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  2. I'm guessing it was around 1975 and living with my sister/BIL .... I was a bad kid and got kicked out of school, so went to live with them to continue school in a new district I was helping the brother inlaw convert some old hoopty over to 12 volt. I asked why? Car was not charging, A new generator was expensive the battery was weak and needed replaced .... It was a lot of $$ back then to maintain a 6V system. He could get a used 12V battery from the wrecking yard for $5, A used alternator, light bulbs .... everything needed for less then $50 at the wrecking yard. It literally was cheaper to convert the car rather then keep it 6V. Same thing today, it is cheaper .... Especially if I went to a wrecking yard and bought all common parts that are needed .... My price list is all new shipped to my door. I have far more advantages over a 6V system, it is cheaper to maintain, It just rocks my world to be 12V. If I wanted a 100 point show car trailer queen, 6V would be mandatory ..... A 49 Dodge truck that hauls dogs and firewood, 12V is perfect.
  3. Today
  4. I used 4 qts in my test, engine uses 5. My oil pan sump has baffles in it too. As I stated I will be using an O ring.
  5. The gasket set and the seal work for OD and STD transmission. That is one of the beauties of the R10 G1 Overdrive.
  6. powerflite is a two speed automatic
  7. Why is it whenever anyone asks how to convert to 12v the anti-12v crowd jumps in with why not to? If they asked the pros and cons, yeah that would be appropriate. If you want any sort of electrical accessory you are either stuck with archaic, poor performing 6v stuff, Am radio (or beaucoup $ conversion), poor headlight choice (6v incandescent or crappy LEDs). It is what it is.
  8. My answer was a little lacking in detail, I was on thee road using my phone. Here's the valve guide picture from Tony https://www.facebook.com/thefreewheelingtonysmith/posts/pfbid02DEDHDF8oDH4At7zqLpbdj4yX9ybU4LEwpbEYi61TjEXyShNvaDHy84M1feqYGg7Tl How long a guide do you need? https://www.speed-talk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=19767 Assuming a 218/230 length * 1.15 * stem diameter = 4.845 * 1.15 * 0.3405 = 1.89" Stock guide length is 2.813" So almost an inch can come out of the guide length, all of it from the port window.
  9. Two things, the static level will drop as the pump cycles oil thru the system and as you drive the car the oil will slosh around changing the eleel. Then there is windage, as the crank spins it will trap a portion of the oil in it's orbit. So, your actual level will be less. The oring is insurance.
  10. Well, let's rephrase it this way: due to many factors, people have widely different experience interacting with the surrounding environment. So many things that appear to be obvious to some individuals might very well be not so much familiar to others. Therefore, you have to aim to accommodate everyone's best interests when dealing with the general public
  11. Finally getting the 230 assembled, its going well. Decided to investigate the position of the oil level vs the pivot on the oil pickup/pivot. With the oil pan leveled front to back & side to side; I poured 4 qts of water into the pan sump. I accounted for the up pipe thread-into the block and checked the position of the pickup pivot. The pivot point is completely submerged by 1 to 1.5 inches. So the main advantage I see to using an O ring on the pivot is to control the oil being picked up through the strainer. I'll do the O ring mod, with this in mind.
  12. I'm not following the cheaper to go 12v unless you are referring to the incredibly complicated system the original poster is describing. Less than $150 for a new 6v alternator and nothing on the car has to be changed. I would, however, upgrade to the proper 6v battery and starter cables if they are not present, that will solve the cold weather starting problems.
  13. Also, look what I've found: Doe this look like your radio? Seems a bit shorter 🤨
  14. What charging system are you using? ..... In the past and even today it is cheaper and easier to just convert from 6V > 12V. I'm using a 12V 65 amp chebby alternator ... because I have reading comprehension issues .... cant read worth a crap! I wanted a single wire internally regulated but purchased a externally regulated .... so that added a extra item to wire in ... (regulator) All the light bulbs need to be changed, you will need a $12 voltage reducer for your fuel gauge, probably better off to buy a 12V heater blower motor. I would imagine the horn would work on 12 for awhile, unless it was worn out in the first place or they just layed on it and over heated it. You must live good to have electric wipers in a B1D .... My B1B has vacuum ..... again a $12 converter would fix that ...... I just do not understand the $75 buck converter or the Just kind of sounds like you got lost in the weeds on your conversion that you inherited when buying the truck. I figure I will have $300-$350 into a complete new 12V wiring system. I needed a new wiring harness. $75 for a basic 12 circuit from Amazon. $75 Alternator/regulator about $75 from rockauto. $75 I bought a 3 pack of the 12V > 6V converters from Amazon for $20 $20 All new bulbs including 2 new truck tail lights ... $50 $50 The different ends, extra wire, switches, flashers .... guessing $100 $100 So I already have $320 into it and just collecting parts ..... Someday I'm going to wire the truck! But I have everything for it .... And it is cheaper to go 12V then stay 6V ... IMHO
  15. It can Bevtough getting a car started on 6v in the winter, and generators are getting tough to come by, though I did find a shop that still rebuilds them. Problem is, they don’t look like original equipment at all. And, you’re right about Chinese parts. They do make some quality stuff. These converters appear to be well made and certainly worth the money.
