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  2. I went ahead and put a shut off valve at the outlet, but I guess it doesn't matter and I could have run with the tank air outlet untouched since you are supposed to run it with no load whatever. And I did find a guy on Youtube who was doing his break-in with the outlet completely open with nothing on it. So I ran my AC with the shut-valve open and the drain valve open.
  3. Today
  4. Yeh, I noticed that car on ebay as well, it appears that the pair of rear view mirrors that that maroon Windsor convert uses are either a generic set for that car and other 1940 Mopars or if the specific set for the 1940 Windsor they just have a thinner in profile shape to the base although the length appears correct.........theres also a 1940 Windsor Coupe on ebay but it has no close up pics...........I'll get the molding in Mondays mail....................andyd
  5. That is a new one for me as my Sandborn 60 did not have any break in instructions that I saw and I have used it for 6 years with no trouble
  6. I use a floor jack when I need to drop a tank. Even partly full of gas it works well
  7. Got the tank in with my plates straps and rubber pads .... now for the hard part - getting the filler pipe in (and when I say hard, take into account that I got the tank in myself which was a trick holding it up and bolting it from the top)
  8. JSabah

    Rear shocks

    Got my new KYB shocks today. Much happier with the fit. I put them on but haven’t tightened them up yet.
  9. Thanks Andy, I will give you a call! I noticed this on a Windsor convertible that could be an option too.
  10. For a read from SEMA, I'd like to submit this article. I read this a couple years ago when I was concerned with mounting radial's on 16" lock ring wheel's. It's interesting that the drop center wheels pictured, are cracking or broken at the hub and not the flange. Bias-vs-Radial-Tire-Wheel-Fitment.pdf
  11. I am about to assemble my 1953 218 plymouth engine. I am working on the rear main, I have the new neoprene seal in place and need to put the parting line seals in. Here is the question, when I have the cap gaskets in place they have a tab that extends down toward the neoprene seal, should this be flat, I think it should, should I cut off these tabs? If I don't they will interfere with the neoprene seal. Should I cut these little tabs off? Dave
  12. I think they would just look cool to have them. However, I just realized because I’m using copper/nickel pipes I need to be careful about electrolysis 😕
  13. Perhaps, I could have even used the brush that comes on the end of the foam can. But I wanted to be very cautious. It all worked out great.
  14. I have some old Auto Restoration tapes from 1992 which were put out by Ray and Fred Vagedes, called Classic Car Restoration, Back on Track. I think they made about eight tapes or so. I bought about four of them back in the day. In the first tape they cover how to remove the chassis from the body on a demo 1951 Dodge sedan. There's no need to remove the steering wheel to remove the body. And there's no need to lift the body high either. But they do remove the engine and the dog house (front fenders, radiator, grille, and hood). As some guys already said, you can't remove the steering column from the steering box, so they just removed the three bolts that hold the steering box to the frame. Then they remove all of the body bolts and pads and bag them. Then, they jack up the body from under the trunk floor. They stack up cinder blocks on both sides of the rear wheels and slide a 4X4 lumber under the floor to support the rear body. Then they do the same thing to the cowl. Now the body is off the frame with the steering wheel still in the body. Then, they pull the chassis out from under the body with the rear rolling on the floor jack which is under the differential. Today we would probably use wheel dollies. It looks so easy! They say this is only a temporary set up for the body, so they roll a home made body cart under the body and put some sheets of plywood to even the support and remove the blocks so they can roll the body around with ease.
  15. So if I'm supposed to run it for 30 mins. to seat the rings under no load, I guess I can run it before I put anything in the outlet hole?
  16. They’re probably assuming that you’ve already plumbed up air lines/hoses to the tank, so they suggest removing the drain so that it won’t build up any air pressure during the run-in period.
  17. So I decided to list it just to see what type of interest there would be. Guess I will see. It is on craigslist and on here. Thanks for all the help. When something happens with it and I get a new car I will be sure to be here looking for more advice. Thanks. Ed
  18. View Advert 1950 Plymouth Special Deluxe Project Hello. For sale is a 1950 Plymouth Special Deluxe. Ran strong 15 to 20 years ago. Has been garaged since then. Looks good. Complete car when garaged. Pieces/parts not on the car are in the trunk and back seat. Selling to fund another vehicle, hopefully another 50 Plymouth. Was my dads car so any questions I cant answer he could. Body looks decent. Floor rot on the interior. Some rust in places but all in all a solid car. I have more pictures and can take more. Could only post 5. There are more on Craigslist. Listing link below. New battery, plugs, a few other things. Tried to get her going. Can get more info from a mechanic that looked at it a few times. First time doing this, so no idea what to ask. I am open to offers, reasonable offers. https://cleveland.craigslist.org/pts/6936890974.html Advertiser edrendek7777 Date 07/19/19 Price $1.00 Category Individual Member Classified For Sale Ad  
  19. Time Left: 29 days and 18 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    Hello. For sale is a 1950 Plymouth Special Deluxe. Ran strong 15 to 20 years ago. Has been garaged since then. Looks good. Complete car when garaged. Pieces/parts not on the car are in the trunk and back seat. Selling to fund another vehicle, hopefully another 50 Plymouth. Was my dads car so any questions I cant answer he could. Body looks decent. Floor rot on the interior. Some rust in places but all in all a solid car. I have more pictures and can take more. Could only post 5. There are more on Craigslist. Listing link below. New battery, plugs, a few other things. Tried to get her going. Can get more info from a mechanic that looked at it a few times. First time doing this, so no idea what to ask. I am open to offers, reasonable offers. https://cleveland.craigslist.org/pts/6936890974.html

