatney, you read ED's thread and got super inspired.......found it in a barn or whatever...lol. 5. Try to share your days experience and pictures as soon as you can.....!!! Good luck everyone!!!!! Here comes Saturday!!! Tim aka 48Dodger
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    An old wife's tale that people get grumpier as they age. We just have had our fill of BS and stupidity and no longer care to engage the filter between our brain and our mouth. lol
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    Worked on mine to finally get that 150 mile test run in. Passed.
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    Got the car on the road at last. Had a run around local at the weekend, shakedown run. Drives nice, brakes are , I would say adequate. Needs the carb tinkering with or the timing. We run a different octane fuel over here. Will meddle around with the car as I go along,although there isn't that much to do to be honest. Overall I'm happy with the old Mopar. Had years of fast big block B bods to rort around in, nice to be pottering around for a change. .........pipe and slippers next!!
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    You can set your ignition timing to real world conditions with a vacuum gauge. Attach the gauge to the intake manifold wind screen wiper port works nicely if you have vacuum wipers. Withe the car at operating temp at idle, rotate the distributor to achieve the highest steady vacuum reading. Re adjust the idle speed as necessary to retail proper idle speed. Now snug the distributor slightly and go for a ride. Listen carefully for any engine knock under load, brisk acceleration at speed, under load as in climbing a grade. If there is spark knock, regards the timing in small increments till it disappears. When it is no longer present under load tighten down the distributor. You have now road timed your enginefor actual driving conditions and fuel quality.
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    If you don't have a tool or shaft, put the clutch cover bolts in finger tight so the disc can slide around. Slip the tyranny in and then tighten the clutch cover bolts last.
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    Never use modern day new condensers in a Mopar flathead.... seen 5 fail with in a few days.... worst were the NAPA Echlin brand. Re-use your old working one. Hopefully you have one
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    Did someone say 'chicken coupe'?