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tires are a limited life commodity....they subject to lots of abuse....kept inside out of the harsh direct sunlight they fare pretty well on the collector/hobby cars with limited use. At age 32 years I replaced a set with zero cracking on sidewall or between the treads....they still looked great, but they did fail by way of bulge with belt separation but yet, the rubber never split. There are tell tell signs of most all radials going south. Never had a tire yet other than a set of Goodyears fail without prior indicator that is easily detected and if you attend it when it 'tells' you likely never to have a road use issue.

Just ordered Douglas, made in the USA tires for the Cranbrook from Walmart,$76 each, will mount them myself. 16 yo tires is really pushing it!!!!

For the speedo pinion seal, I found a Honda #91204-HB3-004, is a perfect fit.

not near totality.....but I got so see this!

Never tried it, but to get old undercoating off, I've heard that using a quick freeze spray works well, because, they say, it makes it not so sticky. I think they say you can freeze it, then wack the panel with a rubber mallet, and the stuff cracks up and breaks loose. I don't think I would want to try to dissolve it. Seems to me it would make it worse, unless it was a very thin layer. I have never tired to get any off, so I don't know what works best, just some ideas I've heard over the years.

Good to know that Joe got his RV unstuck. It was a bit of an ordeal getting a wrecker out there to pull him out.

Likely not a "factory" accesory, more likely a mass produced catalog or dealer option, these aren't listed in the Accesories section of the manuals.

Brad, also remember the gaps won't look as pretty as a modern....unless you prefit everything and filled and ground, you kinda end up with "best as one can do".

1950 Ford F1 2 Miles BLACK Truck 350ci V8 Turbo 350 automatic On Ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/256481423433?

remanufactured calipers by Cardone...caveat emptor

have ya looked at the floorboard alignment on the pedals? are the gaps at the door and cab door frame near the latches about the same? I reckon once the cab gets squared on the frame, then the fenders can be lined up to the doors and grille panel to the frame. Probably wouldn't hurt to verify that front bumper alignment; if the frame rails are a li'l tweaked at the bumper, that's gonna throw some things off a bit.

SURVIVOR: saw this Dodge between Lake Graham and Newcastle

VINTAGEPIC: saw this '39 Dodge on the FB

Pro tip. If you have a bunch of transmissions and go hunting through them for the proper gear to match the 3.73 you swapped into your coupe make sure you reinstall all the wrong ones correctly. Otherwise later on when Dad goes to install one of those in place of the OD he's not selling with the 50 Plymouth bad things will happen to the new owner. Like the tail housing exploding....

I think it is a factory accessory. All of them I have seen look like that. The “D” was added by the guy I just bought the truck from. Current plans are to use it when I rebuild the truck.

Just visited my area TSC to pick up some oil. Shelves had a pretty meager selection. On the positive side, there was a good supply of SAE 20 and 30. Plenty of SAE 10w 40. Some of that new 5w 20 stuff. I have been using thier 15w40 Traveller All Fleet brand since my rebuild 14 years ago. This oil is now 10W 40. I guess at this point in time, I will pretend I didnt notice the change and carry on as before. Which was adding a pint every 600 or 700 miles between annual changes. Now I guess I need to consider replacing my 2008 tires.

Nice bid'ness coupe! I saw an exact one like that years ago here in California - '52 or '53. It had a V-8 too, not sure if it was a hemi or poly.

Sorry. I have a very old relative who is also into telling "stories" most of which never happened and are obviously so absurd to be even remotely plausible. I try to nod and let most things pass by, for the 101st time I am hearing it, but after a certain while I still tend to get irritated when the level of shenanigans reaches a certain limit 😆 Is that a factory accessory or a DIY? 🤔

C'mon now, my story and get to tell it the way I want .... 🤣🤣🤣 Not sure what is more important, chatting with my 85 year old Uncle on the front porch on a spring day telling me the story ..... Or the actual truth to the story. I sure would like some more days with Uncle telling me some stories ....

Here is a photo of the brush guard, IF the computer photo gods allow...

HEET is 99% iso-propyl alcohol and would most likely be useful only if using non-ethanol gasoline. If the tank has ethanol-laced gasoline in it, the ethanol is already absorbing moisture that is in the gas (that is why ethanol-contaminated gasoline is nasty stuff....corrosion city). The amount of ethanol in a few gallons of E10 is far more per volume than what is in the red plastic bottle. It does work well with gas-fired camp stoves, however. Update: Since last fall my TR6 has been stored in a temporary enclosed garage (Harbor Fright) and this spring it has presented a couple of yips which I have wondered might be due to water condensing in the tank because of the outdoor storage. Los Control got me thinking about this, so why not. I added the appropriate ratio of HEET to the tank just in case there was still some moisture in the tank. Yep, a sniff test confirmed HEET is good ol' alcohol (no taste test...). I figured it wouldn't hurt anything to add it since the tank already has E10 in it.

Come on, now, let's not go crazy here. Siphon pump works just fine 🥲

My point was that O.D. cars had final drive ratios in the neighborhood of 4.10 ( some places say 4.30 ) and the speedometer pinion that went with it. Thus no matter what gear you were in the speedometer would read incorrectly. Which is true even if that line was unnecessary ( my bad ). All transmissions that have speedometer gears measure the driveshaft rotation speed. Some exceptions are for example VW Beatles measure left front wheel speed and SAAB 99/900 which have the gear on the differential. You can buy speedometers that measure GPS signals and the are dead on with no connection to the wheels or driveshaft but they are really pricey. What I was trying to get across was that you can correct your speedometer reading with an easy swap of the speedometer pinion gear. If you want an O.D. transmission ( R10 G1 ) you can change the speedo pinion with the one in your old transmission. However if you swap differential carriers to get the ratio you want, you need to score the speedo pinion from that car. There is an exception here in that the 3.54 ratio is usually in an automatic transmission car and that speedometer pinion is not the same design as the manual transmission. Slight changes in tire size can get you closer as well.