    $1.00

    - US

  20. I've got my Kobalt AC set up and ready to turn on for the first time. I'm going to break it in for 30 mins. under no load. The booklet says to unscrew the drain valve, but makes no mention of the large open hole in the side called the tank outlet. Do I put some pipe there with a shut off valve, before I do the 30 mins. motor break-in, or do I run it with the tank outlet hole totally open. The booklet says nothing.
  21. Why not consider a high performing and supurbly engineered Chrysler. https://hprints.com/en/item/4648/Chrysler-Six-1925-H-Stoffel-Tour-De-France
  22. Yeah, it is kind of a primitive method they used. I've never used it myself. I guess they run the car just to run out 1/10th of a gallon. that would be driving just about 2 miles or so. Yes, I hope Youtube keeps these filmstrips up and not ban them. good luck with your 48 Windsor. Great car! My first car was a 1950 Windsor club coupe.
  23. Frank, I'm not familiar with the full flow filter, only seen the Deval adapter you referenced, does this replace the cover on the oil pump? If that is the case an adapter could probably be fabricated for a remote filter mount. Below is an adapter I built for a Continental O-200 that had no oil cooler. The adapter is fabbed out of 1/2" 6061, drilled and tapped for AN-6 fittings so 3/8" stainless braided hoses could be plumbed to a full flow remote cooler. It seems to me a similar adapter could be built out of steel using the pump cover as a template that mounts the same way as the Deval and accommodates hoses for a full-flow filter mount. Is there a reason this wouldn't work? The adapter wouldn't be difficult to fabricate for someone with good shop skills.
  24. Never know in Texas... clean ‘er up a bit and go pickup chicks. 🤣
  25. Yesterday
  26. Trav..........apologies for the delay in getting back.........I checked the various moldings I have and I have a piece of chrome/stainless molding that is I think from a 1940 Plymouth tho' am not 100% certain......but its 18mm or 3/4" in width, 46 inches long.........it doesn't have the one or two horizontal pressings that your moldings appear to have, it is just a sort of half round shape......but it maybe able to be used to make the correct shape or get by until the right piece is found..............it may have come from the hood but I can't recall, the piece has some warping and is really not much good except there is more than enough that is straight and undamaged to use to make a piece for the cowl...........its yours if you want it, just send your address and I'll send it down......or call me on 02 66 425963 or email scaleautomobilia@hotkey.net.au ......regards, Andy Douglas
  27. I wonder if they make an adapter for those members who have Full Flow oil filtration on some 251s and 265s? Not this DeVal jobbie.....although it is well executed. I would rather have 1 like Sam's......
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