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Did you guys already watch the instructions?
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Unfortunately I don’t have a gauge for checking fuel pressure yet. I guess that’s the next investment. For now I’m insulating the line from the pump to the carb. If that doesn’t work I’ll bypass the electric pump and try that. I just checked the line and found no leaks so that’s good.
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moose started following My 54 Belvedere, and windshield questions
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I haven't posted in a while, but there is at least one other thread about this car. I have owned it since December 1989. It is my first car, got it when I was 17. Two years ago I had a fire under the hood. Not big enough to cause a lot of problems, but enough that I decided it was finally time to do a mostly full "restoration." I disassembled everything, stripped most of it, then took it to a good paint shop. Picked it up last December, and now have it mostly put back together. I have driven it around the block, and hoped to drive to my local glass shop to have the windshield and rear window installed professionally. When I talked to him about doing the job, he seemed enthusiastic, and knowledgeable. I dropped off all the parts(windshields, weatherstripping, and stainless) yesterday waiting for a call telling me to bring the car. Went by the shop this morning and he told me he wasn't sure how to do it and afraid to try. I've got the manual and instructions, and have read everything about it, and now have the weatherstrip installed on each of the glasses. Question for anyone who has done this on a 53-54 car. Do I need to put the stainless on before I rope the windshield(or rear window) per the manual? I've built a stand to hold the window vertical, which makes it a bit easier, but it's still quite difficult to get the stainless in place. How hard is it to install the stainless after the windows are in place? Thanks for any info.
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lafemme56 joined the community
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I admit to going to tractor supply often also. My jack stands, floor jacks .... Boots, bolts, the paint on my truck, plants and garden supplies. I think of it as a big convenience store that sells things I like .... I recently went there to look at oil. I buy my oil from walmart usually, I need Dexron III ATF for the wife car. Walmart did not have it. So I looked at TSC ... they did not have it either. I will order from Amazon now. What I did see was some pretty incredibly high prices for oil at TSC. Oil at walmart was $20-$40 for 5 quarts, $40-$65 at tsc for same stuff. I like tsc but not for oil. .... And the shelf's were pretty bare.
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ANSWERED 48 b1c door seal installation
mikes48 replied to mikes48's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
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Forgot to add that you should take a reading of each pump. The electric with the car not running and then the mechanical running. When you take the reading with it running the mechanical pump pressure might not change as it will only check the pressure of the pump not the volume. If you take a reading behind the mechanical pump, it may read vacuum and that may change when you take the electric pump out of the circuit. This may involve installing the gauge a couple of times in two different areas. Joe Lee
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b923 joined the community
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Did you install a fuel filter before the electric fuel pump? I believe the electrics are more prone to fouling than a mechanical due to the motor being fuel cooled. I can't think of a reason the warmer temp would be an issue though, unless the switch from winter to summer blend fuel has something to do with it. You might want to take a fuel pressure reading at the carb then run a bypass line around the electric pump, take another reading and see if the pump is causing a problem. That's all I can think of right now. Some others might chime in with something else hopefully. Joe Lee
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SteveTanderson joined the community
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The best I have found so far is Wizards metal polish. I've tried Mothers and Never Dull and the Wizards works far better than either of the other two.
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Will it do after the truck has been started? Does the engine need to be brought up to temp or just started?
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Joe, my mechanical pump is new and didn’t solve the problem. The weird thing is that the problem is temperature sensitive and my engine doesn’t run hot (steady 160 degrees). My tank and lines are new. I’m going to try bypassing the electric pump to see if that makes any difference. I never had this issue before I added the electric pump but it didn’t start doing this immediately after so I’m stumped.
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That's a reasonable thought except the existing 218 bolts are snug in the rod and cap holes. I absolutely cannot put a standard 3/8-24 rod bolt into the 218 rod or cap. ( I could problably smash them in and destroy the threads in the process. ) The 218 hole diameter is too small for a 3/8-24 bolt. Attached is a pic of the two bolts. Best harbor freight caliper dimension of hole in Pontiac rod cap with 3/8 bolt is .384. Best harbor freight caliper dimension of hole in Dodge 218 rod cap is .370. Doesn't make any sense.
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So yesterday I had a backfire on start-up after sitting for a couple hours. Then a while later at the store after sitting about a 1/2 hour I had the clunk after turning ignition key on and off. After driving home and turning the engine off, I had the clunk again when turning the key on and off. This morning (w/o starting the truck), I turned the ignition key on and off many times (sometimes letting is stay on for a bit), with no response. All stock except 12v with Petronix ignition.
