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  2. or transfer the ring gears?
  3. Switch is dumb making one power in makes the other power out when the brake pedal is pushed. You can abondon the stock power wire in place but tape it off so you don't get any unwanted sparking as it will still be hot when disconnected.
  4. by far smaller than the later cranks rods....1.9365-1.9375 mains....2.249-2.250 end play for radius check on rod journal....006-.011
  5. have you inspected the frame for damage by checking for shift of the wheelbase front to rear and compared left to right for equal, are your rear components also in good state or repair/service. check your frame by means of marks on the floor using a plump bob on a level floor for being bent. Specification are given in the manual for the frame, the 54 model has gauge holes to assist with the precise measurements...
  6. Can anyone direct me to a source for some crankshaft journal specs for a '37 201cid motor? Trying to get a rough idea of where this crank is in its current state and get some bearings on the way so we can spec the grind on the crank. Thanks!
  7. get the crank ground to .010 under...should be good to go GIVEN there are no scores deeper than this cleanup will correct and the other aspects are within specs
  8. I went tubeless with my Diamondback radials over 7 years ago. Not even a slow leak.
  9. Maybe you can take the 146 tooth flywheel to a machine shop and have drilled and tapped for a 11" clutch setup that you already have. I needed to go the other way-had flywheel that was drilled for 11"clutch and wanted to use the 10" I already had. Cost was $40 for the work- 1 hr. minimum shop charge was $40, so it took 1 hr. or less to do. Worth a look. DJ
  10. Long story short, my 1954 Royal wanders on the freeway and at somewhat moderate speeds. I have power steering, so effort is not necessarily a concern. Has anybody adjusted their caster on their car, and if so, how is it done? I've searched, but haven't really found an answer. I also checked my manual, but it said caster cannot be adjusted. Thanks, Nick
  11. Today
  12. Crank's a bit out of speck. Of course it's out of round and tapered too...
  13. Two years ago I bought Coker WWW radials and had them mounted on my stock rims with no tubes. They have held air since. Only one rim gave me a little trouble, it had an elongated opening for the stem and was tough to seal.
  14. which one to power...the input side of the switch...which is either terminal as long as the other terminal is the output...
  15. Referring to the wires off the breaklight switch
  16. Before you mount them with tubes, check the inside of the tires to make sure there are no mylar bar code stickers left in the tire. They are typically on the side wall area. If left over time chaff the tubes eventually leading to holes and flat tires. This has happened to a couple members of this forum and several other folks I have spoken with. Cocker does not mention this in their mounting instructions and takes no responsibility for any failures leaving them in may cause. I also remember from having tubed tires mounted the installer using baby powder or cornstarch as a buffer to prevent stiction between tireand tube. Probably more of a concern with radials as they by design have more side wall flex and sidewall movement than bias ply tires. Good luck with your decision.
  17. Rich, I hope both of us are driving our 39s in 15 years. I'm 71 and have no plans for a rocking chair. Have a good weekend. Mike
  18. I just bought new Coker WWW. They recommend tubes. This is the one that they recommended for my 16" radials.
  19. Please tell me what brand name rods you use, I would like to buy some stock in that company before you start welding..
  20. Mrtimer: I have my 39 Desoto insured with Grundy Worldwide and the car is valued at 20K I only pay $160 for the entire year and the car is insured at the stated value. If your car is insuded via the regular carrier then if you have anaccident then the carrier can claim depreciation on the car and if the car is totaled then they also deduct for depreciation. Contact one of the regular antique car Ins carriers and you might get a better price and coverage. Right now you then are paying 280 a year, remember that you car does not have to be a show car. My 39 desoto is a driver and Grundy does not have any mileage limitations, ecept that the car must be garaged. The $160 is for full coverage liability and comprehension and collision. Rich Hartung Cell 484-431-8157
  21. Got it. Used 1/4" tooling stock with a hook fashioned at one end and a 1/2" 20 thread nut of slide hammer use. Picked a lot out with a magnet as well. I'll weld it up for re-use.
  22. Mike: Yes it was very nice of travis to donate the tools. I have been collecting the various miller tools to support my 39 Desoto over the years. I do not have every tool but have acquired some of the more hard to find items. I am always looking for the miller tools and if anyone has duplicates or if they are getting out of the antique car hobby I am always interested in their collection. Someday in the future yes I will get ready to sell my 39 Desoto and then i will post on the forum what is up for sale but tht is still a long way in the future. Since i am 67 hope to still be driving the car for another 15 years. Rich Hartung
  23. Since you are going with Coker I would suggest that you call them directly and talk with them. Since they are the ones that know their tires and the new radial style they would be better at giving you the correct answer. Be safe and a call is alot safer than relying on input from the forum members. There also might be a specific tube that is used with radials vs the old style tube that was used with bis ply tires. Rich Hartung
  24. I'm finally getting around to putting tires on my 48 Windsor. As much as I hate to spend the $, I'm about to break for Coker wide white radials. One of the tire guys said I should put tubes in the new tires. I'm running stock rims. The 40 year old tires are 710 x 15 Allstate Sears . I believe it came out with 760 x 15. Do I need to put tubes in radials.?? Thought I read somewhere that isn't recommended. I'm looking 225 75 25 according to the conversion charts. I know theres a lot of different opinions on width, sizes, brands. Just wondering about the tube thing. Thanks Tom B
  25. You have already put a lot of work into the 56 and in my opinion it's a much better looking truck than the earlier models. Stick with it and soon you will be on the road! The 49 might look like a good plan since it runs, but it might also have how many other problems you don't know about? The photo makes it look a bit rough in comparison to the truck you already have. Lastly, your 56 already has a V8 in it. The 49 will be going back to the flathead L6. If you plan on doing a lot of freeway or highway driving, the V8 should be a much more pleasant experience. I will be proving that theory to myself hopefully very soon!
  26. I guess so on the trail of posts! Posting from phone is not so good! I have a 360 and transmission ! I found a flat head six motor with standard trans for sale, wondering if motor will bolt up to my trans! I am all mopar but open to what works!!
  27. Got that already PA.... It's safely out of the block. I can see some leftovers of the water tube. Trying to pick them out now....
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