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  3. I think he meant “peak HP RPM” I agree with Greg. I’ve made many trips on the highway at sustained speeds that push my tach up around 3000-3500 without any issues. But there again, My engine is of ‘known condition’ as I rebuilt it myself over 10 years ago. Still running strong, including a 300 mile run today.
  4. Yup, what Jeff said... I just made a 300 mile trek to Minnesota for the Back to the 50’s car show. I had many opportunities, going through multiple small towns, to sit at red lights with my foot on the brake, and not on the clutch. Light goes green, mash the gas and go. It’s especially nice in stop and go traffic.
  5. Like he said. I have to do this with my 100,000+ mile '53 Plymouth. It's like it going into third as well. I've run this car like this for 30,000 miles and the tranny has never got worse. Syncro gears wear but a little TLC shifting really helps.
  6. Good point. It's also possible that the wrong oil is in it. In colder temps, heavy oil can cause that. Conversely, lighter than normal viscosity can effect the way the sychros work. Manual trans have been recommended to use everything from 140 to ATF, depending on design, usage and temp. My planned A833 uses ATF!
  7. I'm not familiar with the red term above? What is its' meaning? And value for our flatties.
  8. Awesome brother! Thank you for the shout out. Wish I was there guys. 48D
  9. That's a good datapoint, thanks! With my 3.91, 80% of 3600 gets 2880 which is just a tic over 62 mph. Probably means I shouldn't get stressed if the ol' girl creeps up to 60 every once in awhile. The engine sure doesn't seem stressed, 55 oil pressure @ 170*F.
  10. I'd like to see a picture of that rare New Yorker 3-Window!
  11. You also want to watch for wheel flex. The radial tires seem to put more stress on the stock wheels. My 47 Plymouth had stock wheels with radial tires when I bought it years ago. Sometimes when making a turn the front wheels would flex enough to pop off a hubcap and it would go rolling past me. 😩
  12. I 'm guessing you are in England from terminology. Big end refers to connecting rod, shells refers to rod bearing inserts in U.S. English, or what passes for English here. If so, .010, .020, .030 are common. .040 is available but not as common. In the past ( way past), I've even seen .080, but not for years. Try searching eBay. NOS parts appear from time to time. What size are you needing??
  13. I ran P205/75R14 on my '56 & '57 T-Birds for twenty-five years on the stock wheels with no issues. I run 15" radials on my '39 P8. Inflation in the one issue you have to watch, radials are high pressure tires. 32-34 lbs minimum.
  14. I run coker 16x6 on my original 47 Dodge rims.
  15. Come to Alaska. Women up here do everything that a man does. When I first moved here I hired a company to connect a cabin I built to my septic tank 12 feet down. Who showed up? A 17 year old girl that drove the dump truck, excavator and got down and connected the pipes in the sewer. Did a damn fine job as well.
  16. The heat riser in an inline engine is probably one of the most misunderstood items in an engine. In colder climates like Sweden, and those parts of other countries that have mild to cold temps, the carb hanging on the side of the engine requires that the fuel be pre-heated for proper vaporization. Correctly fixing a faulty hear riser is not an easy matter, in all probability you will have to find a exhaust manifold that has a working heat riser. Blocking the heat riser into the closed position is not a good solution, the plate has to open under accelleration. Blocking plate into the open position would be better, however the engine will run rich in cool/cold weather. People that put headers and/or split manifolds on inline engines experience a lot of problems with the engine running rich because they eliminate the heat riser. The general solution to this problem is to put a hot water fixture on the base of the intake manifold. I have encountered a lot of problems in my life with hear riser issues, I was raised in East Idaho where the temps get down to -30 in the winter. As a teenager i constantly messed with cars trying to make them run better, which usually resulted in huge problems in the winter. When I moved to southern Nevada in 1954 subzero temps were not a problem, 100 + degrees were. I moved to southern California in 1956 which changed the whole climate issue. Quite cool on the coast, 100 + degrees ten miles inland.
  17. I saw it, noticed that your blacksmith is a woman. Just no big deal to me. One time when I was in High School I came home from school to find my mom with grease almost up to her elbows, with two old wringer washer transmissions in parts strung across the floor. She used parts from an old one we had in a shed out back to fix the one she used. (And it worked, too.) And my mom always wore dresses, etc - she was the typical Mennonite Momma.
  18. ??? Have you been overtaken by spellcheck??? I’m not sure I have ever heard that terminology. I’m not being a wise guy. Just wanna help if I could.
  19. Currently have 45000 miles and 15 years on my set of AC 45, pulled them last year a couple were out of gap but they all looked just fine thank you. My compression readings are 130 to 135.
  20. I have a 46 with 4:11 rear. Ran it for years with 225 75 tires. They calculated to 3280 rpm at 62 mph (65 indicated). When I swapped in a freshly rebuilt engine, my machinist told me a cruising rpm of 80 to 85 percent of peak hours rpm was sustainable for extended cruising speed. Must be so, I have made dozens of trips of over 200 miles are those speeds over the past 14 years with no issues. This does assume an engine in known good internal condition and operation within proper temp and oil pressure perameters.
  21. 'Wholegrain mechanical goodness'. I gotta remember that.☺️
  22. Running 225/75-15 on the rear, speedo off by 3mpg, reads faster than gps indicates. Make sure your spring rubber bushings are in good condition, I had some fender rub when negotiation sharp turns before I put new rubber bushings in the rear spring eyes.
  23. A lot more complicated than one would think. The compressors are 3 phase AC voltage provided by an on-board inverter. I don't know what the input DC voltage is, but I'm sure it is more than 6/12v.
  24. Take one set of wires off of the fuel gauge. Read across both posts with an ohm meter. You're looking for something in the 25-45 ohm range. If so, the gauge is good.
  25. Update: I installed a 73-10 ohm sending unit and the gauge goes from empty to just over half tank (when full). At this point I'm not sure if the gas gauge itself is bad. I can't recall now if the gauge ever went to completely full. With the 0-90 ohm sending unit a full tank would put the gauge at empty, and near half I was almost out of gas. Not sure if its worth spending $25 to verify with a cheap gauge or not. I suppose I could test resistance from a pin on the gauge to ground?
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