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soth122003 started following Fuel line routing and 48 P15 - Grille Moulding "clips" question
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I usually just buy a box of SOS pads from the dollar store and they work just fine and I haven't notices any damage to items I use them on. Joe Lee
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View Advert '47 Club Coupe for sale My 1947 Plymouth Club Coupe is up for sale. And yes it ran went I parked it. Rear brakes are slightly stuck. It will roll. It WILL run as I had been working on it recently. New water pump installed. I also have a metric ton of parts. Starters, generators, heater, an entire front clip, a 6 volt electric wiper motor and transmission from a '48 dump truck, and miscellaneous parts. Hoping to pass this collect along. Advertiser BigDaddyO Date 04/17/2024 Price $4,500 Category Individual Member Classified For Sale Ad
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While I don't have an Airtex fuel pump, I do have a electric fuel pump for prime and vapor lock. I've had it for a couple of years and I have never noticed a fuel issue while running the mechanical fuel pump drawing fuel through the electric prime pump. In another thread I have currently "Air in the Fuel Line", I was troubleshooting a fuel issue. One of my checks was fuel pressure. The prime pump is putting out 3 psi, while the mechanical is putting out 6 psi. Both were steady readings and did not interfere with each other. Turns out is most likely water and old gas combo. Your idea of a t-fitting sounds fine, but you may want to check the condition of the mechanical fuel pump, the state of the fuel (is it good or going bad, water in the fuel, etc..) pinhole in the line that may be affected by the warmer weather, just to name a few. It might also be like you think that the electric pump is creating drag in the fuel. Only way to find out is to check. Not all pumps are created equal. Sam and DJK also raise good points about doing away with the mechanical pump all together. Me I like original stuff, but with the advent of technology, it might make more sense to upgrade some things to relieve the heart ache of a failure point. (My generator to an alternator after 2 armature failures in 5 years). It all boils down to what you want and then once you decide, all our friends here will chime in with suggestions on how best to do it. Joe Lee
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Time Left: 29 days and 19 hours
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My 1947 Plymouth Club Coupe is up for sale. And yes it ran went I parked it. Rear brakes are slightly stuck. It will roll. It WILL run as I had been working on it recently. New water pump installed. I also have a metric ton of parts. Starters, generators, heater, an entire front clip, a 6 volt electric wiper motor and transmission from a '48 dump truck, and miscellaneous parts. Hoping to pass this collect along.$4,500
Kingston, New York - US
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I think I’m a year with the electric 6V boost pump in Chrysler. No complaints. It will push through vapor lock. I have done so with it. I do like it spliced into ignition switch (wire to fuel gage). Then I cannot leave it on when I park the car. I have left the heater blower and AM radio on by accident. They were wired to direct non-switched power sourced. Dead battery the next morning. A sure way to ensure premature death of an otherwise good 6V battery.
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I consider points a switc0h. Open, close, on, off. Ignition switch on, ign switch off. Logic tells me my previous post is a possible scenario and every electrical circuit in the truck is available when the key is on.. I don't know whether or not Pertronix would or could respond similarly. How repeatable is this condition? Now that it's sat for a while will it do it before starting the engine or does it have to be run for a while. Will it do it after sitting for ten minutes or a half hour? Will it do it a second time, turning the key on and off immediately after it does it?
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Ok. Here is the Summit Racing listing of electric fuel pumps (2000+ hits related to fuel pumps): https://www.summitracing.com/search?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=electric fuel pump Most of the pumps have fewer than ten reviews except the......wait for it.......Carter pumps, the most common which have hundreds of reviews averaging at least 4.5 stars. Here is the search return for just Carter pumps and related stuff: https://www.summitracing.com/search?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=carter electric fuel pump If you want to look elsewhere you might check into Bosch, AC Delco, Airtex and Walbro but I have no personal experience with them. I've run Carter rotary pumps on two vehicles over the past 15 years with no failures. But the one on the Plymouth might die tomorrow.....
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Just installed a Red Crown Gasoline light in our carport to go with the truck. I am pretty happy with the results.
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Not to hijack this thread, but I've had a lot of experience with Amazon and it's policies and I don't trust 4 and 5 star reviews at all. I go to the 1 and 2 star reviews because you know those folks don't get paid to write them. Amazon Reviews: How We Spot the Fakes Back to electric pumps- any suggestions for American made? Are there any? If buying NOS would there be a possible problem with order non-ethanol-loving rubber diaphragms, etc?
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Odds are most of those 1 star reviews problems are caused by the actual problem (the reviewer) not the pump. I like to note the date of the review, if I see a pattern of complaints after a certain time frame I think maybe there was a change by the manufacturer.
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Maybe some meathead put in different bolts in those years? Maybe metric? Do you have a thread pitch gauge?
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Thank you both for responding and your suggestions. I spoke with vintagepowerwagons earlier and they referred me to Tony Smith at moparmontana.com. I've sent moparmontana this same question and am waiting for a response if possible. I could put stock rod bolts back in but as was said, it doesn't explain what it going on. It's almost as if the bolt thread is between 11/32 and 3/8 which is not possible. We certainly wouldn't have used Whitworth thread and there was no such thing as metric here at that time. I've spent a lot of time online searching this issue and see absolutely no other mention of an odd rod bolt fit. I've downloaded Chrysler and Plymouth service manuals of the 40's and 50's and nothing there. I've downloaded Dodge flathead builds and nothing is mentioned, although I've seen torque specs which refer to the rod bolts as 3/8-24. If the rod bolt holes were larger diameter or the rods came from a single source, something could be inferred but neither is the case. Somewhere in all the performance flathead builds, someone must have installed ARP, Pioneer, or other aftermarket rod bolts and encountered this. I mean, Spitfire flatheads ran hard in the past circle track days. I simply cannot find a single mention of my rod bolt diameter issue. It is not possible that I am the only guy in the entire Mopar world in some 75+ years of flathead sixes who has encountered this situation. Anybody else curious or have some input? dan
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I got notice my tires are to be delivered today....225/75R15 for the 94 B250.......next up, tires for the 06 Caravan....wow do the years fly by....