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They do make a tool to straighten out hard llnes https://www.amazon.com/Tool-Guy-Republic-Tubing-Straightener/dp/B073W197H5

There is no rational reason for having a plastic filter in proximity to the exhaust manifold. I don't even like having a metal filter in that location because it can absorb heat which is transferred to the fuel (vapor lock). There are locations that are much better suited for a filter.

I recently replaced the windshield in the '69 Beetle. A bottle of KY Lube from the local drug store turned out to be a superb windshield molding lube. It also triggered several off-topic comments from bystanders......

Most of us don't have a cage to use when airing lock ring wheel/tire combos. I'm one of those without. Haven't done one in a while but when dealing with them , I put the wheel on backward, ring toward the inside before airing to higher pressures. Seat ring first with just a few psi in the tube. Might not be possible on all axle/frame/wheel combos but works on some. RuGlyde on the beads, corn starch in tire and on tube. Dad used to wrap a chain around the tire and thru all the wheel holes to retain all the pieces 'just in case'. Never seemed particularly safe to me. A local tire shop operator in my home town was killed by one of the two piece widow-makers when I was a little kid. Hearing the description in adult conversation made me very cautious my whole life.

Doesn't even require a fault. The points in a stock ignition system, brushes in starter and/or generator will provide a spark. Gas leak from any source on a hot engine, followed by a shut down and restart are the worst case situation. Leaking gas vaporizes, no fan moving air, heavy vapor accumulates in the engine compartment, then a restart creates the spark. Especially risky if one parks in a garage. Not a common situation, but one I would take care not to have occur.

I used a pre bent set to replace the brake lines on the P15. Wasn't sure I had the skill to make the double flares. They were bent to fit the shipping box and had tabs to show where they needed to be un bent. They fit good. If I ever have to do that again I will make my own. Next I'll replace the fuel line. I got roll tubing for that project.

1949 f5 ford coe truck car hauler On Ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/386927287744?

I like aluminum paint, it dries without any buildup. Check the inside of the tires for any tags, that could eventually rub a pin hole in the tube. I wiped the inside of the tires and the tubes with corn starch with a cloth. It doesn’t need a lot. I paint the bead of tire with rubber lube, so the bead slides easily on the wheel as it sets, you can put the lube on the wheel seat to ensure a soft seating of the bead. The flap doesn’t need any lube. Set the opening of the lock ring opposite the valve stem. I have a special hammer/mallet with a duck bill on the other side. I use the rubber part to tap the lock ring into place as I fill the tire slowly by adjusting the pressure on my regulator. This assumes that your rings are clean and no cracks, they have been painted and the notch in the wheel where they lock is perfectly clean. I’ve trashed wheels and rings that had been beaten with metal hammers. The lock ring ends should be almost touching when done correctly. Any questions, ask, it is a risky job even if you’ve done it before. These are 16” wheels, but the same design as the 20” wheels that I have. Once the bead is set and the lock ring is secured properly, I let the air out and refill with the valve core installed to eliminate any tube wrinkles. After you get it to pressure, you can bend the valve stem for access when the wheels are on the truck. If there is anything you don’t understand, ask. Rick D.

That's a good point, did not think about the pressure. I cannot find the data sheet for the fel-pro rubber-cork material... Other manufacturers rate theirs at around 100-150psi 🤔

Are your rims actually rusty on the inside? Mine were pretty clean (original paint, too), so I just washed them and that's it. The tubeless tires use soapy water for mounting. Since we have tubes, I just used the good old tire talc powder. Both on the tube and inside the tire (spread it around with a piece of cloth, etc). Do not use organic baby powder for automotive tires 🤣 You don't have to worry about setting the bead, etc. Your biggest concern should be how to not pinch the tube in between the tire and the rim. Also, make sure that you have the correct-size tubes. One of my old tubes had a fold in it. When I put the tires on, I inflated them to around 10 psi, just to hold shape, and then pushed around the sidewall, on both sides, to make sure that the tube was nicely seated in the middle of the rim.

Finally found some new 7.50 x 20” tires and picked them up today. What are some suggestions for coating the inner rim and split ring? I was going to use rustoluem on the rims and baby powder the flap & tube, 3-36 on the rings when mounting. Not sure if I’ll need to ether for setting the bead on these since I have tubes? I figure there are old school tire guys on here that may have better suggestions? I have (6) to do and don’t what any re-works. Have some 30t straps that I am planning to wrap. Also have log chains but thought the straps could be adjusted better for safety. As always—thank you, Kevin

I bought a really cheap pair of brake spring pliers years ago. They bent before the spring even budged. Got my money back and bought a slightly more expensive pair. Same story. Got my money back again but went to another store where I bought an expensive pair. I’ve probably used them a hundred times since and they still look new. You probably know the moral of the story but I’ll tell you anyway…….. spend the money and buy quality tools that lasts.

What Dodge?

So shoot me, but imagine an eight foot pickup bed behind that cabover....

NHOU.

It was probably round originally and has been subjected to years of being compressed into a square cut groove. I wouldn't want to subject cork to the pressure that is developed in an oil pump. Are those Ebay rings square cut or round? Calipers to measure ID and OD of groove.

Also have decided to replace my pilot bushing the new one arrived today

These o-rings are still available on e-bay... The size is listed at 2-17/32 or 64.3mm (not sure ID or OD though 🤣). The original ring is square cross-section, correct. However, I suspect that either type (or even a properly-sized cork) will work. I will dress it with sealant, anyway. I'll take my cap off, today, to see what's in there. Technically, you can even bead-seal it without the ring, like it is done on some modern vehicles. I do not like the sealant-only solution, though. This is likely done for cost saving.

You know, looking at the pics in the link I provided, they don't look like square cut O rings, but if that is what they are then that's what you need. McMaster Carr has a good listing of square cut O rings in Buna N

More funny is the kit also comes with the retainer clip that's in the picture and I didn't see

That could explain y I have the only one I need lol This is all great content to help folks work on clutch issues I greatly appreciate everyone's help

O-rings do not work for this app... I have several o-ring assortment boxes and tried 3-4 different ones. None worked, all tries still leaked often worse than before. It was originally a square rubber seal of just the right thickness.. It needs to stay that type seal. Where to get one? I do not know these days. Check some of the Mopar parts suppliers. Can this type be bought at a local bearing and seal seller? They used to be avail on EBAY. Now? DJ

I would just buy the correct O ring, Buna N should be the proper material. https://www.globaloring.com/blog/how-to-properly-size-an-o-ring-the-first-time-around/ If the cross section falls between two standard thickness, get the larger of the two. But odds are yours just got old and cracked.

Autozone sells the same lines cheaper (at least around here). That is, if you need them now; otherwise - Amazon coil.

Okay, that makes sense. I was just making sure that the o-ring is not included in the gap calculation... The ring needs to be slightly thicker than the groove, in order to make sealing contact. I'll try to find a matching ring or attempt to fabricate one from a soft cork gasket material. I need to check how thick my cork sheets are. I might even be able to re-seal the original ring, but I suspect that it will fall apart as soon as I take it out. 🤣