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  2. Ok getting to relays again. I went thru a box of spare parts. Located 3 relays. Also removed a couple that were in my ‘38 car. They were not wired up properly to work. I have 3 different types here. Assume all are grounded thru relay frame, thru car frame. Two top right are Relco Remy. Stamped 775 6V. With both “H and S” stamped on the both outer two terminals. Centre terminal not labeled. Bottom right also Delco Remy with integrated fuse. No terminal markings at all. Safe to say these two types are both suitable for head/fog lights? On for long periods? Far left two no brand name. Made in USA. “H B S” terminal marking. Horn, switch, battery. Better suited for intermittent use such as a horn? I’ll get to testing these now. Ensure they all work.
  3. I’ve got the Quickjack 5000 setup. Love it, incredibly handy for the average garage mechanic. https://www.quickjack.com/car-lift-systems/bl-5000slx-portable-car-lift.html
  4. Today
  5. I like it! Keep us up-dated with your progress.
  6. Cruise control bugs me, too. I hate going "XX", +/- 0.001 MPH. It is an unnatural feeling. Plus, I don't care what "they" say, it uses more fuel. I like using the throttle to lose 3-4 MPH going up a slight grade and gaining 3-4 MPH going down the other side.
  7. I have found that I do a majority of my body welding and finishing while on my 4 post lift. Though I do have a jacking tray that slide...it is still not the most easy to make 4 wheel lifts while on the ramps. While I still do 4 wheel brake jobs and tire rotations and what not...it is with added work. I just recently purchased a used Bendpak 4 post 12K rated commercial alignment lift with walk through front. Twin rolling jacks and alignement turntables came with it. I have it rebuilt now...but cannot get my concrete man out to pour some my slab. The intent is to roll my smaller 4 post out under an awning and keep as much welding and dust from inside the shop and set the big boy in my bay where the present lift now sits. A proper made scissors will best a drive on 4 post for the most part as the wheels are free when in the air giving one an instant access to their removal. I was entertaining a scissors lift when I found the one I bought. I am comfortable on a chair with wheels doing body work.
  8. I too have warmed up to a drive-on scissor type lift. They often get up high enough up to sit on a shop stool while under the car. Additionally brake and wheel work can end up at a nice waist height for working. Their downfall is tranny, drive line access is sometimes limited. Depending on design. There always seems to be compromise. For me the ultimate solution would be a 2 post lift. No room though. I digress.
  9. ZTR mowers are ok but I'm not a fan...JD, Hustler, Scag, Dixon, et al run upwards of 10dB louder than a conventional mower as conventionals have their mufflers further away from the operator's seat while ZTRs have a muffler within arm's reach behind your head...conventional mowers have a smoother ride as almost all of their weight is between the axles; ZTRs teeter over the rear wheels as those tiny front wheels bounce away...conventional mowers can hold a straight line traversing a slope, whereas ZTRs have to be feathered to try to hold a line on a slope, basically it's a controlled slide...ZTRs can make a tight circle, but the tires chew up the ground in the process as they twist the turf+dirt while pivoting, if ya can keep the tires from spinning... I bought a '92 JD 425 back in 2001 that had caught fire due to neglected maintenance, was gonna fix it up to flip it, but after giving it a shakedown workout, I decided to keep it...water-cooled Kawasaki 20hp, all-wheel steering, hydrostatic transmission + power steering, 54inch deck with hydraulic lift, floats over lumpy ground, pulls steep hills, effortless steering, turned a 6 hour job with the worn '86 Cub Cadet into a 3 hr job...I use that machine to tractor stuff around, drag off brush, etc...if ya have more than 2 acres, ya gotta get into heavy duty estate machines with retail support, not the cheapos from HomeDepot that will leave ya disappointed especially when it's time for maintenance...I am now mowing not only my place but 4 retired neighbors' acreage as they tried the cheap stuff for years but found it was cheaper just to pay me to knock it out in half the time with my old green machine
  10. I have to agree with Keith's take on this...while nice, they are limited in their use. Also not mentioned is storage space and their very weight just moving them about. You may be better served looking at a scissor whole car lift. They are affordable and for the most part capable units. I would however probably look to adding outriggers for increased stability but maybe that is just me overthinking things....you can also leave the scissors lift in place and just park over it so no reals storage space lost.
  11. Yesterday
  12. I have not used those particular ramps. I have however given these type of ramps some considerable thought. I think to myself: This hydraulic set only allows you to lie down under the car. Ok for oil changes. Ok for some other work under the car. Like oil pan reseal. Bottom end engine work. Tie rods. However you can’t do wheel & brake work. Tires must stay on the car to use these. If you had four of these could get all corners of the car up. However you can’t sit up on a stool to work under the car. These take up considerable storage space compared to a bottle jack and two safety stands. Using safety stands under the frame rails gives you access to everything. What is the benefit of these hydraulic ramps versus the old drive-up simple $50 set of ramps? Or folks who cut and stack 2x12 lumber to build their own drive up ramps? For a person who may struggle to get jacks and stands under a car these may be better. That’s about all can think of. Not very useful for me in my experience. I prefer a floor jack on wheels and safety stands. Feel free to convince me otherwise.
  13. Awesome. Thanks for taking the time to post and share this. Great to see mopar lovers around the world.
  14. Now back to our regular scheduled programming.
  15. That's a great looking mat! Definitely a smart move to buy that many when you had the opportunity.
  16. In the late 80's I bought five (5) DT 1948-53 NORS floor mats for $29.95 each from JC Whitney. Great quality a design and fit. A great $ deal and still have two left for my trucks when I get old. Another friend bought at least 5 more himself to resale back then. Then JC had no more a month later.....I would have bought some more too as I had been always looking for mats for my trucks for a long time.
  17. Rock Auto can have you a set of four for about $35 in 3-4 days....... https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/plymouth,1948,p15+deluxe,3.6l+218cid+l6,1486874,steering,tie+rod+end,7428
  18. Napa lists a ES60R & ES60L. Just the 2 part numbers. Priced from 21.99 to 116.99 depending on manufacturer.
  19. Anyone have any experience with these?? Look like the might be good for those with limited overhead clearence. https://www.titanramps.com/accessories/hydraulic-lifts/hydraulic-car-lift-ramps-3000-lb-capacity-311431.html?lang=default&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&adpos=1o2&scid=scplp311431&sc_intid=311431&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIid-Et7Sk5QIVy8DICh0WJgd-EAQYAiABEgL0wfD_BwE
  20. My guess is he was looking for something else that may have been worth the stop. I’ve had my fair share of warnings and I’m very thankful for that. I have nothing but respect for the law enforcement.
  21. greg g

    Tie Rod ends

    So now all I gotta do is wait for the two O RIELYS they're building to open. I'll give Napa a go. Although the last time I went I stood at the counter for 45 seconds while the employee excersized his thumbs on his cell phone, he didn't even look up as l went out the door. My parts book says I need 2 each 302's and one each of 303 and 305. That seems to match the numbers Yukon put up. Hopefully there is a crossover in the Napa book.
  22. 5 miles down the road I may have been doing 4 mph under ...I just hate using the cruise control, I figure I have more control for defensive driving without it, and I vary a bit up and down. I figure 3-4 mph is a safe space .... boy was I wrong
  23. Redline MTL/MTG are awesome but as you say, the price can be a bummer for some. Pennzoil Synchromesh is a great option at only $10 a QT if price is an issue.
  24. its the grapevines that is the cats meow to smoke.....
  25. Exact same results when I changed mine out from the NAPA GL1 to the MT 90. Since you will probably never have to change it again, price is worth it....
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