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  2. you read over a few lines if that is what you got out of it all......lol
  3. So what I am getting from this discussion is that I don't have to do anything to the master cylinder at all but I do need to put some kind of 2psi valve on the line that goes to the front disc brakes or am I not reading this right. I am still not sure how to go about getting this done any suggestions or pictures would be of a great benefit
  4. Working really hard to try and make the dream cruise this year. Fingers crossed.
  5. Correcting the record. Visited my Grandpa the other day and asked more details. Recollection of story was not clear only that Mr. Robert's dad, Joseph was involved in the automotive industry. Robert passed away a long while back so no way to reconfirm the specific without more records. However, my grandpa gave me a shaving cup that belonged to our Joseph Frazer (picture below). I pointed out that we had the wrong Joseph in mind. Our Joseph may have been involved in the auto industry, but he wasn't Joseph Washington Frazer 😎. I'm keeping the cup though because it's pretty cool
  6. Today
  7. They will never fund your retirement so just help a fellow enthusiast out with a low price. Now if it's someone looking to resell at a profit that's another story. If the buyer needs them for his project, I'd go $10 to $20 each.
  8. The surge tank is in and plumbed. I still need to install the post filter and finalize the run up to the throttle body, and my Y fitting for the two returns is supposed to come in the mail tomorrow. It was a pretty good day. Now I have to tackle the wiring for the pumps and efi. I can only do so much until the cab is back on but before that it will get finished up past the firewall and into the engine bay area. Doing tons of work, buttoning it up and crossing my fingers it will all function as planned is always fun.
  9. thanks doug/deb. after I hand tighten them together and bolt them to the block, is that when I torque it all up? the last time I did this on a different flathead I did not separate them. easy back on that way. capt den
  10. The wheelcovers are 2nd-series '49 and early 1950.
  11. Yesterday
  12. Jeff, From the description of your installation you did a proper job.When I installed the electric pump on my Lincoln it was to prime the Holley 4 barrel for ease of starting as the mechanical fuel pump was working fine. If I was to install an electric fuel pump today I would probably do as you have done. As I mentioned on another thread, I was on a trip with a few friends years ago and we stopped for lunch,one of them opened the hood of his car and gasoline was visibly "boiling" in the fuel bowl at the carbueretors,(he was driving a 1956 Cadillac with dual quads) It looked like trouble and that probably had some bearing on my decision to use the electric fuel pump solely for priming.With today's gasoline,who knows what the boiling point is,(I'm no expert)...This is a picture of a 1956 Cadillac engine with dual quads...
  13. no..I did not say that...the question was how do I know I need it...answer...by the very change to disc and keeping stock cylinder....I did not address the rears as I probably should have and as justold added, you still need the 10 psi for the rear....in regard to the lower master application you have a stock 10psi built in to master.....as you go to disc this is too much...thus the removal and addition of the 2 for disc and a 10 for the rear fitted inline.... some folks have said that they never did this and all is well....well some may still have a bit of air in their lines that is buffering the pressure...I have no knowledge of each individual application and or methods of bleed....I do know what is technically needed and the reason for it. Each can do as they choose or proceed based on a prior learning curve of the industry.
  14. You still need the 10psi valve on the rear drum brakes .
  15. So Plymouthy - you are saying that if your caliper is lower than the master cylinder then remove the stock 10PSI valve and everything is hunky-doory? I am thinking about putting discs on mine too...although my stock drums work quite good....the only time I feel that discs would be an improvement would be going down a long mountain grade. I have experienced drum brake fade back in the 60's driving a 64 Buick Special, going down a mountain in Chattanooga. Not fun....Solution? Slow down at the top of the grade, put her up in second, and let her hold back going down, use the brakes sparingly........like diesel trucks do now on steep grades. Quite fun, actually........
