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  2. All Mopar 53-54 6 cyl. cars fit. No suburbans,wagons, 8 pass. sedans,sierra, savoy. This is from a Hollander interchange manual. Classic edition. Hope that helps your search for used. Also do Tanks,Inc. may have something thing that fits. They are not $400 , but do they carry them?? Check online. DJ
  3. Hi everyone. I'm wondering if anyone has used a different gas tank other than the stock tank. 1953 Dodge Coronet gas tanks are hard to find and can't spend 400 for a new one at the moment but was wondering if some of the 48-52 Dodge tanks or 55 and older would work.
  4. Man that change is a lot of work-possibly. Call Tennessee clutch and brake for a price quote for their rebuilding services. If you find it to be as cheap as I did, you may want to reconsider and use the original parts? I had them rebuild a clutch pressure plate, reline the clutch plate and supply a new throw out bearing and a plastic clutch alignment tool and ship it back. Forgot shortly later they also relined 2 emergency brake bands for me, again quite reasonable. They had to have done the rebuild work they same day they received the parts and shipped it also because it was only 3 days after they received my parts that I got them back!! Oh, I live in Ca. The price was unbelievable to me, and work was first class! That was about 7 years ago so that is why I said to give them a call. I also believe I told them I was on this forum and would post my results on the forum. Did it help? Can't say but they also sent a free t-shirt of theirs, so maybe? 😊 DJ
  5. Try Permatex High Performance Thread Sealant pn 56521 on fasteners that penetrate the water jacket. I had good success using this on a timing cover bolt that penetrated into the water jacket on a 3800 v6. I had previously tried some of the silicone products without success, but the permatex thread sealant did the trick.
  6. Today
  7. Looking for suggestions for a really good head bolt thread sealant. I'm considering the following Permatex products: 1. Aviation Form a Gasket 2. Pipe Joint Compound 3. Indian Head Thread Sealant 4. Ultra Black Gasket Maker Other ideas that might be better?
  8. I know nothing ... what I think I know .... pull the distributor out and take it with you. See if you cant lube it up and maybe replace the ground wire if needed. Make sure the vacuum advance is working and free. Just general maintenance. I pulled my dizzy, took it to the local parts house ... "Non Napa" They looked up on their computer for the right set of points, they then looked at the model number and looked for a set of points. They had the right set of points on the shelf, but compared to mine they were backwards and could not work. And I am only saying, as it is and only yard driving my truck, my points work fine. Is possible maybe someone swapped dizzy parts and created one out of two that worked for them at the time. I honestly would not want to work on the distributor with it installed ... maybe if I was broke down on side of road would work on it.
  9. Small world, Possibly the same Murray Noel that lived in Saanich, B.C. on Vancouver Island and graduated from the same High School as I did around that time..
  10. Hi, I normally follow the Pilothouse side of this forum as I have a 1951 Dodge B3B. When I bought the truck 7 years ago it had 2 Dodge wheel covers and 2 Plymouth wheel covers. After some research on the forum recently, I discovers a link to hubcaps.com where I was able to locate wheel covers that match my two current Dodge ones. As the two purchased covers are due to arrive in a few days, so I wanted to locate a home for the Plymouth covers. I finally thought to offer them up on this forum. Finally I know the wheel cover probably need not come on my truck, What did it come on? Bill
  11. unless you are gonna lick 'em! 😛
  12. Cool! I like that nice, slow, unconcerned gait that moose have.
  13. Below are the photos of the installation. I have no connection to the guys who sell the PCV. I would go read over their site real well as they have the engineering on the subject covered well. It is expensive, you bet. But, if you have ever been on a road trip and had a PCV fail and start sucking oil...I figured I was better off spending the $130 plus a rebuild kit and tossing that in my travel parts bag. The thing is working MUCH better then when I tried the "stock" PCV which I had from an industrial engine. It worked like crap. James. PS. I do not show it the photo but you need a filtered oil filler cap that can allow a lot of air to enter the crankcase.
  14. Congrats on the home purchase! Like many on here - I know the home prices out there for that area are way higher than around where I call home. I still find it amazing/scary when I hear some of the prices. You could buy my home property twice over for what you paid and still have money left over..... and it includes a metal shop building the size of your lot. The disparity just blows my mind. I also really love the idea of the Jeep drivetrain swap. I have been talking to a friend about something similar with a car that he owns. He loves jeeps and has tons of parts.... and the car currently has a sad, poor running Chevy 305.
