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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/13/2018 in all areas

  1. 9 points
    I have a lost dog for the moment.....didn't have a dish handy....or did I ? 48D
  2. 8 points
    I've been known to scribble on some paper. This selection of subjects are still vehicle related though.
  3. 7 points
    I dig up volunteer mimosa, pecan and burr oak trees around the place, pot them for 3 years, then plant in strategic locations for myself or my neighbors, also gift them to friends and neighbors with planting and care support...so I reckon there's almost 200 more trees around TX than there was 15 years ago thanks to my green thumb...the trees are nice to look at, but around these parts, they really become valuable when they begin to produce shade
  4. 6 points
    Found this 1950 Plymouth Special Deluxe on Kijiji a few weeks ago a few hours from me, and for 400 bucks I couldn't say no. Complete car with floor rust but solid other than that. Interior has mildew but going to try and tidy it up. Original paint will buff up. Cleaned off the massive amount of algae for now. Last insured 10 years ago.
  5. 5 points

    Poor chicken...

  6. 5 points

    Droopy door handle

    Radarsonwheels, my PT had a hanging door handle on the driver side like yours. I really didn`t like that hanging thing, so I put it on to the to do list for the winter. But just some weeks ago the handle completely gave in and was hanging vertically down. I expected a broken spring. I pulled out the door latch assembly saw no obvious damage. After dismantling the latch assembly and figure out how these parts work together it was clear the reason was wear. Enclosed some pictures, which may help to understand and fix the latch in case yours has got the same problem: Blue arrows shows the edge which was worn. The green line indicates where the edge should be. I fixed this by welding material to the latch and grind it to correct length. Note: It helps a lot to draw the outlines to a board before welding (picture 4). So it is easier to grind the edge to the proper length. Picture 5 shows the worn edge (red line) which led to a gap to the rotating piece (green line) and thus to the wobbly/hanging handle Picture 6 displays the fixed edge. No gap - no wobble, no hanging handle 😊
  7. 5 points

    Oil Pan Installation

    I worked as a field service diesel mechanic a long time ago. For ease of future service, my rule of thumb was to never use any type of sealant on the engine side of anything. It is much easier to scrape the old gasket off the part (sitting on the back of my truck) than the engine while it is still in the vehicle. The other reason I do it that way - if you look at the most stable surface, it should be the machined surface on the engine block. Unless it has defects, it most likely won’t be the cause of any leaks. The oil pan on the other hand will flex and bend if/when the bolts are over tightened - that would be the surface causing the leaks. Every Engine has specific places where leaks are more of a potential - generally where joints are created in the gasket material. Those are the only places where I would use a small amount of silicone - just my opinion of course.
  8. 4 points

    The rarest part ever?

    Hi, I am sort of a new member. I was a member a few years ago and with moving and new email addresses, I was unable to log in with old account. I have a 1950 FN1 1/2 ton Fargo pickup restored to original. Except for radial tires and a Pertronix ignition. As for rare parts. I have a rear window defroster that came with my truck. It attaches with suction cups to the rear window.
  9. 4 points

    Proper torque

  10. 4 points
    I'm a Civil War artillery reenactor. I used to portray do cavalry until I broke my back. No more riding horses. You can't see me very well in the second picture thru the muzzle flash, just my butternut trousers and checkered shirt. Im the one in the checkered shirt firing the mountain howitzer. In case anyone is wondering ,yes there was a Civil War battle that happened in Arizona or what was back then known as the New Mexico Territory . The Battle of Picacho Pass. It was the western most battle of the Civil war and it happened about midway between Tucson and Phoenix a little east of what is now I -10 . PS, yes its hot wearing a pair of wool trousers and dark blue wool sack coat in the summer
  11. 4 points

