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  2. RobertKB

    Why are parts crap???

    I often find the old rusty stuff works the best. Give it a clean, install, and good to go. Sometimes gotta relace and I prefer NOS or NROS made in Canada or US. Sometimes have to go new and then it's a crapshoot.
  3. If your cardboard kick panels are ratty and warped like mine were, a solution is to leave them off and expose some of the factory stamping for an industrial look. It also squeezes a little more 'virtual' space out of a naturally narrow cab. I thought creating pockets within and displaying/storing vintage maps would be cool. Some of the vertical painted sheetmetal was added to correspond/align with the two stamped recesses below it. I think this concept will work better if some or all of your floor is exposed. Ever buy a house and peel back the carpet to find beautiful 1-1/2" oak plank below? That's what I felt when I removed the previous owner's carpet from this truck. No way was I not going to expose the beautiful bones of these trucks by recovering it.
  4. RobertKB

    Why are parts crap???

    Guess I am lucky. Live in a city of 100,000 and there is one radiator shop that will work on old radiators. His bread and butter is modern stuff but he has old cars and loves repairing or recoring old rads. He has done several for me. Always done quickly and for a price that makes you feel you stole it. Hate to think what happens when he retires. Not a lot of old time craftsmen left out there.
  5. kendall

    Familiar territory

    I filled the many holes in the firewall so I can't inspect for differences in pre and postwar trucks but I'm wondering if there are differences in seat pedestals, hatch dimensions, bracket locations or other clues to decipher whether the cab is pre or postwar. I have the Shop manual for 47 and every corresponding piece of the truck matches the manual. Also the engine # says the 230 c.i.d.@102 h.p. is the motor that came with the truck new. Maybe just the dash is prewar. The welds sure look factory but then again, an ape with a cigarette welds better than me.I just inspected the dash welds again and they are not as good as I originally thought. Plus I found some welding flash not noticed before. Must be a prewar dash in a postwar cab.
  6. Today
  7. knuckleharley

    Why are parts crap???

    Guys,I ain't trying to rub it in and I even hate to admit it,but this thread has really cheered me up. Here I was thinking it was just me.
  8. thebeebe5

    Why are parts crap???

    I get it. Got a new replacement front motor mount that is most certainly made overseas. It’s too wide by almost 1/4”.... tomorrow I’ll cut it in half and weld the top and bottom plates to the proper width. I’d send it back, but I got it 9 months ago thinking my rebuild would go faster. What a HOOT. I should know by now I should just double my completion estimates for both time and money....
  9. thebeebe5

    1939 business coupe build

    I like it. 👍
  10. Niel Hoback

    1939 business coupe build

    It looks pretty nice to me.
  11. kendall

    Familiar territory

    Just searched PowerWagon dasheboards from war production (43,44, & 45) thinking that the waterfall was continued up to1946 to give the 'factory n.o.s. theory some credence. But it looks like even the 43 'PW's have the flat panel below the short waterfall. Also if they were continually building dashboards during the war, they wouldn't have any prewar dashes to unload in the public's trucks. So Merle is probably correct,.............................Although I will NEVER admit I've fallen in love with a "FRANKENDODGE!"
  12. Young Ed

    brake fluid pressure

    Did you mess with the pedal freeplay? Lack of pedal freeplay could cause what you described.
  13. thebelvedereman

    1939 business coupe build

    yeah once I put the new wheels and tires on, put the Chrome back on, then unmask everything it might look different, I'm just not used to the color, it's kind of like a pastel color and I've never had anything like that on a car before, I'll see what it looks like when I wake up in the morning
  14. austinsailor

    Why are parts crap???

    Only NOS parts won't save you! I just installed the new, NOS, still in the box headlight switch in my B1B. The circuit breaker on it was open, didn't work. Ended up taking the rusty one off the trash original switch to get going. The difference here was that the seller wouldn't know it was bad. The seller of that batter box cover, however, could easily see it was crap. Which of these breakers would you expect to be good?
  15. Los_Control

    Molly Time!

