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Why in the world would you use stainless? 🤣 I bought a set of new lines for a modern car, at a local store, once. Had to "adapt" all of them because they did not fit right.

Make your own, unless it's stainless, that stuff is a monster to work with and requires expensive tooling.

Another vote for making your own. It’s like a puzzle to solve. You screw a few up. You learn. You get better. Building and shaping your first ever 3 ft line across the left rear axle housing? Order two 25 ft rolls of 3/16” brake line tube. 😄

I see what you did there.

I've heard a rumor that flathead replacement fuel pumps have a half-baked machined pin installed 🤔

First drive of the year this evening. Only a couple of miles, but it sure felt good.

I was going by his last sentence which says it happened when he turned it on.

It’s good to learn with these old bombs. When you get that perfect double flare you’ll then realize that you forgot to put the nut on. Oops . I enjoy making up my own fuel and brake lines. I agree with Plymouthy Adam’s, you’ll have to reshape them anyway after unpacking them.

preformed and then curve and bent to fit a box for shipping, you better off making your own tailor fit set.......

I see where Bernbaum sells pre-formed brake lines and maybe fuel lines as well. Anybody had experience with pre-formed lines?

That is a very reasonable answer. I have some smallblock dodge ARP rod bolts and just like the pontiac bolts, they also will not go into the 218 holes. I would appreciate your efforts in measuring your flathead rod bolts to compare numbers when you get the time. Thank you and anyone else who has early flathead dodge rods available to measure the rod bolts. This seems like a plausible answer. WELL AS A MATTER OF FACT: You are the man of the hour. I just went out to the garage with my nut/bolt gauge and also a 3/8-24 standard bolt with nut and amazingly so, they fit the Dodge rod hole, rod bolt, and nut exactly. Additionally, the pontiac and ARP bolt will not thread onto the nut/bolt gauge or the 3/8-24 bolt and nut. We have a winner!! Sorry, no chicken dinner. But many thanks for the solution. I never would have thought in that direction. Now it's a matter of if the rod and cap will take a reaming without interfering with the bearing. Thanks again for all the responses and especially the solution. It does seem odd that in all the builds online, no one mentions this. Thanks again all. dan...

nowhere near me but would be curious to know more about it. This is a 1940 Plymouth sedan has a 413 Chrysler engine with the 727 transmission. Engine and transmission and steering column professionally installed. It is a project car it does need to be finished. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/440774855160232/

Sadly they nay or may not have them .... They do have a nice goodbye letter .... just selling off what they have in stock but think they wrote it 2 years ago. https://www.rustyhope.com/

What about Rusty Hope's front shock mounts? Check out my thread from March '23 Finally Installed Rusty Hope's Front Shock Mounts!

This is the pump I bought Oct 2018. I think I installed it in early 2019. It has worked well all these years, so I can't complain. Since it is a DC pump it doesn't care about polarity. Just ground the brown wire and run the black to the switch. Sorry about the long link. https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Electric-Installation-Inline-Carbureted/dp/B07DNJWHCC/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2VN0E70Z3Q3LX&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.jarfSLsnWgY9oh3DaaGUigmjkYDmA8ebz1BFQ_fmn5RHKbokuusddFI7JS2eYAOEu9O6QsXufUpnrhT5cszKgFBvSuMjQo-wSnLvc-h6diU9XQIxaLiVDDDPa5mkITwaDFh8kSInXex8t1jOZj06_kS17B7fKAevEpIxwox6eKvxUbRvAqgrsF7ipAWFrG9wmYaso4qzD0ed-h-Etv5ikjZQiqmOIAEkrOb69wuZ7Bw.65jGwliF3s5mwkNFPKQgCBM4czITeADLHY9CvMytHrI&dib_tag=se&keywords=6v+electric+fuel+pump&qid=1713467892&sprefix=6v+electric+fuel%2Caps%2C111&sr=8-3 Joe Lee

My 93 F250 rear shock upper mounts sit about 2 " inboard and below the frame rail. To install these on my truck would require mounting them on the inside of the C shaped frame, open side of the frame is on the inside so I would guess the standout to the shock stud to be about 4 inches. you'll have to wait till it stops raining and dries up a bit if you need more accurate measurements.

Excellent idea Joe, adding the momentary switch. Do you know the brand of your pump?

You did mention Goodyear and 70's....thought this would be enough....lol

Early 70's I was driving from Georgia to Madison - in the Rockford area. To pay the toll the driver threw the coins into a collection basket on the side of the booth at the time. As I approached the booth I ran over their rumble strips. Immediately BOTH rear Good Year tires blew at the same time after driving all night from Albany, GA. Why?

My Great Grandfather, and guessing my Great Grandmother with the '55 Dodge (I'll be inheriting this summer) and what I believe is a '55 DeSoto. The truck was my Great Grandfather's then my Uncle's, and then my Parent's, and soon to be mine. My Dad just told me that he is getting too old to work on too many toys, and he is giving it to me. It is in a little worse shape than here, but pretty much original. I'll post pictures of it's current state, in the correct area, when I get it out of the barn, but from what I recall it definitely will need a gas tank and fuel pump, amongst other things.

What is Petronix saying about this when ya ask'm about this prob?

I would check how far away they move the shock from the frame. i do like that mounting surface. I been thinking about my 1948 Desoto.

Did you lubricate the rubber with soapy water, as they show in the video? 😏

What did you get in the 225/75?

I put my switch in a dash hole blank next to the key switch. I also used a momentary switch, so these is no chance of leaving it on. I wired it to the hot side of the ignition switch (fused with a 10 amp fuse). While my pump is not a carter, it is a 6v pump and it is great. Love it for the prime when I don't start my car for a few weeks. Joe Lee