  15. I have been driving my 1947 Desoto for 20 years. We drive it back to San Francisco from Sandpoint Idaho. The only thing that went wrong was the speedometer cable end failed. I would do the following as a minimum: 1. Remove the master cylinder and all the wheel cylinders and rebuild them. Have them sleeved with stainless. Also personally inspect all the rubber cups and seals before they are reassembled. I have a new one, not NOS new production from NAPA, fail. The seal cup when made hade some crap in the mold and the lip of the seal was not correct. I lost the brakes on a Sunday morning on a hill here in SF. The only time in 45 years of driving old single master cylinder cars exclusively that I have had a hydraulic system failure on the road. 2. Have the drums checked to make sure that they are not turned out beyond oversize. If they are, contact me directly to discuss :-) 3. Replace every thing that is rubber, including the brake hoses. On the brake hoses, I also had a new NAPA hose develop a bubble in less than six months. Since then I get Russell Racing DOT compliant stainless braded lines. You do have to get a set of inverted flare to AN adaptors. 4. Check all ground points and add a some extra. Firewall to engine block. Engine block to frame. Body to frame near trunk. As a plus, I would do the following: 6. Remove and have the gas tank cleaned. 7. Have the car put on a lift. Remove the pitman arm and have someone who knows that they are doing check the tie rods and king pins to see if they have too much play. The control arms, if unloaded by the spring will move a lot, this is NOT wear it is how they are designed. 9. Check the rear spring shackles and silent block for wear. 10. Follow the service manual instructions and adjust the steering box while the pitman are above is off. Then finally, drive the car across the USA and visit P15-D24 members for lunch. James PS. I do not totally agree with Tod on the brake thing and here is why. Depending on how you use the car, traditionally when going down a hill you put it in low gear and go down slow so as to not heat up the drum brakes. With todays people not willing to wait, and the danger of them trying to pass you on a mountain over a double yellow line, when there is no place to pull over, I think the benefit of being able to go down hill at near posted speed and ride the disc's is better for safety. Also, we tend to drive these cars at modern freeway speeds. If you have to stop at 70 MPH in a hurry a front disc set up will provide much more directional stability. Now if it is a weekend or special event only car then no, keep the drums, but if you are planning on traveling with it, I would change the front to discs. I did that on the 47' as it has a GVW of 6000 pounds if loaded up all the way. I also did a 4 wheel disc on the restored 1949 Convertible. I also used an old midland ross remote power brake booster, although it is still a stock master cylinder. The thing stops too good like my early 1960's Chrysler 300's did. Six volt is fine if not making a lot of alterations requiring a computer for ignition, engine, or other.
  16. I purchased a P15 off of another forum member, mostly because it needed just some TLC to make it driveable and it more or less was similar to the Pilothouse pickup I am putting together in terms of drivetrain. What follows is not an exact recipe, but its what I have been driving (I did 300 miles round trip last Friday, biggest trip to date, but it took me most of the winter to get everything happy) A good compression engine - in this case its a 251 Desoto rebuilt in modern times Dual carbs and dual exhaust - not needed - but it adds some ponies for interstate driving - this car has modified factory manifolds to accomplish this (Full disclaimer - it also has dual points, camshaft, etc.... ) An overdrive transmission - good for interstate speeds - I can easily run 80mph down the interstate at roughly 2500rpms - T5 is in the P15, and also what I plan on for the Pilothouse A "modern" rear axle - cheap way of getting better gearing - its often cheaper to get a "modern" rear axle than to get the correct gears for your OEM axle - in the P15 its out of a Dodge Charger, my Pilothouse will have an 8.8 Ford with the added benefit of it having disc brakes out back. Radial tires - put a good set of radials on it. Disc brakes up front - I like the reduced stopping distance and readily available over the counter parts if needed on the road. Dual chamber master cylinder - having separate front and rear circuits add a bit of protection if you have an issue out on the road. The P15 also has an aluminum radiator - much more efficient than the old stock unit New wiring - a generic harness kit is cheap if you aren't looking for factory exact. Turn signals - I have LED turns front and rear - I will probably also wire in some daytime running lights as people just don't seem to see or pay attention to anything anymore and extra lighting can't hurt. 12V - using a common 1 wire GM alternator makes finding one on the shelf of a parts house while on the road an almost guarantee. Again - this isn't a recipe, just an outline of what I have been driving. I have nearly 800 miles on it total so far this year and will probably put 4 thousand or so miles on it before winter. I have a college class reunion coming up this summer in upstate New York that I am thinking of driving up to in the P15 - that will be an easy 1200 mile round trip before its said and done if my schedule works out. Good luck - there is lots to look at and consider.
  17. Found some power on the dyno today. Ended up with 362hp & 527tq at the wheels. It was still making hp at 5500 but bounced off the limiter. I drive mostly 1500-4500 on the street anyway. It’s not crazy horsepower but the torque is pretty flat and over 500 ft lbs almost off idle. For a street build I’m totally happy. The two curves are before and after tuning
  18. "nothing has been done" "ran about 30 years ago" "needs to be sleeved" ...the very first thing that you need to do is sonic check the cylinder walls for thickness. ...the very first. The internet is full of keyboard experts who regurgitate everything they hear, whether fact or fiction, and the amount of allowable overbore is a favorite subject. Having played with these old things for the better part of four decades I can state that I have found no constant, every block varies and until you know how much wall you have you do not 'know' what you will be able to do with it.
  19. Much will depend on your intended use of the car. If you really plan to drive it 'everywhere' then some consideration must be made to being able to maintain a safe drive at, presumably, freeway speeds. This could be as simple as changing to radial tires (with newer wheels) or changing the rear gears to a more engine friendly number. Yeah, I certainly consider disc brakes; keeping up to speed is only half of the equation.... There can be a long list of other 'creature comfort' items based soley on your needs/wants.
  20. ...interesting ......certainly easy enough box to obtain these days.
  21. ...I hope that my post didn't come across as bragging, these days its just hard to imagine such a small piece of dirt. Being in the city certainly has some advantages when employed or with a family and I faintly remember life in a sub-division.
  22. As for the triangular cuts made into the combustion chamber look up an engineer named Samander Singh. His theory of groved combustion Chambers was and likely still is a common modification in single cylinder 4 stroke flatheads use in mic rod and go cart racing. Can't tell from the installed pic but I am thinking this is a rwo piece construction necessitating another gasket for the cooling passage npassage piece to connect to the combustion piece.
  23. The bell housings are the same length but the one I took out needs a clutch plate and throw out bearing that's why I want to use the new one just dont know the mechanics of the new clutch set up and I'm trying not to take it apart to figure it out.
  24. Fatman sells or used to sell Chevy Cavalier rack kits for your car. There are better options with certain steering boxes but I don't have the links handy. Also, there is a recent thread on the car main page talking about some of these options. None of the potential doner vehicles you mention are rack&pinion, in fact they are front steer cars so the boxes would not work in your application.
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