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  2. IN the UK...hard to say...there was a site in Turkey selling surplus......as for the valve seats, unless yours are specifically damaged there is no need to replace them as they are hardened from the factory. Parts sad to say will probably entail an over seas order, maybe like minded enthusiasts could join you and make a group order defraying cost. Folks here refer to Terrills Machine Shop and VPW for many parts....e-bay USA is also a good source.....I face similar issues with my 15 English cars and getting parts....many are not very well followed in the USA.... look to the resources or links tab top of this page.....
  3. What's the matter with the existing front end? Guys on this forum fix the existing front ends, with good results.
  4. For safety's sake, you should have a cutoff switch to shut off the electric fuel pump if the engine is not running. I used an oil pressure switch. I also had a momentary contact switch to power the pump for priming the carb.
  5. Hello I’m from the UK I have a 218 where is the best place to get 40 over piston rings and 30 over big end shells? Also where can I get harden valve seats plus valves? Thanks
  6. Today
  7. this is your second thread on the 10" clutch upgrade...as to if or if not right depended on intended use of the vehicle..usually the severe service application like taxi use would dictate the use of the 10" over the 9 1/4...whoever you get your plate, disc and T/0 brg. from would have the applicable numbers by asking.
  8. i have 51 plymouth with a 9 1/4" borg and beck pressure plate only number i found on it is 1577 it looks like a old rebuilt . what i need to find out is if this is the right pressure plate ,the car had a blown motor in when bought the car so i don't know if it worked or not .anyone known if this the right for the old plymouth, thank you
  9. a car is easily bought, modified and built to suit your needs and pleasure, not so with women...while the aspect of a new bride may be enticing to some....the cost of disposal of the reigning wife is not cost effective.
  10. Very invasive process.....the front frame rails needed to use this suspension member is quite involved themselves in time and cost even before you start the process of transferring the Cr.Vic setup. Most any other front clip will also be quite involved as well. There are a other clips available to do the job but will require changing the frame to receive the clip and then the front clip itself will require extensive work to put the original radiator frame and bumper back on the car. remember it is the front rad frame that secures the panels as a unit and then position them in a semi floating (adjustable) position back to the frame. To my knowledge there is no bolt and go or slice and dice kit out there. You will be doing lots of cutting, fabrication and welding. Also keep in mind that this process is a venture of no return once started so failure will not be an option. Having a wrecking yard at your disposal is great for parts access and with that in mind, the original set up can be brought up to speed easier with less cost, little invasion and never really take the car off the road using a R&P kit, shock relocation and disc brakes upgrades.
  11. Thank you for the replies. Probably wont be my last post haha.
  12. 1950 Dodge pilot pickup 5 window On Ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/1950-Dodge-Other-Pickups/143333421618?
  13. How's the chrome on that "harmonica grille"? Good news if it's not very pitted, but it's die cast so probably is.
  14. I haven't liked the way the cherry bomb mufflers sound on the coupe since I got it running. Too loud and lots of brap brap brap when letting off of the gas. Changed them out for 2 Turbo Tube mufflers from Summit for $60. Still a bit louder than I wanted but much better. I can hear the radio when doing 55mph now.
  15. I am aware of a couple of the disk brake swap kits available (ie rustyhope, scarebird, etc.). Ive never felt the need for disk brakes like some do but if it increases longevity due to parts availability... I would like to hear from anyone using a manual master cylinder on a disk setup. I have heard mixed thoughts on it in general through the years due to drum brakes being self energizing, disk systems requiring much higher pressure, etc, etc. I considered trying to reline the shoes, got several buddies who have old obscure cars too so might be a useful skill to have. Would be interested in any recommendations for possible friction material. I have heard that for these cars you want the older style softer woven style friction material vs the harder ceramic type stuff typical of modern shoes. May have to find a set of original shoes to reline, as the ones that are on the car do not have the rivet holes or drill the existing ones. I will have to do some digging at the parts stores and see if i cant come up with a drum that i can modify to rivet onto the old hubs, luckily i got a machinist buddy with access to some very large equipment so modifications are possible. Discussed welding the drums up with a welder buddy of mine, the engineer in me has a bad feeling it wouldn't work very well and even if it did may not provide very good performance, on the other hand the industrial mechanic side of me says it may be worth a shot.
  16. No, what I meant by tape is - along the fabric sheathing from the ignition ... if I tap into the harness it will be with crimped splices to bullet or spade connectors
  17. Hey Dodgeb4ya, local seller has a '52 Hemi out of a dodge car with the trans. I believe it might have the fluid drive unit. Wouldn't that work too if it is a fluid drive unit?
  18. If you go this route I would suggest mounting a light bulb in it so that when you are running at night it lights up like the rest of the dash.
  19. I don't want to tape......never tape.....always use a crimp or a soldered connection when splicing an electrical harness. Do you want to burn your car to the ground?
  20. Way too wide for your application. 1951 desoto front track width 56 5/16 inches. crown vic front track width 63.4 inches. 3.5 inches of tire sticking out of your front wheel wells.
  21. Hard to judge car with no pics. Don't even know what body type it is.
  22. I just looked up the the ballpark value of a 1950 Plymouth 4 door sedan in the NADA car value guide that is online. They don't give values for non-running cars, but the low retail value is listed at about 4 K. But not running, it is going to be worth much less than that. You said that it has been sitting for about 20 years. Do you know if the gas tank was drained and the carburetor run until it was out of gas? If fuel was left in the lines and carburetor, the fuel will have rotted and turned to jelly. That might be the reason your car won't start. Also the clutch plate might be stuck to the flywheel. If you could have a garage fix those problems so it would run, the worth of the car would go way up compared to a non running car. But the cost of having a shop do that might be too much to gamble, and 4 door sedans are usually not popular sellers with collectors. So it might be safer to sell it as a project car if you mainly want to get rid of it, even though the sales price might not be much. I would guess much less than 1 K. You'll have to see how the market responds to your ads.
  23. Well I work at a salvage yard and we actually sell quite a few 03-up vic subframe for projects. I just figured if the rails are the right distance apart could just bolt it on.
  24. I wouldn't think that you'd find much info anywhere on that swap. Why a crown vic? You already have one? Not most people's first choice.
  25. Ok so I'm a noob on here been skimming posts and searching through the forum.my grandfather recently bought a barn find 51 desoto 9 person sedan/limo.wanting to do a crown vic subframe but have found little info on it any help is appreciated.
  26. Thanks Bisquik. I had stock replacement shocks before on project cars and the stock version of this truck, stiff KYB gas charged shocks, and even tried a set of comp 90/10 drag launching shocks on my old 72 demon. All of them were fun- I like changing stuff around and seeing the personality of the ride change with them. Like changing cams but much less work. These qa1 shocks are not expensive as far as race shocks go but they’re by far the fanciest shocks I ever bought. I think it’s going to be fun trying different stuff- the fronts are double adjustable and single for the backs so I have about a gazillion options. I will say that the racemaster dot drag radials are amazing. I haven’t really floored it while footbraking yet but the 1/2 to 3/4 throttle in 1st gear that used to leave black stripes all over the roads my neighborhood now doesn’t even bark the tires- just throws me back in the seat. I’m even halfway confident that the driveline will hold up now with my forged yokes and overkill driveshaft. I decided to pull the bed and install a new tube crossmember for the rear shocks so it might be a week or two before I can get it set up.
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