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I'm a firm believer in using spray paint where it actually is needed ..... I use it often all the time ..... as far as epoxy appliance paint ..... nothing better or worse then straight up spray paint. I have used it for touch up paint on the wife white car ..... I see no sign it is better or worse then other spray cans .... just has a fancy name.

Oh, as there are black appliances, I thought it came in black.

Easier to see rust, later on? 😂😉

Thanks. Are you sure that's OEM, though? The reason I ask is because your distributor is upside-down (or did they change the setup on later models? 🤨) Have you had a chance to investigate the fuel leak any further? What if you put a screw with Teflon tape into that corner hole, is the gas still accumulating over there?

I admit to being a odd bird .... yes I have a a spray can of epoxy white ..... I actually use it for touch up on the washer/dryer in the garage. I cant even imagine using it for the floors of my car ...... I say anything is better then nothing ..... just not my first or 10th choice. Nothing wrong with using it, just nothing I would set out intentionally to use in my vehicle .... Just white paint .... who paints their floors white?

All Mopar flat sixes (and 8's) can from the factory with Valve seats (hardened). NO need to change anything but maybe timing if you have been running a higher octane gas. They have No problem running non leaded gas- never did! 😁 DJ

I would like to update my flat head six engine 1947 to a modern engine with gas without lead. I have heard that it is necessary to change the valve seats to more modern ones that resist modern gas with high octane and without lead. I would like to know your opinion on this subject because the original valve seats in my car are built into the block. Thank you

Cannot say about floor pan usage but on steering wheels it had held up exceptionally! Flexing too much may cause issues?, but our steer wheels flex a lot, so?. They sell an off white that is somewhat close to the original off white factory used. DJ

That is correct.

Here are some pics of the vacuum advance line routing.

I was in Menard's and saw that Rustoleum sells an oil-based appliance epoxy. I wonder how that would be for floor pans, etc?

I will agree with everyone ...... pull the switch in and out a zillion times to clean the contacts ...... I actually took my switch apart and cleaned it mechanically then greased it .... yanking it in and out many times will get the same outcome ..... same issue with my stomp starter .... not use it for awhile and it gets corrosion and fails to work .... stomp on it many times and it works again. Same thing with a bad dimmer switch, it will cause many issues if it is bad ..... I'm not convinced it will improve with stomping on it ..... If it goes bad it will be a issue.

My P15 had developed a habit of occasionally going dark between high-beam and low-beam switching which made me wonder if the switch was going to totally die soon. A really dark road and the proximity of deer meant the car was more likely to pull this little trick. I replaced the dimmer switch and now the lights are reliable. I was pleased to see Rock Auto carries the switch in the Standard brand which is usually a good bet for aftermarket. I had to replace the old bullet connectors on the harness with ring terminals but that was a minor blip to get a new switch. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=445771&cc=1486874&pt=4340&jsn=390

I thought you went east with Paul and you both fell in the river. 🙂

Pull and push the headlight switch lots. Terminals can get dirty. I had the same problem and it cleared up.

The dimmer switch might have corrosion on the contact points. Press the dimmer switch several times to clean the contacts. Check the fuse for the light switch might be blown. Go to the headlight junction block and use a test lamp to see if you have current flowing to the connection block. If you have power to this section then your lights might be toast. Pull a headlight bulb disconnect the wire connecter then test with a 6 volt battery charger to see if they light up. If they light up then check each connecter at the base of the bulb to see if you have current flowing to the socket. Also could be a grounding issue or maybe the bulbs are bad. Just basic diagnostic procedures. Rich hartung desoto1939@aol.com

I had to rejoin as I could never get through to the admin asking why my security question kept repeating when I answer the question. Pretty easy to know the mascot of my HS. Anyway, drug out the 47 Dodge 3 window from winter storage and my headlights no longer work. Tail lights and blinkers work fine. Any tips on what to check first? Switch, breaker or start at the head lights and work my way back?

Poly engine 1955 or newer since it has the water jacket in the front of each head. Locate the engine number stamped on the block as PA said it should be on the block rail in front of the oil fill tube. I attached a link to help once you have the numbers. EarlyHemi and related Poly Engine ID codes – Quality Engineered Components

Look for the engine number stamped on the block. You should find it next to the oil fill tube at the top of the engine, behind the water pump. Still at that I understand there are three engine possibilites

Look for the serial number, around the block, that should give you the necessary info. This looks like a Polyspherical Head V8.

I am inheriting my Great Grandfather's 1955 Dodge C1-C8-116 this summer and I am just getting all my info together so when it comes to work and parts I have the best info that I can have. I know the truck has a V8 but I cannot find how to identify which engine it is exactly. I am guessing it is a 241ci Poly instead of the Hemi, just based on pictures that I could find. Can any of you identify it by this picture and that the tag says 125HP at 4000RPM and 145HP at 4400RPM(ignore the dirtiness)? I can get other info if needed, but pretty sure this is what would be needed. Thanks for the help!

I was under impression that the carb was leaking from the gasket and Mark removed the top to investigate further 🤔

I have never left a carb on the engine with the top off with gas in it. Wonder if this would happen on other similar carbs left in the same situation.

Thank you for that note. I only have the PDF scan from the Plymouth parts manual I mentioned, and it is not searchable. Yesterday I looked through all of the pages of the section titled Numerical Index, that shows the match-up for part numbers, page numbers, & part type codes (pages 444 - 482, with 4 column on each page) The photo on page 330 in the Body section indicates the Part Type Code. This list is organized per the Part number, but the PDF scan is not very clear, and I didn't find the Part Type Code. So I don't have the part number information for the Plymouth. But while I do not have my 49 P15 2-door here for me to look at it directly and make a 'real world comparison" (would also have to remove the arm rest from the car, to see the little bit of the back side that is exposed on the 4-door P15), the shape of the arm rests appear to be identical in the few photos I have of that area of the interior. So at least in respect to the P15s, I find it difficult to believe that they would have chosen to not use that very small bit of upholstery material on the 2-doors as well as the 4-doors, forcing them to have completely separate inventory supplies. (That piece of material is 5" wide by 13" in length. And they would have still had to use some type of fabric there anyway, unless the arm rest frame was also different. That just doesn't seem like an efficient manufacturing model to me - and my business is in manufacturing. Also, regarding conservation of fabric, along the back and bottom of the arm rest, where there is a need to be able to stretch it tight, there is around 2 inches of excess fabric.) But of course, as you said, I am talking about the P15, and you are talking about the 50 Dodge, so the case might be completely different. I WOULD be interested in seeing that page out of your Dodge Parts book, if you happen to have a scanner. (Or, if your Dodge book is available here in PDF format - the name of the book, and the page number where this information appears. Thanks.)

SURVIVOR: saw this Dodge between Lake Graham and Newcastle