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  1. Today
  2. Ya I have new tires on mine already but you can't put weights on them because of the split rim. If I get over a certain speed like 40 to 50 miles per hr the thing shakes pretty bad. I just wanted to drive it this year and hopefully get either a frame or if a conversation kit was available maybe next year or over the winter.
  3. Well, when we're talking about Power Wagons, it's a different story. The stock axle gearing (5.83:1) and tires (9.00 x 16.00) won't let you get more than about 55 - 58 mph, and that's only if you're comfortable pegging the engine against its governor at 3200 rpm. Most guys aren't comfortable doing that, so they cruise along at about 45 mph. The Power Wagons could be ordered with 4.89 axle gearing, and this gearing has been reproduced periodically over the years and is a popular upgrade for these trucks. This won't allow as much of an increase as the ratio change would indicate - maybe 60 or a little above on flat roads - because the stock 230 doesn't have the torque to overcome the drag/resistance/weight of the truck especially on an incline, but it allows the engine to rev quite a bit lower at any speed. The Power Wagon has a lot of aerodynamic drag, and rolling resistance with those large tires, and it is a heavy vehicle, weighing in at about 5300 - 5500 lbs empty weight. My Power Wagon has tires that are a couple of inches larger than stock, and I have the 4.89 gears, so even with a slightly modified 230, it didn't have excess power. I didn't mind it too much, but it could have used more. Relatively small hills were enough to slow it down. If I had gone through with the dual carb and headers, maybe it would have had a little more umph for the road. It's getting late here, so I'll try to remember to get back on in the next day or two and talk about the machine shop experience I had.
  4. In 1947 for Chrysler there were two shades of dark Maroon...that's the color I seem to see.... Up through march of 1947.... Royal Maroon code #18 Also used was....................... Regal Maroon Code # 16 Both are a dark shade of maroon. Odd that the firewall is black.
  5. Where can I get the lube its low..and what brand or kind or weight
  6. Under the factory configuration, the center light in the rear is brake light only, and depending on the condition of your brake switch sometimes you have to press pretty hard before it comes on. Many folks reconfigure the rear lights so all three light up when you step on the brake. To get this to work with the headlights on, you'll need to replace the sockets with ones that allow for dual filament bulbs.
  7. Just run a tube and flap, can even use a radial with the correct setup. Stockton Wheels make modern replacements, but they are pretty pricey. lot more than tubes and flaps.
  8. Under your username (upper right hand corner) go to "My Attachments". Find the image you want to delete, then click on the link to the thread (on the right). The thread will open, click on "Edit" at the end of post, and you can delete the image.
  9. Does anybody know if there is a conversation kit out there. To go from the 50's hubs with the big 6 bolt with the split rims to a normal modern hub. I don't have any idea if there is a tubeless tire rim you can get for a 56 Fargo.
  10. I dug out both of my different spare tire mounting bars for a photo. One of them is more noticeably bent upwards on one end than the other. I have the flatter version on both my 52 and 53 trucks here in Oz..
  11. Here's what sealed power says. I called them just to confirm what was offered here on the forum. Everyone was correct. The new style piston does not have a slot in it and the full skirt does not have a front or rear orientation. So I am good to go as planned. Thanks for your comments.
  12. Weep hole is correct . When the pump goes bad it will weep there . Or elsewhere .
  13. It was an extremely sharp looking car. Does anyone know what the paint code is for that color? When my wife seen it she said she wants to do our p15 in that color.
  14. Dual heaters and a brake booster too!
  15. The plaque that they had there showed that 750 were made between 1946 and 1948. This one was bought as a family car and was still in the same family.
  16. Manage attachments is not available under edit profile. I have tried to use several guide lines to delete attachments and NONE work.
  17. I agree. Back when these cars were new or sitting on used car lots,they were driving 55-60 MPH on a daily basis,and nobody thought anything about it because they were BUILT to run at 50's highway speeds. And these were dead stock 218's and 230 with the one original single barrel carb on them,not hotted up ones.
  18. I appreciate all the gasket ideas with which to help me start my rebuild! I'll frame oil pump gasket #1 and hang it on my wall as an historical artifact. At the moment, my block, head, and manifolds are being thermally cleaned in an oven to burn off the oil, old paint, and rust after which the parts will be shot-blasted. The parts should come out looking like new. The cylinder wall tapers were all .001 or less (.060 over-size though). And I had to have one valve seat replaced. The shop also found one bad valve. All the valve guides are good - no slop. The crank has been polished and I'll be picking up all the parts next week. Here's a link that shows the process they are using on my engine parts. The shop I'm using is in Chicago, not in Costa Mesa, CA. Sorry, the video shows a Ford flathead being thermally cleaned, but it's the idea that counts...
  19. A weep hole.
  20. Ok... if all of those are completed and the box probably has a worn set of gears. Who can rebuild them?
  21. This is pretty standard behavior for an open differential. Basically, torque gets applied to whichever wheel is easiest to turn. When you go around a corner, you're always driving with the outside wheel (left wheel on a right turn, right wheel on a left turn)
  22. Received water pump from Bernbaum today for my P23 motor, what's with this hole in the neck for the pulley/fan? Looks like maybe for a grease zerk but it doesn't appear to be threaded, and the zerk from my old water pump is way too big for this anyway.
  23. Yesterday
  24. I'm wondering why the clutch that came with my 1951 B3B doesn't look like the clutch on page 163 of the shop manual. Here's what came with my truck: (I included two pictures of my clutch disc just to help with an ID. The disc is 11 inches wide. The center hub has 10 splines and looks like 1 1/4 inches in diameter.) The clutch shown in the shop manual (page 163) looks more like the one in the picture below (which I copied from the DCM Central web site. Can anyone explain the apparent discrepancies between my clutch and the ones pictured in the shop manual and at DCM? 1. My clutch cover is round. The one below from DCM (and also in the book) has a hexagonal shape. 2. My clutch cover has 4 release levers. The one below (and also in the shop manual) has only 3.
  25. Great go win some
  26. If its a open rear end (not sure grip or posi as some call it) then if both wheels are off the ground and not in gear or applied parking brake then one tire will rotate lets say clockwise, the other will turn counter clockwise. And yes if one tire is on the ground, the other can turn as well off the ground.
  27. Slots go on the non thrust side (distributor side)
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