    Repairing pilothouse fenders

    On FEF, the area was cut out and a new reinforcement plate added back in (yes that back plate is there on purpose). Then some carriage bolts were turned down and used in place of the rivets. Yes, you would have trapped rust hiding in there. I think the rivets are part of the DODGE look and really need to be put back...but that's me...
  12. 4 points
    The real story for my wife and kids, is they know I miss my favorite buddy Red. Lost him back in 2012....some of you might remember him from a BBQ or two.... He was definitely this man's best friend. It was nice to be reminded of him.
  13. 4 points
    If change is hard to deal with why don’t everyone just give it to a good nonprofit organization like your local Lions Club or The Salvation Army. No more stress and you did something good.
  14. 4 points
    Seeing Mack the Fingers post reminds me of a very fond memory of my Mom Dad and I from when I was about 10. We lived in Tucson and we took a little day trip into the desert not far from where I live now to look for "Desert Roses" . Dad brought come Chef Boyardee spaghetti with us to eat for lunch. Well he forgot to bring something to heat it on . So he too the hubcap off our car it was a Vega so no loss there and built a first under it . Then he set the opened can on top of it and let it heat up. After a few minutes I look at the can and the heat had made the contents of the can rise up in a tall spaghetti column like a push pop almost to the point of collapsing onto the hubcap and ground. I brought it to my Dads attention and he hurriedly poked a the wedge shaped end of the still new/ unused tire iron lug wrench into it to shove it back into the can all the time laughing . Dad was a hoot. One night when Mom was at my Aunts house next door Dad decided to make his own corn nuts. He drained and salted a can of hominys and put them on a flat cookie sheet type thing and put them into the toaster oven to roast and get crunchy. Long story short.... after a while all of the sudden they started to explode like firecrackers just as Mom walked in the front door. Dad wasnt allowed to use the kitchen for a while after that. I sure do miss them both. John
  15. 4 points
  16. 4 points
    Merle Coggins

    Oil Pan Installation

    I would use a little Ultra Black silicone sealant in the corners, where all the gasket pieces meet. Otherwise I don’t like silicone gasket sealant, especially with cork gaskets. I like to use a tacky type of gasket stuff, like Permetex’s #9 Tack and Seal on one side to hold it from moving around. Then s light coat of grease on the side against the block. Don’t over torque the bolts. Just snug them up, and go back after a while and recheck them.
  17. 4 points
    I have done enough on-line deals that I can say that statistically, 1% of the population are crackpots that will complain because they wanted something for free and that it took too long for it to be delivered and that the quality was not as advertised in the first place. Ebay took steps to give vendors some recourse against crackpots when they modified their rating system to allow for rebuttal against negative ratings, which was kinda helpful to identify crackpot sellers and buyers alike. On the other hand, I have heard stories about how some vendors have "volunteers" who pad ratings on Amazon and Yelp, witnessing odd spikes in positive feedback immediately after negative feedback is posted. So when somebody tries to tell me about a vendor's on-line rating, I argue that those results may be skewed by bias on both sides by crackpots who are trying to game the system. I have found a downside of leaving realistic reviews is that I have been contacted by other customers through vendors' websites, and half of these contacts are by crackpots who cannot be bothered to do their own basic research (does this u-joint have grease in it?) or have no idea what they are doing but want their electronic device to be a magic genie of answers (will this pressure manifold work on my ancient air compressor that I don't even know what its model number is?). So it boils down to good customer relations, where the customer also has the responsibility to deal with any complaints promptly and realistically.
  18. 4 points
    Today was front bumper day. My buddy came over and helped wrangle the doghouse on and off a few times. We jacked up the front and removed the wheels, measured and sanded the rad support crossmember and ‘54 frame stubs, put on the tins, cribbed up the bumper, and tacked a couple pieces of round stock in place. Then we pulled the tins off and connected the 54 frame stubs to the crossmember with 3/16” plate. Then we got excited and forgot to paint all the new stuff and put the sheetmetal back on again. I had never had the fenders in place since I swapped out the 1989 v6 springs for the moog coils and I was really crossing my fingers that it would not still be too low to turn the tires. Thankfully the spring swap worked out beautifully. The tires look nicely framed by the wheel arches but still have plenty of room to haul passengers, hit bumps, and turn into driveways. Another nice surprise was that the water pump pulley clears my electric fan with just enough room. Never had the nose on with the rad installed before. If I was running rubber motor mounts I would have to really watch out for trouble as they broke in but I think the polys will limit my motor travel pretty well. So here’s pics at full drop which looks pretty cool but rides on the rear bumpstops, and also around where I think I might want a regular cruising height, with the bags inflated but not too firm yet.
  19. 3 points
    So I am piggy backing on the setup from 1949 B-1-C and used the same parts for my 1953 B-4-C. The floor had be cut previously but at least the metal was still left so a simple bend and weld job got the hole back to around the correct shape. A little bit of foam and eventually some floor matting should help cut down on the dust coming from below. Also got a vented gas cap from NAPA with a nice warning message to remove slowly fuel spray may cause injury. 😮 Thanks for the idea 1949 B-1-C! Tom
  20. 3 points


