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  2. I added some links to my earlier post above. Just examples not mine.
  3. Today
  4. I make it a habit to record the original and current part numbers on anything like that. Then the next time I need that part I don't have to pull anything first. And sometimes you'll find years later that people can no longer cross the original part number but they can still cross the "current" number you found before. If/when I need tune up parts for my '33, I simply look at my notes to get the current part numbers. I call the local auto supply in the morning and pick them up in the afternoon after their warehouse delivery occurs.
  5. Ken, Exactly right! I guessed on my PCV valve and the results are less than spectacular... When you guess like I did, you get mixed results. Maybe the cost of the PCV James mentioned isn't so bad, can tune for any scenario?
  6. Greg, is correct on parts being specific to the model of distributor. Points and condenser pretty universal, cap and rotor not so much,
  7. High vacuum at idle restricts the flow. Lower vacuum (lower varies by valve application) opens the passage. So, on the road, under load, is when the PCV circuit is most effective. Even with single digit vacuum levels, a lot of air will flow, again dependent on the valve you choose.
  8. The vacuum spec is listed in most PCV makers catalogs, some are noted in the packaging. When I get to that point, I'll check my vacuum at cruise and select appropriately
  9. Whoa, $130.00 for a PCV valve? Interesting concept but not sure I would spend that on a PCV. FWIW, my coolant heated PCV valve on my V10 Excursion is less
  10. My ‘38 is indeed a Canadian built car. It is an earlier release. It shipped with the shorter block. 200 CI. engine It currently has a longer block D24 stamped engine in the car. Rad was moved forward about 2” I believe to accommodate.
  11. Doing a lotsa engines on a stand...big C-Clamp style. C-style is used on all common older engines pretty much...V-8"s , sixes etc. Doing valve work in the car...the smaller compact scissor type. Easier to use in that tight situation.
  12. Not expecting it will be cheap. Take a few years to do.
  13. what you will do with any Hemi....spend lotsa $$$$. Not a cheap engine to rebuild.
  14. So I bought a 354 Hemi for my 1956 Fargo. Nothing has been done to this engine. It ran about 30 years ago and needs to be sleeved. Bore is sitting at .060 right now. It is really dirty. But not seized. Been in garage for that long. Not sure what I will do with it. Frickin I know that.
  15. Adam, That is why I used the wagner PCV it is a two stage PCV with springs that can be changed to "tune" it to most engines at both idle and a highway speeds... James
  16. It looks like white lithium grease which is good for high temperatures. I'll give that a try.
  17. I don't recall but I used whet ever I had on hand.
  18. Is this a Canadian built car? I know in '38 all Canadian cars and trucks started coming with the long block engine. As yours is an early '38 it may have had the shorter 23" engine originally. I am not sure when the longer 25" engine became standard in 1938. Always very easy to pick up an engine for any car from 1938 on as anything fits. I have a flathead from a 1955 3-ton grain truck in my Canadian built 1948 Dodge D25 Club Coupe.
  19. I’m sure this has been covered before but here goes. What made you pick the car you drive? In my case my parents bought a new 52 Coronet 4 door. We had it long enough for me to learn to drive on it in 1978. Just wondering.
  20. Thanks for the link. I looked into after market EPS, but was put off by the cost. The Toyota option looks reasonable if it can be purchased for $100. If you add an aftermarket column, then it might be cost effective to just go with the Uni-steer kit. There was a post on this site about using a GM box that had the same splines & travel as the stock box.
  21. Don, What type of grease did you use on your timing cover and backing plate gaskets? The grease looks white in color.
  22. Nope, normal. Used to see that on almost every engine torn down in the 60s/70s.
  23. Look on ebay, all the parts are available. Probably less that 300 bucks total.
  24. I have one like this:Others also, but this is my favorite for flatheads.
  25. Never thought about electric assist, but others have: https://www.hotrod.com/articles/150-electric-power-steering-junkyard-prius-delivers/ Whew, $1600 will dent the wallet: https://www.unisteer.com/electric-power-steering/improved-electra-steer-ididit-steering-column-kit.html
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