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  2. I think you need to be concerned about rpm. These old flatheads will run forever, but not at high rpm for long. Think factory says 3600 tops, that is for short burst not for cruising all day. As others suggested above, OD transmission or a gear swap in the rear end ... goal is to keep the engine rpm down to a comfortable level.
  3. Squirebill that sounds good. I will take a look at that first. I do have another fuel pump coming but I can see if that a problem also.
  4. That sounds reasonable. I have painted them in the past, they just did not look right to me. This time around, and for a driver ... I cleaned it with some windex and called it a day. Then I looked at the starter bolts, screamed like a little girl and ran away! I did order a starter wrench from ebay yesterday I apologize to PA for getting off in the weeds in his thread. Can I ask a question while I have this photo up? When I bought the truck, the genny wires were disconnected and needed repair, I do not know which post is Arm or field. I promise to buy a motors or chiltons manual soon, can someone tell me which post is Arm from the photo? I assume they are somewhat standard wiring config, and I cant tell from the wiring diagram floating around the forum.
  5. Quickjack 5000slx is awesome. Costco has them on sale for $1000. Versatile and compact. Love mine!
  6. if a loud busy sounding engine is a bother to you when driving at speed...turn down the hearing aide and press down on the accelerator...
  7. I have a 48 convertible. We and the kids take it once a week or two out for ice cream or whatever and have a ball. Very relaxing and it'll do 55 comfortably. Even faster if i choose but no need really. I do have a od that i haven't got around to installing but lookimg forward to it. At any rate if you like the style you wont regret buying one.
  8. the lighter lower cost scissors jack will work for the lighter smaller cars and in a facility where you have a low ceiling. I prefer the four post lifts where you can roll these puppies around on the caster set. I have had mine for years and it has allowed me to do a considerable amount of work mechanically, welding and body prep. Again though, ceiling height is an issue. A guy I know has one on a slab and keeps it out of doors with a canopy over it and a weather tight box for the power unit. I am currently overhauling a large commercial four post lift to go inside the shop and will move my current smaller lift to a pad and canopy and slowly close it in as I discover my work needs. Want it out there to get welding and body work out of my main building...it will meld in with my barn when complete.
  9. Stuff seems to follow me home. Currently working on a deal for another truck bed....
  10. Recently came into a bit of money (sold the hunting camp) and looking to make my vehicle maintenance tasks a little easier. Currently use a small SUV service jack and jack-stands to get the vehicle up to work on the brakes and get under the vehicle. Too old and too fat for the constant getting up and down to place the jack, place the stand, then next wheel, place the jack, place the stand, etc,etc. Then still have to sit down on floor or on knees since not quite high enough to sit on rolling stool. Looking for something easier and quicker. Thought about a two post frame lift but not sure the garage floor is thick enough or properly re-barred for it. Also may be looking for something a little more portable in case wanted to work in the driveway instead of the garage. So I thought I'd put it out to you guys for your recommendations. What do you use? At this point I am leaning to the Quickjack 5000. I like the idea that I could lift one side only. Interested in what you guys use and what you would change if you could. Regards
  11. grab it...at that price you will feel you should be here.....
  12. Today
  13. You might try Andy Bernbaums. https://www.oldmoparts.com/
  14. Not to nitpick or nag in any manner but if you do not have a repair manual for you car getting one will be an asset for when working the front suspension. Removal of the front spring is explained there also and in a manner so to provide you and the car a level of safety. The tips and tools mentioned in the section will provide you with the specs and methods to go about a complete proper build.
  15. We are getting ready to rebuild the front suspension on our '40 Dodge. The car is supported on jack stands and the shocks and outer tie rod ends have been removed. What's the safest way to remove the remaining parts. I'm concerned that the spring may fly out.
  16. That's why I'm asking the people that know..🙂
  17. Morning everyone, so I am super close to getting my 50 back on the road, but hit a snag. I got the brake rebuild kit and rear drums from Kanter, but it did not include 2 things that I am striking out in finding. I need rivets for the rear drums which Kanter does not have. They told me to try Autozone or NAPA but they do not seem to have them either. Anyone have any ideas where to get these? I also need a return spring for the master cylinder to the brake pedal. Another part that I figured that Kanter would have but they do not, and neither does the auto parts stores... Any help or a direction for me to be steered in would be appreciated. Thanks. Ed
  18. So I have two different types of fuel pumps that I use. One type has a pump arm that is pretty much straight out of the pump and rubs on the bottom of the camshaft lobe at about the six o'clock position. The second type has a pump arm that comes out of the pump and then makes a hard upward turn and would rub on the side of the camshaft lobe at about the nine o'clock position. If your fuel pump is of the second type and you have 2 or 3 gaskets the pump may be set back too far from the camshaft and not getting a full stroke from the lobe. May account for the fuel starving when running. Worth a check.
  19. View Advert Dodge Truck Engine (1941-1947) W-Series Seeking buyer for nearly complete engine; have had for many years and have no use for the engine - I am sure someone will have good use for this engine! Used, original "as is" non-running 1941-1947 Dodge W-Series truck engine Engine: T118: straight-six flathead, 25" head, 236 cu in, 104 HP, rated for 1-ton and 1 1/2 ton trucks Nearly complete engine with original transmission, bell housing with pedals/linkage, clutch, hand brake and etc. Engine used for Dodge W-Series Trucks (closed cab, stake, and platform): WF, WFA, WFX, WFAX, 20-22, 30-34, 36 Local pick-up; however, open to negotiating other shipping arrangements with pre-payment in cash for engine and shipping Cash sale!! Advertiser Craig1936D2 Date 08/20/19 Price $350.00 Category Individual Member Classified For Sale Ad  
  20. Time Left: 29 days and 21 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    Seeking buyer for nearly complete engine; have had for many years and have no use for the engine - I am sure someone will have good use for this engine! Used, original "as is" non-running 1941-1947 Dodge W-Series truck engine Engine: T118: straight-six flathead, 25" head, 236 cu in, 104 HP, rated for 1-ton and 1 1/2 ton trucks Nearly complete engine with original transmission, bell housing with pedals/linkage, clutch, hand brake and etc. Engine used for Dodge W-Series Trucks (closed cab, stake, and platform): WF, WFA, WFX, WFAX, 20-22, 30-34, 36 Local pick-up; however, open to negotiating other shipping arrangements with pre-payment in cash for engine and shipping Cash sale!!

    $350.00

    Brighton, Michigan - US

  21. my red tags (geni, starter) got repopped from a guy in POLAND!
  22. What I have planned for the boy added above.
  23. Yep, I looked at them. Not impressed with the visual quality. Very rough and porous castings in my opinion. Our original is in very good shape and the spare is too. Glad to have them.
  24. I’ve converted several 6volt cars to 12volt and I always just leave the starter as is. Never had an issue.
  25. Window crank mechanism is available at thisolecoupe.com for $425.
  26. If you get them with aluminum necks like these then you can heat the necks to soften them and then "bend" them in or out as needed to get a little more custom fit in terms of how they function on your car. That's what I did on my old 34 Hudson.
  27. On both the crankshaft and the flywheel be them 4-6-or 8 bolt one hole is drilled slightly "off" of the others. So the flywheel will only bolt on one way. It may take a few tries to find the right combination. Once you find the right combination mark them as pictured below.
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