All Activity

1950 Ford F1 2 Miles BLACK Truck 350ci V8 Turbo 350 automatic On Ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/256481423433?

remanufactured calipers by Cardone...caveat emptor

have ya looked at the floorboard alignment on the pedals? are the gaps at the door and cab door frame near the latches about the same? I reckon once the cab gets squared on the frame, then the fenders can be lined up to the doors and grille panel to the frame. Probably wouldn't hurt to verify that front bumper alignment; if the frame rails are a li'l tweaked at the bumper, that's gonna throw some things off a bit.

SURVIVOR: saw this Dodge between Lake Graham and Newcastle

VINTAGEPIC: saw this '39 Dodge on the FB

Pro tip. If you have a bunch of transmissions and go hunting through them for the proper gear to match the 3.73 you swapped into your coupe make sure you reinstall all the wrong ones correctly. Otherwise later on when Dad goes to install one of those in place of the OD he's not selling with the 50 Plymouth bad things will happen to the new owner. Like the tail housing exploding....

I think it is a factory accessory. All of them I have seen look like that. The “D” was added by the guy I just bought the truck from. Current plans are to use it when I rebuild the truck.

Just visited my area TSC to pick up some oil. Shelves had a pretty meager selection. On the positive side, there was a good supply of SAE 20 and 30. Plenty of SAE 10w 40. Some of that new 5w 20 stuff. I have been using thier 15w40 Traveller All Fleet brand since my rebuild 14 years ago. This oil is now 10W 40. I guess at this point in time, I will pretend I didnt notice the change and carry on as before. Which was adding a pint every 600 or 700 miles between annual changes. Now I guess I need to consider replacing my 2008 tires.

Nice bid'ness coupe! I saw an exact one like that years ago here in California - '52 or '53. It had a V-8 too, not sure if it was a hemi or poly.

Sorry. I have a very old relative who is also into telling "stories" most of which never happened and are obviously so absurd to be even remotely plausible. I try to nod and let most things pass by, for the 101st time I am hearing it, but after a certain while I still tend to get irritated when the level of shenanigans reaches a certain limit 😆 Is that a factory accessory or a DIY? 🤔

C'mon now, my story and get to tell it the way I want .... 🤣🤣🤣 Not sure what is more important, chatting with my 85 year old Uncle on the front porch on a spring day telling me the story ..... Or the actual truth to the story. I sure would like some more days with Uncle telling me some stories ....

Here is a photo of the brush guard, IF the computer photo gods allow...

HEET is 99% iso-propyl alcohol and would most likely be useful only if using non-ethanol gasoline. If the tank has ethanol-laced gasoline in it, the ethanol is already absorbing moisture that is in the gas (that is why ethanol-contaminated gasoline is nasty stuff....corrosion city). The amount of ethanol in a few gallons of E10 is far more per volume than what is in the red plastic bottle. It does work well with gas-fired camp stoves, however. Update: Since last fall my TR6 has been stored in a temporary enclosed garage (Harbor Fright) and this spring it has presented a couple of yips which I have wondered might be due to water condensing in the tank because of the outdoor storage. Los Control got me thinking about this, so why not. I added the appropriate ratio of HEET to the tank just in case there was still some moisture in the tank. Yep, a sniff test confirmed HEET is good ol' alcohol (no taste test...). I figured it wouldn't hurt anything to add it since the tank already has E10 in it.

Come on, now, let's not go crazy here. Siphon pump works just fine 🥲

My point was that O.D. cars had final drive ratios in the neighborhood of 4.10 ( some places say 4.30 ) and the speedometer pinion that went with it. Thus no matter what gear you were in the speedometer would read incorrectly. Which is true even if that line was unnecessary ( my bad ). All transmissions that have speedometer gears measure the driveshaft rotation speed. Some exceptions are for example VW Beatles measure left front wheel speed and SAAB 99/900 which have the gear on the differential. You can buy speedometers that measure GPS signals and the are dead on with no connection to the wheels or driveshaft but they are really pricey. What I was trying to get across was that you can correct your speedometer reading with an easy swap of the speedometer pinion gear. If you want an O.D. transmission ( R10 G1 ) you can change the speedo pinion with the one in your old transmission. However if you swap differential carriers to get the ratio you want, you need to score the speedo pinion from that car. There is an exception here in that the 3.54 ratio is usually in an automatic transmission car and that speedometer pinion is not the same design as the manual transmission. Slight changes in tire size can get you closer as well.

Just use a torch to get the plug red hot....that oughta bust the rust loose................. 😲 🤣

That's the plan. Trouble with water is it don't stay in one place while driving and tends to mix with the fuel and run right along with it to the carb. Hence the small bubbles visible in the fuel filter. Only thing that will really stop it is a water fuel separator. Got the filters in today but will wait since I'm going to order the square pipe plug socket set and try to impact the fuel tank drain plug out (very carefully). Joe Lee

Interesting here .... left side looks centered while right is not. Is it possible one of your frame horns is bent? Have you checked bolt hole alignment with your bumper? Just hard to say which side is off. Myself I think I would get the sheet metal lined up and bolted in place. Then figure out which side needs adjusted and how much. But, if one was bent the bumper holes would not line up .... If they do line up .... then both would have to be bent equally? If you raise the front nose up to fix door gaps, will the alignment of frame horns improve? My frame horns have approximately 3/4" space all the way around the horns ... top and sides.

Thanks for the pics @John-T-53

On my truck when I took it apart, there were rubber spacers in the very front bolts for the core support. Adding spacers there, will raise the front and close the gap at top while opening the gap on the bottom. No idea if you have them in place. I have some new 1/4" rubber I cut mine out of, and were about the same as I removed. I also assume you have new rubber cab mounts .... they probably sit a little higher then the old dried out originals. So even if you installed the same rubber spacers up front ... you probably need to add more to match the new cab mounts. Just my best guess assuming you like the way the doors fit other then that. Just a 1/8" washer may fix the gap you show.

It will be interesting to see when you reassemble everything if that slight bend is there for a reason...................perhaps the release lever and pedal arm are slightly offset.......

This past weekend I had a few hours to play around with the truck and I didn't really make any progress with the panel alignment problems. I think I can better articulate the issues now so maybe that will help As a preface, all of the bolts that would allow panel movement are loose. In the attached pictures you can see the front nose is not centered on the frame (as mentioned previously), the drivers side door gap is too small and the passenger side is probably a little large but unfortunately it tapers from top to bottom, getting smaller at the bottom. Something not shown in the pictures are the tops of the front fenders where they align with the middle curve of the door. On both fenders, when the L bracket bolts to the side of the cab (accessed from inside the cab) then fenders are not flush with the door skins. The fenders are recessed an 1/8" to 3/16". It's as if the L brackets need spacers installed. This spot is one of the few where there is no real adjustment other than up/down and forward/back. No in/out movement is allowed for. I would think this means the doors need to be moved inward at the top hinge, but if I do this then the doors don't fit the door openings properly. It seems to me that the fit of the fenders where they meet the doors is the key to getting everything else to fall into place. I believe I understand how to align the fenders up/down and forward/backward but the in/out has me baffled. Tips anyone?!

Just dropped of the clutch adjustment rod at the machine shop to just be straightened and the linkage to be filled and redrilled also ordering tourque bushings