    Been awhile since posted, been busy with the move .... just imagine everything you own is packed into a dodge caravan, you move into a empty 1200 sq ft house. We needed to buy everything, refrigerator, furniture, bed & dressers, dishes .... first we had to buy a truck to haul the goods home. We are in a small rural town and I love it, to buy a decent truck at a decent price, had to drive 4 hours one way to Dallas. Pulled in at a rest area on the way home, it was dark and would not start again .... left it and drove the 2.5 hours home and then back again 2.5 hours to the rest area in the morning to fix it, Just a loose battery connection and easy fix, but just buying a truck turned into a 2 day adventure I really miss not having molly near by, I worry that 1700 miles separation, can cause giving up on the project and walking away.. Being disabled slows things down for sure, I can do everything, just takes 3 times longer then most and then have to rest for 3 days before starting a new project. Wife and I shrug it off, we say we got the rest of our lives to get er done. So all is going awesome! Bought a old chevy, kept looking for a low mile truck for a decent price, we needed something fast so we could get a fridge and furniture etc... Everybody wanted a million dollars for their truck with 200k+ miles. So I saw this 1991 chevy with 415k miles on the clock for $2k ... 4 hours drive away ... it spoke to me and I knew it was the one. I was told the motor has 50k on it, and runs like it could be true, I know the 5 speed transmission is not a 1991 model, the rear end is tight and quiet ... I think it all has been changed, just a matter of maintenance and keep it up. No issue jumping in it and driving 2k miles to WA today. AC needs fixed, cruise control needs a new cable, exhaust is a typical Texas teenager rig and louder then f**k, it has after market bucket seats and I hate them, like sitting in a go cart. So I have some work before I go over to pick up molly and drag her back on a tow dolly. Just wanted to post and say I am trying to stay focused, got a plan and slowly working towards it. Post a couple pics, garage / work shop ... old garages are to small to hold a car. I got the work bench a long ways, and was the handicap ramp to the front door when we bought the place. Now is time for wiring before I close the walls up. Not much but remember I had nothing and just now rebuilding. The trailer, I tried to talk myself out of it ... guy wanted $200 for it and I just had to drag it home. No idea what year it is, if it had fenders it would be a better clue. I call the chevy, "molly hauler" Sure is a fun truck to drive, 350/5 speed 1/2 ton with tall gears ... think it will be around for a long time to come, looking forward to several long trips out and about the US. Once the exhaust and ac is cured.
  16. insaneradio

    1949 Plymouth Business Coupe

    I could not agree more!!
  17. lonejacklarry

    512 cid C series on Dakota chassis- build thread

    I can't think of a single state that would not look for the number on a frame in a licensing situation. If you get it licensed before you cut up the frame, think of the next owner that might have to make it available for inspection.
  18. insaneradio

    1939 business coupe build

    Once you pull tape it will improve immeasurably!
  19. Dodgeb4ya

    Why are parts crap???

    I only buy factory NOS or really nice used parts. Takes awhile but worth it. I don't trust any after market parts as they always are not 100% correct fit or work like factory OE parts. I do have the last Seattle radiator guy who will fix old radiators properly to exact like stock condition but the last one cost me $1700.00 for my truck💯! To me I'll pay the money for good parts and good work.... never for cheap Chinese crap!
  20. wisconsinjimmy

    Dash Gauges

    Thank you
  21. Merle Coggins

    Familiar territory

    Maybe someone swapped cabs somewhere along the way...
  22. Flatie46

    Why are parts crap???

    Austin I and most everyone feels the same way you do and prob most have vented just like you have at some point. I really, really hate to see Made in China or Taiwan on parts that I've bought. I will and do pay more to avoid this because I have never ever seen reasonable quality when this has been on the box. Often even parts made in the US are substandard in some way. These old Mopars were engineered and built with quality parts. It's a darn shame most of the stuff offered for them is half the quality of the original or less. To get good parts you really have to jump through hoops and scrutinize every last detail.
  23. thebelvedereman

    1939 business coupe build

    Okay I've just painted the ugliest paint job in the history of paint, I started not to like it as soon as I started putting it on, but for some reason I just didn't stop, hopefully it darkens up a bit once it dries, but I'm pretty sure that I'm stripping it back down to bare metal and starting over again
  24. DJ194950

    Why are parts crap???

    A friend of mines 47Ply. Bus. Cpe. was slowly having slow crank start issues. Testing showed either the battery or the starter was the culprit. Both were tested and turned out the battery ( a smaller but high crank output battery, not cheap, age is unknown ) was now scrap. He spent the money for a new 12 volt Ultima battery (200.00) as the car was already 12v. conversion done when purchased. Looked closely yesterday at the label on the top of the new battery. A Johnson Controls label was there. They are a world wide conglomerate of many types of products. Just the original designer/manufacturer sold out. Made in Mexico now. Is the new owner, country of origin up to the previous reputation of quality?? Working very good for now, only a two year warranty. Time will tell. DJ
  25. allbizz49

    Why are parts crap???

    PRC.....
  26. Yesterday
  27. Desotodav

    1954 Starter Motor

    It's a pity you weren't here in Brisbane KB as I have a great Auto Electrician just around the corner from my place who is really good with old cars. I had him repair all of the electricals for my 53 truck recently, and it turned out that I had issues with the old starter motor. As luck would have it... it turned out that I had a compatible spare starter motor in my shed anyway. He suggested that they used pretty much the same starters on all of the Oz Dodge vehicles around that era and that they were a Lucas branded M45. I have attached a couple of pics of the one which he fixed for my truck. I could call him and see if he has some reference numbers in his manuals for you if you don't have an 'old school' Auto Elec there in Adelaide somewhere. Do you have similar numbers stamped on your old starter motor?
  28. mechresto

    Manifold Gaskets

    Since you've covered the ign fault, and it's now holding steady spark..... You're not going to like the next part.... There's only one more thing that's going to cause both symptoms you describe. No idle situation w/o choke and a fast fluttering vacuum. The valves are leaking or mis-adjusted, or too loose in the guides, from what you've said all things point there. It could be valve timing, however, the ability to achive high rpm smoothly negates that almost 100%. A head gasket leak on adjacent cylinders will show as a slow pulsing of the needle as those try to fire. I'll dig up the vac gage testing chart for you. It will explain in detail.
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