  16. I have not in fact sent them a bolt yet. I called and talked with them and they said it was not a big deal. But, I suspect that once they saw one that it will be. One thing I have been thinking of having a rod and piston set up done that will clear and that has a design that a modern bolt will clear. I will also look into if there is any meat to cut on the block so that a larger head on the bolt will clear. I suspect that MOPAR did the bolt so they did not have to cast another block. They also would not want to spend the labor to grind a block for clearance. I have just been told today that in August, I may well have to have some serious back surgery. If that comes to pass, I will have to put off the car work until 2020. Between now and summer, I will get the engine down to the short block and take a look at the actual clearance. I used ARP 351C Ford bolts on the 251 that I have been driving. We worked the rod bolt faces to use them. James
  17. Today was surge tank day. I’m new to tig welding but I was confident I could weld a vessel without much trouble. I used a chunk of 2x4 tubing and welding the caps on was easy. The only problem I ran into was the ‘vibrant performance’ brand mild steel weld in hosebarbs I bought were far from mild steel. It makes sense they would use some kind of free machining alloy to make them but where I was making nice airtight welds on the tank body when I hit the bungs with the torch I could see the garbage boiling and sizzling out of them. I wish I had some silicon bronze rod- it probably would have made it an easier job. Instead I just puddled the good steel and gently washed in the edges with it instead of hitting the corner like normal. It took a few trips to the kitchen sink for pressure testing to get the bungs all airtight. Once it stopped having leaks I blew some pressure in it and vicegripped the open hose. When I opened it ten minutes later it said “foomp” so I called it good. The top has an L of plate so I can hang it off the top of the frame and I hung brackets for the lift pump and the efi pump before and after the surge tank so they all line up and have room for a servicable amount of hose. I figure I’ll let the pre and post filters hang inline with the tube. It’s upside down with the paint drying on it in the last pic.
  18. Love the tractor. A pre WWII IH M Farmal. A very popular tractor. Spokes even .
  19. Hmmm. I live near 12 Mile Road and Woodward, halfway between Pontiac and downtown Detroit. Sometimes I get the 47 DeSoto Custom Suburban out, and do the DreamCruise. Not much, cruise from 12 Mile to 11 Mile, and take the local streets home. Sometimes the best time to cruise is the evenings before the official Saturday event. And I might visit the basilica. The National Shrine of the Little Flower Basilica, at 12 Mile and Woodward, is a destination in itself, plus a Friday Night chicken dinner tents at the school, and Saturday activity tents on the church lawn. Contact me if you will be around for the WPC Meet.
  20. Do a google search of wheel beauty rings and you'll get an idea. They are still pretty popular across all makes and models not just mopars. Now if they are original try ebay for pricing options. Joe Lee
  21. I have 4 of these Plymouth wheel covers a guy wants to buy. I need some opinions on what they are worth? Also any information about what year they were offered by Plymouth. Thanks, Frank
  22. I ditched the mechanical pump and run a big 6V Carter electric full time. I like it and it has worked flawlessly for over 4 years in my daily driver 52 B-3-C. When I was building my truck I read a posting here about a member who had a recently rebuilt engine suffer diluted oil seizure because his mechanical pump had a partial failure into the crankcase while on a trip. That episode while extreme really resonated with my way of thinking about these old cars and trucks. After all I was building this truck to be as rock solid reliable as I could. I wanted to eliminate any chance of this happening with my build. The electric pump was mounted very near the tank with a large inline fuel filter just ahead of it. Lack of pre-filtration is the number one cause of failure for this type of pump. I blanked off the original pump mount. I also installed a Holley fuel pressure regulator and another sealed canister filter just ahead of the carb. This set up while not original...... has worked out great. If you are someone who wants to really use your vintage vehicle without constant worry I think this is the way to go. Jeff
  23. Not quoting you...... thats what we used to call it....lol. I wouldn't want a hammer near that new powder coat myself.
  24. number one. the stock valve is about 10PSI and that will create a drag on the calipers and keep the pads against the rotors causing drag, heat and wear. If removed completely there is the chance that the fluid will drain out of the calipers back to the master as the master is vented and will lose such fluid from the vent hole...vent is a small opening in the corner of the stock below the floor master cylinder fill plug....front caliper that are higher than the master should have a 2 PSI check valve installed to prevent the drain and yet be low enough to allow return of the pistons in the caliper....remember, it is the roll of the cut square ring seal in the piston that pulls the piston off the rotor.....
  25. I am putting scarebird disc brakes on my 48 Plymouth coupe and I have read that some guys do nothing with their master cylinder and they work just fine and others say they had to remove the valve to make them work. My question is how do you know if your valve needs to come out or not?
  26. you could swap in a later unit with disc brakes or upgraded drums. Likely donors include ranger explorer, mopar B bodies, early jeep Cherokees not grand, 5 bolt Dakota. there will be some surgery deeded on spring perches and shock mounts but they are doable at home if you have the skills and a good welder.
  27. For those interested in August in Auburn hills I think the Woodward cruise is the same week. All Chrysler corps brand cars and trucks welcomed. The 2019 WPC Club National Meet will be held from August 13-18 in Auburn Hills Michigan in conjunction with the Woodward Dream Cruise. 2019 Annual Meet Info and Registration Form depending on health we might attend.
  28. You don’t need gasket cement. New gaskets will suffice. Hand tighten the manifolds together until you have them bolted to the block. Otherwise you’ll crack something.
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