  16. Did you ever find the steering wheel bearing and bushing? I just got them out of the column on my 52 wayfarer. They are in pretty good shape. You are welcome to have them if you can use them. Send me a message if you are interested.
  17. I’ve been really busy lately, but was just out in the shop after posting the previous message. The more I thought about it, the more I was thinking you’re right. It must fit if it was listed as an option. I was looking at the card board covering on the cab side of the firewall in that area. It looks like it’s scored for removal. That’s suspicious. And, I can see a bit of a bump-out on the other side of the firewall that might be there to accommodate the radio. It isn’t much, though. There’s some wires going through a hole at the top of that area that the previous owner put in. I’ll have to move that, too. Additionally, there’s all the cables and wires associated with the heater/vent controls just below it. I’ve gotta pull all that stuff out and see if it will wiggle in. It’s going to be tight, at best. I attached a pic of the firewall with the area circled in red.
  18. This is interesting. According to the license plate, this truck was registered sometime between 1946 and 1959 in Lvov, USSR. Might've been a Lend-Lease car.
  19. If the 802 was an accessory for your specific car, one would reasonably assume that it fits without issues. I suspect that you've definitely attempted to mount it correctly, etc.? Also, what do you mean by bells and whistles, how does it work? Is it an FM radio now? Do the dial buttons still work?
  20. I like 6 volt 😅 Thank you for the tips, though. There is no reason to be biased against Chinese parts, in particular. They can make cheap things, they can also make good things like iPhones, etc., it is what ever you want to pay for.
  21. Or install a 6v alternator, keep the 6v battery and drive happily ever after. 😁
  22. I bought a ‘49 B-1-D about a year ago. The previous owner “converted” it to 12v. Well, tried to. He burned out the horn, damaged the wiper motor and fried the heater motor. I was able to clean up the commutator on the wiper motor and rewound the horn coil myself. You can buy a 12v motor that will fit in the model 61 heater from Amazon. Search for “35482 blower motor”. I found a 25 amp 12v-6v “buck” converter for $75 on eBay and wired it to power the horn, wipers, and fuel gauge. Works great. But, since I had some stuff on 22v and some on 6v, I had to do a bit of wiring. I would advise anyone considering a 12 v conversion to take the easy and cheap route. Instead of buying a $800-$1000 kit and change over to 12v, just buy a 50amp converter and a single-wire alternator. Replace the regulator with the converter (have someone with electrical experience do this) and everything on the car stays 6v. I found the source for the converters. It’s AliExpress, the Chinese eBay that is operated by Alibaba. China is selling stuff on a fire sale lately. I found a 50amp converter from the same company for under $30 US, and bought 2 for spares. They are robust and well-made by a large Chinese electrical manufacturer - Szwengao. I wouldn’t normally recommend purchasing something from China, but no one in the US makes these. If you’re not averse to a little risk, download the AliExpress app, get a separate debit card to buy them with (just to be safe). 50amps is overkill, but they should last a long time. Hopefully.
  23. Hi all - Need some help identifying some parts...Is this a '42 Chrysler dash clock? Any idea what year/model windshield wiper mechanism this is? And...I think these '41 Plymouth window sill things are hard to come by...
  24. I bought a Mopar 802 last year and had it rebuilt by a guy in Canada that specializes in rebuilding/upgrading vintage car radios. It’s got all the bells and whistles while looking like a new 802. Here’s the “issue” I ran into: while the Mopar Accessories catalog for the B-1 trucks lists an install kit that accommodates both the 602 and 802 models, I can tell you that the 802 is at least an inch too long to fit between the firewall and dash on my ‘49. Now, I’ll be the first to admit it was foolish not to check that critical dimension, but since I measured the opening on the dash and it was a perfect fit, and the catalog says it was an option, I just assumed it would. The guy who rebuilt it said every 802 he’s had were the same size. Fortunately, the new electronics don’t take up much room in the case, so I’ll shorten up the case a couple inches on the back side and it’ll be ok. I’m guessing the 602 is probably shorter due to a smaller chassis, but I don’t know. Seems unlikely Mopar would have built a separate chassis for the trucks, since so few radios were ever sold for them. Anyone else experience anything like this, or had an 802 that did fit? I’m curious. I posted this for those who are thinking of heading down this path. Yes, it was extremely expensive to convert.
  25. Andy's show two different seals a T115 and a T115A and but does not stipulate between standard and overdrive but does stipulate for vehicles with powerflite trans.
  26. So I am trying to find out if anyone knows if the rear seal on the O/D trans and standard three speed trans are the same seal? I have a 48 Plymouth that an O/D was installed in, I have no idea what year the O/D is or if that matters, I know that the same drive shaft was used when the swap was made from standard three speed to O/D. I know that there is a difference in seals if you have a vehicle with the fluid drive per Andy's
  27. I hear you.. body working tools are somewhat reasonably priced, it's when you buy the blades,discs,bits and such that you have secure a 2nd house mtg to get them.
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