    I had the slow starter on my '48, struggled with it for years...eventually I put a torque wrench on the pulley crankshaft nut to turn it and found that it required over 100 ft-lbs...by comparison, my '49 that ran great required only 40 ft-lbs...considering a problem that I saw when I put the engine together during my ignorant youth, I think I have a spun connecting rod bearing that is binding the crankshaft...so that's on the to-do list
  21. 3 points
    I play guitar some and repair and build tube guitar amps occasionally, mostly in the winter months. Mostly I like rebuilding motorcycles but that's more obsession than hobby. So nope, no hobbies.
  22. 3 points

    front crankshaft bolt size

    I guess I misunderstood you. I thought you were just trying to remove the pulley/balancer nut,not unstick the engine. NOT being a fan of applying brute force to long levers when freeing up stuck mechanical parts,I prefer to take the lazy method and let my air compressor and penetrating lube do the work for me. 1:Remove the side plates so you can back off on the tappets and use a plastic hammer to tap the valves shut. 2 Replace the head and torque it down. No need for a new head gasket unless you tore the old one. 3: Buy a "valve hold open device" from your local tool store. If you are really cheap and have time to waste,you can make one from a old spark plug by breaking out the proceline (sp?) on a old one and then tapping the base to accept an air line connector. 4: Pour all the cylinders full of penetrating oil of some sort. I have used a 50/50 mixture of brake fluid and ATF with pretty good success. 5: Since there is no real need to force anything,let it sit overnight so what will penetrate on it's own will do so. 6: Hook a air hose and at least 100 psi of air to the hold open device screwed into your head,and let the air pressure and penetrate do it's work. 7: Remove the oil fill cap. 8: Sit near it and read a book,listen to music,pick your nose,etc,etc,etc until you hear "glub,glub,glub" noises coming out of the oil fill tube. 9: Remove hold open device and screw it into the next cylinder and repeat until they are all done. 10: Being the lazy sort,I just "bump" the starter and let it finish breaking the stuck engine loose,but you can use a breaker bar and socket if you want. 11: Drain the base pan and fill it with new non-detergent oil. 12: Spin it over with the starter using short spins of 5 seconds or so with a few seconds to cool down. Repeat until oil pressure shows on your dash gauge,and then spin it over some more for good luck and proper lube everywhere. 13: Adjust your valves. 14: Put new plugs in it and start it up after putting it back in the chassis or chaining/strapping it down somehow so it can't chase you around the garage when it starts.
  23. 3 points


    My 48 B1B had similar problems, just very slow cranking. I’d checked everything, including the guts of the starter. Cleaned the armature, brushes bearings and all. Cleaned connections. One day I got particularly fed up and just pulled the starter off another truck I had and presto - all was good, cranked very fast. might save yourself a lot of headaches if you just buy, borrow or steal another starter.
  24. 3 points

    Wood for bed floor oak or pine

    I used trex like composite product in mine. An aged silver/grey called something like beachouse cottage or some such. You can get it in thicknesses like 5/8, 3/4, etc. Got it at lowes. Perfect, no stain, machines like wood, wears like iron.
  25. 3 points

    Oil Pans Types

    My 51 Plymouth has baffles, my 53 Savoy did not.... my 52 Dodge had baffles. I have not seen baffles in the B series 1/2 thru 1 tons. Here is a factory picture out of the 1949-52 Dodge shop manual showing a baffled oil pan.


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